After watching you here take off and clean the carb on this mower, I feel sure I can do the same to the one I have & Give it life again as You did yours. Thanks for video , Really liked the easy going way You did it.
Very helpful vid! I actually just got my 5.5hp B&S mower running again before watching this. Didn't take carb off, just replaced the air filter, and removed and cleaned the bowl and nut. Guitar wire works great for the holes. I soaked the bowl in brake cleaner and sprayed everything down with carb cleaner. She fired right up!
Yes, sometimes you can do that... sometimes the carburetor is so bad, i've actually had to sand blast it to get it back again! I guess when it gets to that point it's better to buy a new one.. they're like $15 on Amazon! Guitar wire? You mean a High E string? Yea that's pretty thin...
Good video. You detail all features of the carb. I just rebuilt my Briggs Carb. Depending on how old the mower is (a few years?) you are better off purchasing a Briggs carb kit. For around $14.00 you get every single component including gaskets. Reason: the ethanol in the fuel damages all of the components. It makes the seals and gaskets swell. The float will not operate properly. Need to use ethanol free gas for longevity.
@JLPicard440 I always use black But the problem with me...I have to remember how dirty or greasy they have turned and I have to keep them away from my face - eyes - mouth- hair and ...man you name it haha😂 . Sometimes I get the orange ones and to be a nerd - I'll use a black one and an orange one Because it reminds me of Halloween 🎃
Lol! Actually that's a good idea on the orange gloves. I use the black ones over and over until they finally blow out! They definitely seem to last much better than the blue ones.
Almost every thing I work on does not require me to spend any money with the exception of being carb cleaner and brake cleaner. 99 out of 100 times I can get something running without having to buy anything. When the weather gets nice around here that's when I will start having neighbors asking me to fix the lawn mower. Most of the time I don't charge them anything. Of course when I have to order parts they pay for them. It works out pretty good being nice to the neighbours. It has been almost seven years since I have needed to start my snowblower. I have two different neighbors that will clean up the snow for me. Seeing that in most cases they cannot get it started to even do their own property and I normally can get it running for them within a half an hour. I tell them all the time to use gas stabilizer. They always say they do and I know the truth. Every single piece of equipment I own start every time no matter how long it has sat. Before I even leave to go to the gas station stabilizer is in the can. I enjoyed your video.
HI David.. Yes, I'm the same way, most of the time I can get things running without parts. My neighbors are anti social... lol.. I know like 4 of them on the whole street.. I use the stabilizer also and I also like to use Ethanol free gas. We have a local gas station that sells it. I hope they don't quit selling it because then the only option is to go to the local airport and see if they'll sell me some 100LL in a 5 gallon can. I'm glad you enjoyed the video... :-)
I use power tools all the time for a variety of things.. I"ve been using them for so long, I just know when to stop. I've never stripped a single thing.. ever!.. But it is up to the person.. you can't just hold it on there and go to town with it.... :-)
All this emphasis on cleaning discoloration on parts (like the float!) is irrelevant to the running of the engine. Soak in cleaner, blow out the obvious clogs, replace the needle and seat and it will be fine. I suggest using a $15 rebuild kit available anywhere to get all the wear parts and gaskets like new.
@@JLPicard440 eh. Laurence is right, with decent carb cleaner and a paper towel you can rub out most of that discoloration without the steel brush wheel. Also the discoloration gunk you refer to gets cut by cleaner, not physical means. Its a chemical reaction more than physical.
Also near the endb you specifically states "9 times out of 10 this is the clog"...then you go on to say a bit of carb cleaner through the hole gets it running.
I have this same engine on my log splitter--but I can not read the stamped metal numbers due to is on the exhaust area and is corroded too much. Incredibly--it is the same exact one you have there except mine is a 6.0 hp instead of 6.5 hp. can you let me know please what your model numbers are please? I need to get the carb rebuild kit and some other things--so am in desperate needs. Thx
HI, I don't have access to that engine anymore... Do you have a wire wheel, a drill and a good magnifying glass? If you use the wire wheel to clean off the rust or corrosion you might be able to read it ... 😀
Cleaned the carb and got it to run but there's a plastic arm that stops the mower, if it's held in place mower runs fine...any clue how to address this? Could the small springs have lost strength from sitting outside under a tarp?
A lot of times you can double up the gasket to get the primer to work. I don't know if it's from it getting warped like you said or what. But I've seen many that won't work with even a new gasket unless you use two.
Yes sir,... I've done that trick too... I'm glad they did away with that primer ball... Some people say the auto choke that replaces it, is junk, but I haven't had much trouble with it... It's more reliable than the primer ball.. for me anyways..
I've cleaned my carb pretty good, yet it is still surging back and forth, just doesn't sound right. I think the problem is the little orange gasket inside the carb, the hole in it seems smaller than ones I've seen advertised. I've read elsewhere that they can swell up over time and block the gas a little. Are you aware of this problem, and I also wonder how often these things need to be replaced? Any info would be helpful.
No, I've never heard of that... look inside the carb it's hard to expain and you might have to google "the idle circuit" for the carb.. but there's usually a tiny little hole that needs cleaned out that could be causing that surging... if not, I've drilled out the main jet. You have to have a very small set of drill bits.. I'm not sure what size that'll be, but it'll be sized like #60 or #70 somewhere in that range... drill the main jet only one size bigger than it currently is,.. that might help too...
@@JLPicard440 - Thanks for the reply. Well, I don't think my issue is with the carb at all now, I'm pretty sure it is the ignition coil magneto. I used a multimeter to test the Ohms on it, and it read 6.4, which is well above the 2.5 -5.0 range I have learned it should be. I ordered one from Amazon, got it yesterday, looked brand new, but I tested it before installing, and it read 5.9 Ohms. I installed anyhow, and the mower still sounds the same, as if I have the throttle on low (I have no control over the throttle, it is automatic). Have you had any experience with bad ignition coils?
@@JLPicard440 - Naw, and it could be the problem I guess. But you usually hear that the flywheel key needs to be replaced because you hit something while mowing, and I didn't hit anything hard. It was running fine one day, and then the next day it wasn't. Also, it doesn't have any trouble starting, it just doesn't run as smoothly as it had. And the magneto showing the Ohms levels higher than the accepted level has to affect the performance from what I hear. I could try to check the key, but don't you need special tools to remove the flywheel? I'm checking online, and most people use some kind of puller. Thanks for your help.
@@JLPicard440 - I took the the little cylinder that holds the flywheel in off of it, and I inspected the key. I'm no expert, but it looks okay, since it is lined up with the shaft and is level with the flywheel. Gotta be that magneto.
I found out almost by accident that Simple Green melts that varnish off of the bowl after only a couple minutes of brushing it around with an old toothbrush that I bent with a butane lighter. It seems unlikely .but try it!
I'd recommend you always run some fuel system cleaner through it after disturbing all those solids. It'll also help flush away some of that varnish and burn it off. Maybe a tablespoon per tankful of gas.
Good Tip... A lot of times, I'll pull the gas tank and flush it out with water hose for 5 min and then dry it of course... This works great in flushing anything out of it....
I've done that when I had the patience to see it through. On my very first riding mower (Wheel Horse 312-A), which had been sitting for about 5 years, I pulled the tank to flush it with soap and water. I had nickel-sized flakes of varnish in my tank when I rinsed it. I always try to add fuel filters to my lines, even on these small engines. I'd hate to go through all that trouble to clean my carb only to allow it to stop up again with bits of grass, etc. If you search you can usually find filters in bulk for a buck or two each in volume. Need clamps too. At any rate, thanks for sharing your experience and expertise with us all.
Also... just a suggestion here: I recognize that when you "think" your way through something like this, then post it for all to see (and critique), you kind of leave yourself open to criticism. If you can get past that knee-jerk reaction to defend yourself, you may learn something that you can apply or share with others. I say, "More power to you." I love RU-vid. I have learned sooooo much because I thirst for understanding and never stop in the quest for knowledge - especially of things I am interested in. Do I know how to clean a carb? I like to think I do. Yet here I am, taking notes from a fellow who thinks he knows how to clean a carb. I'm comparing notes with you. You're reinforcing what I believe to be true, and causing me to question things I'd never considered before. I'm not ashamed to tell you that it's opportunities like this that allow me to solidify my beliefs, and cause me to ask my self the questions that explain why I believe what I do.
I love to learn too.... I will never be so arrogant to say that I know everything. I know people like that, and I gotta say it's the most unattractive quality that somebody can have. I like hearing other people ideas and suggestions. Even if I don't do or act on them, I'll still keep it in my bag of tricks! Thanks for the comments!
It's hard to get ethanol free gas around here. There are a couple stations that have it, but they aren't convenient. Lowe's has that stuff, but they want $20 for a one gallon jug.. they're out of their minds! LOL
Hondas run good when they run, but I really don't like their carb design with the two bolts holding everthing together from the air cleaner all the way to the block. Briggs is much easier to work on!.... Thanks for watching... :-)
When I clean my Honda’s, I use threaded rods in place of the carb bolts. One at a time of course. Both manufacturers have faulty air cleaners. They are actually very bad!
@@algorel4763 that's a good idea! Thanks for the tip... yes the briggs air cleaner with the primer ball is junk! When the primer ball doesn't work, sometimes you can double up the gasket and it'll work, but I hate those.. the auto choke isn't as problematic even though it's basically the same air cleaner... if it leaks a little, there's no primer ball to quit working..
I cleaned a carburetor on an engine just like yours but the primer barely picks up the gas and the engine surges. The carburetor is clean and the primer is intact. I never over tightened the air filter holder but I noticed it if the bolts are tight the primer will not draw in any gas. What should I do?
@@brianmott728 As for the purple power, I don't see why it wouldn't work... any degreaser should be fine. Just don't let it sit in there for days. If you have one of the older briggs with the manual primer bulb on the carburetor, those are a very common issue with not pumping gas... What I do is double the gaskets on the air filter. That works most of the time. As for the surging... there's a lot of different things that could cause that. Sometimes the only fix is a carb replacement. Most of the those carburetors can be bought from Amazon for under $15, so it's not worth investing a whole lot of time in... But if you go that route, order 2 gaskets for the primer ball too... hope this helps.. thanks.
The primer bulb is on the end of the air filter holder. I doubled the gaskets on another B&S engine but it still can be hard to start and will surge most of the time. How do you know the intake valve is not leaking?
@@brianmott728 I rarely remove those. Just spray some carb cleaner up thru and call it a day. Sometimes if you do remove them, you can reuse it, if you place the plug on a anvil and flatten it with a hammer... sometimes that works, sometimes not!
Oh man you're lame. Who cares?! He still showed us how to do the job and get it down. If you try and it still doesn't work ...then A: you're a tard and B: you're a jerk.
The engine model, type and serial number are located on a tag just above the muffler. You'll need the model and type. Sometimes you need the serial number too. I usually go to www.partstree.com to look it up. Once you look up the model number of the engine, you can get the P/N of the carburetor from the parts breakdown.
I thought this was the EASY method lol My late 80s 13.5 Briggs & stratton was runnog real rough, used carb cleaner & removed Bowl, cleaned it out good, now barely starts & will only barely run about half way on the throttle lever thing. Now the battery is so low I got it on the charger, cant get it to start now. I used Starting fluid, barly starts & struggles to stay running. Wonder if my 3 week old gas is bad.
97warlock ismyname I doubt if the gas is bad unless it got water in it.... I don’t know which carb u are dealing with.. but if it has a emulsion tube in the center of carb where the bowl screw goes... it could be the culprit... if it has one... you’ll have to carefully pull it out and clean it....
I don't know if you have one ... I'm not familiar with those carbs from back then without seeing it. But yea, if you take the bowl screw out of the middle and look up in the hole that the screw came out of.. there might be something there that you have to pull out and look at.... but if you look up there and it's just aluminum then you don't have one...
I believe my Carb is allumininum. ... Home depot is like 2 minutes from me, may go buy this high octane drygas stuff & see if that might help it fire up.
Maybe... there might have been some trash in the gas tank that re- contaminated the carburetor after u cleaned it.... if that happened.. the fresh gas won't do any good.. so keep that in mind... thanks..
That was quite a fastidious carb cleaning; but EASY? I figure the time will come when I'll need to clean the carb on my '94 mower so the title word EASY caught my attention but I'm lost as to what about your procedure was different or easier in any way.
Johan Schröder I’ve seen them so bad there’s no other way to get it clean.... if it rusts later then it rusts.... I’ve had to sand blast some that were just horrible and still was able to bring it back to life... if it makes it thru the season... great... if not just buy another one... there not that expensive if u get aftermarket