Great detail, very well done and explained. So well that I'm actually thinking of doing the change myself. Thank you very much.(RU-vid and the community are great !)
Thank you for the informative video. Your pace and explanations for why you did certain things was extremely insightful. Your approach and attention to detail were spot on. Thank you!
the sway bar link is huge PITA. best thing to do: heat up the front nut with map gas, lock in the back side with vice grips, use a socket and air gun to remove the nut. now is a good time to replace the POS end links.
Thank you for producing such a clear and concise video. I feel like I can tackle this project based on the knowledge you shared…. Definitely will subscribe to your channel! Keep Up The Good Work!
Yes you need bumper stop especially if you live in NY. Potholes galore. I had my struts changes and didn't replace a damaged stopper. When you go thru a speed bump you hear the metal bang hard..
Thanks for the video. Ok I have a question for anyone here. So I purchased a 2014 Sienna last week with 145,000 miles in excellent condition. Not sure if the van was on Pim my Ride but maybe..😜 the Model is an SE but I noticed the van was sitting up higher then other SE’s I looked at. I didn’t think much about until after the purchase. I looked under the van to see someone added spacers above the rear springs and the front struts…🤦♂️🤦♂️. Those are coming out asap. Since I have to drop the front strut should I just replace then struts with New?? They are fine and have no leaks but if I’m pulling them then I think it might be smart. Oh and someone painted the calipers like 1970’s ford blue..🙄🙄. The Van is a beautiful mica gray., I swear Xzibit had this vehicle ..😜😜🤣🤣. Thx for any response.
Amazingly detailed and very well communicated instructional video...thank you so so much.. Could you recommend some strut replacements for the 2015 Sienna? Also my friend who is mechanically inclined will be doing the work and don't think he has a compactor tool like you used to separate the strut from the spring, should I just order the strut with the springs or what?
That is a great question. I would say if you can find the loaded struts (strut & spring) assembly, that’d be the way to go. From the brands that I have tried throughout my career, I prefer KYB and Moog. I’m not sure what they have available in your area but if you can find those, they’re quality. I hope that helps and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Good eye! It’s not a big concern at all, unless you lived in a sandy dessert type of area. I’m not even sure did they even sell it separately at the parts store here, you might have to get to the loaded strut assembly if anything, and some of the loaded ones don’t come with them either. Also, you’re correct that they do deteriorate over time and fall apart over time.
Roy’s Garage Yes, they do sell separately. Part number 4815708020. eBay is about $30 each. However parts.lakelandtoyota.com seems to offer the lowest genuine Toyota parts. Are you in Hawaii?
@@RoysGarage808 this is actually the reason why on your channel I notice today that both front boots cover on my 09 sienna are broken. Should I be concerned on replacing them immediately?
I’m not 100% sure exactly what knuckle you’re talking about but if you’re talking about the two bolts locking in the spindle and the strut, and with your recent replacement of the axel, it could be two possible things: it could be that your axel might be too long OR you have to make sure that the axel goes all the way through the spindle. If it is the latter, you can shove it in as much as you can that some threads are showing and bolt it on as much as you can and push in the two bolts. I hope that answers your question and if not, let me know more about the issue with detailed description and maybe I could help more. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thanks - Very detailed except, where can i find the torque specifications for the bolts when reassembling the components ? That's pretty critical isn't it ?
Good question. I don't know where to get the torque specks. I have bin a mechanic for a long time. I go by feel. You will never see me using a torque wrench in any of my videos
@@RoysGarage808 the reason that I asked is cause I have a 2013 Sienna LE, with 78500 miles. At higher speeds 70+ , curvy roads and somehow loaded, I can feel the front has the boat feeling. Some ppl on amazon had comments that the KYB shocks lasted about 30k, so trying to decide between them. I found Toyota dealerships that sell the OEM discounted, so the OEM becomes twice vs KYB, instead of 3 times (MSRP). Giving the labor involved, I'd like a new pair that will last at least 70-80k.
Sometimes impacts can be used as long as you’re very careful and everything definitely has torque specifications, you can probably find them online or somewhere BUT after 45+yrs of doing this, you eventually learn to do things by “feel,” I guess it comes with the experience and I haven’t had any trouble yet. I hope that answers your question and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@RoysGarage808 You should try to test your feel method against a torque wrench. It would be an interesting self study. Apply the bolts or nuts using the impact to your feel, then come back with a torque wrench to see where they fall. Remember, over tightening can be just as problematic as under tightening. Every time I've ever had tires replaced, I advise the shop not to use an impact when putting the lug nuts back on. I will even watch. They hate me. But hey, I'm the one with the mechanical engineering degree.
@@willacewallace5905 hahaha I do own a torque wrench and I have tried testing against it, and I did just fine. Also, it doesn’t matter if the tire shops hate you, what’s important is that you feel safe in your vehicle and they should be happy to give you that peace of mind! Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Hey Roy, This is soo informative. I'm planning on doing my struts soon. Do you really need to take off the axel bolt? Is there anything else I can do to be sure the axel doesn't come out?
Bob St. Onge great questions! You actually don’t have to BUT after years of work and experience, I take off the axel nut as a precaution to prevent unnecessary work. The only way I’ve found to best prevent the axel from coming out is to take off the axel nut and push the axel towards the transmission so it doesn’t pull out of the joint when I take the spindle out. Just be very careful and keep an eye on that axel as you work because if the axel does accidentally come out, it’ll be really difficult to get it back in the joint. I hope I answered your question and thanks for watching!
It’s not too difficult but with each bolt you screw on, the might change a little. The camber gauge is just to allow you to get closest to the original alignment, and get you to the alignment shop with no drastic problems. Thanks for watching! 🤙🏽
Not a problem, I’m here to help but I believe you might’ve misunderstood your mechanic. There is an adjustment on the camber but NOT on the castor. I hope that helps, again, thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
