Explanation and context are so helpful on this one - enjoyed the collecting footage here as well - thanks for sharing your knowledge. Still on the lookout for good old fruit trees around here!
Thanks Bruce. Good info. I just got 4 Bradford pears to grow. I love the fall colors of the species. Have you grown any. Do other pears have the maroon autumn colors of the Callery type? Can you share which trees can grow from ROOT CUTTINGS. I've been successful with elms thus far. Thanks again
Thanks for the informative video Bruce! I hope to be so lucky as to stumble on some old apples and pears one day. A few questions that came to my mind during the video: 1) What was your big bonsai disaster that led to you losing so many trees one year? I haven't heard that story but want to avoid the same fate. 2) With the Bull Water technique, once it leafed out, how long did you leave it in the water before you felt comfortable taking it out? I had a big Beech I collected last year that leafed out fine and then started to decline until it died all the way. Since then, I learned they're very water tolerant so I'm thinking that technique may have helped it. 3) One thing I was looking for is any information about cedar-apple rust. I have neighbors with huge Juniperus virginiana in their yards and so it is inevitable in my area. I've been growing apples from seed for a few years and certainly some are more susceptible than others just in the seed variation. Is this a common disease in Michigan as well or do you find the mature yamadori have already been naturally selected on so only the resistant ones reach the age that they would be interesting enough to collect? As the leaves get infected for us around May to early June, I started some experiments with partial defoliation of infected leaves or branches last year to see if this mechanical control could be effective, but I may have done it too late In the year (late july) to get an effective post-prune response. I'll try again with earlier defoliation next year.
Thank you. 1. Many years ago in Ann Arbor, MI the person who owed the home behind ours was mentally ill and poisoned all of my bonsai with turpentine. Fewer than half survived. I lost dozens of trees. 2. I also used Dean Bull's immersion technique on a large beach and lost it. It has worked 100% of the time on fruit trees, but I don't have evidence that it's beneficial to everything. 3. Cedar apple rust isn't a big problem for bonsai, unless you're trying to grow both apples and Juniperus virginiana. I don't have problems with cedar apple rust, but I am generous with fungicides in the spring and up through mid-summer. Apples are pretty scrappy trees.
@@BruceBakerBonsai Thanks for sharing Bruce! Sorry to hear about the turpentine incident, that sounds like a nightmare. Glad your collection and knowledge is still going strong though.
Hey Bruce, thank you for this video. Could you please elaborate on the technique of submerging the tree in water as an aftercare method for yamadori? Are we submerging the entire potted tree up to the soil line in a tub of water? For how long? Is root-rot an issue? In what situations would you choose to use this method? Or do you use it on everything? Thanks 🙏
The method is used only on trees that fail to break dormancy. They are submerged to the pot line until they bud out then treated normally after that. It is a rarely used technique that can sometimes be effective.
@BruceBakerBonsai thank you for the reply. So how soon after collection would you expect new buds to break and if they haven't budded by that time, that's when you put them in water?
@@Dom1986ety Collected trees may be a week or two slower to open. Pay attention to other trees around you and use the submerging method if the collected tree lags more than a week.
