This is a picture video on how to go about replacing the rear shock on a 2008 Honda Goldwing GL1800 motorcycle. First off, if your Wing is pogo-sticking while going down the road, the rear shock has died. There is no rebuilding of the rear shock and the pre-load on the shock has nothing to do with the actual shock itself. So if your bike is bouncing up and down or going down and then a sudden clunk when it bottoms out, your shock is dead and should be replaced. You can have a formal or a non-formal funeral for the dead shock...it doesnt matter. However...DO NOT BUY ANOTHER SHOCK THAT HAS BEEN REBUILT. One of my friends who is now retired, but worked at a dealership for over 20 years told me that he has never seen a rebuilt shock last longer than 6 months of use...and it is a lot of work to take everything apart just to get to the shock.
What and how to do...
NOTE: While you have your bike pulled apart this far, you might also want to check and/or change out your air filter.
SHOCK ABSORBER REMOVAL
1. Put the bike on the center stand and remove the seat and then the shelter.
2. Remove the 4 bolts from the brain box mounted on top of the air filter box. (You will need to push this up slightly to get the fuel tank out, but dont bend the brain box around because the cable for your cruise control is there too.
3. Disconnect the 2 upper bolts and the 2 lower bolts holding the fuel tank and the electrical plugs from the fuel pump and remove the fuel tank, (Be on the left side of the bike and lift the front of the tank up and push the brain box up a little to clear the brain box. Once the front mounting tabs on the front of the gas tank are clear of the brain box, lift up a little more and rotate the tank towards the right (clockwise direction) side and then lift it out. Drain as much gas out as possible to reduce the weight)
4. You do NOT have to remove the rear tire.
5. Remove the 4 bolts holding the right saddle bag in place, then push it back a little for access to the preload pump bolts.
6. Disconnect the pre-load electrical connectors from the pre-load pump.
7. Remove the shock absorber lower mounting nut and bolt. (note...ONLY remove the nut and bolt on the lower shock...the squared off flattened out u-bolt looking piece on the bottom of the shock.
8. Remove the nut from the right side and then UNSCREW the bolt from the left side, because it threads into the rocker that it is bolted to. Pay attention to the clocking of the old shock BEFORE removing it so that you will know which way to set the new shock in place. place the new shock assembly in place and route the rubber pressure pre-load line around and down into the clamp exactly as it was with the old shock.
9. Install the bolt and nut, then tighten to 31 pounds feet. (The bolt is installed from the left side so that the nut is on the right side). You will need to raise the rear end of the bike slightly to get the bottom bolt holes on the shock and the rocker to align to insert the bolt. Have someone pic the back up a little or place a jack under the back of the bike. CAUTION...dont go wild with the jack or you will tip the bike over. As you raise the back of the bike up (no more than about 2 inches), you will see the holes start to align to install the bottom bolt thru the rocker from the left side of the bike. Tighten the bolt to 31 pounds feet, then install the nut from the right side and tighten it to 31 pounds feet.
10. Remount the pre-load pump after routing the line that puts pressure to the pre-load part of the shock.
11. Reinstall the right saddle bag.
12. Reinstall the fuel tank.
13. Reinstall the 4 bolts for the brain box.
14. Reinstall the shelter and dont forget to plug in the radio antenna wire and the 2 plugs under the shelter.
15. Reinstall the top panel piece that snaps in place, but dont forget to reconnect the wires to the tweeter speakers.
16. Reinstall the seat after connecting the plugs for seat & grip warmer.
I also recovered my air rams that go into the air filter box with stainless steel window screen wire again. The screen wire is held in place with 2 wire ties and then duct tape over the wire ties. I recommend this to keep critters like mice or rats from setting up a condo in your air filter box. There are many videos on YOU TUBE that show what these critters can do...and it is a mess. I strongly recommend getting your new rear shock from Partzilla.com because the Honda dealership wanted $1400.00+ for the rear shock and Partzilla had the EXACT same OEM Honda shock for $880.00. The Honda shop, Honda West (Freedom Powersports) on West Loop 820 in Fort Worth told me their price without so much as a hint of adding any KY Jelly...much less a reach around. I have come to believe that they mark everything up at least 20% over MSRP. If you decide to take on this adventure for yourself (DIY) and you need help...gimmie a holler.
8 сен 2024
