Great idea and video! When clicking on the link above, it goes to a page that says "No Posts Found". Searching that page shows no hits for bbq. Is there another page that has the " MORE COMPLETE DETAILS AND A PARTS DIAGRAM" ?
@@tomrmalcolm Thanks for the heads up, and sorry for the problem. We have corrected the link, so you should be able to see all the parts. www.thervgeeks.com/how-to-connect-a-gas-grill-to-an-rv/
I had watched your video due to the email you send us but needed to come to youtube so i can give you a thumbs up! Always useful stuff, thank you so much.
Nice setup and explanation Peter. I've thought of doing this but thought it would limit where I could setup the grill. Your long hose setup solves that problem. I would also use it for my Little Buddy Heater which also uses canisters. How lucky am I to have had the privilege of sharing meat from your grill.
Thanks Brian. That extra 12' length of hose really helps, allowing us to set up anywhere alongside the RV. We can also move the barbecue anywhere we want by removing the male quick connect on the grill and using a canister (although we never do, as we always set up somewhere along the curb side of the rig anyway). We have a very similar set-up for our Kozy World heater, with a quick connect on each end of the hose so we can coil it up and put it away when not in use. We'll probably be using it when we see you, so we'll have to compare notes as we "share meat" LOL
Looks like there is another regulator though on the grill after you plug in. I did same thing but the reg on my Colman doesn’t let the flame be true to low med high. Need to figure out a way to bypass the Coleman’s regulator but still have low med high
I had to remove the regulator from my grill because the RV had one already on it close to the tanks. If you have 2 regulators in the same line you may not be able to get enough pressure to the grill. That is why I had to remove the one that came on the grill. My grill is the Weber Q1000.
Correct. The grill connection the RV manufacturers provide is connected to low-pressure propane (after the onboard regulator… typically 11-inch water column which is about 0.5psi). In that case, the pressure is too low. You can either remove the regulator in the grill… or not use the built-in grill connection and install an Extend-a-Stay like we did.
Thank you! Just what I needed. Our Class A doesn’t have a connection for a grill, but it already has the Extend-A-Stay fitting on the propane tank. I was wondering what that thing was. However, I think there is a better way for me. The ¼” copper propane line to the furnace is in the compartment where I want the connection. So, I was thinking of just adding a T with a valved quick connect to that line. Then I would just need a hose with the fittings on each end & on the grill. Actually, it’s a small Blackstone griddle.
It is my understanding that connecting to a Weber Traver pressure regulator will cause low flame because the regulator is set for tank pressure. I have read that you have put a t past the grill regulator to get it to work with the trailer low pressure gas system.
Another great video. I've been thinking about how to do this for quite some time. We have a BBQ grill and an outdoor stove/oven which I sometimes run simultaneously. I will need some sort of Y adaptor or T/splitter of some sort.
This setup did not work for me because of the propane is going through two regulators. The first regulator brings the pressure down enough to be sufficient but the regulator on the Weber will not let enough propane pass through it. :(
I've heard issues with having the second regulator right at the grill. Issues of not enough propane getting through. Can you remove the regulator and plug the quick connect right into the grill
Hi Julian. That issue occurs when the first regulator drops the pressure too low to meet the input pressure requirement for the second regulator. That's why we went with the 15psi regulator at the tank side. It's plenty high enough for the input to the grill's regulator, but low enough to prevent the oily build-up in the hose. If you're going to completely remove the regulator from the grill, you'd want to match the regulator at the tank end to whatever the output from the grill's regulator was. Which, if the grill's regulator dropped pressure down to 11" Water Column (or 0.5 PSI), then you'd want to tee in AFTER your RV's onboard regulator which is also 11" WC. Hope that makes sense.
We have an '04 Beaver and have been grappling with just this issue. The RV repair shops are no help at all. We have been direct connecting to the tank with a 12' hose but it is inconvenient and not terribly safe because of the propane discharge each time we disconnect. This information is brilliant and so useful!!! With your clear procedures and links to products, we finally have a solution. Thank you RV Geeks!!!! One question - could a capable RV Mobil handyman install the extend a stay? That may be beyond my comfort zone - propane is frightening stuff!
Hi Colleen! Thanks so much for your nice note. Glad we could offer up a potential solution for you. We do indeed love our setup. As far as installing the Extend-a-Stay, there is no doubt that any RV handyman could do it, because we have no professional tech training at all, and it was a breeze. It's designed and sold as a consumer product with the idea that the average handy RVer can install it easily, and we'd agree... not hard at all. So if you're unsure about working on a propane line and would be more comfortable having a mobile RV handyman do it, we say that if you find a guy who's in the business of working on RVs, and he tells you he can't install it, don't have him work on ANYTHING on your RV, since he might not be qualified! ;-)
As always, I turn to the RV Geeks for direction whenever doing an update. This time hooking my portable grill to the RV propane tank instead of the little green bottles.
Always a helpful and well done video. I want to also compliment you on how nicely you maintain your motorhome. It always looks showroom fresh and detailed in every compartment and nook and cranny! I love seeing your big Newmar in the videos and appreciating all of your detailing efforts. I'm the same way. I own a couple of classic show cars and I understand how important it is to have every nut and bolt detailed. I keep our RVs in the same condition. My family and friends think I'm crazy but it's a labor of love. I think an individual either gets it or they don't. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to the next video!
Thanks so much, Terry! Nothing "crazy" about taking care of your gear. When I (Peter) got my first car, my Dad was irritated at how much water I used by washing it almost every day! LOL I can think of a lot worse hobbies.
Thanks for the information. I've had a similar hookup in my 5th wheel for several years and had the oil in regulator problem, it ruined the regulator! Now I know why and will put your info to work when I extend my "new" coach lines for BBQ use.
The first time our grill stopped working and we pulled the regulator and found oil, we were like "What the heck is that?!" Who knew? So glad we could help share this odd problem and its solution. :)
Yup! The “low” pressure at that first regulator is 15 psi, which is FAR more than needed to pressure the grill, even with the grill’s regulator in place.
Thank you so much! I was told by a propane "expert" that what you were doing was not possible (he told me you could not have a regulated propane line go into another regulator because "it would not have enough pressure to go through the second regulator")... Guess he was full of gas. And many thanks for the parts list so that I could see what parts I needed and that they actually exist.
+Barney Gargle LOL Guess we've been eating our meals raw without realizing it. 😉 The only thing he's right about is that two 11" water column regulators would prevent there from behind enough pressure. Good thing we used that 15 PSI unit for the first one.
I've been wondering about this very point for years! My question is this - what psi is the regulator on the onboard propane tank for my class C (or any RV for that matter)? It splits up to feed my refrig, cooktop, furnace and generator. But I'm removing the generator. If I convert the propane line to the generator to a quick connect, do I then have to remove the regulator in the Weber Q grill as is shown in other videos? When I saw you had 2 regulators (the new 15 psi on coming off your stay awhile and one on your grill) I was wondering how that works, which you have answered. So I assume I'd have to remove the regulator on the grill when hooking up to the quick connect. If using a tank then I'd have to be sure to use a hose with a regulator.
I've just recently done something similar Peter, but instead of taking it from the tank, where there was already a quick disconnect prior to the regulator, I noticed I have a bank (manifold) on the passenger side, so I chose to take out the one and only 'plug' and after picking up some parts and a new quick connect (with shutoff), I can now BBQ on the passenger side. I have the same BBQ you do Peter, but some years earlier I'd taken the regulator off of the BBQ so it could be used with our truck/camper, which was 'after' the regulator, so I again needed the supply from after the regulator again, which it is from the propane bank/manifold! So it now has the correct pressure being after the coaches regulator as well. Only issue at this time is that I have to leave the compartment door open when using it, so I'll eventually rig up a setup where I can pass the hose through, which will have to have some kind of grommet/door on it, to keep all the critters out! :)
That's great, Dale! There are many ways to tackle this project... and having (1) a propane manifold accessible and (2) a grill with the regulator already removed is a great combo! Hope you have an awesome grilling season! 😉
I hacked a brand new Q1200. Took regulator off and replaced with quick change male propane connector, made a hose. Now I simply hose into RV with quick change, no more pound cylinders. I attached a female plug to the removed regulator so I can still use the grill on the beach with the one pound cylinder if needed. At home, I quick change it into a 20 pound grill tank with a female end on the hose. All three ways work flawless. Q1200 rocks!
I see that you put the wall pass-through in the recess behind the outer edge of your passenger side slide. For those of us without a slide, there will have to be a spot that will work. This is one of the first modifications I will be making to my (new to me) RV. I will be setting it up so that I can run more than one propane-using item at a time, however. I envision a grill, a griddle, and perhaps also a propane post light. Thanks for posting this, the part about a close-to-the-tank regulator is key information.
Thanks for the video. So, you have a second regulator that remains on the grill still? Does the already-regulated gas just pass through with virtually no change? Was wondering why you still had the second regulator on the grill side.
Great question! We do still have the original regulator on the grill. The reason it works, and provides enough flow, is because the first one is a step-down regulator, which brings the pressure down to 15 psi. That is still far higher than the regulator on the grill, which is closer to about 1/2 psi. The reduction in pressure along the line prevents oil buildup in the hose, but it’s still high enough to provide plenty of flow for the grill. That higher pressure also means that the grill’s regulator is indeed still required.
Thanks! Oh yeah... the sizzle came later. LOL It took us a few tries to get this one right, but we think we finally have a perfect setup for ourselves. Very happy with it since we added the 15 PSI regulator.
I just purchased a new travel trailer that has the quick connect under the frame. I am being told that it will not work on my weber q1200 like yours because it would be double regulated. do you have any problem with that or did you modify in any way. It looks like you kept the regulator on the grill as well as the regulator off the tee. Thanks, Tim
I replicated your setup on my coach about two years ago. It has been working great all this time but recently I began to notice a propane smell when I would open up the valve at the propane tank. Turns out the 15psi regulator had started leaking after just two years. The part is still available from Amazon so hopefully the replacement will last longer.
Thanks guys - this is exactly what I needed now with colder weather. My tank is on the passenger side next to the door so it will be a lot easier to connect.
Hey Guys - I ordered the parts and was looking at the instructions again. Once that regulator is installed something is going to have to be connected to the top of it all the time isn't it? If so I need to check clearances and order a valve or something. Thanks Bill
Bill Long Since we didn't install any type of shut-off valve in the line heading over to the grill, we do indeed have to keep something connected to it at all times. Even when we disconnect the grill, the only thing stopping propane from just rushing out of the hose is the quick-connect at the grill side. If your set-up requires you to disconnect the entire hose going to the grill from the tank for any reason, you will indeed need a shut-off valve on the tank end of the hose. Hope we understood your question correctly!
Thanks for the info. I did the same thing except i removed the regulator from the grill and put a quick fit on it so that i can take the grill away from the RV and still use it with the small tanks. The regulator on the grill is not used when attached to the RV main propane tank as it's regulated from the RV tank.
This gas control valve replaces the valve with your Olympian 5500 RV grill (CAM57305 - sold separately). And it lets you use a propane supply on an RV or trailer that has a built-in Quick-Connect propane connection
With your 15 psi regulator at he RV propane tank, Do you still need the regulator at the BBQ? To set up my BBQ, I have to remove the hose and regulator that comes with the BBQ, and install the quick connect directly to the BBQ. I have found your channel to be the best for tips and tricks, etc. Thanking you in advance.. Fred
Hi Fred. Thanks! Glad you enjoy our content (means a lot to hear that). And to answer your question, yes you still need the regulator at the grill. 15psi is WAY too much pressure for the grill to run at... would likely be like cooking over a blowtorch!! Your best bet would be to identify what pressure the built-in regulator that you have to remove was reducing the pressure to. If it's 11" WC (11" water column... which is about 0.5psi), then you'd be better off tee-ing in AFTER your RV's onboard regulator (which also brings it down to 11" WC) and feeding that directly into the grill. Hope this helps!
@@RVgeeks Thank you guys so much. I was at a BBQ store, and they (a KID basically ) said I did not need the regulator that came with the BBQ and the Firepit, because I had the 15 PSI regulator , as per your video. I tired it without, and could've melted all the snow up here. LOL Thanks again.
GREAT information, as usual, with great clarity. I also noticed the use of the two regulators and was going to question you on this use, but you gave a Super detailed explanation in your reply to someone else. Did you figure this out yourself or was there someone else involved in the process? Thanks. Later...Terry
Thanks Terry! We mostly figured out the whole set-up ourselves, with the exception of the fact that high pressure can cause oil to accumulate in long propane hoses. The first time we ever heard an explanation of where that oily build-up had come from was when we went to connect our RV to an external propane tank the winter we spent up north. The local propane dealer who sold us the parts we needed for that told us that we'd need a regulator on the big external tank (which you can see briefly in this video and in detail in our video about that topic) because we needed a fairly long hose to reach the RV. When he told us about high-pressure propane causing oil build-up in long runs of hose, a light bulb went off, since we'd had that then-mysterious problem once before, but had no idea why. We thought we'd just gotten a bad batch of propane. ;-) When it comes to exactly what regulators we used to reach the grill, we chose the 15 PSI after some experimenting. We'd first tried a standard 11" water column unit, but the grill would not stay lit, since we were double regulating (TWO 11" water column units in the same line). It turns out that we needed to "step down" by bringing the pressure down part way to prevent the oil, then regulating at the grill to the required level. As we mentioned, if the regulator had been easy to remove from the grill, we could instead have simply moved it to the other end of the hose, right off the T and only needed one instead of two. We're always learning! :)
If you have a pressure regulator on your external propane tank as shown in the winter months, won't the on board tank empty first before allowing use of the external tank?
Good question, Jim. But you don’t leave both tanks on at the same time. We usually turn the on-board tank off... and use it as the “emergency spare” in case the external tank runs out. In that case, we turn the external tank off, then the on-board tank gets turned on.
If you are using the more typical 30 lb bottles (or even 20), you can get a brass "tee" for about 35 bucks that connects right to the bottle and then connects to the RV hose same as before but also has a take off for a hose to the bbq. The hose is about another 35 bucks. Problem solved. Of course that means your bbq has to be withing about 8 feet of the tank (or however long those hoses are) but I have this system and it works quite well. The biggest reason to get one of these tees and a hose is the money. Ya, you got to drop about $70 for the tee and the hose. But around here in Canada a 1 lb green bottle goes for about $4, whereas the 30 lb bottle fills for about $1 a pound. It's a 75% reduction in cost to run the bbq! Doesn't take long to pay for itself. When you buy the little green bottles, the portability is excellent, but you are mostly paying for the steel bottle not the propane. If you hardly use your bbq the green bottles are probably the way to go but if you go through a bunch of green bottles a year the tee and hose is the way to go. I still always carry a couple of green bottles though. I used to carry them in case we wanted to use the Coleman lantern but who uses them anymore since they came out with LED lanterns? But I still put my outdoor stove out once in a while. Not very often because there is a perfectly good stove in the RV but we do use it occasionally.
Very informative video! I don't have any experience with propane so this video was very helpful and it looks like an excellent alternative to those small bottles. I am wondering though about how much your RV propane tank holds and how long that amount of propane will last you? How often do you have refill it? Thanks for the terrific videos! I can't wait to get started RVing!
Mike... that’s true if the output from the first regulator isn’t high enough to be input to the second one. The 15psi regulator at the tee is plenty of pressure as input for the grill’s regulator. No double regulation problem.
You guys have provided such a valuable service to all RV'ers. This was just what I needed to hear. I will get the quick connect pieces for my portable Weber grill (just like yours but red). One question: My RV is a 1997 Class C Tioga Montara by Fleetwood. The propane tank is original. How safe is it to keep this tank? Before I make any mods to it, do I need another tank? It looks mildly rusty here and there, but functions fine. I had to remove a solenoid when I installed the gas leak detector (newer model) - and got this done professionally.
Thanks for the nice comments, Lass! You should absolutely get your propane tank inspected by a professional. Rust is a potential danger, and propane (especially under pressure) is nothing to take chances with.
Thanks for all the great videos such wonderful RV support! Our RV has connections & we use them for the installed outside propane cook top & RV grill that came with our RV, along with the provided quick connect hoses that were provided. I’ve always wanted to upgrade to the weber grill because of how good they work VS the low quality provided RV grill. So, from what I can understand (correct me if my wrong) all I need to the weber is install a quick connect fitting then I’m good to go in using the RVs on board propane?
Thanks for the nice comment and great question! Whether you can use the propane grill connection that came on your RV depends on a couple of things. The main one is whether that propane connection is already regulated or not. The Weber, as with most small portable grills, come with a built-in regulator. That's because they're designed to connect to high-pressure propane bottles, and they have to regulate that high pressure down to use it. If your RV's propane outlet is already regulated down to lower pressure, that means connecting the Weber up to it, with it's own additional regulator, would mean double-regulation. That would likely not provide enough pressure for the grill to run. The easiest way to tell if your RV's propane line for the grill is already regulated or not is to look at the grill that came with your RV. If it has a regulator built on to it (like the one you can see on our Weber), then the system pressure should be high enough to run the Weber, too. If there's no regulator on your current grill, the line feeding it is almost certainly regulated down already, which means the Weber probably won't work. We're guessing that your small grill probably DOES have a regulator on it, which means you should be good to go with a Weber. We doubt the manufacturer would make it impossible to replace the grill with another one. The only other thing you'd need to do is confirm that the quick-connect on the RV matches the quick-connect that you install on the Weber. Hope this helps a bit. Please let us know if you see anything that doesn't jibe with what we've described. And also let us know how you make out if you are able to go ahead with the Weber.
This is a great video and I like all the details you added, I do have one question or maybe I'm just not seeing it, but what type of fitting was used to connect the two extension hoses together? I'm planning to implement this mod on my Big Horn 5th wheel this spring. Thanx
+Jean Lavoie Thanks Jean! The two extension hoses connect together with no special fitting needed. One end of each is female and the other ends are the matching male fitting, so they connect right up no problem!
i notice that your propane goes thru 2 regulators now, the second being the bbq's regulator, does this impede flow for the grill itself? or do you still get a nice high flame? thanks, Richard
Flame is great! The first (red) regulator is much higher pressure - 15 PSI - than the second one, allowing plenty of pressure for the grill. The red regulator is just a step-down to the final pressure the grill requires.
Great video. So if I just wanted a quick connect on the basement door (opposite side)for a BBQ or fire pit only I would connect to the rv side of the regulator? I really want a Y to add a quick connect to the floor by the driver seat for a big buddy heater also. I think all this can be done after the rv regulator. I will use your links to see if I can order the parts . thanks
Hi Jim. Technically, yes you can do what you’re saying and connect your quick connect on the RV side of the regulator. But doing that will require you to either remove the regulator from your grill, or buy a grill that does not have one and can run off low propane pressure. Do you likely also wouldn’t be able to run a propane fire pit from the RV side of the propane supply because the pressure and flow are too low. That’s why the Extend-a-Stay is a good option because it enables you to tap into the high-pressure propane needed for devices like grills and portable fire pits.
@@RVgeeks thanks I didnt think about the pressure needed for a fire pit. Lol that changes everything. I would like to put a big buddy heater up by the drivers side seat. I think you are right though. Before the regulator is better. Thanks
It would indeed create a problem if they were both low-pressure regulators (about 0.5 PSI, like the one on the grill itself). But the red one is a 15PSI regulator that steps down the pressure while still leaving plenty to operate the grill.
Nice video but I just confused myself by looking at way to many comments. So I have a quick connect valve that came installed on my trailer. I purchased the Weber Q2200 grill. Same as your just differnt BTU's I believe. I would like to just connect a 12" quick connect hose hose from the trailer to the grill so I can use the trailers propane but move away from trailer. I also would like to leave the regulator on the bbq in case I need to use it at home with the small propane bottles. I purchased a Camco quick connect 12' extension hose and a Camco low pressure 1/4 male NPT qucik connect fitting. What part should work coming from the bbq regulator so I can use the quick connect set up? You guys are awesome!!!
LOL! You're not alone, Stefanie... it can get REALLY confusing. We're not sure what part you'll need to do what you want... but we CAN tell you that it likely won't work the way you want it to. Almost every RV manufacturer that we know of that includes a propane quick-connect for you to connect a grill to has that quick-connect in the LOW pressure propane line (i.e. downstream/after the onboard propane regulator that drops the propane pressure to just 11" water column, or 0.5psi). Which means you need to remove the regulator from any grill you connect to it. Otherwise, there's not enough pressure coming from the RV to get the grill's regulator to open up and allow flow. Before buying any more parts, you may want to either sleuth out where the line that the factory-installed quick-connect is installed in goes (so you can figure out if it's got high- or low-pressure propane) OR contact your RV manufacturer and ask. Hope this helps!
You're running propane through a regulator twice? Are you getting any pressure at the appliance? Doesn't that reduce your propane pressure to the point of it not burning at capacity?
As we said in the video, yes, we're running through two regulators, and it works perfectly. The reason is that the commonly referred-to "double regulation" problem happens when you use two 11" WC (water column... the standard appliance regulator that equals about 0.5 PSI). We're not doing that. The first regulator is 15 PSI, about 30 times more pressure than the one on the grill. That supplies plenty of pressure to the grill's regulator, and is simply in place to reduce tank pressure (which can typically run well over 100 PSI) down in the long hose from the tank to the grill. That's only needed to prevent oily build-up, which can happen (and clog the grill's regulator) when running extremely high pressure over a long run. It's simply a step-down, not double regulation.
I hacked my Q1200 before I ever turned it on. If RV tanks are regulated at exit, you will need to remove the regulator from the grill. Never more than one regulator in line, and always must have one. I also put a quick change on the regulator I removed so I can still use one pound tanks away from RV. I also added a quick change to the end of a standard 20 pound grill set up so I just plug it into grill while on the deck.
Great explanation. Can alway,s count on you to give accurate information. Not so with other sites. Keep up the good work as I alway,s look forward to your video's . Thanks from Canada.
Great question, Emmett! The unregulated propane comes out of the tank at very high pressure (can easily exceed 100 PSI), then goes through the red 15 PSI regulator as kind of a "step-down" for the trip across to the other side of the RV in the long hose. That reduction to 15 PSI prevents the accumulation of oil in that long run of hose. But 15 PSI isn't nearly low enough for the grill which runs on about 0.5 PSI. That second regulator on the grill takers care of that, and the 15 PSI feeding it is plenty to get the job done. Works like a charm.
Thanks for all the tips. You talk about oil damaging the grill regulator when using high pressure gas. Can the regulator be cleaned or do you have to buy a new one?
RV Geeks Thanks for your informative video. Like you, I wanted to take advantage of my large RV LP tank to supply gas to my Q1200 Weber grill. A friend helped me install a brass tee after the tank, before the RV’s LP regulator. When I noticed some oil drips from the grill’s control valve (same problem you had), I called Webber and they advised me that I had probably damaged the grill because it could not be hooked up to a large RV tank. When I explained my tee was BEFORE the RV’s regulator (so it was not double-regulated) she was sure I had damaged something and so would need install a new regulator/control assembly. Questions: 1. Have I damaged this grill by not having a 15 PSI regulator after my tee and before the grill? 2. I plan on installing your recommended high pressure 15 PSI regulator, which means I will have it double - regulated. I’m sure that you didn’t have any problems with your grill but, will this create any problems with my Q1200? 3. Do you think I really need to replace my regulator assembly? Thanks for your help with this. Jim
Hi Jim. Sorry to hear about your trouble. Having oil clog your grill's regulator is a real bummer. In response to your questions: (1) We can't imagine that you've damaged the grill in any way other than getting it gummed up with oily residue. When it happened to ours, we used some isopropyl alcohol to clean it out... making sure it was completely and thoroughly dry before we ran propane through it again... and it worked just fine. The oil didn't cause any real problem other than gumming things up and reducing flow. (2) We haven't noticed any problems with our grill since installing our system. Some people have thought theirs might not be grilling quite as hot as before installing the 15psi regulator... but we can't say we've noticed any difference. Be sure to get the same parts that we list in our post about installing this ( www.thervgeeks.com/propane/bbq-grill-connection/ ). Not all parts are created to provide full flow of propane... so you may find a similar one that has the same connections, but that restricts the amount of propane flowing through the system... thus you'll get lower heat. (3) As mentioned above... we'd try just cleaning it first. Your onboard propane tank's pressure shouldn't be significantly different than a disposable cylinder or portable 20-lb propane tank. And those connect directly to the Weber's controller/regulator without a problem. So clean it first to be sure it's not clogged before assuming it's been damaged. But we think you'll be fine. And with the 15psi regulator keeping the pressure in the hose down, you shouldn't have any issues with oil ever again! Hope this helps! And let us know how you make out!
@@RVgeeks Thanks for your quick/detailed response. The Weber lady said she had 20 years with Weber and knew that it would not work with an RV and that I had damaged it and caused the oil leak (that I needed to buy another part). It seems that they'd want this big RV market's extra sales and so would engineer & sell the parts required (make the profit$ for Weber vs. hassle the Customer). Maybe you can contact them and become their Consultant. I did not see your Parts List the first time I looked at this so I have installed a brass tee and 12' hose that screws directly into the Weber regulator (no quick disconnect). I'll be ordering the 15 PSI regulator you recommend and then clean off the oil and... should be good to go. You provide us beginners a great service, thanks again!
Our pleasure, Jim. It is strange that the Weber employee was so certain you’d damaged the controller. It’s possible she’s assuming the oil will damage something in it... but that wasn’t our experience. Removing it and pouring some rubbing alcohol in, shaking it up, and draining it got it all out and it worked fine ever after. If nothing else, it’s worth the try rather than replacing the controller. Please let us know how you make out!
@@RVgeeks Agree. I think she's been told for 20 years that it will NOT work with a big RV LP tank and that if this is done, it will damage the Weber. Again, I do not understand the Weber business strategy on this anti-RV policy and their adamant employee training. I'll be ordering the regulator, doing the cleaning and then let you know.
Curious if it would be safer with black pipe or copper under and through the coach. Or even the yellow gas pipe. Just because the rubber hose can deteriorate over time.
Hi Kevin. Might be a more robust installation that way. But it would be a lot more difficult to install. Ours has been working great for many years without a problem though, so this seems like a pretty good compromise.
Thank you for this detailed information! Got all the necessary parts from your website´s links. Quick question though: with the grill adaption to the tee, that is between the tank and the regulator, once you open the tank´s valve is there no gas escaping through the grill´s hose? If not, is it not escaping because the quick adapter´s valve, or would it be enough without that quick adapter to avoid gas escaping (or would I need then to connect and disconnect it all the time)? Thanks in advance!
Good question, Alfredo. Yes, the quick-connector by the grill has a shutoff so that propane doesn't leak when you disconnect the grill from it. We've also been meaning to install another shutoff valve between the tee and the 12' hose coming across to the grill... so that, when needed, we could shut off the flow of propane in that hose, without also having to turn off the whole RV's tank. That would also add another layer of safety to ensure no leaks. But, even without it, we haven't had a problem.
Silly question and maybe I missed it. But the grill has a regulator as well, so would you not be double regulating the propane pressure here? Also if I were to remove the male quick connect from the grill, could I use the lithe green bottles again if needed?
Great question! The only problem you'd have with double regulation is using two of the typical 11" water column regulators, which equals about 0.5 PSI and are the same type that come fitted to the grill. We overcame that problem by using a 15 PSI regulator where the hose comes out of the RV's tank. That is low enough pressure to prevent the oily build-up in the hose, but plenty strong enough pressure to avoid a double regulation issue. And yes, you can easily remove the quick-connect from the grill any time you'd like to use the little bottles again, such as during a trip away from the RV.
If I have no need of connecting an large external tank, would there be a problem with connecting on the regulated side of the RV propane tank and not having to install the additional regulator?
Hi Brian! Because the RV’s main regulator drops of pressure down to 11 inch water column, which is about 0.4 psi, the only way you can do that is to remove the regulator from the grill. That’s because the grill’s regulator is expecting high pressure, and having two 11 inch water column regulators in line causes the “double regulation“ problem and the grill won’t have enough pressure to work.
My only word of caution would be that squirrels like to chew on rubber propane hoses. With the hose exposed to the outside this makes this a little vulnerable to damage. We have pretty much the same setup but I installed a valve off the extend a stay so that the grill hose is not pressurized.
Great idea. We've been thinking about the same thing, but since we're full-time, we always have the grill line powered up (we use it about every other day all year round) and when we leave the RV for any extended period, we shut off the main propane valve on the tank itself. If we do add a valve there, we'll be sure to report back! Thanks. :)
QUESTION: It looks like your grill has a built in regulator, which would make double regulators, one on the grill and one in you plumbing at the bottle, am I missing something?
Hi Wayne! There are two regulators, but the first one, the red one, is 15 psi to act as a step down regulator. The one on the grill is far lower. If the red one were the same type as the one on the grill, we would indeed have double regulation, and the grill wouldn’t work. But the 15 psi is still plenty high enough to get enough pressure to the grill.
@@Flamingpins Sounds like it's possible that your propane tank's excess flow regulator may have been triggered during the install (does anything else in your RV light? Have you tried your stovetop?). It's intended to stop the flow of propane if it detects a sudden release (i.e. a hose burst, etc). But it can accidentally trigger if the flow from the tank starts suddenly (like when you turned it back on after installing the propane T, etc). To reset it, try this: (1) Turn off the valve on the propane tank (2) Bleed off the pressure in the lines... both in the RV (i.e. turn on a burner on the stove) and the BBQ (turn it on to bleed pressure)... just make sure you've got a window open and proper ventilation!! (3) Turn off the stove & BBQ (4) SLOWLY open the valve on the propane tank and let it pressurize all lines (5) Turn on a burner on your stovetop and allow it to flow until you smell propane... turn it off and let the smell clear (windows open, etc)... then try lighting it until it runs steadily (6) Once propane is flowing to the stovetop, do the same with your BBQ... and you should be all set! If that doesn't do it (or if the flow to your RV's stovetop was fine all along and it was just the grill that was the problem), you may have to check all the connections between the tank and the BBQ. Are you sure you installed the T between the tank and your onboard regulator (not after)? If not, your grill won't be receiving high enough pressure to open its regulator and allow flow. Try disconnecting each of the lines between the tank and the grill... the 1" connections can have stopper valves in them, and one of them may not be opening. Disconnecting and reconnecting them may make sure they seat properly. That's about all we can think of at the moment... but hope one of the above gets you back up and running.
I did the same thing, except I had to remove the regulator from my grill because I wasn't getting enough pressure. I have the same grill, just a little larger. Been working fine for years now. I love not carrying around a 20lb tank.
Ok, I don't get it. Some say, and as is shown in this video, they leave the grill regulator on and have no problems. Others have issues and remove the regulator. What's the difference?
Well, I think a comment below answered. In the video, the LP is regulated to 15 psi which is high enough pressure for the grill's on-board regulator to do its thing. Using the normal 0.5 psi lines, such as on an RV, isn't enough pressure for many grills to work properly.
this is a great video about propane use even if you are not using it in the exact set-up you have. Thanks for some good solid information. You wouldn't by chance be an engineer would you?
I have that same grill. Is the regulator on the grill not sufficient? My tank is on the passenger side of my rig, and already under my patio awning, so 6 feet of hose will be plenty. My fish cooker also has its own regulator. What say you?
RVgeeks - I have a class A that has a port on the passenger side for just this use. I purchased and hooked up everything in your post here from that port to the grill (same grill as yours). I had no pressure at all. So I took the hose and connectors apart and started putting them on, opening the gas on each one to see where the flow stops. It stopped with the hose. I get nothing coming from the hose when I open the gas. I tested this by opening the line slowly and listening for the gas, but nothing happens. What do you recommend? (I'm using all the parts from this posting). As always, thank you for your help. These posts really help people like me.
Hi Daniel! We're pretty sure that the first problem your having is the connection on the hose. Some have a little plunger in the end that seals when not connected to another fitting. That means the fitting that goes into it has to include the pin that pushes into the opposing fitting to allow propane to flow. The end of the hose is self-sealing, and needs that pin to push into it to open the flow. Also, it's quite possible that even if you get the propane to flow, it might not work with your port. If your port is already regulated down to 11" WC (eleven inches water column, or standard operating pressure), you'll either need to remove the regulator on you grill (we know... it's part of the control knob so not easy to do), or get a grill with no regulator on it. You should be able to check with your manufacturer to find out if the port is already regulated to 11" WC. If it is, a non regulated grill is required to prevent double regulation, which limits the flow below what the grill requires to operate. Hope this isn't too confusing, and hope it helps.
@@RVgeeks You were right on the issue... I actually just took a small drill bit and drilled out the plunger part and then removed the regulator ... works every time. Thanks all.
Hi Guys! I had tried this exact setup and wasn't getting any propane flow to my grill...conversely I started smelling propane leaking from somewhere (abort, abort!). Looking at this video again, it looks like there is another regulator on the grill side of the quick connect, is that correct? I really want to do this not just because of the convenience, but those little disposable green tanks are bad for the environment! Thank you.
So sorry we just saw your comment! Sorry for the delayed reply. Yes, there is indeed a regulator built onto the grill. That’s required, and comes with the grill, because the propane feeding into it is still too high pressure. The red step-down 15 psi regulator we installed over near the tank simply reduces the huge pressure in the tank to a more modest level. But it’s still not low enough for the grill, which requires the same psi as most other RV appliances. That pressure is commonly known as “11 inches water column” which equates to approximately 0.5 psi.
Peter, what was the performance problem that developed with the grill before you put the regulator inline and found the oil in the regulator? I have mine basically the same way, a 15PSI regulator before a 15 foot hose that will connect to my Weber Q2000 just before the regulator. I wrote Weber and they say since my burner will only light half way around until I brush the burner with a metal brush back towards the inlet, that it may be a double regulated pressure situation. The burner is clean as a whistle. Does the same on the small bottle of propane also. Thanks.
Hi Jerry! When we had oil in the grill’s regulator, the grill showed low flame (not hot enough to grill), it would sputter, and sometimes would go out completely. We don’t recall it ever exhibiting the problem you’re describing, but that could be because the Q1000 is smaller. If your grill is having the exact same problem when you use the small bottle of propane or when you’re hooked to the RV’s onboard tank, we’d say that you’re definitely having an issue with the regulator on the grill itself... and it’s certainly possible that it has oil in it... or it’s faulty. If it was a “double-regulation” issue, it should work normally when you run it off the small bottle, since there’s not a second regulator then. Hope that helps!
Most high end caravans (travel trailers) here in the UK come with a BBQ point fixed already to the outside which are connected to the gas bottles in the front locker. I've personally never used mine as I prefer to burn my food in the comfort of inside......not outside where everyone can see and smell it :/ Mind you, I can't be that bad as when I do cook inside, my smoke alarm is usually cheering me on so...........
Technically, hoses rated for over normal operating pressure is considered a high pressure LP hose. Operating system components and hoses only need to be rated at around 1/2 psi.
Hi and thanks for the demonstration! I’m curious if you have ever dealt with situations where spacing is much tighter between the vapor exit and the regulator box such as on a Coachmen Freelander (Class C)? The tank appears to be the same as yours, however it appears that I would literally need to cut into or relocate the regulator box cover in order to make something work since there appears to be only about 1 inch of spacing between the two. Any advice would be appreciated. I can also send a photo upon request. Thanks.
Brandon Guffey Hi Brandon! We’ve only ever done this on our own Class A, with (obviously) plenty of extra room to work with. We know that with some Class Cs and other smaller rigs, space can be at a real premium. We think you you probably only have two options… One would be to move the onboard regulator to make room for the Extend-A-Stay, assuming you have room to do that. The other option would be to tee in (probably using a regular T fitting, and not an Extend-A-Stay) after the regulator, then use a grill that specifically can handle working with the lower pressure of the already regulated propane. That would probably mean finding a grill that did not have a regulator on it, and was designed to work off fully regulated house RV pressure. Hope this helps a bit.
We are looking to do this with our travel trailer. We have quick connects available already at the camper but need to connect to our coleman roadtrip from the one pound tanks to a hose we have purchased already. do you have a list of the connectors that you used
Hi! Not only do we have a list of every part we used, but links to them and a diagram of the whole thing to boot. You can find all that here on the related post on our website. Hope this is helpful: thervgeeks.com/propane/bbq-grill-connection/
How did you find this works with having 2 regulators. I was told you had to remove the regulator on the bbq if going through the RV 2 stage regulator. I see you are going through the single stage that you added and the bbq reg.
This worked great, because the first regulator (the red one we installed right above the Extend-a-Stay) only brings the pressure down to 15 PSI. Since that's far lower than 11 inches water column (which only equals about 0.4 PSI), there was plenty of pressure to power the grill with its original regulator still in place. We originally tried using an 11" water column regulator at the T (instead of the 15 PSI unit) and indeed there was not enough pressure to keep the grill lit because of double regulation. So the 15PSI unit is low enough to prevent oil from forming in the hose, but high enough to avoid having to remove the grill's built-in regulator (which would have been a challenge on this particular grill).
Question for you, i thought of doing that but i figured out that there would be two regulators in line. One on the BBQ and the other you installed at the tank end. Does that reduce it too much?
Hey Mike! Great question. Two regulators MIGHT be too much of a pressure reduction, depending on which type you use. Here are some clarifying notes about our regulators and why we set them up the way we did. We mentioned that the main one going into the RV is 11" water column. That is a standard that just about all appliances use, including the grill. So the small built-in regulator on the grill is also 11' water column. As we mentioned, the only reason we needed to add in regulation coming off the T is to prevent the oily build-up that can occur in the long hose. But the reason we used a 15 PSI unit at the T (rather than a standard 11″ water column model) is that there wouldn’t be enough pressure to run the grill due to double regulation (having TWO 11″ water column units won’t work). We know first-hand on this one, since that was one of the first things we tried. LOL So the 15 PSI regulator at the T reduces the pressure enough to prevent oil build-up, while still providing enough input pressure for the grill’s built-in regulator. On some grills, the built-in regulator can be removed, as long as you're connecting to a line that's already regulated down to 11" water column. But in some cases, such as ours, the one on the grill is not easily removable without modification (it's part of the on/off/flow control). If it had been easily removable, we could have simply removed it and moved it to the far end of the hose (coming right off the T), eliminating the need for the extra 15 psi regulator. If we had a grill with an easily-removable regulator, and we NEVER intended to connect to external propane, we could also have connected the Extend-a-Stay downstream of the RVs main regulator, and removed the grill's regulator completely. That would send already-regulated (11" water column) propane directly across to the grill, which would now need no further regulation. Of course this would REQUIRE the removal of the grill's regulator, since, as mentioned, installing TWO 11" water column regulators in one line will prevent the grill from receiving enough pressure to operate. Hope this is clear!
This is a great video that I have looked at before. I have a new RV and a question. How long is too long for the hose to need the added regulator. My tank is on the passenger side and a 12' hose will get me to the BBQ and/or the fire pit we use. Would I still need the 2nd reg in your expert opinion??
Hi Lynn. Congrats on the new RV! We wish we had an answer to the question of "how long is too long?" We had our problem with twice that length of hose (12' hose to get across the RV from driver to passenger side, then another 12' hose to extend the grill away from the RV). So it's POSSIBLE that a single 12' hose won't have the problem. Some of that may depend on if you plan to leave the 12' hose connected to the tank permanently... or if you're going to remove it regularly when breaking camp. If leaving it on... it's more likely to be an issue (it seems to be a problem of extended time with the hose exposed to high pressure propane... particularly when the ambient temps drop). If you'll be disconnecting it on any regular basis... it will probably be fine without the regulator. But we can't be 100% sure.
@@RVgeeks Thanks for the quick response. I am not full time so will most likely disconnect the hose when we pack up. Probably the most would be a 2 week stay. I appreciate your input and enjoy watching you on the road. I look forward to the RVers and seeing more of your travels. Best to you.
So I am working on the Extend-a-stay (EAS) and shock ran into a problem. The propane tank on my Tiffin Phaeton is mounted so the end of the tank is what I see from the storage door. The connection point for the EAS has a hose to the main regulator making it difficult to mount the EAS as you and other show. I'll be using the red 15 PSI regulator but the question is - can this regulator be mounted in any position? Don't see a vent as in the main unit. I may need to be creative to get this in the bay but thought I'd ask your opinion. I have a photo but don't see how to send it to you?! Thanks for your assistance.
Hi Lynn. Sorry to hear you're having trouble... certainly sounds like Tiffin didn't make this easy for you! We're not at the RV to be able to look closely at our 15psi regulator to know if it has a vent. But we'd assume it does (even if it's not all that obvious), since it's pretty standard for a regulator. That said, when mounting a regulator, you either need to keep it covered, or mount it with the vent pointing downward... to keep rain & other debris from getting in. We don't recall paying any particular attention to how we mounted ours, since it's inside a compartment where it's unlikely to get rained on... and is mounted high enough up not to get sprayed from wet roads, etc. So if yours is similar, we'd bet you'd be OK with mounting it in whatever direction you need in order to fit it in. Hope this helps!
@@RVgeeks Thanks again. You guys are a great help. I'll check it more carefully but I believe it is well covered. Still trying various angles to get it in there!!
Your videos have been very helpful to me. Following this question from a FB group I purchased the same setup, but without the yellow tape. Question about the connection between the Cylinder thread x ¼" Male Pipe Thread Adapter and the male quick connect. This is the only connection that does not have a gasket, it would not screw in very far even if there had been a gasket and it leaked when I tested it. Will the yellow tape be sufficient or is there supposed to be an o-ring or gasket? Do I need the yellow pipe tape with the gasket connections too?
Hi Min. That connection between the male side of the quick connect and the 1"x20 Male Thread to 1/4" Female NPT thread... it should screw in fairly far (might take some extra oomph), but we would definitely use the yellow PFTE tape on it to be sure it didn't leak. And we taped all of the other connections EXCEPT the 1"x20 male-to-female connections (like between two sections of hose), since those have O-rings and gaskets and should seal tightly. If that's not what you're asking about, though, let us know.
Hello! Thanks for your video. I have the same Weber Grill and I was trying to connect a 20lb tank to it instead of using the 1lb small tanks. I bought the host for the 20lb to the Weber Q Grill, but for some reason, even though the grill is in the OFF position, gas is still coming through. The Weber Q1200 has a regulator on it, but do I still need another regulator on the Hose between the 20lb tank and Weber Grill (again, the same grill that you have)? Thanks!
Glad the video was helpful. First, in response to your question, no... you shouldn't need any other regulator between the 20lb tank and your grill. The grill's regulator is expecting the high-pressure propane from either the disposable tank or the 20#, so that part is fine. The gas still running/leaking part... that's clearly an issue! Can you tell WHERE it seems to be leaking from? Is it literally coming through the regulator and running out the burner holes? Or is it leaking somewhere else? You might want to mix some dish soap into a cup of water and pour that over the connections... if it bubbles, you've found leaking. But if the gas is coming THROUGH the regulator on the grill, even with the regulator turned off completely... it sounds like that regulator has failed and/or is faulty. If it's new, we'd return it and get a new one. If it's older... we'd try replacing the regulator. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the video. I picked up our new RV yesterday and was told not to have a regulator on the BBQ since there is one on the TV and it would be too much. What do you think?
It all depends on whether you’re tapping into the propane for the grill prior to, or downstream, of the RV’s regulator. The RV regulator brings pressure down to the correct level for running your grill without an additional regulator. If, however, you have your system set up like we do, with the hose going over to the grill coming from the high-pressure side of the regulator (the side closest to the propane tank), you absolutely do need a regulator on the grill itself.
The method in which your have propane going from the tank and through a regulator, then down the line to the BBQ and then through a second regulator at the BBQ, doesn't that pose an issue with the amount of propane thet you have going into the BBQ for a proper flame setting? Thanks
Hi Michael. Great question! The reason it's not a problem is because the red 15 PSI regulator we installed at the tank provides FAR more pressure than the grill needs to operate (it uses less than 1 PSI). That acts as a "step-down" regulator to prevent oily buid-up in the long run of hose over to the grill, while still allowing more than enough pressure for the grill to work.
Hi guys, Our RV has a quick connect built into it already and the grill we have has a regulator that is easily removed but it also controls our flame adjustment. We have read that we can not use the regulator because the quick connect on the RV is already a low pressure connection. We have seen flame controls sold separately and are wondering is this the way we would go about connecting our grill or should we just replace our grill with one that does not need a regulator? Hope this question makes sense lol. Thanks.
We're pretty sure that just about all (if not all) small grills have regulators on them. Because of that, we can't imagine that the grill port on your RV isn't designed to work with them. Have you tried it yet to see if it works? It might be plumbed to high pressure.
We have not tried it yet, and we thought the same about most portable grills having a regulator, but when we looked on the forums most people said the quick connect is a low pressure port on our Winnebago and we would not be able to connect to a grill that has a regulator. Maybe it's a brand specific issue. Thanks for your reply I think we are going to just play it safe and carry the 1lb bottles for now. We'll contact Winnebago and see what they have to say about it and let you know if we find out any info.
Contacting Winnebago sounds like a good plan, but if you want to just connect it (assuming you have a hose), there's no harm in trying. If there's an issue with double regulation, it just won't light... or will light and then go out. Let us know how you make out.
I think we are always a little too cautious, we were afraid of damaging the grill or RV. We are taking the RV out for this weekend and we'll try it out. Thanks for your help.
Hi guys, We spoke to Winnebago this morning and they said the quick connect port is a low pressure connection and that we would have to use a grill that is designed for low pressure or we could remove our regulator on our grill. We went on irv2 and it sounds like it's not just Winnebago that has it set up this way and most people say they do remove Thierry regulator and it works fine but we are apparently the oddballs that have our temperature control attached to our regulator lol. Just thought we would pass you the info. We are not sure how comfortable we are trying to modify our grill if it's really not meant to be used this way. So we'll probably just use bottles till the thing dies. Thanks again for your help and input we always appreciate your insight.
how does your grill work if it has a regulator on the feed side and a regulator on the grill itself? I already have a grill quick connect on MY RV after the house propane tank regulator. I was under the impression that you had to remove the grill regulator for this to work. I have the same weber q grill
With the propane line Tee'd in from the tank side of the RV's main regulator, it's coming from the high-pressure side. allows us to keep the original Weber regulator in place. It we were to tap in on the downstream (RV side) of the regulator, then we would indeed have to remove the grill's regulator for it to work. The red 15 PSI regulator added into the line simply steps down the very high pressure in the tank, which prevents oil buildup in the long line running over to the grill.
Instead of the double regulator, can I just disconnect the hose from the extend-a -stay valve when it's not in use or even install a propane gate valve where you have the 15# regulator-All of this is for the oil build up, correct?
Hi Craig! Since the 15-PSI regulator at the tank is indeed for the sole purpose of preventing oil build-up, your idea of either disconnecting the hose, or shutting off the flow of propane, should work great, since it's the pressure in the long length of hose that causes the oil to come out of the propane. Great question and great idea! :)
I have a camper with dual propane tanks. The propane lines are set up similar to what you did in your video, with a dedicated line running to quick connect for outdoor grill station. I am thinking of changing the configuration to use an auto changeover regulator for all of the camper's appliances. Any idea how I would split out a line to the grill station using dual propane tanks and an auto changeover regulator?
Hi Mike... sorry for the delayed response. We lost track of this comment! How you do it would depend on where your current BBQ quick-connect line is plumbed. Does it come AFTER (downstream of) the RV's regulator? If so... it should be easy to just replace it with the auto-changeover regulator and nothing else needs to be touched. But if your current "T" is placed BEFORE (upstream, closer to the tank) from your current regulator, you'd have to make some changes. You'd probably want to move the "T" to AFTER the changeover regulator (so you'd have the advantage of the propane supply for the BBQ auto-changing along with the rest of the RV) and you'd likely need to remove the regulator from your BBQ grill. The output from the RV's regulator will be too low to be an input to the grill.... so your grill would stop working. But if your grill is already a low-pressure unit, because it's getting it's propane fed by the onboard RV regulator, you should be fine. Hope this helps... and makes sense! 😉
Thanks for the great info! I have a factory installed quick connect LP connection at the rear of my TT. I bought a hose that would connect to that, and the grill (I have a Cuisinart CGG180), which also uses the 1 lb LP cans. I had a little trouble getting a good flame with that set up & I wondered if I should remove the regulator from the grill, because there is already a regulator on the LP tanks on the rig. The problem I had, when attempting that, is that the regulator must be welded to the fitting, because I could not for the life of me loosen that sucker. I was wondering if you've run into anyone reporting that same problem. I decided to leave the regulator alone for now, and just use the 1 lb LP cans. But it's kind of a bummer to have that quick connect available, and not be able to use it. Any tips? Thanks again for a great video.
Hey Phillip... you're experiencing the double-regulation issue. Your built-in propane quick connect is tapping into the propane AFTER (downstream from) the trailer's regulator, which drops the tank's pressure down to 11" Water Column (about 0.5psi) for all of the onboard appliances. Your Cuisinart grill is expecting HIGH pressure propane (from the small tanks). So the 0.5psi pressure in the line from the quick connect isn't enough for the regulator on the grill to open. So you can either remove the regulator on the grill (which sounds like it could be a problem... and, if it's like our Weber, also includes the flow control which would mean you couldn't raise/lower the flame). Or you can add an Extend-a-Stay like we used BEFORE the onboard regulator (between the tank and the onboard regulator) and run a new line. Hope that makes sense!
Great video. I just picked up a Jayco Travel Trailer and it's already pre-plumbed with the quick release plug in the back. I was looking through your links and can't quite figure out the combination I need to make mine work. I need to go from the quick connect that's already there, to get adapted to the normal 20lb propane connection that my grill has. Any suggestions to links on what I'd need to do that. I must need more than 1 or 2 things, because I can normally come up with the combo browsing Amazon, but not happening today.
Oh boy, Kraig. Can’t help you specifically on this, but a couple of things to consider. First, is that propane connection high or low pressure (before/after the onboard regulator). Because if it’s LOW pressure, you’ll need to consider that and ensure you remove the regulator from the grill. And you’ll need to know because the connectors for high pressure quick releases are different than low pressure ones, so you’ll need to be sure to get the right adapter or else it won’t work. Sorry we can’t be more help!
Yeah, I'm an idiot. I didn't realize how it connected to my current grill, I assumed it was a solid connection, but it wasn't. I threaded off the hose with the regulator, and installed a line I got on amazon and it worked like butter. I just needed a "T" for my quick coupler gas line, so I ordered one of those, and now I can have my grill and my stove burning at the same time. Thanks for the info.
If you do NOT want to have the ability to add an external LP tank, can you just add the tee AFTER the RV regulator? Then, will any portable grill work OK (many say they are designed for 1 lb or 20 lb LP tanks) -- I assume there would only be the RV regulator that would meter the proper pressure to the grill.
You CAN do that, Jim... but you'd have to be sure there's not a second regulator on the grill. For example, our Weber Q has the regulator integrated with the ON/OFF/LEVEL control knob... and while it CAN be removed, it's a bit of a pain. So using the Extend-A-Stay before/upstream of the onboard regulator ensures that the grill sees high-pressure propane. If you Tee in after/downstream of the onboard regulator your grill will only see 11" water column (about 0.5 PSI), so if it has its own regulator, it won't work. The 11" WC pressure isn't enough to open the second regulator up, so no propane will flow. Hope this helps.
Hmmm. Great question, Jean. We're not sure about that. It might not take too much length though, and we're pretty sure that the exposure to cold air exacerbates the problem. It seems like the hoses are either quite short (propane tank on the curb/grill side) or pretty long (tank on the driver's side). We're only making a slightly educated guess here, but if the hose is more than about 8-10 feet, and it's being used in the winter, we'd guess that the oil build-up problem would be more likely. Sorry we're not 100% sure on this one.
