You are one hell of a straight forward and honest human being who wants to help from his heart with no Frills and bull let alone that wealth of experience not many have .Good man,I wish you all prosperity with whatever you desire .. AMEN
Great info on how to test mounts. I’d never seen that done before. I do all of my own work, except my wife’s car is still under warranty and I had to diagnose the driver side lower motor mount myself, they tried 3 times to find it. I told my wife that’s why I work on ALL my own equipment and have people like yourself to teach what I don’t know. One of my 3 favorite sayings is: (You don’t have to know everything but surround yourself with people that do!) Thanks
No throttle required. Love the approach from a different angle! Some said Albert Einstein's ideas started at the end and worked toward the beginning, opposite to everyone else. Thanks for the new trick/tool in my bag!
Hello Matt, warm wishes from Scotland. Thank you for posting your videos, they are an invaluable help to me with my work. My watch later box is full of your posts. Keep up the great work.
This is the exact thing that happened to my LS460. I would brake sharply and it would clunk. Then at hwy speeds when I would try to pass someone, it would shift hard, but only when it would downshift to pass another car. Replaced the trans mount and all symptoms were gone. Good informative video.
I truly appreciate you sharing your automotive "wisdom" with the class...You honor our "Creator" and the people you care about by helping others through your teachings...How many smart ass, stupid comment writing "lesser-minded" beings can do the same? None...The only thing they have to share is "negative energy"...And who needs anymore of that?
Not sure if I am too late for a response however I have a 06 f150 with sadly a 5.4 3v. I have this problem when I left off the gas at high way speeds 60mph+ I feel like there is a slight pull back and a clank. However when lightly letting off gas it doesn’t do it only with a sudden release.
I am not a mechanic, I am on here because I paid for clutch replacement that was done poorly. This video makes it clear how to diagnose bad motor mount using a two method technique.
I just watched your troll vids. Hahaha. My new favorite channel! Also, thank you for the auto education. I have learned so much already. Been new sub for three days. Now I have a lot to go watch!
Schrodingers Box haha ok I won’t. Your Evap video and voltage drop AND your fuel trim video was really the most helpful and profoundly educational videos I’ve watched. By the way, I’ve seen all of south main autos, Scotty’s and Eric’s videos and your videos helped me truly get it, FINALLY! Thank you so much. Trying to find your paid channel, how do I find it?
Great technique! But I must add, most videos on RU-vid have you power brake, not just go from drive to reverse. Power braking is also a great method, as ís yours Thanks for the content.
Hello, I hear a clunk when I switch from N to Drive, in my Audi A6, especially after the first startup in the morning, or after parking my car for a few hours, and it disappears while driving, would it be the transmission mounts? thank you.
These are great videos. Thanks for sharing the behind the curtains diagnosis. I watch you from Bogota in Colombia... how could I set up the access account you mentioned?
What do you think about putting a floor jack under the engine, and just slightly taking some weight off of the mounts. Then, if the worn mounts are not under load, see if clunking goes away? That was my way of diagnosing.
Wow I like your video very detailed thank you, now my question to you is I have a 2012 Camry 2.5l mine does exactly as you describe/ show on the video so do you this it’s the front mount? Thank you
So I'm having an issue when I place my car on reverse. My car shakes a lot but stops shaking after I drive in reverse. My car doesn't shift from drive to reverse smoothly. What could potentially be the cause of it?
I got the Trans Am to pass emissions -- turns out rotted rubber hoses on the evap line were leaking HC and being picked up by the sniffers at the emissions facility, causing a false positive. I'm happy! Thanks for all your videos, Matt. I've learned a lot.
Yeah we had a "restructuring" at my job- caused me to have to focus for a few weeks on reconstructing things. Sorry about that! Hopefully have more videos during the holidays when it slows down!
@@SchrodingersBox Good to hear that! I learn a lot from your videos, not only the scientific aspect but also the way you approach a definitive diagnosis.
wierd now this makes me wonder that the clunk that I have when I brake on low speeds usually on on the first 3 gears could be from the transmission mount??
Nice video bud think I have the same issue have to take it into the shop tomorrow my truck does this jerk when stop at a light and go to take off think it’s a mount now
I thought you quit making vids (almost a year) but here i stumbled upon this somewhat recent one. RU-vid must have turned off the "bell" because i know I used to get notifications and didn't turn it off myself.
Im having the same issue with a fwd mazda cx-7, clunk from initial acceleration. I’ve lifted the car up but the clunk is not audible when off the ground. Ball joints, sway link and bushings are all newer due to a recall early this year. What else could it be? My mechanic and I cannot find it.
This is awesome! I think this is my problem, I thought it was my transmission. I would have a kick or clunk when it would change from 1st to 2nd gear and when I’d slow down to stop I’d feel a kick again but not everytime. Hopefully it’s my engine mounts.
Hi i just replaced front and passenger side motor mounts.(2005 altima)..still have vibration when sitting at a light....when i put in neutral or park it stops... only notice it when stopped not when driving>>> does this sound like a bad transmission mount to you??? i am pretty sure so i have one ordered... thanks for this informative video...
could be engine rough idle. I always start with a basic fuel trim analysis to rule that out before I even consider mounts since it’s so fast and simple.
Love your channel man, just subscribed. Lots to learn here and I'm still stumped on an issue I'm having with my 2000 Dodge Caravan Sport 3.3 It all started with my lights flickering. Next day the battery light come on and van loses all power. Had the alternator tested at 2 locations. Tested fine several times at both places, so I reinstall the alt and charged up battery. Van runs good for 2 days then the following morning dead battery. So I take the battery to F and F for testing and confirm defective battery. Installed new battery and the van runs excellent for a day and half, then guess what battery light is back on. Any tips, pointers, advice where to start would be awesome.
What would cause a loud clunk when I put my 94 ranger automatic 2wd 3.0 in gear It does it forward and reverse , its a pretty loud bang Any advice would be appreciated
This a awsome channel some others as well , recently found this after trying to find out what a few not machanic messed up on , 5 cars plus I think . Anyway I wish they found people like yourself and some others to that I have subscribe to . I quit this kinda work when it became work 1979 to 2002+- today . I wanted to find a good place to ask a question about a read out on a BMW just what direction someone like you might go with it , its BMW but could be anything well almost, it's now a loss, to owner , I may not ever touch it again and really after what was done to it by others I should not have touched it or done the whole job in the first place . I did not have time and that's odd I always have that. Even if not yourself I see some others who comment on here have there channels to that are very very good , me it's hard for me to say I'm good but I'm goodish . And poor not many tools left in a box no real diagnostic tools none now that test light ran off . So anyone want to look at a read out?
Sorry life side tracked me me from sharing the read out I was talking about I have it if your interested in taking a look at it , Ican take a pic of it. Or tap it in here . By the way Im done with even doing a thing about this , Im just curious.
Is it fine to replace the 1 bad mount or change all of them? My theory is if I have 140k miles the others are possibly going to go and if I lift the engine to replace 1 why go through the process 3 more times. Your thoughts
oh hell yeah - no doubt. It would be stupid not too. First- as you said, the labor is mostly the same. Second- the other mounts are same age as the failed one(s), and third, if a mount fails the other ones are stressed more because they carry the load so there is every reason to suspect they have excessive wear.
I'm getting my engine mounts repaired and changing air filter this week. I haven't experienced any clunks, but it has been vibrating pretty bad when it's Idle and it just feels dodgy. Afraid to drive my car atm. Probably get it towed for safety reasons.
My Ford F150 4.2 L V6 has code p0303 . I changed spark plugs- it has 53000 miles. It has motorcraft nickel spark plugs. How do they expect it to last 90000 as the maintenance schedule suggests? I thought these plugs only last 20000 miles. I expected it to have platinum or Iridium. I was the original owner so no one touched these plugs.
Wow. Great tip video. Watching this because im suspecting mine on the gearbox side to be shot. One question, can it cause vibrations when a break before car comes to stand still?
yes absolutely bad mounts can cause excessive vibration especially at idle or allow torque conditions. Very very common. And yes - I recommend replacing them all. First, they are all the same age but more importantly- the remaining mounts are strained far more covering for the bad mount so they will have even more wear.
@@SchrodingersBox so i removed my airbox, there i can see the mount, stuck a screwdriver in, very little effort i can wedge the gearbox side of the mount around. That ill take as a shot engine mount
I have replaced both motor mounts on my 2013 GMC Yukon XL for the second time in a month and it is still making the same noise. Is there any other mount I need to change or something I’m missing? Thanks plz respond
I have a 2007 diesel ford fiesta manual shift, front wheel drive. When I change gears either up or down and when I accelerate or decelerate I hear a thud. As the car cruises this thud is not felt. This car had a single broken trans mount which I replaced, and the problem still persists. Any ideas on what other components can cause this thud?
Is there a difference between a bad transmission mount and motor mount as far as symptoms go? I have tried like crazy to find out why my car has a slight shake to it at idle that I mainly feel in PARK/NEUTRAL. In gear idling it actually seems to go away. Fuel trims are perfect short term and a little lean long term and I don't get any change in rpms when I feel the shake so I'm thinking it doesn't have anything to do with engine performance and more likely is a mount. I just always thought that mounts are more of a constant vibration versus this intermittent shaking/shudder feel that I get.
Hey bro let me ask you something i have a similar problems with my 2010 acura mdx. The car doesnt cluck but when i take off i feel like a little push in the transmission but the transmission shift great do you think it may be the front and rear motor mounts ?
Ah i take it to the mechanic and they make a little test like hold the brake pedal and put the car in drive and push the gas and the engine rise up when they do that in reverse too but the engine move more in drive . The mechanic told me the motor mounts was bad but not that bad but the thing is when i start to drive the vehicle i feel a little push in the engine from 1st to 2nd gear .
Hey i have a benz W203 kompressor C230 and everytime i break until to standstill i get a strong clucking noise would this be a mounting problem????? thanks in advance
Can the rear transmission mount on a transverse engine vehicle cause what feels like someone bumped the rear end and somewhat of a clunk when shifting from park to reverse?
So I definitely have at least one bad mount but I don’t know if that’s my only problem. I don’t have any clunking when I push the brake but I have a pretty big clunk when I let off of the brake. Could that also be from the motor mount?
Its not a great idea to do it for too long. If the mount is broken the pitch of the transmission can change which stresses the driveshafts quite a bit more. Its not like the car will blow up but other damage can result over time.
Just starting to have vibration during acceleration but and when turning to the right during acceleration. Not a mechanic at all but starting to try to fix this and liked your simple possible explanation of the reason maybe. You still doing videos? Have a Juke 2015 with 115,000 roughly miles on it.
I usually "stall" the car. By pressing the brake firmly and adding enough throttle to tweak things. (This is while car is on the ground) that and drive to reverse with the addition of the brake stall. Also just briefly snapping (hit somewhat firmly but only briefly) the brake while rolling forward is it good way to spot control arm bushings. I can just feel it but you can feel the front slopping around or have someone watch it if possible in a pit ideally.
Hello I was curious if possibly one of my the 4 mounts on my car was bad including the transmission or motor mount cause when I accelerate after first starting the car or taking off a stop sign/light. My 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 rides good until past 19/20 mp then jerks for some weird reason and just started about 2 months or so ago.
Schrodingers Box I’m confused what you are saying/asking. I’m staying a fact that my car does jerk when I accelerate around 20 mph and am asking that based on your video here do you feel like the motor or transmission mount can be the possible reason for that??
The mechanic revs the engine on neutral I believe and while standing in front of the van with a top view of the engine, I can see the engine tip downward a bit towards me everytime he rev'd it. So the engine shouldn't move at all ? Not even a bit ? thx
Hello sir.. i have a same car and i want to know how many mounting are there in this car? For the engine and gear box? Plz reply me sir..id really appreciate ur feedback
I have what I would best describe as an intense grinding/vibration when accelarating from a stop in my car. It generally happens when I have to gas it pretty hard to turn onto a highway. There's also certain RPMS where the cabin vibration gets worse, like 2500. I'm pretty sure it's a motor mount, but i don't think it's developed enough to have a mechanic diagnose the specific mount.
@@SchrodingersBox That sounds like it'd be the cause of what I'm dealing with now, thank you. I will bring it up with my mechanic, as I will be scheduling an appointment week after next.
I have a 2007 Mustang GT with a manual transmission. I suspect that I have a bad motor or trans mount, the problem that I’m having is when I’m shifting gears at low RPM’s it makes a CLUNK noise. Or if I am in first gear and Tap the gas and immediately let off I hear and slightly feel it. With it being a manual transmission how can I check to see exactly what it is considering I cannot do the brake check on it
Hey I was wondering if you could help me I have a 92 Chevy Blazer I have my transmission replaced the guy said my transmission keep going out cuz my 4 by 4 bill is broke and it's leaning on my transmission can you explain that to me or tell me what do I need
Yes that explanation makes sense. If you have any misalignment of the driveline- broken mounts, broken or bent axles, anything where the axles, driveshafts and engine/transmission are out of alignment then it puts extreme stress on the transmission. You can often see this happen with vehicles that have been lifted like trucks and jeeps- if the lift kit is not done correctly then things will be out of alignment. This causes early failure of components. I would heed the mechanics advice that something is out of alignment causing premature wear.
Hello i have problem in my nissan qashqai when you release the clutch there a banging what should be the problem with this and the shifting lever is moving when i realese the clutch as well
You can ask somebody to assist you.Just lift up the hood/bonnet and observe if the engine is moving when you sharply move the vehicle and apply the brakes few times.
I found all of these presentations very instructional I do have a question for everyone out of curiosity I pulled my ohm-meter and measured my new spark plugs, as it's time to pull the old one's out. they measured as follows: 4.94, 5.45, 6.44, 5.73 @ the setting of 20K ( they avg out to 5.64 ohms) is it normal to have such variations? What would be considered normal? as for continuity, I got no response no matter where I probed... after I pull the old ones, I'll perform the same test on them to see what happens. I'm guessing the old one's will have higher to nearly off the scale resistance. What is the expert answer?
Due to a battery acid issue, I had to replace my transmission at 20k miles. The new transmission (same year used with 14k miles) has been working great, except recently at 25k miles I hear a pop the first time I reverse. The van is still under factory powertrain warranty. A tire shop is saying my issue is transmission mounts. How is this possible at 25k miles? Is it possible to damage transmission mounts from off-roading? damaged from Acid?
Lots of things could cause that besides the things you mentioned. other loose mounts or suspension components, misalignments, poor quality parts and incorrect installation (eg missing heat shields etc) all can cause premature failure.
@@SchrodingersBox Thanks. Im skeptical it's the transmission mount. It only happens when the van has been parked for a while and is first driven out. It's a single pop like a nuckle or bearing pop. The van was stuck in deep sand about a month ago and it made the noise trying to get out and i think that is when the damage occured, and then the issue surfaced the following week. My thinking is the transfer case or something in my CV joints.
