This video does not properly describe all of the skills, and knowledge required to climb this mountain safely. This video is negligently dangerous. If you wish to climb Rainer, insure you understand the following: how to use crampons, how to use an ice axe, how to self arrest, how to self belay, french/german/plung steps, objective hazards like ice and rock fall, how to travel across glaciers with a rope, reading a glacier, how to arrest a fall of a partner, crevasse rescue, how self rescue in a crevasse fall, wanding, understanding avalanche hazards, avalanche rescue, proper gear and clothing, setting up camp in the snow, LNT principles, route finding, mountain forcasting, turn around times and knowing your physical and mental limits at altitude. This is not a complete list.
Fitness and good weather. Fitness and good weather...that's 90% of it. It really helps if you have good equipment and know how to use it. Did I mention fitness and good weather?
Pro tip: Use gaiters to keep your pants tight to your legs, so that you do NOT slash your pants. Also allows you to use more breathable pants, as the gaiters will protect your lower legs from the snow you kick up while climbing. Experience will help you learn how to move so that you are not trying to puncture your legs with sharp things. Last joke from a fellow pilot: What's the difference between a pilot and a flight attendant? Pilots DESCEND... flight attendants GO DOWN. Please, everyone, DESCEND Mt Rainier safely! ;)
Great video!! Anyone that’s planning to go make sure you bring sunscreen and sunglasses. I got burned really really bad at mt. Adams. I would also bring a mask to cover your face from the sun and it will help you breath comfortably in cold conditions.
Yeah definitely true, the sun reflects so much off the bright snow!! I remember when I was hiking through the Himalayas I had to cover my face with a spare T-shirt to keep from getting cooked!
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Amazingly informative if you wanna trust a guy who is literally talking out his ass. He has absolutely no clue how to mountaineer. This is honestly terrifying. Find a credible source to get your info. This dude is just babbling crap. He doesn’t know what things are called or what they are used for or how to even use gear correctly.
Ill be damned those are my exact lowa renegades. I dont advise using them when I did ranier 40 years ago I used solid upper Kastingers which are designed for mountain climbing and totally solid upper and sole. If the sole flexes wearing crampons you can slip with unsavory consequences. make sure your pants have a strings at the bottoms you can get by without gaters. interweave the pant laces through the laces of the boots. wear an undershell base layer of longjohns 2 peice not a one peice union suit. always have a big green garbage bag in your pack it could save your life as you can cut a hole and poke your head through. you will then use it to "glissade" on the way down. I disagree being all roped together it usually ends in a multiple fatality and the thinking has now changed on it. More people die by being roped together---------------than are saved by it. where you were walking over from muir to dissapointment cleave that is where the 13 people died a couple weeks before and we went right over the top of them. They roped together all got swept into the crevices but that was 40 years ago I dont know the conditions now. anyway thats my chime in watching the video scared the wits out me I dont know how we did it.
That definitely all sounds like good advice to me!! Yeah you're definitely right about wearing boots designed for crampons, definitely safer, thank god mine didn't randomly fall off at an unfortunate time!
Man, what a difference the weather makes. We tried, but a storm moved in, 40mph gusts at the top of disappointment cleaver, in the dark, made us turn around. Next time. 😂
Hi! Thanks for this video! Its exciting to watch! I have a questions about the "gully" portion of the climb (@ minute 9:45 in video). How long would you say this section is - like an 1 or 2 hours to get through? Asking because I know this part would easily be the hardest part for me! At the very very beginning of my research process for this possible adventure :)!
Hey thanks anna!! The really dangerous part with the extra dangerous path is only a couple minutes long, I dont think I filmed that part, the part that I had filmed in the video is probably like 30 minutes long, where the edge is steep but not quite as dangerous.
Nah, no problems, it was real temperate weather during my experience, not windy, and not cold. The snow was good for setting-up a tent the way it was naturally, we didn't really have to dig anything.
back when i did it, i did it right at the ranger station and didnt have the permit ready in advance. but possibly if you do it like this you could potentially run the risk of them telling you they have no more permits available :/
hmm, we started climbing up from camp muir around 2 am, summit-ed about an hour or two hours after sunrise (so probably roughly 6 hours ish??) , and went back down and got to the parking lot around 12 noon I believe, if i recall correctly.
you theoretically can do it however you want, but 99 percent of people will want to stop at camp muir, unload some of their stuff into a tent, rest, eat, drink, and then start climbing again after midnight. there are some extreme athlete climbers that can do it all at once.
it would be possible, yeah, you would just be super tired, it would probably be more enjoyable if you did it in 2 days. though, i didnt really get any sleep in the tent, so it kind of is like one long single day haha
I know there’s a bad add woman that has climbed it many times. Did it in a day when she was close to 80 if I recall. Can be done, but you’d need to time it right. I think you’d want to start from Paradise more like afternoon, plan on resting and leaving Muir with the others around midnight.
I had the same question myself, but after doing it, I dont think it would be a good idea to try and do it all at once. There are some sections that would probably be dangerous while doing it fully exhausted. There are some super hardcore mountain climber marathon people that can do it all at once though
Amazing video, I've been using this to get a real idea of what I need and to expect with temp conditions changing as the years go on, but Im stuck and would love an opinion. I cant seem to find a good hard shell jacket that allows me to put a hood over my helmet
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Was it really necessary to start so early?! I’ve seen people did it from the bottom all the way up in one day wouldn’t it be more comfortable to start later when it’s warmer
I think most people want to summit right after or during sunrise but yeah many ways to do it. Many of the trips are 4 and 5 day so maybe they just span it out
it's definitely not necessary to start so early no, but it's what everyone does. i think they do this because some people are practicing for other big mountains like denali or everest and stuff, and you always wake up early to avoid the deadly storms and stuff. i myself would prefer to sleep a little longer.. it's way colder as you ascend in the darkness too. once the sun comes out it much more pleasant.
@@1lifeonearth The main reason for getting an "alpine start" is better snow conditions for climbing (and possibly descent), plus the sun and snow reflection aren't baking you for as long if it's clear.
That was an excellent video, thank you so much for giving us the true nuts and bolts information that anyone needs to make this climb. One question though, do some climbers do this without roping-up?
Roping up is required above Muir. The rangers will make an exception but you would have to be a world class and very experienced climber for them to allow it. I've been above Muir 5 times and would never go without a rope team. It's just too dangerous.
Hey, thank you!! I don't know the exact rules, but 'Ratta Tat' down below seems to. When I was there, I didn't see anyone doing it without a rope team. Cheers!
Well I'm not knowledgeable enough about mountain climbing to give any good advice on climbing in the winter, though, I do have some friends in the Seattle area who are, and they say the level of danger is drastically increased in the winter-time for a few reasons: 1 it's way colder, 2 way more snow, creating loose snow, snow bridges and hidden crevasses, 3 the route you would have to find on your own as there will be no footprints or markers, 4 if it does storm, visibility will be greatly reduced making it really easy to become lost and stranded. That's all i really know, I know before I climbed it, i thought about climbing it in the winter. I know some people do it in the winter, mostly people training for everest or denali.
1Lifeonearth yeah I did some research during the winter. I’m not quite choosing the winter for the thrill but really just timing. Me being in the military I don’t have a large time frame to go on vacations. Climbing a larger size mountain has always been a dream of mine. If I believe it’s too dangerous I think I might have to scratch this plan and go for a less dangerous one during the winter. If you know any mountains in the continental US that would be perfect in the winter please let me know
Pandos 彡 Its also noteworthy that the route to Paradise may be closed due to heavy snows. The base of the mountain is typically accessible year round, but even the paved sections can become impassible during the winter months
You could try a winter seminar offered by RMI. It's good training, tons of info and, if conditions are right, you could summit. Cost is a factor here. Another way to go is head south to Mexico and climb the volcanoes there in the winter months. It's fantastic. Shop around for local guides and save some money.
@@sefiikk I'm not sure how much research you've done at this point but please don't take anything in this video as a guide for winter, other than the locations. You couldn't even walk from Paradise to Muir yesterday because conditions were so bad and pretty much a white-out. It was around 15 degrees throughout Muir snowfield and you could see less than 10 feet in front of you. Being stuck on the mountain in those conditions is pretty deadly. Rainier is a completely different beast in the winter, and you definitely don't want to even try it unguided if you're considering it this late in the year.
Great video with step by step, permit, cost info etc. Muir is pronounced wrong tho. It’s MYur, as in John Muir. Also crevasse, not crevice. Sunglasses/goggles are a must. Not you “might” want it. It’s game over if you don’t have them.
A few reasons - you want to avoid traffic as much as possible, you never want to be stuck on a mountain (unplanned) when it gets dark, and also crevasses start to open more in the sun which is not ideal.
I have no hiking experience at all, I live in Florida so we have don’t even have hills lol, however I do work out 4 times a week and play basketball, so I would say I’m fit. I just got a pair of hiking shoes, Salomon to be exact. My girlfriend wanted to do the hike, she has some experience hiking, but only has boots and we plan to go at the end of March. I just wanted to see how high you think we should hike, or is there a different route for beginners that have somewhat nice views
you could hike the first part, up to camp muir without any experience or equipment, there's a lot of pretty scenery and some waterfalls along that route. after camp muir is where you need crampons ropes axes helmets lights and everything gets more complex
If you need to watch this video, you are not one bit ready to climb Rainier. Many people have died up there. Including two good friends. And they were very experienced climbers.
Mount Rainier isn't just a strenuous hike. It is a significant glaciated mountain with crazy weather and potential, even on the most common route for fatal consequences for the unprepared. If you need this kind of basic information, you should hire one of the guide services to insure you make good decisions and have expert knowledge to bail you out if there are problems. Don't go up to Rainier unprepared and short of information and experience. Self arrest with an ice axe skill requires practice. Keeping your rope teammate from bottoming out in a crevasse fall and know how to get them safely out is your team's responsibility and require knowledge and practice. Altitude sickness is very common if you try to go from sea level in Seattle to summit in 24 hours. Rainier can generate horrific cold, wind and white out conditions in a hurry. You put yourself and others in danger if you approach this mountain as just a fun strenuous hike. You should work out your skills on less technical mountains before you casually attempt Rainier. archive.seattletimes.com/archive/?date=20020924&slug=rainier24m
