Try using your pliers in the way they are intended to grip will stop them slipping. Also on the fitting there are insertion depth markings which will help line up your cuts if your unable to move your pipes or have no play. Also when tightening I would hold the body of the tee and do one side up at a time. Good vid though
Good spot - I was aware of it and probably should have said something at the time. At 4:06 you can see I use it properly but doing it this way the camera view gets obscured which is why I turned it the other way so people can see what I was doing. Great tip of the insertion depth markings - I'll try remember for the next video - Thanks for your comments! 🙂
I have seen it done but depends on how much pressure you have in your system & how wet you want to get while doing it 😂 Ideally turn off the pump or if you're connected to mains, close the stop cock. If you do connect while water is running, I'd suggest undoing the whole fitting and putting the nut and the white clamping ring on the MDPE pipes and then inserting the pipes into the body of the fitting. Then tighten up the nut, dry the connection and ensure there are no leaks.
@@ABUNABI2000 is there a main stop cork to the house at the roadside that you can turn off? This is where the water suppliers pipes would cross onto your property and where your water meter would usually be located.
You're correct, recommended depth for a mains supply pipe (utility) would be 750mm, which is just below the frost level. The pipe in this video is actually from my irrigation system which runs off my underground 3400 litre rain-harvesting tank. This pipe is located just below a garden fork or lawn aerator depth to avoid accidental puncture. The irrigation lines have drainage valves fitted to release excess water, which prevents freezing and damage to the pipes. The irrigation system gets turned off over winter.
Hi Melvin, pump draws from underground 3400 litre watertank through a 7m suction hose with 1inch brass connection. Pump outflow connects to MDPE pipe with a 25mm MDPE x 1inch female BSP fitting. The 25mm MDPE pipe then feeds to 5 solenoid valves controlled by a timer and rain sensor which reduce to 20mm MDPE pipes to irrigate via pop-up sprinklers (5 different controlled zones). Make sure you SUBSRCIBE as I'll be posting a series of videos on how to install the entire system & explain all the fittings.
@@gettingstuffdone thanks so much. Really like your work. Very useful information. Thanks for your reply. I have subscribed and enabled notifications :)
@@BrumGP Awesome thanks! Currently building a twin skin log cabin which is taking a bit longer with all the filming. Hope to edit irrigation footage soon :-)
Whereabout are you based? Have you tried online merchants? As example many of my claber sprinkler components I ordered online from abroad. I'm informed utility companies do not use the MDPE inserts but unable to verify that. The manufacturers I checked recommend them to strengthen the connections. Your system will still work without them if needs must - just make sure to test for leaks if installing underground.
The white Clamp is a Grip Ring ,you don't need those inserts as they are not part of the pipe or fitting and make sure you use your tools the correct way. Do not push a plain end into the fitting as it will roll the O ring and make your pipe leak always use your beveling tool to make a bevel and you can use pipe lube. The correct tension on MDPE Fittings is 1/2 a turn past hand tight. Still a good video. MDPE pipe is measured by the ID so a 20mm ID Pipe is actually 25 yours looks more like 32. Come and spend a day with me and I will teach you how to do this correctly.
Great feedback thanks Antonie. Utility companies don't seem to use inserts either, however most manufacturers I checked recommend as it keeps pipes circular to prevent leaks which is why its included. Similarly manufacturers do not bevel these sizes and insert pipes directly into compression fittings as shown in the video. My plumber plier usage is wrong as I was trying to face the camera but didn't realise people would pick up on that - my bad.. Loved the comment on correct tension, thats a nugget. In the UK we use outside diameter for our pipes, so for us blue MDPE 25mm is Outside Diameter - 25mm, Inside Diameter - 20.4mm. My irrigation systems runs on smaller 20mm which has a 15.4mm inside diameter.
I've seen Water thames at work. They only use liners (inserts) on pushfit fittings, when they fit compression fittings they just don't use inserts. I don't understand why
Might be down to cost. I looked into this a bit. Found one chat group where someone mentioned utility companies don't use it, but nothing to say why? Manufacturers & suppliers say you should, but not surprising as they sell the products.
They are not needed for compression fittings and on push fit fitting it acts as a stopper. This video is only half right and the guy is only a handy person not a tradesman as he can't use his tools correctly.
@@antonieoostendorp1616 when I've done my level 2 plumbing in college tears ago, I was thought the plastic pipe always needs insert, especially for compression that would squash and turn to oval when compression fittings are tight if not used. I't wouldn't leak but that's a bad job without and any insurance claim would be void. Mdpe and polybutylene need inserts no matter what connection you are going to use, for several reasons believe me or ask any qualified plumber or plumbing teacher
@@antoniogalluccio4213 Well let me explain something to you, I am working with this product on a Daily Basis , teaching trainees how to install it correctly to the Manufacturers SOP and I also assess these Trainees for their Trade Certificate. PVC is no longer being used or approved except for Drainage, in some countries plumbing is returning to Copper. Polybute has the insert in built to the Crimp fitting as you do not use compression couplers on PB. PB and PVC are not MDPE or the same and I can assure you the manufacturers here do not use or approve inserts as they are not required or needed
MDPE Pipe couplers and other fittings can be purchased from any building/ plumbers merchants or trade stores. Best is to shop online if delivery is possible in your area.
There's a few reasons pipes could be leaking: 1) make sure there is a washer inside the coupling in addition to the split ring & retainer nut. Also check if washer may be damaged. This is most likely the reason. 2) use inserts/liners to strengthen joints 3) check if pipe has been inserted deep enough into the connector - Check by removing retainer nut & split-ring, fitting those over the MDPE pipe first and then inserting pipe all the way before replacing the nut & split ring. 4) makes sure pipe is not cut at an angle before inserting it or 5) check if the thread on the connector is stripped in which case you'll need a new one. 6) I have once had a defective connector, manufacturer fault - switched it out and everything was fine. Let me know here if you find the reason 👍
My irrigation system runs at a pressure between 3 and 4 bar - at this pressure my MDPE compression fittings leak if they are not properly tightened. The manufacturers I have checked all recommend tightening their MDPE Fittings with a plastic MDPE fitting wrench, a fittings spanner or a strap wrench. Most DIY'ers don't own this, or like myself likely won't want to spend money on a plastic tool that would only be used a few times, which is why I use waterpump pliers. However, I do not tighten too much, so as to strip the plastic thread or damage the plastic nuts.
As far as I'm aware, Schedule 80 is mainly supplied in North America. I am based in the United Kingdom where Medium-Density Polyethylene (MDPE) pipe is used for underground installations. Nothing cheap about MDPE and compression fittings as it confirms to British standards and it's used here to connect houses underground to mains for the supply of potable (drinking) water. I use MDPE fittings as it's much easier for DIYers like myself to connect than doing solder welds on PVC pipes. It also makes the system much more flexible as the fittings can be easily removed should you wish to maintain, modify or extend the system. Assuming the connects have been made correctly, there's little reason why a system using MDPE should be leaking as mains pressure here is around 3-4 bar. The manufacturers I have checked all recommend tightening their MDPE Fittings with a plastic MDPE fitting wrench, a fittings spanner or a strap wrench. You could also add a Drainage valve to each zone which helps reduce risk of water freezing and expanding which could crack or damage the system during cold periods leading to leaks. Personally I think the drainage valves helps reduce water hammer (pressure shock) when the system turns on as one of my zones does not have one and it jolts alot more which could potentially loosen fitings over time.
PVC is unreliable and expensive. MDPE is a superior product now. If you have made 3 repairs it is the installer who has not installed or repaired it properly, faulty batch of pipe and not bedded or covered correctly
