Used this vid to show my great grandson what needs to be done to his 2011 Chevy. He's a senior in high school. Back in the "60's", my buddies (chevy guys, I had the only Ford, 1956, 312 police interceptor from the factory. We would pull an engine on Friday night after work, rebuild it and have it back in by Sunday morning... The good old days....
Helped me out bro I wasn’t gonna mess with my Buick cause it has rod knock but today I learned that it only takes about six or seven f***s and a little work and I can get this done 😂..preciate ya bro
I got a 2010 Mazda 6 mark-cd diesel that caught the injector Black Death, clogged the oil pickup, and cut off oil to the bearing… cleaned and fixed everything else… now your video here just gave me the courage to attempt the bearing replacements with engine in place. 🦁🔥
I used to change rod bearings out all the time as the shop owner I would listen to the engine when I change the oil if it rattled I would talk to the customer about changing some rod bearings. And maybe an oil pump.
Replaced mine on a 2001 Jeep WJ: The bearing caps are cast into the block as part of the manufacturing process and then snapped off so that they only fit in one spot and in one orientation, it is therefore necessary to softly tap on each bearing cap with the wooden handle of a hammer to get it to seat first. Just torquing down the bearing caps without tamping them down first can lead to cracking of the bearing caps.
Had a 30k Mile AMC 304 v8 that had a carb float stick and filled the crank case full of gas and contaminated the oil . Then it sat for a decade. The shit ethanol in the gas I guess ate the bearings up. At least the first layer of plating on the factory bearings . Not all of it but enough I wanted to do something about it. Still had decent hot oil pressure at least for a amc v8. I noticed the bearings showing some copper when I went to replace the rear main seal. The crank journals mic'd out fine and looked great. Tag showed standard size bearings. I ended up running stock size bearings in both the crank and the rods.. I put them in ALL FROM UNDER THE CAR. It hasn't had a issue since. I run 15w40 Rotella and a zinc additive in it as well.
Two things I noticed. Oil behind the bearing. I don’t do it. I say if you do use the lightest oil you can find. Preferential I guess. Polishing the journal. Put the straw of a can of break clean in the oil gallery and lightly spray the sandpaper and gum junk out of there. Overall a nice video. Have fun and don’t be afraid to try something.
Also the bearings are top and bottom specific the bearing with a hole in it is the top block side bearing. It line's up with oil journal. Most bearings will only fit in one way. The correct way.
I didn’t have any Lucas lube so I just went to the cabinet and got some KY his/hers and just used a little of each on opposite sides, just to give the bearings that cooking sensation they deserve. 😊
very cool. i got this ranger with a rod knock i can buy for like $300. it looks like i just need to replace the bearings (i hope) the way you showed me how to do it doesn't look that hard, i like how i dont gotta put it on a lift or take the engine off
mines had the same noise I had to replace the timing oil tensioner because it was leaking oil really bad and my bro always ran it on low oil. Now the engine will crank and start but won’t stay on I had to replace the battery because it was bad. Maybe the bad battery fried my alternator? Or maybe I missed aligned the timing when replacing the oil timing tensioner? Ahh am stuck trying to figure out if I need a new engine or not?
i gotta tell ya, your video was very good. im working on a ford escape, and am replacing my rod bearings. been watching alot of videos on this subject and yours is best at lighting, sound and i love the language. thx
@@ceomaliyeckal1307 working on a 06 escape. Just ordered gauges so i can measure bearing clearance. Not enough information online nor on the escape forums. I may get the Haynes manual also. If you get any good information please pass it on.
Never lube the back side of main or rod bearings. Lube only the front side, assembly lube is preferred because its more like a grease and can handle start up for the first time better.
Here is another video, "Inside the Box" AMG factory, engine building, at the two minute fifty five, the Mercedes engine builder puts copious amounts of oil between rod and back of the bearing... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H82scwzyhh0.html
I had elongated one of the rods just like yours. There are two ways to handle it. 1) add a shim to the lower bearing or get an oversize bearing for the lower half until your plastigauge shows its in spec. 2) Grind down the rod cap to con rod mating edges until your plastigauge shows its back in spec. I did 1) and it's held up fine for 6 months now in a turbocharged engine. 2) Is probably the more correct way. Both procedures can be done with the engine in the car still.
@@terrellscaife2411 If you haven't ground your crank at a machine shop, then start with standard sized bearings. Then plastigauge to check its within specs.
Good job buddy nice end important video to show Mechanic's how to do with out engine out they don't like your video I no what they think thanks and i appreciate your show and Job to show por people to do by self with out mechanic Steeler shop.becose they like to make money easy with out you do 🤟🔥
Thanks for video, my car has oil pump in the way so can't access the rod, did you have same issue but already removed the oil pump? I'm not sure how to remove the oil pump
Looks like I have a project to do now after my Pontiac just had spun a bearing. Thanks for the DIY video I'll update and let ya know how mine turns out...
So how did everything turn out after you put the engagement back together? I've done this year ago after changing the crank but did change the connecting rods... they became baffled and out of round. That led to the engine falling shortly afterwards. It was on a 350 block.
We actually had to order a pair of 20 thousandths oversized bearings for the first connecting rod and the rest were standard sized bearings we slapped everything back together and she started up first crank
@@Nasperformance Really! Well that's nice. Ordered a set of oversized Baring was a smart move. That's awesome. Thanks for sharing with us your experience 👍.
@@MatthewBecker7 there would still have been a tiny amount. Not nearly as much as in the video. Just enough to fit a sheet of paper or two in between. Thats all the play you need.
So i have a 93 5.0 i took the rod bearings and mixed up the the tops marked some but by the time i realized it was too late is there anyway to fix this
I thought I would be doing the same but in the process of doing it now and it’s actually one of the easiest jobs! I bought new ones cause mine were shot but very helpful video!
Hello I have a question. The area you are working on it is where the oil pan goes right? I I basically need t take the oil pan out the reach the area you are working on then I am gonna be able to replace rod bearings?
You have to use super glue on the back side of the new bearing, especially if the bearing shell has been spinning a lot inside the rod cap. It's actually a trick from stock car racing. The engines go back together for a lot more high revs.
Bro My FA20 Small block started knocking on me this past weekend. I hope it isn’t anything more serious than I quick bearing replacement. Honestly I’m nervous as fuck to open her up like that but watching you do this made it look dumb easy. How did it run after you replaced the bearings?
Remove the Plugs and the Crank turns super easy/ Nice video, I once was in the Alaskan wilderness lost a bearing and cut up my leather pants belt and used leather as the bearing. Literally lasted a year.... js
Haha I mean I wouldn’t do this to any car but shit they do stuff like this all the time in Bangladesh and it works for an unknown amount of time. Do it still run?
I have a Chevy 1996 5.7L 350 Sb is knocking noise. I took the oil pan out and found metal residual. I was told I need a new engine. The engine turn on and drives. Any advice please. Thanks
What do you suggest we should do when It comes to torquing down the rods. Should we reuse, swap to new OEM rods or get arp? I've read that we will need to resize rods with arp. Are we simply working with what we have and then just send it?
Dispite what a lot of people say here, you can reuse rod bolts as long as the bolts haven't been torqued over the TTY i.e. "Torque to yield value" and have not been permanently deformed. Suggestion when torquing the rod bolts creep up on the maximum torque numbers in stages slowly being sure to torque each bolt evenly as you go up in torque to the max torque. Best to apply assembly lube to the journals and bearing surfaces that face each other, it is thicker then oil and gives more protection since the oil pump won't supply oil to the bearings until the pump primes itself and starts pumping oil again.
Did this job workout for u? just wondering , I'm about to attempt thrust washers on my pt cruiser . maybe the whole set. is it still running? any knocking ?
Hey great video by da way so I wanted to know what motor was that you were working on I infact have a wat seems to be rod knock im my 03 jeep 4.7l limited I'm going to be doing this for my motor and your vid is great 👍 for step my step ill also be doing the cams timing chain and the lifters and rocker arms on it I had a oil leak when I first bought and I finally got it fixed but I guess da damage was already done Is the car u fixed still running no issues
This comment probably is not going to help now but anytime you have a rod knocking in your car and it's bad enough that you're hearing it you should always have that Rod recondition
So it depends, knock is caused by 1 of two things, uneven fuel combustion which a tune up can fix, or a spun rod bearing, a spun bearing by no means means you need a new engine you just need a new rod bearing, you can change rod bearings yourself it just takes a lot of work
