Hope I don't have timing issue, but this video made me think about it while I'm doing a tuneup this weekend, now I'll at least have an option to think about if things are not how I hope they'll be after my plans are done! Thanks for your efforts, breaking in a novice who completely forgot to consider high mileage timing issue potential.
I have a 96 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 Vortex, I learned some years ago that these engines don't just use a timing light for the timing to be set at its best. A Scan Tool or Laptop with GM add on Program is used. One person will keep the RPMs at 1,000 to 1,200 while turning distributor and the other person looks at the Scan Tool or Laptop and when the reading is between +0 and -2 the on board Computer will adjust it where it wants it to be from there.
@duanescarpad2831 I'm old school also, I went to a couple of mechanic shops and they say, oh yeah we have a Timing light and I just have to leave. When in the range of +0 and-2 you get better fuel mileage and more engin power.
Yea thats why I just do it the old fashioned way even though I don't have a timing light myself I just make sure the timing marks are lined up to top center and turn the distributor close as I can then start it up and mess with it til she runs nice
In my limited experience (and a great deal of research), it seems that P1345 happens when the timing chain has streched and the timing set needs to be replaced.
Thanks Duane - I gave an issue on a '97 Silverado with the same engine that has a crank no start issue. Ironically it is only when there is humidity in the air, it does not have to rain. Im going to look in the area of the distributor I think it has weak spark - checking today.
@@duanescarpad2831 Hmm seems like it has good spark replaced the coil (was original) even better spark - it just does not seem like it wants to squirt fuel
Could be gas related my pump stopped working on the highway last fall 100 miles from home doing 70 miles on hour and nothing it was humming really loud for awhile
@@duanescarpad2831 its strange, I replaced the pump and filter - it is priming and has proper pressure. I can manually turn it on by using powering the pump manually. When I do it I hear the full draining back to the tank through the fuel rail. It also has spark. Its like the injectors are not firing. I drove the truck around the place and it died in the driveway. So I'm trying to figure out about the injectors. Or check them somehow - been scouring YT for info 🙂
I have not had that kinda problem yet but the gas should not be draining back on its own it should hold the pressure that could be a leak in the lines which you would smell or possibly the fuel pressure regular might be going bad and not holding the pressure
I had guy buy my 98 sierra with same motor it was doing tune up you know plugs wires. And distributor well he did not TDC it and just stabbed the new one in without marking the rotor on which one it went so he bought it to me. In order to get it back in time. Do I just line marks up to top dead center and put the distributor in with rotor striker mark facing to cylinder1
@@duanescarpad2831 yeah that’s what I’m trying to figure out. If I pull the new distributor out. Get the lines on the mark lines up on the balancer to where number one is TDC then stabbed the distributor back in and get the rotor button line up to where it pointing to number one. Because he told me when he pulled the old distributor he did not line the marks up nor have it TDC
I have 1998 chevy Silverado 5.7 vortec on these engines you can not use timing light nor turn and guess. The timing must be set by computer you have to go into cam retard have one person under hood turn distributor and other person in the vehicle reading the computer and holding your rpms at a 1000. You want timing set at 0 degrees are it want run right. I been doing this 25 years now this is only way to do timing on these vortec engines. Hope this helps someone out
about the time you commented this , I bought a new one hoping to get rid of the shaking at light throttle and rough idle but it didn’t, spent 2200$ after install and still runs like poop. still to this day I’m trying to track it down but it’s the most problematic vehicle I’ve ever owned
No just turn it a little bit one way or the other til the code stays away if it comes back you don't need to lift it up unless you are pulling it out to change it out it just takes a little adjustment to make a difference
@@duanescarpad2831 Ok... I do get the p1345 code you spoke on. I will try to change it out. I guess it would be wise to take cap off to check the position of rotor button on new distributor.Thanks so much. Great video !!!
Thanks I try to stick as much info in as I can and sometimes the distributor will get loose with age and move around in the hole and mess up the reading but what I did was turn it a bit til the code stopped come on
All you did was set a basic timing, Those are basic timing marks on the balancer/ block for top dead center that does not tell you if the distributor is at 0°, it is all done electronically. In order to tell FOR SURE if your timing is on point at 0° you need a scan tool that can read the cam retard this does nothing to make sure it's actually at 0 °. Secondly the distributor bolt is not how you adjust the distrib on these trucks, that is the bolt to hold the distributor down so it doesn't move. Thirdly the top of the cap/ rotor moves not the whole thing, adjust the top until the cam retard reads 0° and that is how your correctly time these 350 vortecs .
Not every one has access to a scan tool that's why I did this video this was not a in depth how to video like some of mine are just a quick way to make sure that timing was ok find TDC and check all the makes and things thank you
Dude I had to pull over the information you gave on setting the timing on the Vortech was absolutely incorrect the distributor Hass to be on the perfect year the timing sets itself and you need to use some type of code reader to be between 20 and 32° of cam retard you don’t set the timing on the Vortech it sets itself you could be a tooth off there’s a proper procedure and lining up the rotor on the distributor which actually gives you a little bit of turn back so when you drop it in it’s in the right spot there’s too much you have to do this correctly where you will get that camera third code every time I’m sorry to say but this is bad advice watch a different video on setting up the correct timing on a Vortech and you’ll see I’ve seen guys try to do this for five hours and not figure it out very simple CMP retard should be at 1820 22 or that light will go on every time
Anything with a flat cap there’s only one distributor you can put in the engine and it’s the GM flat cap that’s it it’s a garbage piece of plastic the distributor caps are absolutely worthless the only ones that work on the Msd ones will last for a while but they’re over 100 bucks the GM one sucks for Sierra one sucks
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heres the thing Im seeing after replacing this paticular distributor. If you just walk up pop the hood and remove the distributor without worrying about TDC, there is only 2 ways for the thing to drop in there and bolt down. One Right way and one wrong way. All this talking and discussing is over thinking things Very Very much so! The top of the distrutor does not turn independently from the bottom of the distributor. Take the cap off and look how its positioned. Get your new distribtor and turn it to that position and drop it in. Thats it!
Well i don't no what to tell you only what I know but I said nothing about pulling the distributor just turning it to the left or right to adjust it if you loosen the bolt that holds the distributor in it will move a little each way to allow you to adjust it alittle I was just explaining a way to check and adjust the timing to get the cam crank corilion engine code that was the point of the video
To find compression stroke all you need to do is pull #1 plug and stuff a piece of toilet paper in hole turn engine over until paper pops out then line up your marks on timing cover and balancer.
Why do people make videos and talk so much about things unrelated to the subject. Who cares why you're doing the video. Or the weather. And back off with the camera so we can see where to look before closing in on the close ups.
All I can say to people like you who just troll video trying to make other people look or feel bad when they are doing their best to help someone else its you assholes who probably never pick up a wrench or no the first thing about how cars work that discourage other people who no what their doing and try to help people when they can I am a mechanic of over 30 years who was answering a question that someone had just because I was forced to retire do to my cancer doesn't mean I forgot all my years of work so you can say what ever you want just remember no what your talking about befor you put your foot in your ass thank you for your looser attitude good by
@@duanescarpad2831 @duanescarpad2831 No, it's people like me that are shade tree mechanics and have been since I was a teen in the 60s, who needed quick information on a vehicle I've never worked on before, played your video because it met the search criteria in its tags and title but not in its content. I'm not a troll. I honestly needed info and I'm really tired of videos that do not provide quick answers because the creator rambles about unrelated topics. If you, as you say, are trying to help people, then take what I wrote as constructive criticism to try to improve your product instead of getting butt sore because you feel insulted that your product is criticized. And, truly, your camera work needs improvement. At least in this video it does. Maybe your other videos are better. I don't know, I haven't watched them, only this one because it met my search criteria. But I will never find out because I will add your channel to the list of those I don't want RU-vid to recommend. Oh yeah. You want to avoid having people put your channel on the Do Not Recommend list. It doesn't help your ratings.
OK I do make these videos for the little guy to help I didn't start talking about why I miss my weekly upload til the end or the weather. And I truly apologize for calling you a troller I have had a few that were and they totally tried to rip my videos apart. So bad that I had to get out my manual and do a video showing them that what I did was ok. I am sorry that I treated you badly I try to make my videos as user friendly as I can and my old camera my have had a hard time focusing with all the hoses and wires. My one may still have a problem with that small of a space. So I hope you accept my apology and watch my videos if the are important to something you are working on. If not it's ok to see I don't get paid by utube for my videos I am not in it for money or subscription I just try to help the little guy as best I can. Watch if you want or don't makes no difference to me. Most of me videos are full of information of the work being done thank you have a better day.
Checking through a spark plug hole only tells you if you have a bent connecting rod Jesus Christ man I love good advice and I’m sure you give it out but this is bad advice sorry guys all of the Mercruiser‘s all of the Volvos for boat engines are all these Flatgap design I’ve done 1 million of them this is improper directions
