I agree. Music have it's places, you can add some in some places for comical or dramatic effect. But generally these kinds of videos are far more enjoyable without music. Great videos otherwise. I enjoy them.
as a teenager I spun a rod bearing, over revved engine, was too poor to buy new motor, or used motor. so I pulled oil pan, & bought 1 rod bearing, back then you could get 1 bearing, 35+ years ago, I polished crank with wet/dry 600 grit paper, lubricated with kerosene, & used a shoestring wrapped around paper on rod journal. it worked. now when I put new rod bearing in, rod was loose on crankshaft, so I removed & took the cap & sanded cap on 400 grit paper, glued to a piece of glass, I know I only did 1 side, but I managed to tighten clearances, & I drove car for over 25k miles without issues, I was always afraid to mash throttle too hard, & it lasted until I was able to get another car & was a little more financially stable. the car was a 1964 Impala, & that engine is still in it, & it has been siting close to 30 years in my back yard.
I had a cam shaft bearing spin. Put new bearings in but they wouldn't hold. Ended up drilling a hole and pinning the bearings with rivets and smoothing them down. It worked and was still working 25k miles later when I sold it. Cam shaft bearings don't have to take anything like the punishment delivered to crank shaft bearings.
@@AccountSpace lol, not at moment, I also have another 64 that was bought after it, & a 1961, which I am working on, that my dad bought new, & I plan to drive soon, I also have a 1972 Nova for everyday car, & fixing a 1966C10 truck & have a 1961 Dodge dump truck I need to get on the road to haul gravel. I also drive a Roush truck as a daily driver, & my back & forth to work beater is just a Ford Festiva. lol. so I have enough cars on the road for the moment, plus 2 custom Harleys. I do have a few other cars, & not planning to fix at present, like 2 other Novas from my youth, a 68 Ford Thunderbird, a 1967 big block Dodge Polara my grandpa bought new. as well as a few others, like MGBs, Datsun 510s, & may old VW bugs & busses
@@randymack1782 What an inventory! Sounds like you have great stuff. Too many for a lifetime of restorations. Pick a half dozen of your favorites and pass the rest onto people that will give them the TLC they deserved. This will help fund the work on the ones you keep. Don't be the guy who dies with a lot full of rusted out relics who always thought some day . . . Should have, could have, would have. Nothing is worse than being a party to letting them rest away in the yard. Don't make your kids have to clean up that mess, have a few restored drivers to pass on to them.
The "I'm mad because I didn't get enough oil" knock is a sign of a short-term life, I'd be highly surprised if it made it another 91k. Who knows where the next flake of bearing material will rear it's unwanted appearance. ✌✌
Oil did not look that bad. I've seen one that had black and clumpy oil in it, had to change twice in rapid succession because first change loosened all the gunk and blocked the oil filter (wonder where oil pressure went).
I am so glad that I found Rainman Ray's Repairs. I am a backyard mechanic that learned from watching my dad and his friend since I was a kid. Rebuilt my first engine back in 1980 when I was 16. Having this knowledge helps understand what he is doing. But, I can honestly say that I have learned QUITE a bit since watching these videos. I really like how he takes you through everything step by step. NO ASSUMING that those of us watching knows what he is doing or about to do. These are easily, in my opinion the best videos on auto repair that I have seen throughout the years. Keep up the GREAT work and keep those videos coming. Rainman Ray, AWESOME JOB !!!
you guys did a great job saving that old ford,I am a 40 year veteran in the field, hard to find guys like you willing to take a chance on a risky job, thanks for sharing!!!
I have done this kind of work several times many years ago but I'd only do it for my own vehicles because of the risk involved doing it for a customer who is going to pay dearly for this kind of rescue work and it's very hard to guarantee longevity of any sort if you're being realistic. Great job though!
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Perfect! The music was just a huge annoyance, anyway. Being half deaf, I couldn't understand what you were saying over top of it because it sad so loud, AND it was obnoxiously repetitive.
A story from my childhood... I had a Maverick with a 250. I acquired a 302 that I wanted to swap in, but my Dad was against that until I had a bit more experience under my belt. I determined that I would run that 250 hard as I could, with very little oil in it, to speed up the upgrade. It took several months before it developed a slight knock. Not wanting to reveal my plan, I mentioned that I needed to borrow Mom's car that night for the school dance as my car was sounding a little funny, and I didn't want to risk damaging it or getting stranded with my date. Dad turned around and reached into the junk drawer (everyone's kitchen has one, right?) and pulled out a box of bearings and some plastigage. I ended up changing out the bearings, laying in our gravel driveway (we had 1 asphalt and 1 gravel drive) just in time to break them in on the drive to pick up my date for the dance. I went through several other cars, building and flipping (a self funding hobby for me back in the day), but kept the Maverick, with the 250 in it, for several years and many thousands of miles, until some kid that reminded me of me talked me out of it...
I remember the first car I owned it was a 1975 Mercury Grand Marquis. My dad and I bought it from the junkyard as a project car for my 16th birthday. The engine has blown. It originally has a 400 Ford engine, but we put the 351 Windsor in it. We had to special order the pressure hose for the power steering pump, modify the engine mounts by cutting through the Front crossmember, and change the bell housing (They are slightly different, could mount up, but my dad wanted me to have the experience.) but we got it done. Shortly after, I was working for the summer detassling corn. My brother was on the same crew. I went out to play a little bit, and was too confident in my abilities. I ran into the ditch and needed a pull out of it. I got a hole in the gas tank. By that time, my dad has died from a heart attack. My mom said to put some JB Weld on it and take her from Kahoka, MO to Muscatine, IA. I did. She called the police on me in Muscatine. I got arrested and lost my car.
Ive been a mechanic for 20 years and these are my favorite kind of jobs. Doing that deep engine work and getting positive results at the end. But nothing sucks worse after doing a job like this and then finding out the repair didn't work and the engine is garbage. Had plenty of those experiences too. Glad this one worked out.
I had a brother in law who had a busy garage,he stayed away from rebuild work he might replace a head gasket or even send them out,he was an experienced guy that worked for a ford dealer for many years.Then he went into his own business, He stuck to bread and butter work and made good money,too much of a headache replacing,overhauling engines.Brakes water pumps fuel pumps diag jobs thats what he did!Have to make money,not tie up the shop!He could do it but stayed away,got to put food on the table!Unfortunatly he passed away a while ago,I think he had the right idea for his shop.
You cannot possibly have any idea how much these videos have taught me. From having no idea what a crank bearing even looked like and wondering if I'd have to learn to pour babbitt to believing I might even be able to do a job like that myself even lying on my back under the car. You might call the videos long but they are worth every second. Thanks loads!
That should not teach you anything that is absolutely the wrong way to do something it's a Band-Aid at best at bearing spun on the crank and the rod and it will fail again without doubt so unless you just want to put a Band-Aid on something and get by for a bit longer do not do that
@@raymondholley1009 yeah obviously it's a bandaid if the bearing hadn't spun however this isn't a bad method. I've seen people get low oil pressure and just repair the rod bearing and it works out just fine, but yeah this is a repair to get you by until you can get another vehicle or engine.
@@raymondholley1009 I spun a bearing in my 1973 GTO on my way to work. It was a very ugly knock. After work, I stopped at a NAPA auto parts and picked up a set of standard size rod bearings. The next day I was under that old goat pulling the oil pan. I performed a plastigauage test to insure the new bearings would allow sufficient oil clearance. Then torqued in sequential specs as per the maual. That GTO flippin ran strong for years after that with no problems. How did I spin a rod bearing in the first place? I checked my oil the day before and noticed a quart low on the dip stick. But the next morning in a hurry to get to work, I hauled ass as i took the off ramp down shifting at high RPM’s and thats when the knocking began. Always maintain oil capacity.
I would have just changed out the whole engine with a good used engine from a junk yard. As I have done in the past. Just get an engine with half the mileage out of a wrecked car.
All well and good as long as you have the resources to pull an engine. Most people don't, and this is a job you can do with basic tools & some jack stands
@@klifestyle4466 It depends on how it was driven and truck engines are stronger. Most engines just wear out, nothing to do with maintenance unless the sump was run dry. Used motor oil actually lubricates better up to a point.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q I use castrol Edge 0w40 and I service my car every 3000 miles when they oil starts getting dark I'm on 110,000miles and my car has excellent oil pressure and it puts like a kitten my car is also 16yrs old I've seen cars and vans with half the mileage knackered due to poor maintenance.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q I had the exact model mercury sable except mine was an '01 (same engine/generation) and the timing chain broke at 235k miles. I didn't by any means treat it nicely, I bought it used at 125k and it was a $400 beater with a heater. I got another 110k out of it before the timing chain snapped. Chain snapped in 3 pieces at 85mph and it bent a valve. Toasted the engine, it fired out of time at high-ish rpm. I didn't even change the oil for the last 40k or so miles. Probably why the timing chain went on me. I maybe could've pushed it close to 300k if I actually had taken care of it but like I said I paid $400. An oil change was not worth the expense, even doing it myself. The car junked for $375 so I only lost $25 and the only maintenance I did to it was brakes and a fuel pump. Loved that car, she died too young. This car definitely could've went another 50-100k easily before any severe damage like this; it was not just wore out. These cars had some solid engines. The owner had mistreated this thing horribly.
it will i found out that slapping new set of bearing works just fine and when i do it i let the engine idle for an hour then drop the oil its a glitter show but the second oil change is normal
@@18888888888888888886 I never got the glitter show when I bearing slapped a Pontiac Grand Am that was in a similar state of wear. It's been 40k since, partly driven by morons, and driven hard some of the time (after a very gentle break-in) and the engine still sounds good as new. My neighbor is still driving it.
If only I had a hoist. I wouldn't have to pull the motor for what is a basically easy job. Next move I'll definitely put one in. Nice couple of vids. Subbed... =D
Great job! The first time I did that exact same job was on a Humber Super Snipe back in the late 70s. It's generally always the end rod bearing furthest away from the oil pump that fails completely, as it's the last one in line for oil when the pressure drops due to starvation, but obviously get a set and change them all as you did. No point in worrying too much about the crank main (or axial) bearings, as they generally don't suffer so badly when there's oil starvation, and in any case it's often not possible to remove the ones at either end of the crank without major dismantling. That engine should go on for many more miles. Well done!
He didn't sand the journals very well. That would concern me. On my car it was the #3 rod that spun (3rd from the pump). And I was able to get all but 1 upper main bearing out because it didn't have an oil hole in the crank for me to rotate it out.
NICE! So, 1-2 were bad along with starting to spin 6. I had my fingers crossed on both hands when you started bringing up the rpms. Good job Rainman! You can walk around with a bit of skip in your step after that one. Cheers!
In situations like this, all the bearings are bad. Same goes for high mileage motors. Now, in normal, well maintained motors, the crank journals will look new, and only the bearings will be worn down. Basically, what I am saying is not doing all of them is a bad call. They are easy to do.
@@goclunker Agree, plus on that motor, it is a dual over head cam, meaning there are four cams at the very top of the motor, and the very last thing to get oil, and the first to lose it if oil pressure drops. So if the bottom bearings look like those did, what do the cam journals look like, what do the main bearings look like?? Since clearances in the engine determine oil pressure, what was the oil pressure when the repair was finished?? Will the oil pressure be enough to last in this engine?? This was a patch job, that may work out or may just be putting of calling this engine dead until rebuild for a few months or a year. Without knowing the situation of the customer, I can't make any hard judgement, but to me this is a crap job to patch up a failed motor, and it should have been either pulled and rebuilt in house or have a rebuilt from supplier installed. Now maybe this was all the customer could afford, and then this would be a good repair for that customer, but in general practice, no.
@@bluethunder4542 it was probably a good 5 day job. Car drop off and inspection. Tear down and parts order. Then 2 videos at 45 min a piece with I assume are two days. It was probably a good 9-12 hours from the minute the first exhaust bolt came out to drop the pan and complete the job
@@BeforeBuildQC I don't think that's a warranty repair. Don't even think they have made a Mercury Sable in recent enough years to have a warranty. I could be wrong though?
I was a teenager when I heard about spun bearings. I asked what that meant and no one I knew could explain it, the closest answer was that it's really bad. Now, after all these years, it's crystal clear, thanks to this video.
Spinning a bearing means you are screwed. This customer must be a friend or family of someone at the shop. I wouldn't even consider this an option for a stranger; too much liability. And hopefully the customer understands that he is TOTALLY GAMBLING what i imagine is at least $600-$800 on this "repair". We did this in the 1980's, usually so the customer could immediately trade-in the car. Thus, we never knew how long before engine needed more internal work.
@@hightttech "Spinning a bearing means you are screwed." Indeed, lol. Looks like the decision to go ahead with this remedy was purely driven by financial reasons. I imagine for the customer, the choices were not too plentiful and this was the least financially painful way to have a running car in their possession. I'm not an advocate of kicking a problem down the road, however long or short that may be, but hopefully the customer will be in better financial standing to deal with this issue when it needs to be addressed again. Oh, and hope they learned it's far easier and cheaper to change/check the engine oil from now on.
Same frustration here, and finally understand the reason. The vast majority of people who work on cars are ‘math brains’… i.e. they are good at ciphering, but not so good at readin’ and rightin’. They don’t have the vocabulary to explain in words to a novice.
Spinning a bearing can just mean you need to dress the crank, then do what rays doing. It's based on what you actually find. If the bearing eats up the rod, then you have to pull the head to get that piston out.
@@kingofbrutaltheocracy9201 I just sold a '13 Corolla with 5K miles on CL, got my asking price of 10K, a few days later someone told me about Carvana so I went to their site, the offer?, $14.2K, I was shocked and pissed off at myself for not doing it before I put it on CL.
@@barryaiello3127 This was 2017, mine was a 2015 nissan note, 45k miles and in perfect condition. Clean under the hood, service records, not a scratch. I got bombarded with emails on craigslist, sold it same day, $12k. Carmax inspected it, offered me $5k. The couple who bought it have had no problems in the last 4 years. My guess is when you take it in they would low ball you hard.
@@kingofbrutaltheocracy9201 yup thats what they do in the uk they give you a valuation on reg and mileage via text then make an appointment to take it in. Thats when they pick up on the slightest flaws to drive the price right down.
Great vid! At 26:05 (pick up tube install) you hand tightened the nut but I didn’t see it ratcheted down. There was a edited part that could’ve been done but not seen. I do like your thoroughness.
Only just now saw this video... and I was about to write this observation when I noticed your post here; I noticed the same thing: the nut holding the oil pick-up tube bracket was only hand tightened... And further down, you will see it has not moved any little bit from it's hand tightened position, so it was not torqued or even snugged down unfortunately... But hey I wish I had a mechanic like you Ray here in my neighbourhood... you are brilliant!!!
I noticed the same thing and came to join in on the comments. While I'm only a shadetree mechanic and only do small stuff of my vehicles and me friends, I'm always paranoid (concerned) about missing something so I always go over and over fasteners while I still have access. I have the utmost respect for this man and enjoy his channel quite a bit.
Ok good, I was not the only one that noticed this. 😂 I was telling you to go back and tighten it many times watching that video, 😖 but I guess I was not loud enough... 🤣🤣🤣 Oh, And the O2 sensor as well. No worries. That car would still be fine. It was only a support leg. Not a loss of suction point. So should be good. Great job still..!!
I love your dilligence, you work as a surgeon on your jobs. I remember rebuilding engines under a shed or a pecan tree back in the 1970s on my Dodge Challenger R/T 383 and also on a Ford truck 300ci straight 6. I didn't have the luxury of a lift, only a chain hoist and rope slung over a tree limb or lying on my back on a piece of cardboard. I used STP to lube the crank bearings back then, but this brings back so many memories. Great job brother!
Have to say, after watching the whole first part and this one. I was even glad to hear it run without a knock. Great vid and great job on the engine. Thanks for another entertaining and informative video.
Maaaan, I could've died not knowing that this half general repair of the engine can be done from beneath the car. My eyes are opened! So happy I've found this channel! Great job Ray! And I just love those Too-Loo-Loo phone ring imitations.
You're the man. I've often wondered about this specific repair, replacing the rod bearings by taking off the oil pan. Every Negative Nancy on the internet says you should never do it, but it always seemed possible to me, and if you're other option is to pull the entire engine, why not try it? Good instructional video. Thank you.
My step dad told me stories of pulling spun bearings and replacing them with leather belt material. He said it didn’t last long and they would redo it. He would finish his story with “poor people have poor ways”
Yeah this was great..being young and inexperienced I had "friends" with that real "Can't Do" attitude..Glad I dropped those guys along time ago. This kind of pragmatic low cost ingenuity could've saved me a classic Dart that was lost to Pick n Pull.
I got my early training in mechanics and engines from a WWII veteran who was stationed in North Africa during the war and , being a mechanic, was called upon to improvise all sorts of repairs even using parts from destroyed German tanks and planes etc.. Whatever came his way, he fixed it. By the time I met him and worked with him, a running joke was that Roy, my mechanic mentor, learned everything he knew in "The Sahara School For Auto Mechanics". I learned from the best!
Loved the video. Very professional. But noticed on first pass through that the pick up tube brace was only finger tightened. Maybe tightened off camera. Great to see a true mechanic at work.
People who take their care to the dealership have higher expectations. If they have this done at the dealer, they would drive away thinking it's "fixed". But this is a patch, not a fix. Big difference.
It’s also about warranty. If say something else with the engine goes wrong we get “you worked on it last, you pay to fix it” so a new engine it is. Simple 👍🏻
@@fredygump5578 What do you mean "patch"? I have seen folks do this same repair and get another 100,000 miles out of their engine. IF it is done correctly, it is a fix and not a patch in my opinion. Is your experience different than this? I have seen a YT video of a guy replacing the rod bearings on a crank that is beyond shot, I mean gouges out of it, and the "repair" lasted about 10 minutes and it was knocking again. But, IF the crank is still in good shape, and the new bearings have the clearance within spec. it should be fine. I am not sure why Ray didn't check the clearances on each new bearings? If the crank is really bad, chances are the mains are gone too and the engine would need to be rebuilt.
Great video. My only thing is that, when I'd watch my uncle rebuild a motor like this he'd take the caps off and push the pistons up with the spark plugs removed, then use high powered air to blow thru the journal oil holes to make sure no tiny particles of metal got into the crank oil system. I know this because that was what he'd put me doing so I got all nasty from it since he did all this laying on the concrete (no lift) and I'd look like an oil refinery exploded on me..lol. I do know that, sometimes there would be small metal filing come out those oil holes. And if they did he'd use a pressurized oil device (of his creation) to force oil thru the crank to make sure it was flushed inside completely. Not sure if this is needed anymore with today's engines as this was on old 60s and 70s engines from Chevy, Dodge, or Fords. He paid me in the early 70s around $10 for each one I blew air into and $15 for it if I had to use the pressurized oil thru it. Yeah, young kids for your dirty work was a great thing...haha. Anyway, only thing I saw you didn't do so wasn't sure if it's needed anymore. Love watching your vids. I learn a lot watching. Mostly you guys get paid more hassle than you should from people who think things are so easy to do and shouldn't take more than 10 to 15 minutes, not knowing you, sometimes have to remove half the topside or reach into spots that are tight and on hot engines. Keep it up, bro. Maybe the world will find out it's not a simple fix always and lay off your backs. Take care.
I have to say that you sir have definitely made me have an bigger admiration for mechanics! The work and knowledge you have to do is truly amazing! You make watching these videos fun to watch! I was glad you were able to save that Mercury! Have a great day ! Just AWESOME!
Oh rats! You have displayed a new wrench type= ratcheting crows foot. Now I need to buy a set in Imperial and a Metric one. You can never have too many tools. More to the point, you're an excellent technician and I appreciate your videos. These two are great. Many thanks, Ray. Have a Great Day. If you're a father, Happy Father's Day.
I noticed those wrenches too. If I was still wrenching for a living I would be buying a set. Hell, I only work on my own stuff now and I am STILL contemplating it...
A guy back in the 60s head of 327 with the tunnel ram stock oil pan the engine suck some air and it spun one of the bearings, I remember them pulling the pan down and taking the bearing out looking at it and putting it in a bearing back in it crankshaft was not harmed, but the big end of the connecting rod was a little bit out around so it would not hold a bearing under high stress conditions.
It's refreshing to see a mechanic who actually takes the time to try to repair the engine, rather than just throwing up their arms and proclaim, "Nope, needs a motor."
I agree, in this case it was caught before irreparable damage was caused, so there's a lesson for all here.... if your car has a problem at least get it diagnosed so you don't make an expensive paper weight.
The total hours of labor for this would have probably covered an engine swap. If you knew for sure you were buying a good motor, the labor cost would ensure you are getting your money's worth. This might work, but long term is unknown.
And then there's the question of guarnatee: in this case, if the customer comes back after a week with the bushings spun again, now what? (on top of that, he will ask for his money back...)
@@brad3741 No, this WILL work. I've done it, and so have lots of other people. If the rods aren't damaged (they weren't) and the crank isn't totally hammered to death (it wasn't) just changing the bearings will get you many more years out of it. The bearings are deliberately the soft part of the system so they take almost all of the wear when things go bad, as long as you don't drive it so long that the bearings actually leave and the rod is hitting the crank. I've done the same thing on a Pontiac Grand Am with maybe a worse knock than this, and I didn't even smooth the crank like he did. 40k and 4 years later, it's still running and sounding like new. My neighbor is using it now.
enjoyed this immensely. thanks! just one thing, I may have missed it during the editing of the video but at 26:00 you put the nut on the oil pickup tube and finger tighten it. From that point on I never saw I wrench or socket ever put on it. You did the splash nuts but not once touched the nut on the support bracket. I hope I missed it in editing. :) Cheers from Louisiana.
Yep, he did the two oil pick up bolts, but not the filter end support bracket nut... I thought I had just missed it and did not rewind to check for sure.
At 26 minutes, while installing the oil pickup tube, you hand spun on one the lone bolt of the 3 that hold it on but never went back to tighten or torque it with a wrench or socket. Was that intentional or an oversight? Great videos.
I wondered if I was the only one who saw that after reading a ton of comments with no mention of it, hopefully he has strong fingers and it never loosened up because it definitely should have been tightened.
I had a customer with a Vortec V6 in a Hyster forklift that spun a bearing worse than this. I recommended doing a crank kit at min but he wanted to try cleaning it up first. I cleaned the crank, threw new bearings in it and cringed as I turned the key for the first time. It ran perfectly, every oil change I checked for any signs of problems and never found anything. 5 years later and 4000+ hours it's still running. I've done some sketchy stuff on my own vehicles knowing there's a minimal chance it'll work much less last and sometimes you get lucky.
@@Ender_Wiggin03 no the 2.4 twin cam is a 4 cylinder engine used in in smaller gm cars. Honestly better than the 3000 series if you ask me. Besides the 3800 wich didn't come in the grand am but can easily be swapped in
@@narwhal9852 I'm pretty sure you could get that 3800 (as the 3.8, later generation) in the Grand Am at some point. A lot of people had it and said it was really fast. The 2.4 was fast in that little tiny car, so I can only imagine the 3.8 lol
I've never seen it done as you would normally polish/repair the crank, which is engine-out. I don't know how long this repair will hold personally. That crank needed some attention.
Very impressed as well! I didn't know something like this could be repaired with the engine still in it. The engine might have other damage but at least it keeps the owner driving the vehicle a while longer until his ready to buy another one.
OTHER experienced tech's here on 'you tube', advising to replace shells DRY 'inner mating surfaces' DRY!!! ONLY 'light oil' 'shell back's', to facilitate correct seating, when clamping prior to final torquing up. I try to follow EXPERT CONSENSUS, yeah ?
@@jimmyj2563 nowhere near. I would have to try pretty hard to be farther away from Australia than where I've lived my entire life... Upper Midwest in the States... 😁
Wondering how this goes. I changed bearings in a 4.5L Cadillac years ago and while it fixed the knocking and ran great, the head gasket blew 2 weeks later (I know, no relationship). Have to wonder what else will go wrong with this poorly maintained pile.
Man i did like this, I love that satisfaction of fixing something where you don't quite know if you are going to fix it and it is absolutely perfect when you are finished.
Most shops would have not even given the customer this option. They would have said it needs another engine. If the other bearings/journals are good, the oil passages are clear (probably) and the kid keeps oil in it he should get a lot of miles out of the engine yet.
it's a ford product, something else will break that will be the reason the owner finally dumps the car. The engine is or should be, easily the longest lasting major component in any car, even VW makes good solid long blocks! Its usually electrical issues that kills VW's, anyway. If the car quits running because of actual internal engine wear/damage, either the car's not getting maintained or the driver is flat out abusing it on the road, or both.
Nice save! Never seen a motor with a spun baring saved much less reusing the same rod. How does the shop warranty something like this when there could be scuffed piston and other nasty surprises lurking around inside an oil starved motor that might last 100 or 100,000 miles? Really enjoy your videos and positive attitude. Thanks.
I have only ever done this on a 1932 Morris Cowley - at the roadside too - then I had to use engineers blue to set the shims and scrape the junkyard replacement shell to make the replacement shell bearing fit. Today with standardisation it seems easier!!
@@patrickpowers5995 When I was a kid I remember my dad telling me how his dad used leather from his belt in place of a rod bearing. Motors turned slow and times were hard back then
Slugg, I spun a rod bearing and the conrod had elongated into an oval on my turbo engine. With the engine in the car and without removing the crank, I was able to sand down the main and rod journals, and change all the main and rod bearings. Obviously the damage was much worse than his. I debated buying a new conrod but didn't want to have to remove the entire top end to pull the pistons so I decided to shim the conrod cap with a piece of soda can (just a shim on the bottom not the top) and used standard size bearings everywhere including that one conrod. I had debated whether to use one standard and one +1 oversize bearing on that one conrod but I'm glad I used the shim now. I checked all clearances with plastigauge. It runs great has good oil pressure (70 cold and 35 hot). I babied the car for the first couple hundred miles, changed the oil and since then have been driving it hard as normal. It's been about 6 months since the repair and runs great. All that to say, don't give up you can fix these type of problems without rebuilding the entire engine. One note about the journals. He didn't do much polished on his, they still look like they've got some bad scoring. I literally spent several hours just sanding mine down (4 rod journals) and in the end they looked like new with no scoring including the one that had the spun rod. I wouldn't have felt comfortable putting the new bearings on with the amount of scoring his had.
@@markgunther2502 Great fix. Necessity is the mother of invention. I remember my great uncle saying he cut a strip of leather from a belt to use as a rod bearing in an old flathead motor once.
This repair is certainly risky, and will not last very long, but if the customer had no money and needed his car to run, then this is about all you could do. Would have been much, much better to pull the crank and have it ground and polished by a machine shop and then put in all new bearings. Certainly this engine and crank was not past saving, and with the right repair and REGULAR oil changes, it could go another 91K miles, but the repair that was done may last 10K miles or 100 miles. Hopefully gets the customer to a spot he needs to be. Ray moved to a different shop, so probably doesn't have to worry about this car coming back, unless the owner sees the video.
Great job! I think most mechanics would have told the customer you need a new motor instead of doing that work. Nice to see an honest mechanic doing an honest job.
Most of the time the crankshaft and connecting rod are way too gone. Easier and sometimes cheaper to just get a new/used engine unless doing modifications.
Wow old school mechanic here never thought any were left,guess that one went out the door with no guarantee, but A+++ for effort and it worked, I was a generator mechanic with the 101 Airborne in Vietnam I would take parts out of one to make another work sometimes because it was so hard to get a replacement never changed spun bearings though, we were good abought our oil changes mostly carb and electrical issues, you are an inspiration!
For sale on Facebook marketplace in 3.....2.....1..... I just feel sorry for the next owner who's going to be on the hook for a new engine on his recently Facebook marketplace purchase!
What a great video. Thank you, Ray. I absolutely love watching you work and describe what you are doing. Thank you for not adding that annoying music. It is not needed. Your description of what you are doing and why is enough to satisfy us, your loyal followers. Ince again, Thank You. John
One of the strangest rebuilds I did was on a 50's GM 135 six cylinder engine that an old man used to haul empty metal barrels around in his truck. The old man didn't get over 45 mph and didn't want to spend much money on the engine. So I rebuilt the head, guides, ground the valves , seals etc. Then I used the crankshaft paper as you did in this video to polish the rod throws. When I started the engine up the oil gauge nearly pegged and even at running temp it had like 40 lbs of oil pressure which greatly puzzled me at first. Then I remember that the rod throws on the crank were egg shaped and the gap between the bearings and the crank created an oil pump effect! The old man drove that truck several more years before he gave out but the truck didn't! lol
That was fascinating to see inside the oil pan. It really helped me to understand how everything works. (And the importance of keeping oil clean and full). Thanks for sharing
I've done this job many times over the years. Only difference I usually replaced the mains while I was there, or checked them for scouring. You do right by your customers and love your content.
Good video ! How did you determine the +/- specs to order the new bearings ? ! Between the garage floor snot and the residual emery grit, which crank bearing do you think will puke first, 1 or 6 ? Appreciate ‘shop noises’ instead of canned BS music !!!
I'm gunna guess 6 hrs labor at $180 per. $160 for bearings and $80 for misc. Total $1320. If they use task codes instead of hourly it could be much more....$3,000..?
sometimes the repair isnt worth what you paid for the car. At that point it becomes a matter of "how much do you really like that car" and a matter of "devil you know" etc
Most repair shops will give you a ball park estimate before even working on the car so the customer can decide if its worth repairing, because no shop wants to pay its employees to do the labor just to have the customer to refuse paying the bill and just abandoning the car. edit: Just ask whoever services your car on how much a repair like that would be. You saw all the work done in the 2 videos so you know what to ask.
I'm so glad you performed this repair in this exact manner, it gives credence to an almost identical repair I performed a little over 18 months ago on my Toyota 1MZ-FE...
Just a question, i know the furthest rod bearings failed due to the incorrect oil level. Why did you not check the mains for possible wear / damage? I used to do technical failure analysis for our local Cat dealer before being placed on medical disability here in South Africa and that is the only instance where I differ from you. Also thank you for the absence of music which is u unnecessary in my opinion.
When the nut falls off, it will probably get knocked around a bit by the crankshaft and wind up in the pan, where it won't hurt anything. However, the pickup will start vibrating, and it will eventually crack or break off at the mounting flange, starving the engine for oil again. Bearings, take two!
@@edwatts9890 …..I doubt it. Other 2 bolts are tight. It will keep pickup secure for the life of that engine. If that nut comes off it’ll just drop in pan. No harm.
@@1320Jason: Nope. That pipe is long enough that I would estimate the first-mode vibratory response in axes "up-down" and "right-left" to be at about 15 to 100 Hertz. At frequencies at or about those numbers (900 to 6000 RPM, with additional input from ignition events at 45 to 3000 Hz.), the pipe will fail at its maximum displacement/stress point, and that will be in the heat-affected zone immediately adjacent to the weld which attaches the intake pipe to the flange which is bolted [relatively motionless] to the block's mounting point.
The Ford 3.0 liter was known to run on bearing grease without oil just top off the power seat fluid and the car will run quiet and smooth for 300,000 miles before changing your grease
I did the old Emory cloth-new bearings trick a bunch of times. Saved my butt pretty often. Works really well on low speed engines such as tractors & dozers, where 1100-1200 rpm is working speed.
This reminds me of when I hand planed the cylinder head and block on my old horse truck, using sandpaper and a wooden block. To my surprise, the 'repair' fixed the warped parts, and gave me years of trouble free motoring :) .
Did something like this in my daily driver Subaru. Flat benchtop, then 1" marine plywood, 1/4" glass, then various grades of wet & dry paper. Hours of work, but 35K later and still running strong. Zero leaks, great gas mileage, no funky noises, what more could I ask for?
What a great video. Every step recorded in real time. Thanks for putting everything you did in the video along with an actual explanation for what you were doing! Excellent!
how did you know what size bearings to buy, don't they need to be a specific thickness determined by the diameter of the rod journal and the crank? Did you plastigage them off screen?
Love stuff like this. The “save it if possible” approach needs to be a standard across more shops. Takes more skills and knowledge to repair than just replace. Nicely done!
If a tech (today, they are not mechanics most of them anyway) cant hook up a computer to ur car n the computer say, change the bearings, they're not going to know its even possible to change em let alone how to do it.
A tech goes to school from his highschool auto shop where he learns general repair based on what's done that he can witness. What he can read, what he may be taught, to going to tech school at a voc tech class, to a college of automotive tech. Several teachers may show how to teardown and measure for repair and obtaining the parts list information and ways available to address the issues they find. Larger schools with engine lab and a whole department may demonstrate the machine work. If a technician takes the full program, he has to be able to do all the work of an engine rebuild. They get engines from a yard and assign them to lab teams. The team has to be able to fully fill out their lab requirements and produce a running engine at the close of the program. What they are limited on is parts. With no paying customer, it's reuse most of it having learned and reassembled. If it's gutshot, they teardown another one. Once a technician starts his apprenticeship, it all starts over again with night school. The teachers are mastertech from car dealers if he's in a union. There's alot of thought required and alot of hours, days, weeks, months, and years. The spouse spends alot of time at home without him. He comes home sometimes and collapses in his dinner. Other programs require more self study and don't have engineers for teachers. But mastertech can teach you what's not in any book. It's alot to learn. And alot of tools to buy. Then you learn from journeymen on the job. When you get a job like ray has been assigned here, there's judgement that enters in. That sparkly oil that was in the pan, has been run through that oiling system. The pump, the cam, the galleries, every orifice can be holding on to small pieces of catastrophic carnage making bits. He had best clean and inspect every aspect and know that engines bulletins. The customer may expect ray to use his crystal ball. There isn't one. Ray needs to be sure that guy understands, this is an in the pan set of bearings, hopefully an oil pump, and a gallery flush. The mains haven't been inspected. I hope he does that. Cross your fingers. If some other failure occurs, the customer needs to have that idea explained before saying fix my #6 rod bearing and dress my crank journal only. They need that paperwork with his signatures and initials. If a job like this goes haywire later, it can be a very bad day. Then somebody has to buy a shortblock . And about thirty hours. Or another combination of parts and labor. Because Taurus platform cars are so labor intensive, it could be why they did this instead of demanding a remanufactured engine. You don't want to pull that one. I've seen techs lose their ass on major power train repair on these.
Un trabajo hecho a conciencia . Mis felicitaciones por tu paciencia y buen trato para con las piezas. Tal vez el valor de la reparación cueste más que el auto, pero si es para un amigo no tiene precio. Me acabo de suscribir a tu canal. Saludos de un argentino desde España
I hope you torqued the oil pickup holder nut off camera! It looks like it's forgotten and might be a bit of a time bomb if so 💥 Been months since though..
Great Video! Kudos to you! Just goes to show that there are still a few great mechanics w/ lots of knowledge & experience that can & are willing to help people out.!
The owner of that car must have really loved it, because this work would be incredibly expensive. You sir are an artist, a mechanic who has a passion for what they do & not just a job, you really did take a lot of pride in that, much respect to you.
He said it was a kid who bought the car and never changed the oil. He rebuilt the bottom end for a few shop hours and some parts. Few hundred bucks maybe. I hope the kid was grateful and starts doing oil changes.
Asking for a friend, didn't see enough damage on the rod bearings as you showed them to account for all of the chips that you pulled out! could the main bearings be in trouble as well? Or did you look at them as well and they were good.
GREAT JOB I KNEW IT WOULD WORK ,BUT IF I WHERE YOU IN THE FUTURE PLASTIGAGE THE NEW BEARINGS TO CHECK OIL CLEARANCE ,AND DROP ONE MAIN BEARING CAP AND CHECK AND PLASTIGAGE OLD MAIN BEARING JUST TO KNOW FOR SURE WHERE YOUR AT ,JUST MY ADVICE THREW MY OWN EXPERIENCE WITH THESE THINGS OTHER THAN THAT AWESOME JOB
