Good advice to change oil half way before services. I’d say that goo is sealant on the threads to avoid leaking. Very surprising considering it’s a known engine.
Be cautious when removing that oil filter cover. I just used this method for changing my oil on my V4 Rally this evening and the 8mm bolts did gall the openings…heck, they started to tap an 8mm thread into the 6mm exiting holes. If the steel bolts start to bite into the soft aluminum, this is going to happen. I initially saw the aluminum shavings and when I inspected the holes…sure enough, they were being enlarged by the 8mm bolts. YMMV, but I will be trying something different to remove that filter cover next time. Maybe I will thread the bolts into the cover threads and see about using the mounted bolts to pull out that cover rather than using the bolts to push agains that block of aluminum on the backside of the cover.
I changed my Hyperstrada 939 with Shell Advance Ultra 15w50 to replace the old (Motul 15w50 7100 I believe by the red color of it) the difference is: - shell makes the bike start quicker and feels more powerful when riding aggressively (touring and urban mode, I never try sport mode at all) - but the engine reaches 100 degrees faster than the old oil, I believe because Motul 7100 has slightly higher in viscosity , I don’t know for sure but Motul makes the engine run 10-15 degrees Celsius colder than the Shell M country is tropical and its hot season (30-35 degrees C)
Hi buddy thanks for your helpful videos, about the black things you found at the drain plug probably is FIPG, is just a seal, I guess Ducati wants to be sure is not going to be a oil leak. 😊
I decided to do the exact same thing. I'm thinking that the first change after the initial 600 mile service is going to be at 4000 miles. Per Ducati, they can't reset the oil service light before the bike reaches the designated mileage and turns the light on, so make sure you don't go to the dealer before you get the light on the next oil change. Curious - any material differences changing oil on the regular MSV4 and the PP?
Is zero difference and I also have a how to change the oil on a V4S which is absolutely no different other than the title of the video. It’s the same process and procedure.
Hi Rembo, your videos are great!!! I just had my first service done at 640 miles. I rode it home and it sat for about 2 hours and when I checked the oil before I took for a ride it is over filled from dealer. How can I remove some of the oil? Thanks in advance
Thank you, I checked it again on both front and center stand it’s a hair about the top fill mark. Took it off the front stand and went to top of window. Then took of back stand and checked it and again top of window. Noticed I had the suspension on two up with bags, adjusted the suspension to only single rider mode, felt the bike lowering check the oil again and just a hair over top line like when it was on both service stands. Interesting that by changing the suspension effected it that much.
Hi mate did you let it drain for a good amount of time as I no the v4 takes a good while . I've heard reports where people have taken the streetfighter v4s in and garages have done oil change and then put required amount and they have then been over filled on the forums . I've left mine draining over night since doing my v4 I've had. And little one mate I'd hide I'd of engine especially here in the UK 😢lots of stealing id s sadly . Great video Brembo as normal. Cheers pitch
That is absolutely not the case. You have to warm up the engine and you’ll always get an adequate amount of oil out. You will never completely drain the engine unless you tear it apart. If I did this when it was cold, I may have to wait that amount of time.
@@RemboUSMC There are different theories, or methods, when it comes to changing the oil with the engine warm or cold. When you warm up the engine it is true that the oil will flow better but you are also distributing the oil all up in the engine which means it will take some time for all of that to work its way back down to the bottom. I have sometimes planned to do my oil changes first thing the next day but I will pull the drain plug and filter the evening before and let it drain as long as it needs overnight. You can still even warm the engine to do this if you want. Nothing better or worse with either method, it's just personal preference.
Hey Rembo, with the trip to COTA, I'm well passed the 600 mile break in service on my new '23 Multi PP and I've always done my own service, but with my past Ducati's (Monsters, Panigale) I've had to have the dealer do a re-set (for a price) when I do my own service. I'm curious if with the Multistrada if there is a way to re-set the service reminder without having the dealer do it?
@@RemboUSMC Ya, I'm guessing it's the same as my other Ducati's - bring it to the dealer to have them reset - they'll do it for about $50 (a discounted shop rate)
😆 aaah yes, the black goo on the sump plug.... My theory is it's a sealant to prevent leakage because the thread is so easily stripped - how do I know you ask?......well my drain plug was damaged by the Ducati shop and when I did my Rembo Inbetween oil change I discovered the problem........I don't use torque wrenches on sump plugs for this reason.....I just feel them in firm, but for others with super strong wrists they may help prevent stripping a thread 👍. You have two questions below.....the answer to one is there is absolutely no difference between a PP and a V4S engine.....identical spec, no changes, same materials. Also, I forget the other Q, so you can do it, but my question is how much oil did you put in? I noticed the spec is 4.4Ltrs, with filter, but I find this results in an overfull sight glass level so I just do 4ltrs and add just enough to run with the oil level slightly above max from full cold (center stand). Thanks again Rembo for the filter removal tip, I have used my 3 bolts each time rather than break or scratch the cases......👍 Oh, waiting 2.5hrs......at $100/hr labour rates, yeah right.....I just push my V 4S onto the side stand and let it drain until it dribbles slowly.....there will always be about 500cc left in the motor no matter what we do (see the spec s for assembly oil volume and change oil volumes) so not an issue, and that's also another reason to do more frequent oil changes. Oh, one thing you didn't cover (very naughty of you 😜) is when starting the engine after changing oil & filter, is to not rev it immediately, or better yet, use the kill switch so you can stop it turning over before firing up......so the oil pump can fill the new filter before the ignition makes the engine run at 1500rpm......don't want any bubbles in the oil lines 😱
About to take mine in for the annual factory service (I still change oil in between..). Coincidentally, I just started having the same low speed/no speed stalling issues reported by Rembo on his MTS V4S now on my MTS Pikes Peak V4. Curious if anyone else has noted this? Rembo what was the final verdict for your V4S on the matter?
It occasionally happens but hasn’t happened in a while since I hit 5000 miles. It is only when in gear and the clutch pulled in when the bike is hot coming to a stop.
@Rembo USMC I just clicked over 5056 miles on mine too. In fact it is almost on the 5000 mark exactly that the issue popped up, has been flawless prior. Thanks for the update and reply👌 👀
Could you tell me where I can purchase that Shell oil that Ducati recommends? We have two Ducati dealers in St. Louis and neither one sells that oil. They use an oil that I think they call Motul, which they say is just as good. I would prefer to put the Shell oil in, but don't know where to buy it.
I now see there is a "Ducati" specific Shell Advanced oil in a red label. Might be new-ish? I also heard another RU-vidr reference this specific oil in a Panigale the sportiest version--with a pipe/tune-- adds 8 hp up to 240. Quite a claim.. Further, the oil is advertised as "no loss of horsepower as it wears". I have never heard an oil make such claims. Any thoughts on this?
I buy the oil directly from the Ducati dealer that matches exactly what is in the maintenance manual. I do this, so that if I ever have a warranty claim, I can point directly to my receipts that I did exactly what was asked.
Yes. It's the oil doing its job of suspending the carbon build up of the engine in the oil itself so that it may be flushed out with the oil change. Just because the oil is dark does not mean that it is bad and no longer doing it's job. These synthetic oils can go the distance of what the manufacturer suggests between oil changes with no problems under normal riding conditions even if the oil is completely black. Black does not always mean that the oil is burnt and broken down. Now, there is absolutely nothing wrong with changing the oil early like he is doing here. Fresh oil is always a good thing.
My dad always told me as a young lad many moons ago haha . Your never put enough fresh new oil in a engine to ruin it . I've always stuck to that rule.
Hi Rembo!. This 'black gummy stuff' is Joint Paste (i guess that's the name in English). You have it between the silver metallic part of the engine and the golden one (min 5.22). It's an excess of material being applied from the factory. In honest opinion, quite dangerous because it can go somwhere no desired and get stuck there causing bad lubrication. Also... What the hell is doing your bike with the oil??? 😂 Only 5000miles and looking that bad... Honestly I hate Shell oil, It gave me such bad results on my Multistrada950 (massive oil consuption, almost like a 2stroke engine). Have you tried Motul oil? Have a nice day!
Your oil is not clear in your last shot. My mechanic told me it takes about 2.5 hours for the oil to drain out of the V4. I waited 3.5 hours and my Pikes Peak V4 2023 took 4+ liters of oil and the viewer still shows clean oil, not like yours.
Thanks for the info. You will, never, ever, ever get all of the oil out of any combustion engine. To speed up the process and get an adequate amount out, the engine should be warm or hot. Millions of vehicles have oil, changes regularly, and they are done and drained in about 5 to 10 minutes. Fresh oil and a filter are very important for the longevity of any engine. Personally, I change mine twice as often as recommended by the manufacture.
Esta moto tiene 4 años de garantía, el cambiar el aceite antes del intervalo marcado por el fabricante es tirar el dinero. No le notarás nada al motor por ese cambio de aceite antes de tiempo
En los Estados Unidos solo tenemos una garantía de 2 años. no se trata de la garantía, se trata de tratar la moto con respeto para que dure más que la garantía.
