How to cut a large mirror without breaking it 

Right

You can also just snap it with your hands like breaking a pencil.....20+ years with my C-17

​@@misterhangman3586 you mean Toyo TC-17?

Absolutely!

All good points! This cutter has a refillable canister in it that I filled with oil before starting. I did have a minor scratch on the back of one mirror from the plywood. If I had a smoother work surface or some rosin paper that would have prevented the scratch. I tried to one-cut the whole mirror but it's difficult with one this big.

Nate Lampton great staying calm with this person who has great advice with a horrible delivery

That hasn't been silver in a long time

@@ravenbudka7124 Yes, they use aluminum now. Thanks for the correction

@@tryinitdee8473 Yes, maybe not the best delivery, but neither is this "educatonal" video. Somebody is gonna get injured by performing an incorrect and unsafe method

Clamped?

@Super Dave yes you can if it is square 8 foot by 8 foot then just cut a 12 by 12 piece out of the corner but also take a razor an try to make a light score mark on the back of the mirror and cut into the paint a little bit so that doesn't cause the glass to break in a different direction or anything. When they make a mirror it gets coated with several different metals and then the final coat is a coat of paint I would just suggest making a cut mark into the paint on the exact 12 by 12 lines that your score mark makes on the other side also remember don't make a score mark on the glass until your really ready to score and break the glass right away. never score the glass and leave it scored without breaking it because it will kind of heal up and it won't break properly

@@o0o-jd-o0o95 , thanks. Just the info I was seeking.

@@o0o-jd-o0o95 absolutely unnecessary

@@o0o-jd-o0o95 you first cut an 12 inch strip off the 8x8....than take that 12 inch x 8 foot cutoff and cut a 12 inch off that

Great idea waiting. Being hasty with glass gets you nowhere.

You could just add a thick frame and nail/ glue it to the wall rather than the mirror.

@‘I I am sorry x

Yes

yes look into stained glass cutting. same concept. this is a shit video anyways

While rocking a DrupalCorn shirt 😅

I also need similar information - Thanks

Maybe use a long straight piece of wood to distribute the force along the part that you want to remove, because 2" is such a small surface area to bang on. In another video, I saw a guy do a lot of gentle taps on the discarding end, prob to spread the crack, before applying more pressure to completely sever the glass. Good luck!

You need a jig to cut circles or ovals. Something like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3fUzzsvwx5Y.html It's not possible for normal people to cut a circle out of glass freehand. A jig is absolutely crucial. The right tool can make it easy.

Sure! Here it is: CRL TOYO Original Supercutter Metal Handle Straight Head Oil Cutter amzn.to/3s64GqX

For straight cuts get the broadhead the larger straight head. The smaller narrow head is for pattern cuts and is for turns. Do not use a metal stick to run you cut line. "under the glass" Use the neoprene (plastic) or wood. Every time he smacked the glass he probably caused scratches into the silvering on the back. You can use it to run the score by adding some tape to the side you are to lay on the glass. It all sounds good till the score you do on the glass runs out to one side or the other. So, therefore, make sure the "table" under the glass is supported and the glass flat and as even as you can make it. Laying a nice "movers" quilt blanket " you can get cheap at Harbour Freight" on the table can help with that unevenness Sometimes as you run the cutter if the glass is uneven it will run out as you try to score the glass .. before you can even finish scoring it will be ruined. The glass cutters can come with a reservoir in the handle that releases oil. After a few months, these stop releasing oil. You can dip the tip in motor oil, transmision fluid .. even baby oil. Just a lil bit. with no pressure run the cutter backwards up the cut line to dribble some oil onto the mirror exactly where you are to pull the cutter down. Just a lil bit you don't want a huge mess. Once you break the glass line you don't want a bunch of oil to drip down the edge and get onto the silvering and the clean up is a pain. You can use Isophphy alcohol to clean most of the oil off the edges then clean with glass cleaner. After you cut the glass lightly use sandpaper at a 45% angle to knock the sharp off and to help "seam" the edge especially the silver side. Can help with the peeling .. molting effect years down the road as well as keep the edge from premature damage from accidental bumps. Also keeps you from cuts while handling. The is a product o "seal the edge which is basically like a polyurethane. I don't know the chemical make up. It dries clear and helps a lil more than just sanding. We buy it its called "Mirror Sealer" . We use to use it on all mirrors now only on some. Be careful, please.

@@balonsolos Thks a lot of good informations. Jesus bless You

Dude first he needs to learn the right way

I wouldn't bother unless you cut a lot of glass. I cut glass for close to 30 years and only used a fancy cutter for heavy glass and laminated. If you only need to cut a few pieces now and then just go to a local glass shop. They will do it for a couple bucks. For stained glass I would definitely get a good cutter.

How did it work?

Glass cutters just score (scratch) the glass where you want. Then you use that line to break it there. So yes. As long as it's not tempered.

Well I would not try anything thicker than 1/4. The cutter can be the same but 3/8 and thicker requires exp you won't have by home cutting. Some guys have special homemade tools to help run the 3/8 like taping with a chisel (at a specific angle) to get the glass to start the run. I have heard my Table glass cutter (hes been cutting glass 45 years) say he likes to use and old cheap cutter for thick glass. @@@@@@ BEWARE@@@@ a lot of dining room tables are tempered. ( some have a small etching in the corner near the edge. some are made without so to not distract from the beauty) It's hard to tell the difference. You can tap on it with at coin and hear the difference some say... and some will laugh at you. You can score it with a cutter but it with not run or break in a straight line. It will break into 1 million pieces. (more like explode) it will pop and sometimes shoots glass. The tempering makes the glass break into small cubes for safety. It will still cut you. First day on the job 30 years ago a piece of tempered poped and dropped (8 foot) onto my hand I got a nasty cut and I still have a scar. My partner had to get 14 stitches.

@@jaredmontague8142 What if it is tempered?? Will it shatter??

@@brandywine68 likely. Are you referring to when you are trying to cut (score) the glass?

@@jaredmontague8142 Yes.. And how can you tell if it is tempered glass?? The mirror that I want to cut is about 1/4 inch thick..

Scratching the surface is exactly how glass cutters work. Listen for the "ripping" sound as you pull the glass cutter. The scratch is barely enough to catch your fingernail. After scoring, you snap the remaining 99% thickness of the glass. It will break along the score.

Yes, need the same info. Couldn't really tell in the video

I like them too! They look super helpful

Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ace Hardware. Walmart may have them as well.

Irwin Quick Clamps are the original defacto clamps with a trigger like this: amzn.to/3s64GqX

Where can you buy?

36x30 inch mirrors are available in store at most Home Depots.

I think you'd need/want a circle cutting jig like this: www.amazon.com/Heavy-duty-Circular-Glass-Cutter-Suction/dp/B00D4LDFAO/ref=asc_df_B00D4LDFAO/ And the breaking method is different based on my understanding. So no, probably quite different!

Toyo Glass Cutter: amzn.to/3s64GqX

Joe Avi Would you believe it’s called a Glass Cutter. 😉

Toyo glass.

I don't mean to be sarcastic, but you'll need to take it off the wall. And if you're cutting it, you'd need to repair the wall underneath anyway. A lot of the time the walls are painted after the mirror is hung. And you'll have holes from where the mirror is current attached. Use a utility knife to cut any caulking or paint around the mirror, then remove clasps that hold the mirror in place. Get a friend to help if it's a large mirror.

@@quicksketch7 Thank-you sir, really polite response. I was hoping there was like some sort of jig tool that would be advertised. I only need like 3 inches off the mirror.

I sanded with a sanding sponge on the edge, careful not to scratch the foil backing. Be sure to wear a mask or a respirator, glass dust isn't something you want to breathe. This doesn't get the same finished edge as the factory sides, but it takes the edge off.

It's a drywall T square. You should be able to find them at any hardware store. www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-22-in-x-48-in-Original-Drywall-T-Square-088-012-HD/100095247

@@quicksketch7thanks

Do you have a long level that will do.

Yes, the cut side is very sharp. After cutting you'll need to smooth it. Some here have recommended using a butane torch, which would work, but I just used a 200 grit sanding sponge. Use a mask so you don't breathe in the very fine glass dust if you sand the glass edge.

@@quicksketch7 A butane torch WILL NOT DULL THE EDGE...YOU WILL CRACK THE GLASS !!!

I haven't attempted using a razor blade but I doubt it would work well. Glass cutters are a special tool in that they roll, usually additionally facilitated by oil, on the surface instead of pull on it. The carbide wheel is going to be a lot harder than the metal of a razor, which would dull quickly on something as hard as glass. Similar to my own story, if you cheap on the tools you'll probably ruin $50+ of glass like the piece I was using in the video. I wasted over $100 using bad tools, use the right one and you'll save money, even if it's only for a single use.

No, you can't use a knife or blade. A glass cutter is not sharp. It is actually a tiny roller ground to a certain angle that actually makes a score line (basically a scratch). The score line is used to make a controlled break. And yes, like Nate said, use the correct tool.

Get some wood shims and push them in behind the mirror. Slide a piece of stainless steel wire (fishing line) behind it and use it like a saw to cut through the glue. Move the shims as you go to keep the mirror away from the wall. The wire will create heat and melt the glue so try to keep moving. If it's large have 2 people on the wire and someone to hold the mirror. The person holding the mirror can put light pressure pulling the mirror from the wall. Did one yesterday.

broken glass sucks, the tiny slivers can get everywhere. I'd tape the edge of the glass with duct tape and large cardboard in front of it.