I just did the complete governor removal with the billet flywheel, 22 pound springs to prevent float/drop on the stock retainers, a bored/tuned carb and ARC flywheel. It definitely doesn't sound as loose. With epoxy on the magnet of the chicken bone stock flywheel I personally know dudes run 6k+ on stock cams with slide carbs and 7k with a welded cam. All on stock rods. When I mill the head I'm also polishing my crank and reshaping my rod.
Bullet Bikes Let me know if I can help with the cable linkage. I may do another video showing which cable I used, and how to set up a grip/thumb throttle using a bicycle front brake lever.
Very interesting. Cheating the system eh? I thought I could do the same thing. since I didn't want to get into the engine. I could just hold back the governor lever. But...What I'm hearing is if we leave the plastic gear inside the block, and then rev to higher RPM's I'm told there's a chance of that governor set up inside the block, coming apart. When it does...So does the motor! I've not heard of one breaking this way...is the only thing I have going for the cheating the system like you're talking about. But perhaps they have in the past and no one has mentioned it here on Utube. Of course, I've also heard there's a good chance the motor will come apart anyway, without a governor, regardless if running the engine at higher rpm for 60 second top end runs. 'm torn now on cheating the system using lever as you show, verses just pulling the plastic gear out of the motor and bolting the hole. What say?
Rick, I think it is nearly mythological. Yes, these are cheap engines, and running them wide open for long periods of time, past governed RPMs is likely to produce mechanical failure. But that is kind of the point of a cheap engine - modding them makes them four times as expensive and twice as likely to fail, so why not just get the most you can out of stock ones then throw them away? Sure, add a jet and intake, a header, get another horse. Beyond that, spending money on things like billet flywheels, better crank and rod bearings, higher pressure valve springs etc is a waste of money. I’ve been inside the crankcases - they are cheaply cast, I wouldn’t trust them for a lot of pressure and fire in them, they will hand grenade. And as far as that ring gear goes, the way it works is kind of like a centrifugal clutch, the ring has hinged traps in it that expand past a certain RPM and knock the governor rod, which closes your throttle. That is the full extent of the action. Relocating the throttle lets it keep operating, you feel it when it the thing hits around 5000rpms or so, dragging the engine back down off of top out and valve float. If the thing is tough enough to operate for a cpl yrs at 3600, it should hold out for a season or two of drifting at 5000 rpm bumps. Leaving it in prevents runaway, which you WILL get with it removed and a billet flywheel, which is why you have to start beefing the valve springs and other internals, and then the damned things won’t run well with a stock carb anymore. More trouble than a $99 engine is ever worth.
And for reference, if you do decide to crack the case, do it on a new engine or have a gasket set ready. “Bolting” the hole is by far the easiest part, but that is an incomplete removal. The ring gear should be drilled out from the back, behind the plastic fan blade,and that hole also must be sealed. There are no carrier bearings on the inside of the case by the way, the cam shaft just slops around a race with no bearing. For drifting we overfill them w oil to keep them from running too dry on one side.
@@MrCbell57 Good luck, have fun. I did one governor removal, once. I swore I would never bother again. This one runs just as well, and probably won’t over-rev on me like the last one did.
The 79cc only works because this is a gravity frame, very light compared to a full framed gasser, and I have a Gamechanger front hub that allows me to help pedal it off the line and up steep hills. Gearing is critical, only a small range of effective use. It tops out about 35mph and doesn’t even need black HDPE for better traction, drifting is done with momentum not power in this application. If you are planning a full-sized frame build, go with the 212. 79cc is 24lbs dry, the 212 is something like 38lbs dry. More bang for the buck.
I’ve run this one now for over a hundred hours for two seasons. It still runs just as good as ever. Who cares if a $100 engine blows up after a few years, even if it ever does? You want to go expensive, buy and build a decent brand name to start with. Anyone who invests in Harbor Freight junk will get what they paid for.
I’m happy to help, if I can. What kind of problems are you having? This video does not explain how to run a throttle cable TO this linkage, maybe that is where you’ve run into trouble?
