hey Chris , thanks heaps for watching our videos. I have a video on how to remove and install them, best way to wash them out is degreaser and pressure washer, then with compressed air. don't forget to regrease em
You should use a drill bit to make an indent on the axle that the grub screw fits into. This prevents the grub screw raising the metal to a level above the axle surface. It makes it MUCH easier to remove the axle. Very important not to drill right through the axle. I use a bolt with a hole drilled through the centre. I screw the bolt in place of the grub screw. I then use the hole in the bolt as a drill bit guide. The result are indents perfectly aligned with the grub screw. Clamps the axle really well and makes it easy to refit an axle back into the same position.
Thank you very much for these videos! Hugely, hugely helpful to a new go kart Dad. Trying to get good at the basics for now. I think an awesome series (more content) would be what to do in panic situations. IE- crash in a pre final with a severely bent axle, tie rod ect. Thanks again!
Another thing to keep in mind is some axles (like on my TopKart) are directional, meaning the keyways are not symmetrical on both ends of the axle. One end is intended for the sprocket carrier and the other for the brake rotor, so make sure you have the ends right before sliding it back in...
yes the DD2 is slightly different. Only major difference being the removal of the engine drive coupling. Then you should be able to remove the axle out through the engine side of the kart.
What torque would you suggest for the hub bolt? I did not see you apply a lot of muscle wit the Allen key. I had an experience of the hub/wheel "leaving" the at a good speed on a straight... Several contributing factors (1" of 40 mm axle engagement in the hub, slight damage to the hub bore from a loose key, and likely not sufficient clamping force from the bolt) Replacing the hubs, modifying the axle to permit a longer key with the pegs and increasing hub engagement. Doing club racing in 4 stroke Briggs here in Canada. Thanks for a great source of information on OTK karts.
thanks heaps for tuning in and watching the videos Miro. its an M8 bolt which is 20Nm if you are using a Torque wrench for tightening. otherwise arm strong with an Allen key is normally enough to keep the wheels from coming off
I personally remove the sprocket, then the sprocket carry, as that way when you put the new axle in, and do everything right, you don’t have to take all the time getting the chain tension right
@@PowerRepublic primarily x30 with that being the easiest thing to find races for over here in the states, but I got an old rotax and lo206 to still have some fun in
@@PowerRepublic I’m a east coast racer and unfortunately rok gp isn’t too big over on this end I’m pretty sure I could punch my ticket to Europe if I just bought the engine. Ka100 is really taking over out there to the point even x30 is getting killed off with 60+ ka fields at nationals with maybe 30-40 in x30 and rotax has almost been completely killed with really no major series running them. I love my Briggs it’s a great skill builder and a blast when it comes to easy fun. I’m personally surprised it isn’t law to run WPK or arrows over there
Axle slides in so smoothly. Do you use fine-grit sandpaper to go inside the bearing carrier so the Bearings are not so stiff and can move freely and align? Do the insides of the bearings themselves get a little surface area polished off?
yeah once the axle bearings are aligned, then the axle slides in like a dream. I do use emery paper when the axle is old or rusty, but not when brand new. Nah, just grab some new ones. they are a consumable too.
Any idea where I can get an axle basher like the one you used? I have seen them with a smaller diameter on the main shaft so they can be used for 30mm, 40mm, or 50mm basher heads, but I really like the one you have because it is supported nicely in the bearing all the way until the axle is through the brake hub. If only I had a lathe!!!!
Power Republic I’m in the US. If you can find reasonably priced shipping, even if it’s really slow (its winter here) I’ll buy one. I’ll send my contact info through your website.
Hello! Thanks for this useful video. Would you know where I can find the tube you use to hit on the axle? As I don't have the special tube you have, I can only hit on the axle until it is flush with the brake, but then it is blocked.
Quick question, I currently have a wooden push go cart 😂😂 I would like to upgrade it to a 48v 1800w motor . I current have wheels with bearings built in . With the rear axle should the wheels move on it or should they be fixed so they don’t move ???
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uSCl5jIhb0M.html the wheel hubs should slide on the axle. Looking forwards to seeing this project completed!!!
Love your video series! Just switched two drivers (my sons) over to Kosmic mercury R karts in the last few months (One last year and the other starting in a couple of weeks). Both were used karts (only one race each). The karts arrived with the rear brake side bearings on different from each other. One is the same as your video where the collar of the brake side is outside, but one kart has the collar on the inside matching the engine side. Our Birel's were always on the inside. Does this make a big difference???
I do them up as tight as I can with the short end of the T bar Allen key. Make sure you use some loctite to keep them in, Also if you are using a soft axle its best to use the axle stiffener bushes on the inside of the axle to stop the axle from deforming too much from the grub screws.
we change them mostly because the conditions have changed and the driver isn't happy with the chassis. if you are only new to karting it wont change your world, so easiest way is to leave the medium axle in it and have fun. bigger guys v's little guys, tony kart v's other brands, bridgestone v's dunlop, hot v's cold, rain v's dry etc etc are all variations to consider for axle swaps. My recommendation for the guys that haven't used different axles before.... buy one soft, one medium and one hard. go to the track and test them in different conditions with your driver/chassis/tyre/ambient temperature and then you will know what works best for you and your package. hope that helps.
@@PowerRepublic thanks for the response, Yes I'm new to karting and I have a FA Kart running the DFH. Been trying all sorts of things testing but putting a U axel in over the N axel has been the best change. 1 second a lap. But I don't know why or when to go back harder 😂
generally the senior drivers on medium and soft tyres go with a 50mm. Cadets and Juniors go with the 30mm and the 40mm is for medium power engines and medium grip tyres.
@@PowerRepublic Nice one and thanks. I will try it. After 8+ years of karting, first time I've seen this hack (I've been drilling access holes on the outer side of the guard and using a long key to ensure they are tight). Cheers and keep up the good work.
Hi Dez, Thanks for the video, I came across few times with m6 cap screws on the brake disc carrier snapping, (only applying arm force) same for the m8 on the hubs. Is there a newton torque chart to follow when doing these routine tasks? I found myself questioning many times, is it tight enough? Or is it too tight? Another question is, when re installing the axel, is it better to loosen the bearing cassette screw? So all the bearings self align? Cheers
the torque settings are available on line, just google the size you are after. www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-bolts-maximum-torque-d_2054.html I would, but there is another way you can do it too where you line them up from each side of the kart and then locking them into position .
@@PowerRepublic Great, got the chart. Will try to line them up, from outside first then install the third one and see what happens, I always had the issue that the axel spins free with the two outer bearings, as soon as I tight the mid bearing cassette onto the chassis the axel doesn’t spin as free. I will give it a go. Thanks for the tips again as usual 👍🏼🤙🏼
Hi!!! Thanks for all the great videos!! Have a bent 30mm rear axle that's pinching in the bearing collar. Any suggestions on how to get it out? I've tried to knock it out but it's stuck. Probably looking at cutting it to get everything apart but any suggestions help at this point! Thanks again!!
if it has more than about 6 or 7mm band in it, then it is probably stuffed and you can cut it out with an angle grinder. Otherwise, take the axle and bearing carriers out as one complete unit and then you can remove the bearings one at a time with a soft hammer, with the cassettes still on the bearings it gives you a good surface to strike on with your hammer. hope that helps and a let me know how you go.
Thanks for they quick reply! My son went in backwards into the barriers at 60 kph so we're talking more in the range of 6-7cm rather than mm 🙈. Have disassembled the axle from the chassi and will try to cut it tonight. Assume that one side without the bend will be easy to knock out but the other side will probably provide some grief. Assume heating up the bearing collar a little (while trying to cool the axle with a wet rag) will help to provide some more slack in the tolerances. Fingers crossed and I'll let you know how everything goes!
@@robertkamperin4382 just cut the axle in 2 places, just inside both bearings but leave enough so that you can remove the burred edge after cutting. This way the axle won't 'pick up' when being hammered through the bearings. You could heat it up but I think it won't be necessary.
@@PowerRepublic thanks, will give it a try tomorrow! On the "healthy" side I just had to tap it with a rubber hammer and it came off easily but on surprises on the other side, it was just simply stuck
I have bought a 2007 mod Rotax Max and it has 3 bearings on the axel. Is this necessary? I think I need to replace them aswell... It's only going to be used for training. BTW love your videos🙏
Hi Derek, I have a CRG KT1 chassis with a 125 Rotax Senior and have some questions about bearings and axle: 1) My kart chassis has the space to install 3 bearings, but only has 2. Does it make any difference if I install 3 bearings? 2) is there any difference between 50-80 and 50-90 bearings? 3) I believe my axle is medium. How do I know if I need to get an softer or harder axle? 4) Which model do you recommend? Thanks
Hi Armando, 1 - it will stiffen up the rear of the kart. if you are a big driver put it in, small driver you can leave it out. 2 - just the outside diameter. I think CRG are 90mm OD 3 - practise is the key. but get one off each and test them out in your kart at your track. generally softer keeps the rear wheels on the ground for longer, hard makes the inside rear lift earlier in the corner. Neither is a magic bullet for all conditions 4 - genuine axles are best IMO. We use OTK axles only in our Tony Kart. Hope that helps D