Beautiful work! Thank you for sharing this and showing how to properly and genuinely restore headlights. Very valuable information. Well done video presentation!
De los "mil"videos que he visto; usted sí lo hizo como debe de ser. Es un trabajo profesional de altura. Se llevó el gram prix!! Tiene derecho a un chocolate milkiwey!! Saludos gracias.
I scraped off my headlights until my hand ended up with only four fingers. But hey, at least my headlights look new again and I can see at night... Life saver! Thank you👍
Actually it will mess up in a few weeks and you are probably going to have sealant problems among other issues. It would be better buying a new OEM part. Manufacturers have to produce 5 yrs of what they call service parts and the mold is on hold forever or can be sold to another manufacturer to build after that. A service part is far cheaper also.
@@lavellhall7650 I tried that a few years ago. ya know, spray on, wipe off. Nice and shiny but the roughness is still there and after the wd40 washes off you're back to where you were. The oxidation/roughness can be removed by sanding. Auto parts stores sale kits for this But as Iron Man shows 2 or 3 sheets of wet/dry sand paper will do the job.
Pretty amazing scratch removal technique with the razor blade! Finer grit sandpaper will make the plastic more crystal clear than 1000. Be careful with the buffing wheel to avoid distorting the plastic optics. The lens will look wavy. To finish the plastic restoration add a cover of clear film. It will last 5 years and provide 100% (within limits) protection from scratches and grit and UV! When you need to replace the film it peels off and a new one takes it's place. No more restorations are needed. Great video.
I like the idea of the clear film over the lens after they are cleaned and polished. I use clear film to cover light lens on aircraft and it worked well.
I bought a professional 3M kit for my shop years ago. It came with a pneumatic 2" orbital sander and buffer. As I recall the starting grit for initial prep of the lenses was 80 or 100 wet. Then stepped to200, 400, 800, 1000, and finished with 3000 grit. I found that sanding with each grit until the water I frequently sprayed in the lenses ran clear instead of milky white I got the best results. Then followed up with 3M plastic cleaner and buffing wheel and finished with 3M plastic polish. Crystal clear results. Afterwards I've tried spray on clear coating the lenses, waxing them, and several other methods trying to preserve the finish. The clear coat works pretty well but unfortunately the durability of the finish seems to depend more on the quality of plastic the lenses is made out of rather than the effort put into the restoration. Seems to me like it's time for a massive class action lawsuit against the auto manufacturers, ALL OF THEM, that have foisted these extremely expensive, inferior, and dangerous plastic headlights onto their customers in the interest of aesthetic beauty. I'd just as soon go back to the old glass headlights for 10% of the cost of these things. The glass ones never needed restoring, just replacement.
Awesome advice, all I did was what you have done here. Now I applied two layers of clear spray and repeat the polish. This method will add more shine to your lights.
Good detailed job. I like to spray a clear coat on the lens for clarity and protection. If you dont protect the lens it will not last long till it gets nasty again.
@@raulnoelnatividad902 Its called Spraymax 2k high gloss clear coat. I have restored nasty looking headlamps to look like new. You can take off all the yellowing first by thoroughly wet sanding with a little dish soap in three steps. Start with a 320 grit to 700 to finaly a 1500 to 2000 grit sand paper. The lens will be smooth but hazy after this process. Clean the lens really well with water and make sure it's all dry and clean. Then spray the lens with 2k high gloss clear coat with two coats. Dont spray in direct sun but in the shade but with hot outside temps. A hot outside temperature is needed for the clear to set correctly. Again the clear coat needs hot outside temps to look clear and transparent like glass, if not it will look hazy as hell and not clear up. I use a heat gun to help to cure the clear to a mirror finish but dont apply too much heat in one area. Just pass over the lens in a sweeping action and not too close with the heat gun. If it's hot as hell outside your good. But not indirect sun like I said. Dont apply such a wet coat of clear to avoid runs. You want to apply two coats of clear. wait till it clears up then apply a second coat. The end result is a lamp that looks like you just bought it new and is protected for a long time. If you can remove the lens it's better, if not you need to mask the car up real good because the clear coat overspray gets on the paint easily and can buffer into the paint and not something you want. I recomend taking of the lamps off the car. I buy 2k clear on ebay,Its a two part clear with hardener in one can. It's like what the body shops use, 1 can costs about 20 bucks. Do this and say goodbye to yellow lamps. The more time you put into the sanding and you have a good spray technique like a pro painter the nicer it will be. Like no runs on the clear finish and smooth like glass etc. when you sand go in the same direction on the lens and stay on one area and move to another as you go, don't jump around all over the place so you get it all the same.
Nah, too much work! I rather buy new ones Edit: you gave me a heart...well now I feel bad for not saying "great job, the headlight looks amazing" so...great job, the headlight looks amazing👌😁
I just polished a pair on a '99 Porsche Boxter charged $65 because I was doing other body repairs. New Halogen headlights are $1029.47 each from Dealer. Xenon are $2390.08 each
Sir, what language have you written in, as I cannot quite decipher the core message? Perhaps you could do with some basic English classes to raise your level of the language, which will then enable you to effectively communicate with the lovely people of the RU-vid forum.🙄
Awesome video, awesome job, whenever you put the lenses back on,, you should put some strong silicon to hold the plastic lenses in place, like RTV, clear silicone so no humidity of water enters the light fixture 👍👍👍👍👍
Yes!!! I have 3 1978 Buick Regals and they have square, glass, sealed beam headlights and I love it!!! Been in them over 20 years and don't have to worry about yellowish oxidized lenses!!!
I once had a job rebuilding telephones. We sometimes had to use a high speed buffing wheel like he used... and believe me ... you have to be very careful to not buff in the same spot very long. It can QUICKLY overheat the plastic and cause a melt-spot.... which is very difficult to fix. Also, he didn't apply any kind of protective coating such as clear-coat UV protective paint. The lens will start fogging up again within a few months. Other than that.... AWESOME JOB and great video.
Yep, 6 monts, until they turn yellow from the UV light. You need , realy need UV protection. But you can't put any clear UV coat over that polishing paste. So, you don't polish with paste. You finish the surfice with 2000 water sandpaper and then spray over with UV protection clear coat. I've done it more than enough times and works.
Don't spray with clear coat - it has no UV blocker in it. Spray over with clear plastic primer - the best is Upol. The last lamps I did have lasted just over a year now with no return of misting.
@@willysir8836 Seriously, it isn't. The best you'll get is 6 months before it starts misting over again. I sell this stuff for a living, and when customers (car dealers and detailers) come in & tell us they've found an alternative that works, we try it and guess what - they're right. It might not seem the right solution - but it just is.
@@jeremycueto907 It may remove the yellow stain, however if the head light is coated it will not turn yellow, the coating will protect the interior as well. Coating is not an option. On your new car, never rub the head lights for cleaning purpose, always go gentle with cleaning to keep the coating untouched.
It seems to affect German cars more than others. I had a VW Polo, an Audi, and a Mercedes van. My relative has a VW Golf, and all the aforementioned vehicles have had almost exactly the same problem with headlights. We had a dealer polish the headlights on the Golf, and it seemed to be fine for a few weeks, and then gradually started to deteriorate again. The only permanent solution is to replace the whole light unit, but they can cost an arm and a leg.
Sweet Project Cars taught me how to do this whole process with Mother's Mag polish and an inexpensive buffer wheel... took 7 minutes per lens! Then I coated it with UV protectant to make it last.
Good procedure. It looks interesting. However I would like to ask myself the following question. What happened to the Ultra Violet protection that the glass has, (I know it is not glass, it is a polymer). All the bulbs have a film that protects them from UV rays. By polishing the transparent material, you remove that protective film. Is there a product that can be used to prevent it from becoming opaque again? Well, precisely the UV rays that make the glass opaque. Greetings.
If anyone is looking to restore your headlights please forget everything you have seen in this video. There is nothing "professional" about what this guy did. The methods used here will leave most people with destroyed headlights. Why he even took the lens off is beyond me. Even "re-sealed" it by just heating whatever is left of the glue and sticking the lens back on. Great way to get condensation/water in the headlight in the wintertime. Also the lens wil be dull again in a matter of weeks in the sun because it's not clearcoated or protected from uv ray's in any way. Thank youtube for pushing these "professional" .. 8 million views for a video on how NOT to restore a headlight.
I have been working for 23 years in Brazil in the purchase / sale and restoration of headlamps, lanterns and bumpers, absolutely certain cleaning and polishing procedures for the lenses, congratulations.
Через некоторое время помутнеет и будет ещё хуже чем было. 1) С завода оргстекло покрыто защитным лаком, в данном случае после 2000 бумаги нужно было покрыть хотя бы лаком. 2) большая вероятность запотевания фары после разборки. 3) отражатель после любых полировок становится только мутнее.
I CRINGED when he first touched the interior lens... and that was before he used those wiping towels. Final result looks good, but so much could have gone wrong here. A clear coat is still needed to finish this repair/restoration correctly.
Too much work, but excellent over ALL my friend! I cleaned my headlight with Windex (no ammonia), then used a piece of steel wool pad to take off as much oxidation from the plastic; then I proceeded to use 100% nail polish remover (with a clean rag) and wallaaa...new as before. I also sprayed some clear coat of paint at the end for longer results. Results may vary if you park indoors/outdoors, and in direct sunlight too. I did my lights 6 months ago and they are still looking good. Good luck & As-salāmu ʿalaykum.
By removing the headlight apart and washing it then sanding and buffing is the professional way to do it It takes a lot more time to remove the light from the car then to brake the seal to open up the light but it's really the best way if your headlights are totally fucked up If there not that bad then simply cut and buff
my dear friend , it is good that you took sooo much effort for something which is not required. You need to simply get hold of some rubbing compound and rub the paste with a soft cloth over the top glass vigorously for a short while, add drops of water on the surface as and when required. Job is done in 5 minutes , if you are slow and lazy. it actually takes about 2 mts for an active guy...... And pleasee don't ever use the blade You are welcome.
