How to Change the Transmission Fluid and Filter Honda Civic 2009-2011 

Thanks 👍

I removed mine years ago to install a K&N intake so it’s just two bolts and a clamp to get it out.

Thanks for watching!

If you do a drain and fill transmission fluid change, you'll only get out about a third of the fluid each time, so usually people do at least 3 drain and fills to get most of the fluid out. If you're doing it that way, might as well change the filter on your 3rd fluid change since most of the fluid will be new by now.

That's expensive smdan

I get gasket & filter package with 3 or 4 quarts of oil.

@@2carpros I bought a used 09 Civic last year at 99,000km it's now at 129,000km. Should I change the transmission fluid or should I wait for the code to appear on the display? Thanks

Except for the filter location that you can only reach with one hand.

Not so fast Daniel son , there is an internal filter also , so don’t play the “ Cobra Kai never die “ card yet 😭

Glad you think so!

Thanks so much for watching!

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

You are so welcome!

I had 180K on the original filter before I changed it. I cut it open and other than discolored filter media, it looked fairly ok. I won't replace it again for at least another 100K miles.

@@timetryp422 so whats the perfect mile for changing it

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Yep, just tighten to PFT, ( "pretty ..uckin' tight), and that should do it.

German torque bro

lol. I noticed that too.

Ain’t fricken kidding I invented curse words while doing it

Facts. I’m dreading it😔

Thank you so much for watching!

If its completely stock, well maintained by previous owner, and only 21k miles, you got a car that will last you a crazy long time if you continue to maintain it properly. I would check the owners manual to see the recommendations for maintenance. It will show you what you need to change/replace and how often to do so. Just follow that and you’re golden🙌🏼 my 09 civic has 200k miles and i’ve never ran into any mechanical issues; every single thing on my car is stock, except alternator and battery.

You're welcome!

Lol you dont need that bolt anyways, as long as the airbox is hooked up to the hose and the connections are good.

If I get one in I will do some fix it videos for you! Thank you for watching!

Thank you, I would love that. I just purchased a 2014 RDX and would like to do some work on it myself. Cheers

Yeah this is a great place to start! Let me know what happens. Thank you so much for watching!

Remove both rubber hoses that attach to the in-line transmission filter. I found it was easier to get at the clips on the opposite ends of the filter hoses and easier to reinstall. So when you pull the filter, it still has the hoses attached.

@@timetryp422 thats what I did its a bit easy that way than removing the hose from both end of the filter.

@jew395 What happened to the transmission?

@@mostafahonari8443 ...No reply we're all left hanging :(

No. You would have to take the fluid out to get to the filter. Thanks for watching!

They are supposed to. Thanks for watching!

I imagine it would be very similar if not the same. Thanks for watching! Do you mean it turns right while you're driving or when when your coming to a stop?

Honestly the airbox is the hardest part becides getting the lower clamp off the filter. I even had a hose clamp tool, but it wouuldnt close tight enough to fully release the clamp. It just bent my tool! took hours on one clamp, & ive been wrenching since the 90's

Yea, access is quite difficult. There is no room to move tools into position. The airbox is a pain to remove and even harder to get back in. I will run at least 100,000 miles on the new filter before I replace it again.

Not really. But you do need to reach operating temperature to check the fluid level.

If one comes in I will do a video on it! Thank you for watching!

outstanding. I will keep watching , fingers crossed. (I live to far away to drop off my mini)

Sell it!

You don't have to but it will increase the life of your transmission. I always replace the filter when I change the fluid. Thanks for watching!

U have a vid of that?

Is there a transmission filter ( a second one) inside the transmission pan, too?..

There is no pan on this transmission. No filter internal filter is accessible.

Manuals shouldn't have a filter. Just drain and refill.

It should be very similar. Thank you for watching!

2CarPros Than you was just wondering about the filter part of it was a inside the pan or on the lines...

Try rockauto.com thanks for watching!

In what regard?

Well; if you replace the oil in the transmission/ diff, you still have , maybe, half of the oil left in the torque converter and oil cooler, how do I replace that ; or is it enough to just replace what is in the transmission ?......... very good video!!!!, thank you

Yes it should be super similar, thank you for watching!

Correct. You are changing half of the fluid and more importantly the filter. Thanks for watching!

@@2carpros So is there a way to completely flush out all the old ATF and replace with new ATF?

@@DrRestorations You would want to change the transmission oil and let it cycle for about 1000 miles or some people just suggest a good full week of driving and then change it out again. So you'd be doing two transmission changes. That's probably the safest way to do it.

Nope. Here is a link for Manual. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WqDixYeqslI.html

Rust / corrosion / impact wrench happy technicians will do that... A long extension / breaker bar works wonders. If you don't have one of those, you can try slipping a pipe or something else hollow over your wrench and using that for extra leverage. If you are using a floor jack, the handle to the jack works well too. When replacing the drain bolt, you don't need that much force at all. Hand tight + a quarter turn for the crush washer (about 30ish foot lbs of torque) is plenty sufficient.

I imagine you're talking about removing the airbox....I had an issue too because of the rivet on the upper left

Even changing the air filter is a pain!

Is there an answer for this?

gotta use that genuine honda atf

EBay.

Go to Honda Dealership parts for all your supplies. Maybe a couple nickels more than advanced auto parts but you are getting honda genuine products.

There's no shortage of online shops selling Honda OEM parts. Seek and Yea Shall Find.

It is in the converter.

You can do it that way, but you have to know what you are doing, otherwise, you could do a huge amount of damage.

You can't get at it.

Yes, 2/3 is still in transmission and torque converter. So to flush, Drive car through all gears including reverse, then drain oil, do this three to four times so mostly new oil is in... Easy to drain, no lift required..

the only way to empty that is to do a flush......

The easy way to do a complete system evacuation is remove the line from the filter and let it drain into a bucket.

Probably good for 100K miles. That is for the filter only.

U maybe over doing it. I did mine at 50K/96 months, and fluid still looks cherry red. Chilton's manual says every 120K or 72 months.

LOL Now that would be funny. Thanks for watching!

I recommend every 60-100k Thanks for watching!

The 9 quart approach is essentially renewing the entire volume of the fluid. The 3 quart replacement would be good too; I'd just run less miles on the transmission before doing the next 3 quart change. I do the 3 quart change every 10K miles - the fluid coming out always looks relatively uncontaminated (minimal dark coloration).

They never claimed it was easier or faster. Time consuming project!!

Right around 100k miles. Thanks for watching!

If the partial 3 qt. change is done frequently enough, it is adequate If you run the mileage to 60K or 70K between any changes, then the dilution approach would be appropriate. That's adding the 3 qt., driving awhile then changing it again. A third change in succession pretty well dilutes most of the old fluid out.

transmissions get use to old fluid. Its actually better to only change out 3 quarts rather than to flush entire transmission of (6 quarts). This way it stays clean & wont throw off friction consistency too much.

*intense breathing* Thanks for watching!

Shhh this wasn't supposed to be mentioned

Replacing the filter is essential. Thanks for watching!

The best! Thanks for watching!

Yeah but, we got this! Thank you for watching!

@@2carpros I did it!!! Much needed perseverance, but nailed it!!! Fresh new transmission liquid and filter. Thanks for the video!!! Definitely helped!!!

Looks easier than having to drop the transmission pan from underneath and replace the gasket method, though..

@@steveandrews8301 Not at all easier or faster.

What? You have to change it some way or another. Doesn't matter how you fill it. Thanks for watching.

​@@2carpros The point is that if you drain a gearbox, transmission, rear differential, radiator, Before confirming that you can fill it you can create a huge headache for yourself. Also by accessing the fill port 1st the fluid will drain faster.

@@jefferyshelley6480 IT'S A FUCKING DIPSTICK FILL POINT NUMNUTZ

I was able to get the air box out, but seating it back in took a frikkin deadblow, and I chipped the box’s lip in two places, and I was never able to get the big hose in the back back on properly, so car is still sitting in garage. Couldn’t get the hose clamps on the lines to the filter to compress either, so didn’t even change the filter. Total disaster and total failure. Gonna have to take somewhere to get it done.

Went back and seated the air hose correctly using lube to help. Never did change the filter though.