thx for the help And i've a question I've been google-ing some turbos of different brands of cars, but i can't find pics because when i writte "Turbo [Brand of the car]" they show me cars isntead of fucking turbos And all the turbos i've seen looks the same So my question is if all the turbos are the same
They all do the same thing in general. But there are differences in size. Power output. Journal or ball bearing. Different types exhaust houses and inlets for stock turbo's and Then there are the standard turbos that can be used with any vehicle just with modifications needed to the car to make them work.
Hey there , I just rebuilt my vf39 all new bearings and clips , it’s a little more stiff to spin but is this because I tightened the compressor wheel but to much or did not drench the bearings in enough lube ? Lol
Hi can anyone tell me what could be the problem with my bmw 316d es 2011, i can drive it for a bit and its fine, but when its hot, its chucking out loads of blue/white smock know loss of power but the smock can be really bad at times, could it be the turbo, thanks
Please some one help me its my first experience with turbo i put turbo on 2002 accord all fits fine and good fuel pump and injectors are standard size wastegate set to 6 psi now the problem is turbo works fine and engine getting good rpm when in no load but when drive on road engine not running at all too sluggish rpm not increasing when let foot off from gas padel engine get rpm but when try to add more gas engine dead and rpm won't go up
If there's a little bit of scoring on the housing, is it ok to replace the bearings or even the whole CHRA? Is it imperative that the housing be machined or replaced?
Woody Ridenour, "a bit" is subjective. if the blades are touching the housing, they are damaged. If they are damaged, the entire CHRA should be replaced.
Good explanation but in my opinion used turbos are a false economy as others have stated. This video would be better to show people signs of wear in a turbo but informative nonetheless just like your other vids.
junkyard turbo is like $35 if you do all the work yourself why not send it? my yard has a 30 day return. and even in the yard you can run through this list quickly with a flashlight and...your hands! your a false economy.....the only one
vevohoeyo you are clearly uneducated.. Many turbos have play like that due to the shaft 'floating' on a film of oil when running. Its in and out play thats a big issue.
what symptoms are they zif the impellers etc are touching the sides?? my audi diesel 130bhp is sluggish and only feel the turbo boost after 2k revs especially in low gears / revs. I've spend £100 ' s going from one mechanic to another - MAP / MAF / presume sensor/ ECU all changed with no result - driven many VAG cars and they seems to noticeable accelerate from 1400/ 1600 revs
1.9tdi stock turbo doesnt spool up until around 2k revs. If you want it to spool faster you need to burn fuel. It is possible to bypass the maf sensor with bv21 diode and make it puff a little smoke on lower rpm so the burning material spools the turbo faster.
@@Dtp2296 My E46 320D 150HP version has that kind of problem, it only boost at 3500rpm or so, I'm gonna give a try and see if it is stuck vnt or broken turbo.
that turbo is leaking oil and shoud not go on a car bin it i have bot meny for my saab of ebay and thy all there ok but wen you pot them on thy leak oill it shoud be no play at all and no oil driping out . you can pay 90 to 200 a turbo thats a lot wen you have to 4 or 5 turbo s tull you get a good one
Turbos seem like a great idea until you realize they're best left on racing cars. A few mm out of spec and your engine is hoovering down metal shavings. Not so cool. Shame really.
