I had the same slow oven preheat problem. I have similar model, LG LRE3061** . Probably 4 years old. Opened up back of unit as you did (thanks for the video) . I found the white 14 AWG wire on the broiler heating element was nearly open, just hanging on by a copper strand or two. The crimp connector was fairly black and a tad bit greenish. The first 1/4 inch of wire insulation was charred black as well. I cut the wire 1/2 inch and stripped the wire 1/4 in. for a new blade connector. But the copper wire strands were heavily oxidized (black). I believe this is not unusual over time at elevated temperatures. I cut back an inch and a half to find good copper wire. I added a short piece of new 14 AWG wire and crimped on a new blade connector. I didn't have any 90 degree blade connectors, so I bent the one I have to 90 degrees. I put it all back together and the oven works like a champ now. Thanks for the video! $8 for small roll of 14 AWG stranded copper wire, and a few dollars for bullet connectors for the wire splice and new female blade connector. I could have used a butt splice, but I prefer bullet connectors.
@@kevinlima5091 you can go to Appliance partspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, marcone.com, reliable.com. Put your model Number in Look in the pictorials for your part then you can buy it wherever you like
My oven is very similar. My problem is that my oven heats to the desired temperature, it chimes, but then stops heating and the temperature drops. What do you think it could be and how would you troubleshoot to know if it is the oven thermometer that is faulty? Thanks for the video, very helpful. I am confident to start traring my oven appart now
You can ohm out the oven sensor . Should read approximately 1000 ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit. If good reading ,still could be faulty. You could begin there. Be safe follow safety electrical precautions.
Similar issue. I found it is bake element not getting call for heat. It perhaps fine because it uses both elements then drops out the top element mostly when cooking on bake. Still trying to determine if I have a bad control board or relay board
Thanks for this video! I was wondering why you couldn't just put a new connector on the red wire for the relay before switching the board entirely? We have the same oven with the same problem but we just put a new connector on and it started working normally.
Happy that you fixed your range/oven. If the male terminal is not burnt up on the relay or loose and still working. Yes, you can save money by not replacing the relay board. I’ve run into a lot of relays that are stuck open. Hopefully yours continue to work for you indefinitely.
Thank you for the video, my stove looks just like the one in the video. I tested everything you said. Circuit board looks good no discolored wires, oms read in the range you said they should be on everything. I started the oven and put timer on 12 min. Oven allert went off at about 11 min it was 300 degress which is why I am looking in to this. And 310 in 12 mins. Any ideas? If you don't mind? Thank you I did hit like and subscribe.
Hi! How do I know wich relay is what? Also when I do conv bake I do have 240 v at the broil element but 0 at the other 2( bake element and convection element).. Do you think I should replace the control board relay? Thanks
I would ohm out the 3 three elements. Bake, broil and , convection with no power to the oven. If the elements are are good move on to seeing which ones are not getting power when you set them to work. It is normal for them to turn off and on.
My LG stove stopped working overnight. The on indicator works and the timer comes on but that's all. Over, burners nothing works. Tried turning the breaker off for about 30 minutes then turned it back on and didn't fix the issue.
Similar oven and issue but not the same. Bake is out. But I have a different style board. Elements have a constant 120 and relay supplies 120 when there is call for heat. Trying to determine if I have a bad relay board or control board and can't figure out how
The manufacturer doesn’t supply that information even to technicians. The main control board would have to send five or 12 DC volts to the bake relay contacts. Find out the details but you can also buy parts from appliance parts pros.com and partselect.com to see if you could send Parts back if they don’t work out.
The relay oven control board part number is EBR74164814. If your model number is LRE3194ST/01. To Find the appliance parts needed. You can go on Sears parts direct.com put your specific model in and look on the pictorial diagrams for your part.
If you’re referring to the dual element on the cooktop range. The burners will fail by not being hot enough or being too hot. By putting it on the highest level. It should remain red hot longer than putting it on the lowest setting it would be not red not. If you know, there’s an issue with the heater element being too hot or not hot enough it will most likely be the infinite/rotary switch.
If you have the range oven as the same one in the video, you have a touchpad and not infinite/rotary switches. If you have rotary switches with the knobs, I have a video on my channel showing you how to replace them for an LG range oven.
You would have to ohm out the heating elements and get a reading. You may visibly see a burn spot on the small oven relay board. I show you in the video.
If you have a problem with your burner, on number eight, it could be a number of things. It could be the range oven control board that you’re touching on number eight, it could be the display board touchpad that you’re touching, and it could be the main control board that has relays that send power to your burners. Try finding someone who has done that repair on RU-vid or call appliance technician. If it was the infinite/rotary switch, it would be a lot easier.
You call for broil. So the main board sends voltage to the relay board so it can turn on the broil. You then check the relay board for voltage which its suppost to have since your calling for broil. You see it has voltage on the relay board and say its bad? Am i missing something?
Good question. It could be confusing but if you read a relay switch it’s the same wire so if you read 240 volts the relay switch did not close and it is faulty. If I read 240 open relay switch needs to close when calling. Need to see 0 volts relay switch closed.
The definition of voltage is a potential difference. Putting your volt meter probes and reading the same line wire, could be 120 volts Line1, Line2, neutral or ground will read 0 volts. Putting your voltmeter probes across a load you will have a potential difference and read a voltage. I hope this helps.
If none of the elements work in the oven ( bottom broil or convection) but the convection fan works how do I check the therminal fuse just by checking the 2 wires on om setting ? I fought all 3 elements gave out at the same time
I think my thermal fuse broke this evening. Started the oven set for 425, started to smell what seemed like burnt plastic, opened the oven fearing someone put something stupid in there and there was nothing. It wouldn't get any hotter and when I restarted it, it wouldn't get above 200. I'll be tearing it apart tomorrow to check and then ordering the part.
I don’t think it’s a thermal fuse because it wouldn’t heat up at all if it opened. You’ll probably see something physically burned if you smelled it. Let us know how it worked out and make sure power is disconnected when touching wires. Be safe.
@@appliance63 you were right. I was finally able to open it up. The red wire you replaced the female connector to is melted. So is the yellow wire above it (although that looks like residual heat). And with that I'm guessing that whole board is fried. Although your red wire has what looks like fire damage, mine is fully melted for the last 1/2" and the black relay is melted at the connection point.
@@appliance63 Any idea on the terminal size? I'm a complete novice when it comes electrical work (I'm also terrified of it), so I'm going to have a buddy that's a journeyman electrician come and hook it up. But at the end of the day, this is just a tiny wire and then plug and play electronics board. EDIT: This thing is called the "Main Power Control Board" right? Just want to make sure I order the correct part. Thanks again!
I use the blue one which is 14 to 16 gauge wire. Before crimping the terminal, make sure it fits the male part snug. The electrician will definitely know.
That could be an inexpensive repair. If you have a soldering iron. How would you go about getting the right relay? The relays have the specifications written on it?. Thank you for your solution.
