How to clear the PCM memory on a Ford F150. I will show you step by step how to clear the memory. After engine or transmission repairs you should do this.
I was hauling a horse trailer and my truck had a meltdown, check engine light came on along with the wrench and check 4x4. My truck never had any issues when this happened, no issues with over heating, it wasn’t in 4 wheel drive, everything was fine. The check engine light went away but my truck just didn’t seem right took it to the mechanic he couldn’t find anything. But I knew something was off in my transmission. I did this reset and it’s like driving a different truck. My check 4x4 wrench is still on, but that is a different issue that will be addressed this week. The problem I felt with my transmission is completely gone now and my gas mileage has improved! Thanks!!!
I have a 16 fusion with push to start when I turn on my car to start it up after the reset do I press the button and leave it for 10 seconds and then start it up by pressing the break and the button
2011 f150 6r80. Worked to reset my TCM. Had super harsh shifting in and out of 4th. Sounded like the whole drivetrain was leaving the chat. Did this and shifts are good again.
Maybe, hope so. How many miles do you have on it? Have you done a tune up recently? Changed the air filter and sparkplugs? Also make sure your tires have the correct tire pressure.
@@thomasfixit7931 It has about 132k miles on it.. I've changed the plugs and air filter, and the tires are at the right pressure.. Maybe I should change the fuel filter, clean the TB and MAF sensor 🤷🏾♂️
@@mhassouneh you can take it to a mechanic or try replacing the fuel filter. Changing the fuel filter it a part of maintenance, that the owners manual recommends.
My 1999 Ford f150 6 cylinder 4.2 I change the water pump everything was fine but when it got back together the coil is good but it's not sending spark crankshaft sensor and still no spark to the coil the coil is good tested on ohm meter but still would not start and and there was no spark
Hi Thomas! How are you? You think doing this I can reset my bcm( battery control module) I try everything and don’t work the scanner give the U0140-60 ?? I really appreciate your help
i have the same. if i read out my pcm i have fluctuating data on al enginesensors, it shudders in idle but when i drive i dont notice it. i have no enginecheck light our any codes and no blown fuses. I remember after a hot day 25+ celcius and 2 ours of trafficjam´driving´ it went on 3 or 4 cilinders for the last mile. after that a time went by and it was ok. now 4 month later, misfires on idle and some times when pulling up slowly. changed al the coils and plugs in one sitting. did not went away. some say pcm is fried. Hope not. will try to clear pcm as wel and maybe do the transfluidwonderlube as wel. it does leak at the base of the transmissionfluiddipstick.... F150 2007 supercrew XLT 5.4 with a 2010 engine but the original pcm and wiring
yes, its gone, i went to a speedshop and the found that there was a missfire in cil5 and that there was a update for my ecm. so they programmed it 65bucks, after this it ran quite a bit better when i finished the selflearning steps for the ecm. (by driving braking pulls etc) at home i changed the ignition coil of cil 5 and still strong today!
2011 f150 changed the cam shaft sensor and it is running rough. Only runs smooth at about 60mph. Should this be done to fix the issue? Or will it hurt to try?
I just had lock smith try to start my f150 . I put a rebuilt instrument cluster . Had no luck get my truck started . says might need a PCM . Started up ok with old 1 . Why would I need replace it? So what I watch your vireo would that help me you know by by clearing the PCM memory? Then key might take program . What your thought on it?
our Ford F250 just trew a plug and broke a coil pack bracket. We replaced the coil pack and it still sounds like its missing and running real bad, do you think a reset could be what we need to do?
There COMEING on that truck to do that only thing I know to do is take the head off get. It re done. It's sad they don't build them like they use to I got a no start problem with mine tried everything any way have a blessed day or night
Hi, I just watched your video and got me wondering if this could help me. I own a 2017 ford explorer sport. My lights were left on and drained my battery. I received a jump however noticed from that point my gas mileage average went down drastically. I use to get 19 - 23 miles per gallon. Now I get 10 - 12.5 per gallon. I went to Ford and had them replace my battery. Now they are saying that the gas issue should be solved if I ok them to do a PCM, BCM, and IPC factory reset which is not covered under warranty and will cost close to $600. Any help on this is greatly appreciated.
Try to do what you can do yourself to see if if works. At todays gas prices it might be worth paying them to fix it, if you can figure it out. You may need to use the forscan
My 2009 f150 had a misfire on cylinder #5 I changed all the spark plugs and changed the coil on cylinder 5, erased the check engine light. When I have the key on the "ON" position it says "misfire cylinder 5" but when I turn it on it has no codes and it won't pass emissions. Do you think I have to do this?
Would doing this to my 2011 f150 clear the my key crap that restricts the speed to 80mph and it won’t let the volume of the radio turn up halfway and the seat belt dings constantly unless it’s worn. Do you think disconnecting the battery would kill all that mess?
After changing the coils and spark plugs 1 fuel injector fuel filter & fuel pump on my 2005 Ford Expedition 4 by 4 I lost power. Could this possibly be a quick fix?
@@thomasfixit7931 it wasn't the ECU, it was a few loose wires and loose connections on 3 individual coils. So I tightened everything up and still reset my ECU the way you show in this video, because I changed so many parts that this procedure became necessary. thanks for the info great video!
@@thomasfixit7931 Not yet. Im still chasing the issue. Today I changed the ECU and although it ran great for about 10 minutes and also noticed that a buzzing noise coming from the bottom of my truck winning on the freeway at 50 miles an hour is completely gone?, and still getting misfire on number 2 cylinder. 4 days ago I changed the plugs and coils and again two days ago the plug on cylinder number 2 was a temporary fix and the fuel injector in that cylinder also change mass air flow sensor and fuel sensor on the fuel injection rail along with the fuel pump in the gas tank and fuel filter. Now it runs idles great but when I get to 40 miles an hour the engine starts to rumble and I get it blinking engine light and I start to lose power it's sporadic and happens only at speed over 45 accelerates great like brand new it's got a hundred ninety-five thousand miles and I am feverishly trying to figure out what could be the problem???
I have an 05 f150 with 237,829 miles and I can only drive in reverse. I changed both input and output speed sensors, coils, cleaned the throttle body, timing solenoids, and trans fluid and other suggestions on what I can do?
Take to a mechanic if you can't figure it out. You don't have to get them to repair it, but you can pay them to tell you what the problem is and then you can replace the stuff if you want.
Ok changed my water pump and thermostat fans running with the volume at 11!!! Non stop. I might have an air pocket. I have pointed nose of truck to the sky in different positions. Now I'm cleaning battery terms. Any feedback or idea why my fan runs at all times????
Question. I have a 2017 f150 ecoboost. Brought it into the dealership and they did some kind of reset. I had a throttle response controller plugged in. Drove just fine the first day after it left the dealership. Today the shifting was awful. I unplugged the controller, did this reset and it would barely go in reverse. Did I do something wrong?
Please help. Doesnt know if this caused it but someone unhooked my battery only the negative to fiddle with something in truck. It was unplugged for about 10-15mins then hooked rigjt bavk up. I drive my truck about 15mins later and now my truck is shifting roughly. Fluids are good. Ran codes and only code it throws is P0358. Please help
Thomas I just purchased 2012 Ford F150 XLT four-wheel drive the dealer told me they would have the PCM replace within a week it's now been 3 weeks and they're saying it's impossible to find a new one the truck runs perfectly fine ships out fine the gas mileage is good I have no idea what it's doing do you think it would be okay to just do what you doing the video and let it go until I can get one from a Ford dealer
@@thomasfixit7931 nope i bought a fuel pump tho have not put it in yet. on the dash i had 3 ford codes dtcd147 dtcd262 and dtc9202 i removed the batter this moring and followed your instructions and the only code that remained was the Dtc9202 other then that nothing recently has been changed
@@thomasfixit7931 the dtc9202 code is for an open circuit in fuel sender when i idle for a little the guage drops to E and the light comes on im assuming that the evap and fuel pump go hand in hand
If you are having diagnostic issues you need to take it to a professional. I would have to actually look at the vehicle to try and figure out the problem.
Will this clear the battery icon on the dash? I've done everything I've seen online and nothing works I have installed a new battery and the alternator is working. Thank you.
I just replaced the PCM in my 2008 F150 ( and the transmission 2 months ago ) with a refurbished and updated unit. I did everything correctly and now my truck won’t start at all! Do I need to do this memory thing, or should the truck simply start? HELP!!!
Ok I had this same problem i changed my fuel pump relay fuse because My truck wouldn’t crank so I changed it and it worked But when it cranked it threw a hill descent fault code a Advance track code and a powertrain malfunction code. Now my truck is in like limp mode or something. I have no clue what happen do you thank it was because of me changing the fuse?
That method has been proven not to really work because you aren’t draining the power left inside the PCM also none as your Power Control Module. The best way to do this is to simply disconnect the negative side of the battery only and connect a wire with a clamp to the positive side of the battery and the other to the negative side terminal not to the negative side but to the terminal wire you just disconnected, you should leave it for maybe 10-15minutes. And do the rest like the guy in the video said. Drive it around for a few days not punching the gas, so the system can self learn shifting points.
Did this today on my 2010 F150. I had the shuddering issue in low RPMs. Did the coils and sparkplugs but still had same issue. Been dealing with this issue for weeks. I did the reset and it seems to have a much smoother idle and very quiet. Also the exhaust seems "throat-ier" if that makes sense. I did a recleaning of the boots, etc, while the neg terminal was off so I don't know. I'm thinking the battery thing did something.
@@thomasfixit7931 No, it never has. I took a drive last night and same issue persists. I know it's a misfire but not certain from where. I ordered a little scan tool obd2 that you use with ios app. There are tests that I saw on RU-vid you can run to pinpoint which cylinder is misfiring so hopefully I'll figure it out. Could have a bad new plug or coil, who knows
@@thomasfixit7931 Well, I put some of that Instant Shudder Fixx in the transmission that I had lying around and if I be danged it seems to have fixed it. Truck shifts smoother than I can ever remember also. Guess it was a Torque Converter locking up. Same symptoms as coils/plugs it seems. So I suppose that's a good sign I may need a fluid change pretty soon. Also, got a scan tool and never got anything but a "general" misfire count but no CEL. Nothing on any of the cylinder misfires. Getting some readings on o2 sensors so I think I need new sensors. But the shudder seems to be gone.
Thanks! I am planning on doing this. I am having problems with my 2006 ford f-150 after changing the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel modulator, and fuel rail process sensor. I'm getting a PO191 code. Any help would be appreciated if you know further what to do. Cause even after all that, my truck still loses power while accelerating or just driving currently. Can't really take it anywhere. Could resetting this help?
everyone tries the cheapest easiest way first then if that does not work you test or diagnose another way,,, you follow and test until you get the real issue , if it didn`t work for you then you got another problem otherwise every car/truck problem would just be resolved by disconnecting the battery ! keep testing !
