How to Convert Single Phase to 3 Phase and Use Three Phase Tools at Home 

Al - ru-vid.com/show-UCu9l1hjGyTswU3-yY2DupIQ Brett - ru-vid.com/show-UCPqU-cg2Ko_Q1Q0SamoZt4w Steve - ru-vid.com/show-UCpk3PaOb-CV4vzRwXHZK4Hw The Fools With Tools Podcast - fwtpodcast.com/

Thanks! I bet there was a lot of interesting kit!

Thanks!

That's very kind of you to say! Thank you!

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

Thanks! Once you understand the idea it's pretty close to plug and play.

Thanks, it was a fun one to make... I love the ending too!

Thanks, it's good to be back!

I don't! Past me did though. I think I filmed this about a month ago and have only just finished editing it!

Malt & Make great job. Really enjoyed the edit. See you in August possibly.

Thanks, it's a great space to have!

Thanks for the kind words Sean, glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks Red!

Thanks! I think it should work but you'll want to check how the machine is wired. If the main motor and the scoring blade motor are both 3 phase and the same voltage then you should be fine. In terms of dust protection, look for an Ingress Protection or IP rating with a 5 or 6 in the first number. I'd suggest an IP66 rated enclosure. I've bought all my drives from InveterDrive.com and you can sort by 'protection' on their site. In terms of brand, I've used WEG and Invertek.

I've heard about the power loss at lower speeds or if using a 3 phase on single phase. Do you have a good source for the shortened life span? I'd be interested to read more!

Thanks, that's a great thing to hear. Hopefully people sharing this video will help!

Haha, thanks! Glad you enjoyed it... not sure how well the Brett/Steve strategy will work though!

It should do but depends on the wiring - you might need to remove some parts to make sure the output of the VFD goes straight to the motor/motors. If you do have separate motors just make sure they are both the same voltage and both 3 phase. In terms of dust, you'll want to look for a unit with an IP rating of 5x or 6x (with X being any other number). Generally that means an IP54 up to IP66 rated enclosure. InverterDrive.com is where I have bought all my VFDs and you can filter by 'Protection'. The drives I've bought are either WEG or Invertek.

Thanks, it's a really great space to have!

@@MaltandMake I can only imagine what it would be like to have a space like that. Doesn't help that Facebook Marketplace keeps teasing me with some of the machines I really want lol.

Thanks, I'm hoping to keep the style going. Damn Steve!

Thanks! Yes, good spot. I've got a VFD on the horizontal bandsaw. Luckily the coolant pump runs off a transformer which had an input for 240V so the wiring was very simple. Unplug your machine and have a look at how the wiring is setup, you might have the same. Otherwise, the worst case is that you'd have to replace both motors - I think I had to swap out the 2 speed, main motor on mine. I was able to sell it to cover some of the costs but having variable speed control is really useful so it would have been worth the cost either way for me.

would this be suitable for a sliding panel saw with a seperate scoring blade with it's own motor?

@@michaeltaylor7783 Hi, can you post this as a separate comment rather than a reply - that way people in a similar situation will be able to see it.

Thanks for your reply, I looked at the wiring and the suds pump is 240v, so the vfd could have been an option as you say, although I think I would have to change the main drive motor. Luckily for me I sourced a second hand rotary phase converter very cheaply which runs all the motors on my saw and I can use the 2 speed original motor without any problems. If I hadn’t of found the rotary phase converter at a price I couldn’t refuse I’m sure a vfd would have been the next best option.

You should size the VFD for the motor that you have. So a 1.1kW motor needs a VFD rated for 1.1kW output.

The scoring blade on my saw is run with a belt and pulleys from the main motor. So if your panel saw is the same then yes it would. If there's more than 1 motor then you'd need 2 VFDs.

Thanks for that be probably easier to buy a 3 phase converter instead.

Thanks, it was a lot of work to edit but totally worth it! I don't know what the vote is for but I'm voting for you! Things to think about for VFDs: The right 'power' rating to suit your motor The right IP rating to suit your application - waterproof, dustproof etc The right size for where you want to put it Any buttons built in (they can all have your own buttons added if you want to use existing ones) Options to attach safety switches (e-stop, case open switches etc) - most have this

@@MaltandMake okay, thanks - well I guess I'll just search for the application when I have it then :) thanks!

Thank you, that's a great compliment!

Hi, sorry for not replying sooner. Not with a VFD, they work for things that spin and have a dual voltage motor. The issue with a cooker is that the control hardware won't work if it doesn't get the right voltage. The cooker itself might work on the lower voltage but wouldn't get as hot. A phase converter (Clarke make one) might work but whatever you use you'll need more than 16A to run it... probably a 32A supply.

Thanks! Sharing it with someone you think will like it can help with that!

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. I've bought two WEG and three Invertek VFDs all from InverterDrive.com. They're really helpful and offer great advice with what you should buy. The break resistor is something I picked up in a job lot at an auction so there are much better options available (again InverterDrive sell them). This one is from a motion control driving rig! The WEG units are cheaper and work just as well as the Invertek ones for almost all applications. Like I said in the video, I needed one with a higher IP rating to prevent dust getting in but if you're able to keep the VFD out of the way then there's no reason to go with something cheaper. That's what I did for the Startrite bandsaw in the video. It has a cheaper WEG unit built into the case (in the electrical box) and has the original start and stop button wired to it and I just drilled a new hole for the speed control knob. The reason I went for Invertek is the IP rating, it has buttons including a speed control knob built in and I've used them on other machines so there's some symmetry between different tools in the workshop. In most cases you can pick any brand of VFD you just need to think about: The right 'power' rating to suit your motor The right IP rating to suit your application - waterproof, dustproof etc The right size for where you want to put it Any buttons built in (they can all have your own buttons added if you want to use existing ones) Options to attach safety switches (e-stop, case open switches etc) - most have this I hope that's a helpful start! I can thoroughly recommend InverterDrive so if you do get something from them please let them know I sent you. Not sponsored but it would be great if they did!

Malt & Make superb James and thanks for the comprehensive reply that’s much appreciated, I’ll definitely go check Inverterdrive out as resource. I’ve been looking at Bridgeport end mills and some lathes so think they might work but will do some research. Thanks for sharing and putting the video up 🙌🏻🙌🏻👍🏻🤜🏻🤛🏻

You're welcome! Thanks for watching and good luck with the project, let me know how it goes.

@@MaltandMake okay i surely will

Hey, thanks for watching. I'm not sure I can help with that. I guess there's no industrial use for low voltage 3 phase so I don't think there's something 'off the shelf' that could do that.

Thanks Ellen, it was a fun on to edit!

Thanks, feel free to share if you want to help the channel grow

Hi, sorry I must have missed this at the time. The difficulty might be the heating (I assume your machine has something to melt the glue). Often heating elements need their rated voltage to work properly although it should still heat up but perhaps not enough for the machine to work properly. If it's a hot air blower you could see if you can replace it for a 240V version. In terms of the motors, you might be able to just run then all from the same VFD if they're all constantly running. It's not something I've tested though. Do check the motor plates to see if you can run then on 240V three phase as that might be an easier route than trying to run a VFD that creates the phases and has to deal with running the motors at lower voltage/frequency.

Thanks! If you're UK based, send the guys at InverterDrive.com a message - tell them you watched this video... they've helped a few people before. I've used both WEG (cheap) and Invertek (more expensive). In terms of function work well. The WEG units I've had do have a fan which runs constantly when it's plugged in, even if the machine is off. The only other consideration you'll need to think about is the IP rating (ingress protection). If you can be sure it won't get any dust or liquid near it then you can use any one. Otherwise, familiarise yourself with the IP rating and decide which one you need. All the models I've used can have buttons wired to them so you can rewire the machine and use the original buttons. You might want to add a potentiometer for speed control although some VFDs have one already. Although that does mean you'll need it accessible. Hopefully that's a good start but let me know if I can help in any other way.

Cheers mate, glad you liked it!

That's quite a powerful motor. You'll need a VFD that is rated for the same horsepower as the motor. It doesn't matter which brand you buy. I suggest finding a local supplier, asking what they have available and explaining how you want to use it.

Thank you!

It's a hack I've heard about but not something I've tried. There's a few advantages to using a VFD: reliability, speed control and energy efficiency. I'd be interest to hear if you've had any success with adding a capacitor?

@@MaltandMake ive just been looking at VFD's..given that .75 would be for a 1hp motor.my drill will have 1/3hp.so by rites that would need a .25kw VFD? but i can only find a .45 kw on ebay...would that be ok do you think?or is there some mad formula i dont know about :)

@@davidwoodward7020 As long as the VFD is rated for at least the power of your motor you'll be fine. The closest 'common' size you'll find is 0.37kW but 0.45kW would work.

@@MaltandMake brilliant,thanks for your advice

I'm in the UK but this machine was imported by someone else before I bought it. What do they mean?

@@MaltandMake It's mean : "BRZDA" : BRAKE "ODSÁVÁNÍ" : SUCTION. I am from Czech republic (exactly : I was born in the Czechoslovak socialist republic, and now I still living in the Czech republic). That's why I noticed.

@@jankelbich4605 Thanks! That makes a lot of sense!

Good spot!

@@MaltandMake would love to see a video about it! My VW discord always has a soft spot for busses :)

Yes, I am!

@@MaltandMake noted with thanks Sir 😃😃

Thanks for watching!

Sorry, I've not heard that term before

Thanks Andy!

Thanks!

Oh, and I'm amazed that so many homes around the world just have single phase power. In Sweden only the smallest, old apartments have single phase, everyone else use good old three phase!

I wish it was the norm here!

Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Please do watch again... ideally from a different location/IP address!! Braking resistors are rated for continuous power on the of hundreds of watts and then also overload e.g. 10 times rated power for 5 seconds every 90 seconds. I don't have the details for the one I'm using to hand but it's more than I need for this and worst comes to worst I have 2 spare!

@@MaltandMake 😂 Sure, I'll use my work phone and turn the WiFi off... Hm, I was thinking that it could be interesting to hook a couple of strong light bulbs to the break, it should do the trick as long as it can take the voltage. It wouldn't be as robust as a break resistor, but it could look cool. 💡

@@CrudeButEfficient that would look cool!

Cheers!

Thanks for watching.

Ok