Buddy,..you should (and I mean it) have more subscribers than I have. You are a rising star, and you are something this community has needed for a while now. Loved this vid once I found the chance to watch it! God Blessed your talents!
Dude you deserve like 1 mil subs. You content is amazing. And quality is better than most channels that have like 500k. Good job man keep up the hard work brother. Fellow michigander here!
I get all my bearings from BDI in orillia Ontario,they havent failed me yet! I've walked in with destroyed bearing races and they've been able to get me new bearings that fit no problems at all. They can also get me seals. My 99 cat needed new rear axle bearings,a seal failed from stick damage. Went to cat 1200$ for the bearing! Nope couldnt afford that so over to BDI 112$ for all the bearings and seals. 4yrs later still no play bearings all in great shape! Same for my wheelhorse PTO 12$ for all 4 bearings. If you ever run into a bearing issue let me know I go to them and see what they can do and I can ship down to you!
Thank you for sharing, I also live in Ontario and not far from there, now I know I can get bearings locally 15 minutes from home. instead of ordering them online all the time for 3 times the price and a few weeks waiting
Love seeing all the inner workings, never had a cub trans apart but you gotta be right on why they pop out of second, makes total sense, not sure how you feel but I think a set of 300ex front brake calipers and the master cylinder would make a awesome brake setup for the rear of this thing, just make your brake pedal activate the quad master, we used to get a year of riding out of our front brakes in nasty conditions, and the pads were cheap, rotors appear to be similar in size and thickness, and since they are hydraulic they are self adjusting, just my 2 cents
Thank you, and a good 2 cents worth 2 bucks. More details about the second gear pop will come out as soon as the gear set comes in and prepped for install. If the 300ex front brakes where used they would go on the front wheels. This particular cast iron trans axle has an internal wet brake. hmmm, two levers for brakes.
This video is over the top, finally somebody that can put two words together and instruct! Some of my own question for you, what career are using?? Would you make a video on the disc brakes and do you think this will work with a 24x12x12 rim off setted 4"? Thanks for such an informative vid!
Awesome bump Mr. Russell, thank you. The two piece carrier hands down with the fine spline axles. It is so much easier to lock either through mechanical or welding. As far as the disk brakes go, it is possible that a video can be made and requires some engineering time to seal up the assembly for off road use, which is the biggest con for this set up. Brakes go away after a good hour of on the trail riding. By the end of the day after all the brake adjustments, the pads are completely gone. I used factory pads and then tried automotive metalic's with the same result. The 4" off set puts the rim real close to the caliper and hanger and is to close to call. You may have to mount and see. My preference is the internal wet brake for off road work. You can really beat on them with minimal adjustments.
@@MrStudabaker I'm constructing this unit for the pulling sport, but not for sure what type of engine yet? I' think the ring and pinion from the front will be removed so I can make it a direct drive from the transmission on what ever motor used, this will allow for me to maker the gears needed for a proper tire speed. A two transmission set up! Did the career come from a latter model Cub"? TY again for all the information! What is your estimation of the highest horse power this unit is capable of handling? I've always built my engines till there's an epic explosion some where in the system, then backed it down one or two hp. LOL Faster horses, Stronger whiskey and Loser woman!
Mike, faster horses mad me smirk. I've been trying to blow the head off the ole K341 for a better part of 2 years. For my version of high hp makers, I'm torn between a K361 ohv and a Kohler ch18s. Looking to do at least 50fl-lbs of torque to see if the trans-axle can handle that load. Thinking all day with no creeper drive. Yes, the carrier came from early 90's cub cyclops. As far as what the trans-axle can handle for pulling no clues. I do know this: a cast iron creeper drive and trans axle can handle a heavily modified K341 with limited clutch dumps at 5k rpm's in top gear all day.
Ok verdict is out in the cast iron creeper design. Roll pins inside the box love to work themselves out and or crack with a a 30plus hp k341at the wheels doing clutch dumps in third. Took all summer to accomplish this result.
Yes sir agree all day. Then pops said "is that a ball for the detent" yep he then tells me about top loader 4 speeds using a plunger with a matching radius as a detent. Aha moment made two up installed them problem solved.
Used Grade 8 5/16-24 1-1/2" long. Loctite no washers and trimmed the studs after install to fit as I found out later on that they hit one of the ribs in the trans housing.
Still rolling after a serious beat down at WindRock offroad park this past Saturday. The bolts were grade 8 fine threads and bought an assortment of lengths to obtain the longest shank possible without thread bind when tight. Then chopped the remaining threads off. No washers and a liberal dose of retaining compound to seal up the remaining clearance issue's. I want to say 5/16 bolt. There are bosses in the case that will hit the threads if out to far. Bolt heads go on gear side.
