Great video! A lot of people don't pay attention to PH. I didn't for a long time, and I work with plants for a living. I'm in central Texas. The soil is generally around a PH of 8 here (in the blackland prairie). Compost over years might get it to 7.2 to 7.5. I'm probably going to start doing light applications of elemental sulfur for vegetables, making a slight reduction in PH each year.
Thank you! Its such an easy thing to overlook. It's great that you've got a plan to treat the soil, it's interesting to hear what conditions are like around the world!
I live in DFW... finding out microrizal fungi & aerobic bacteria are more important.. healthy microbes enable plants to grow in soil ph out of their ph level
Thanks man...this was an informative and straight to the point video. I have a question though: if you took a sample of the same soil but just deeper down or a slightly different area, will the ph come out the same as your first test? Or will it be different/change?
In very old soil built up from decomposition of leaves, grass, etc it is unlikely that the pH is much different. My soil is as described (loads of old composted and fairly dense with some rocks) I have pH tested the entire yard and all the soils I have tilled up and checked all areas, and they are all about 6.9 - 7.1 even as deep as 12-16". I think if you have an area that tests 6.5 then the balance of the area should test the same. The exception would be if you have hauled in additives like manure, potting soil, chemical fertilizers, mulch etc. Those might cause changes in pH.
It absolutely changes with depth and location. Samples should be taken in actual soil zone , removing any obvious organic contamination (roots, compost). It should be at a depth midway into your root zone--several inches below the roots of a lawn. 12-16" below the drip edge of a tree. Any area where soil changes, was brought in, moved, or amended on your property must me tested separately (front lawn vs back lawn perhaps; garden; landscaped area; etc) Take numerous samples around each area, mix them together for that area, and test a portion of the mixed sample. Do the same in the next area.That will give you an average soil condition for the various areas.
The exact ratio of soil to water matters. The exact amount of time where the soil sits in the water matters. The temperature of the soil and the water matters. You're ignoring many important variables my friend!
I was wondering the same. How much water would add to this amount of soil for the testing. How long would you leave it sitting before taking the PH test?
Standard technique calls for 1:1 slurry (by weight, not volume), stir 30 minutes, slake for 1 hour, measure with a NIST, 2-point, calibrated, temperature compensated meter. That is as close to lab results as you can get. Alternately, mix 50:50 by volume, shake the crap out of it for a few minutes, let is rest 1 hour at room temperature before measuring it with a cheap meter calibrated at least at one point. If not accurate, even the latter will give you consistent results to see if your program is moving the pH.
Great video, informative. Thanks! Would the time you let it sit in the water matter much? Not sure if its been mentioned, but make sure the meter is calibrated 👍🏼
Distilled water has no buffer at all. This make this kind of water very reactive (or won't impact pH). If you put a drop of acid or base, the distilled water will change drastically. However, a buffered soil (or buffered water solution) will not change much, even if you put a drop of acid/base. Some buffer are stronger/more concentrated, but distilled water won't influence the value that much. Analytical chemistry guy here!
Great video thank you, excuse me but i got a totally beginner question, after using the digital meter, is rinsing it with distilled water enough to clean it? Will it be damaged over time with this method based on your experience?
Most informative content for a soil PH knowledge! I'm an exporter of cocopeat from Indonesia. We have a neutral (pH 5,0-6,8). If you want to know further information, i"ll be so welcome to help you!
Hi. Im doing anaerobic composting. And i have to monitor ph.. Can anyone suggest what meter to use, or hpw can I do so considering anaerobic set up? Thank you
This doesn't look like legitimate measurement. You need to be consistent with quantity of water and soil just to have tracking of relative pH change overtime, but obtaining absolute value of soil pH with this method doesn't seem possible to me.
Hi Boris, I think if I were to do this again I would have been more precise and consistent with the water measurement in terms of running multiple tests. I should have taken a homogeneous sample for complete accuracy.
@@GrowIt, in addition to proper measurements (which should be 1 part soil to 2 parts water), you need to stir the water/soil mixture really well, and let it sit at least 15 minutes to allow the soil content to absorb into the water. Then stir it again and test it.
@@Matilda52 This is not a ""precise way to measure soil pH, but if you use the same water dilution and soak it for the exact same amount of time it will give you a "consistent" measurement. You will know if your soil is changing over time. I allow 1 hour for all the minerals to leach into the water. This is INFINITELY more accurate than the "soil pH meter" that you jab into the ground. They are worthless, and highly dependent on the ever-changing moisture content of the ground.
Thanks I'm glad it's helpful! These are just as good for checking your soil pH, it's just a slightly more long winded process having to mix it with water first. I prefer doing it this way!
I think buying a high quality ph meter like shown in the video is your best one time purchase… if they make a combo type with a TDS meter option you’d be set (if you are tracking fertilizers)…
Isn't using this type meter and adding two to three times the water by weight to liquefy the soil sample always skew my test result toward neutral as the PH of distilled water is neutral? If I'm working for a PH near neutral then no problem, but if I'm trying to get the acidity right for blueberry plants I would likely overshoot my desired acidity using this method as the water is going to be giving me a false reading.
@@GrowIt - Thanks, I have been watering with tap water with pH of 8.1, so I use pH down to lower it to 6.1 to 6.5 but I recently did a pH test of my soil and it's reading 8.1! So clearly my tap water is highly alkaline. What can I do? How can I quickly lower my soil alkalinity?
Hi! I think while the acidic water will temporarily bring the pH down it might not have a long term effect on the soil once it passes through or evaporates. It might be worth adding ericaceous compost to add some acidic matter to the mix.
@@spatt833 Lowering soil pH is an ongoing process. Using pH down is fast, but very temporary. Google use of aluminum sulfate or iron sulfate. Also fast, and a bit longer lasting. Elemental sulfur is the classic product--takes 3 or more months to break down into soluble form, but lasts longest. Getting them deep into the soil with topdressing is minimally effective. Iron sulfate and sulfur mix and poured into properly spaced holes around drip lines of trees and shrubs will last several seasons. It will lower pH near the holes and free up enough various nutrients (esp iron) to make your plants happy. Google is your friend for details. CANADIAN peat moss (very acidic) worked in lightly also provides some longer lasting effects. Standard peat is rather neutral.
@@GrowIt Thank you so much sir! Can I ask last question? Uh, aside from applying organic material, is there exact lime material that also amend high clay soil? 🙂
You can use a lime soil improver, they work by helping the clay stick together in lumps to make it easier to remove by digging it out. They will increase the pH of the soil too though so it takes a bit of care.
Hello I have a pH meter like in your video thumbnail(yellow)..mine is 000 but when I stick it in to anything it keeps running and doesn't stop, any ideas?? I purchased it on eBay
Hi Arran, mine came with the packs for calibrating the meter. They only make solution to do it once anyway, I bought bottles of pre made stuff after the first time.
If it’s ready made stuff I think you might not need any, if it’s powders you would get the best result mixed with distilled or deionised water. Distilled water alone doesn’t actually work very well with pH meters as it’s measuring ions, which aren’t there in pure water. It’s ideal for making the calibration solutions though as it won’t add any ions to the pre-measured dose providing a more accurate reading. If you’re stuck for deionised water, Amazon do 5 litre bottles for £2.50. I’ve used them for hydroponics in the past they’re good as a back up! These are the ones: amzn.to/3OqrtYr Hope all that helps!
Hi everyone, I need some help if anyone had any guidance. I’m getting into growing fruits and eventually will do veg. So iv got a blueberry bush which has thrived and got the blueberry’s on but there small and pink so no where near ready (bought the whole plant from Dobbies) Blackberry bush which is a pruned plant that was also bought from dobbies so I’m not sure what soil or anything is in it. Is there anything I need to do to keep these healthy and growing, Iv got compost, I will check the name of it when I get home. Iv got some all purpose plant food also which I’ll put the name off in as well. Im gonna try and get a raised bed made or bigger raised barrels that they can go in ect. Iv been watering them from tap but I know that raises the alkaline which is not what I want and I’m unsure what to do to keep it low as those fruits need it acidic. Any advice or guidance would really help.
Hello! You’re right about the blueberry needing acidic soil to grow well, you can get ericaceous versions of compost and plant food which will maintain the low pH for your plant. Home Bargains garden centres have them for quite cheap, I think it just says Ericaceous Compost in big letters on the bag! If you use planters it’s best to make a soil/compost mix as compost loses its structure and compresses as it continues to break down, which damages the roots if there’s no soil for structure. Other than that a weekly feed with ericaceous plant food should do it!
@@GrowIt thank you so much for replying! erm... im thinking of buying some ericaceous compost and re planting my blueberry bush in another pot. so shall i do half normal soil and half acidic compost? does it matter how much of what. iv got loads pine needles which should help as well for mulch. my strawberries that im trying to grow from seeds, some are sprouting and dont seem to be getting any bigger so i may try again with those as i never covered them to keep the moisture in which would of helped them sprout. anymore advice I'm incredibly grateful for!!
No problem, that should do it! I think maybe 2 parts soil to 1 compost might be best. With your strawberries try a high phosphorus feed like tomato food.
Sorry just realised you meant strawberry seedlings! I haven’t tried growing them from seed, but loads of light in a warm and humid environment can help seedlings develop if they’re struggling. Maybe like a big see through tub with the lid slightly open and a wet cloth in. Just watch it doesn’t get too hot in there.
Do you PH down the water before putttin in soil?? Or just water that’s been in air stones? My water out the hose is like 8.5. Do I ph down the water to 6.5 and put it in soil then???? Or what
Hi it's best to use deionised or distilled water if you can find it. That is pH7 with no ions so acts like a blank slate, when you add your soil the meter will measure the ion content of the soil giving you the pH of the soil. Unfortunately using pH down won't have the same effect as it's more about the purity when testing a mixed in sample. There's also meters that you can stick straight in the soil if they're easier to find at your location.
I bought a kit with a ph pen, pretty sure its not accurat so I bought drops. The pen at least was close to 6.86 with the buffer, but even after callinrating it the 4.0 buffer was around 8ph and the 9.81 buffer read 5ph . So yeah beware people, you get what you pay for. So splurge if you can, especially if you have very ph specific plants that only have a ph diffrence of 1 ph before theyll just die. 😂
A pH meter is not a complex piece of equipment, so you should not have to spend a fortune. Research reviews before you buy and make sure you can adjust the calibration (not all are adjustable). Keep in mind this method is not going to give you lab results anyways. If you have expensive plants that will die with 1pH difference (most have a MUCH more tolerant range), you need to send your soil to a lab! Keep the dilution rate and the soak time the same and it will be relatively "consistent "over time, but not necessarily "accurate".
Hello, can someone please answer me a question?Could I use any solution that has neutral ph or would the solution of a tap/ water and some ph down be bad for the test? It doesn't seem right but I really don't know the reason why. So if anyone could elaborate it would be much appreciated. Also i appreciate the video, very informative!