Great to see someone on the internet showing the proper way to change oils, same way I was taught to do everything by a mechanic. The simplest tricks can save people a lot of money and headaches, especially removing fill plugs/caps before draining fluids.
Some great info right here! But remember that changing your oil is not a full service! Checking the condition of steering/suspension components, lights, brakes ect is all very important to check or have checked regularly
Great video! I have gone through many oil change diy videos on RU-vid, but no one seems to emphasize the little tip to LUBRICATE THE O RING. It is very important. I had a friend blow an engine because the mating surface of the o-ring was a bit too clean, and it pinched the o-ring while turning the filter to tighten it on. It blew the o-ring out when the engine was revved higher on a highway. During the retrospect, everyone blamed the o-ring. I knew that wasn't the case. Always oil the o-ring!
Great tips and advice guys. Love all the videos. Here's one more tip regarding the oil filter cartridges like the the one on your 79 Shauno. When replacing the oring on the oil filter cap, make sure that the oring is not twisted when it falls into it's groove. That will cause a leak from the oil filter housing when you screw the cap on. Just run a small screwdriver in-between the oring and the cap and that will untwist it. Keep up the good work
Done a couple of long trips away with the camper trailer and have done midway engine oil changes in the Patrol at a camp site, take all the gear you mentioned and the old oil goes in the new oil container once refilled, get rid of it when we get home. I also have the Provent 200 catchcan and drain that too at the same 5000k mark, really good to see how well they work.
I got a really call tip for everyone When u change the oil filter pull it out like in the video but then before taking the actual filter out put a freezer Bag on ur hand grab the filter and then tie the bag up and it’s ready to get thrown
Great video, I would kill for a Toyota diesel here in Canada!!! All we have is petrol in our Tacoma’s and tundras. Love the channel and I am slowing watching all the videos loaded onto RU-vid. The old ones have a different fashion sense than some of the new, lol!! Thanks for the great laughs and keep them coming!! Stay safe down under boys!!! Cheers!
When using one of those oil syringes/pumps, make sure the hook at the end of the hose is in nice and tight. I once had it blow off and into my diff 🤦🏽♂️
I've done my engine oil and filter before but have always been intimidated by doffs and transmission. Some really great tips, I'll be doing some routine maintenance very soon!
Another handy tip! When doing the filter, place a sheet of foil below the filter before you take it off. With the foil you can wrap around your car to keep it from getting messy AND! YOU CAN USE IT TO DIRECT THE FLOW OF THE OIL! NO MORE MESSY DRIVEWAY
Can you make a maintenance series? For both petrol and diesel. Greasing, replacing, checking for leaks, replacing parts, air filters, sparks ect ect. Tia
Good one mate, 35’s make a little more room under the 79! First time I changed the old 60’s oil at home it was running stock 31’s... lots of skinny thinking!! 33’s improved that, and a little 2 inch lift. 👍
Never power flush a transmission! I have destroyed 2 trans doing power flushes! Drain, fill, drive around the block, drain, replace filters, fill. Power flushing can force debris into places it can’t get out of and wreck it!
Don't forget about the brakes. Brake fluid naturally wicks moisture. This moisture finds its way to the calipers then begins to corrode them. It's easy to do and won't require bleeding unless you let the reservoir run dry. You'll also maintain that nice stiff brake pedal like when the vehicle was new. Might as well change the power steering occasionally too.
Top video mate and I don't even own a 4WD (hopefully that will soon change). I empty the old oil out at the tip myself and always bring 2 empties home with me. That way I know I've always got enough containers to store the old oil. Another tip I recently come across (and it helps with mess) is if you have one of those cartridge type filters, undo it until the oil starts flow and then leave it until the drips stop, then remove the filter completely. The oil flows nicely down the outside of the filter and into the pan. The big retail outlets have their top level oils 50% off at least once every 3 months. Just buy it then even if it isn't time to change the oil. e.g. you can get Castrol Edge for $35 (or less) and I once got the 10L for $65.
Awesome video! Quick tip when installing any cartridge filter make sure the o'ring is seated correctly and that the o'ring is not twisted as it my get pinched and not seal. Also how many people out there checking the 3.2l rangers bt50 motors for the wiring rubbing on the timing cover??? Would be interested to see how many people out there doing that.
Great video as usual Shaun. Do you change your fuel filters at the same time. I did have an old 95 Disco and everything was very easy now a 2015 Collie and I am lost. I miss the old tractor style engine.
Just find a nice drainage ditch. Its like natures oil change bay. Pull up over it and drain away, no mess, no problem. Give that oil back to mother earth. 😉
A good tip if you have the steel body engine oil filter and its to tight to undo you can get a bit phillips head screwdriver and wack it thru the side of the filter and out the other side then use like a t handle 😉 this works everytime I get a tight filter undone works a treat with limited tools
If you happen to be that guy who forgets the 10minute rule regarding the 3.2lt Ranger/BT50, pour 13litres of oil in and let it sit overnight before you crank. The idea behind this is for the oil level to come up above the height of the pickup and pump, thus forcing the oil to feed itself up the pickup tube into the pump. Vein style pumps can’t create a vacuum to pull fluid unlike gearset oil pumps, hence why power steering pumps have fluid feed in from the top
Old oil is a winner for a fuel for a fire. Will burn real nice and start & keep a fire going. I often use sump oil to keep a fire going if i cbf’d getting more wood.
Hey guys with cartridge filters you need to clean the cover for it with brake cleaner and a rag so there’s no old oil left and for the rubber seal on the filter there is a grease Penrith sell to rub lightly around the rubber seal to prevent it from sticking.
Here's a tip for diffs and transfers. Buy one of the easy squeeze nulon Bags and the remaining oil in bottles. Then refill/reuse the bag everytime you want to do an oil change. Saves throwing away 5 bags each time and means you don't need a pump bottle
I drive my vehicle to operating temperature and then let it stand over night. In the morning I drain the cold engine oil for 45 min. Doing it this way it takes 6.5 liters as opposed to 6 liters doing hot and a lot less mess.
if u happen to spill old oil onto the concrete or cement have a bottle of shellite at hand just spray and wipe, also shaune didn't do this but doesn't matter if u do or don't but you should also wipe in where the old oil filter was that way you don't contaminate the brand new oil and oil filter
My old man bought a Ute brand new in 2003 and we have done every service on it since, it’s never even seen a mechanic. Almost at 500k kms. 2.5td ford courier. The secret to long engine life is regular oil changes
The best tip is written on Diesel Rolls-Royce dip sticks - “You Buy clean oil, so keep it clean!”. Be as clean as you can while changing oil on any component! You would be surprised what damage can be done!
If you've got an older diesel without a catalytic converter, don't use CJ-4 oil because it's limited to 800ppm of zinc. Using CI-4 or CI-4+ is the way to go.
Interesting thanks, do you know what the best oil would be for a Toyota 2.5 D4D Turbo Diesel Intercooler, it is a 2012. I want to look after the turbo, but do not want to run it for 10,000KM as suggested by Toyota. I would rather have a good oil that protected the turbo and the engine and change it every 5-8000KM. No cold starts, but high ambient temperatures, normal ranges over the year would be 10C - 45C. thanks.
Mineral oils are literally garbage! We didn't evolve from mineral to 100% Synthetic like Amsoil for no reason! The best protection oil is the oil that has the strongest film, the best cleaning additives, the least affected from heat etc.
Shauno, I'm not trying to give you grief mate - but those copper (crushable) washers are important on each of the plugs on each of the ancillaries; I agree a 3/4" socket on an air rattle gun isn't required but perhaps you might pay a little attention as you would, in making a curry in between iron jacks. I'll let it slide as this is a result of getting bored not being on the trails - always enjoy your tubes man in the wilderness ✌🏽and the show must go on...... Graham???
If you have your oil filter in the engine bay. What I like to do is use an old base of a take away container. Like the ones from Indian or Chinese. They are shallow and flexible plastic. Squeeze that directly into place under your oil filter when you remove it and it will catch all the oil right there at the source .without the oil having to free fall between all the other engine parts getting them full of oil. Just be careful as it's trickier to remove that container without spilling
Thank you for stating the side poor. In my mind Castro's bottles have been the best. the side handle works best when used in the opposite direction( easiest used for the side poor as explained earlier. Only experienced oil changers go for complete opposite direction) then you would normally, the poor is always consistent and you never have to worry about the g l u p...
So here’s a question for you Shauno with the new ranger how you said you can’t drain for over 10 mins is it worth when draining the engine oil just to throw a couple hundred mills of new oil down it to fully flush out all the old stuff
Good question! but it would probably not reach all of the old oil as it would only flow in the path from the oil filler cap directly down to the sump of the engine.
Don't worry if there is little bit of oil left in there. Your adding 9 odd Liters of fresh stuff to not much dirty stuff. Just get it done in under 10mins. Have all you shit ready to go.
Cool tip someone told me. Use a 2 litre coke bottle cut the bottom of it and have the lid screwed on tight and put that over the oil filter to reduce the amount of oil spill. Do it to my RC colorado works mint.
Thanks Shauno, awesome video, very informative, now that all the oil is changed and topped up with fresh lube, when should you grease all the grease nipples in and around the cab (propshaft, CV, WB, control arms, etc)
The best part of doing your own oil/fluid changes is YOU know that it's done right and that no apprentice or dodgy mechanic hasn't done anything to save money and or give you low quality cheap oil and filter.
Not to be critical Toyota Landcruisers use 9.2L of engine oil, also reminding that DPF and Non DPF use different grades. They also use 75w90 in both the Transfer and Transmission, with the fluid you are using you will find they are too thick. Also the diffs require oils to be changed every 40k not every 20k. Try using genuine parts as well, they are designed with flow rates that are correct. And the biggest things you missed were the fact that you reused washers. Replace them every time! Its cheap insurance to prevent leaks.
When I first start my vehicle after an oil change I always look underneath to make sure there are no leaks. I have had an oil filter gasket fail and an oil pump relief valve fail that blew apart the oil filter.
Random question, thought I check. Has anyone heard of a Toyota service centre tell a customer their 5 year warranty on their engine is void because they changed their oils at 5K intervals and not what is recommended by Toyota manual? Cheers
Its bit of a waste but I like to put a litre of new oil in after old oil all drained out and let that drain out too. Just think it helps get the last bits of gunk out the sump 👍
Cost effective maintenance (Google it) have the best flushing and oil additives.. 99% of what's out there is hocus pocus but that stuff works like you wouldn't believe. Everyone thinks oil in a diesel goes black instantly but that's simply not true if you know what you're doing.. Take it from me I used their flushing additive and my oil was still golden brown after 3500km whereas it would be instantly black after an oil change even with some branded oil flush.. And I own a td42 one of the dirtiest diesels getting around.. Get onto it.
Absolutely, just hit 5000km and the oil is still golden brown! The sludge that came out on the first treatment was incredible too. Love the stuff. Pro ma do a good additive as well but the flush from CEM is great
@Anonymous geezer it's a 3RZ those cunts don't die. They're what are in all those workmate petrol Hiluxes and they take lots of boost and make big power.
10l of oil I thought I had it hard being a ve commodore 7.5 is such an odd number and very few companies make a 7l size so am forced to buy ether 6l+ 1l or I’ll need more then I need and it just sits around until the next oil change puts me in a very unique situation as it’s always a case of I’ll need more oil as I won’t have enough.
