How to cut a shingle book. This video is made as a BASIC introduction to getting started with shingles. Brought to you by IBEX Roof in Vancouver, WA, your local roofing contractor. www.ibexroof.com 360-836-0535
I cut mine at 6 9/16 ,13 1/8 and 19 5/8 and flip the shingles so the seal strip doesn't touch the exposed part of the shingle. Using a straight blade cut the shingle from the back side using the factory edge of another shingle to make a straight cut. The shingle cut at 13 1/8 makes like an 1 tab and the 2 tab on a three tab shingle perfect for working the valleys if you come off the edge of your roof. When you have a consistent pattern your nail patterns should be the same . We all have seen these guys putting nails where the shingles meet usually because they don't have a good pattern. Good to see people taking the time to do the job correctly
Use a sliding chop saw to cut your starters, back blade them. Put a whole bundle on at a time and cut right through the plastic just remember to back blade them. Cut 3 bundles to get you started to the 3 specified starter lengths on the package and away you go. That is one of the best tips I can give and I have been running a hard and fast high production crew for over a decade now. Just came up with that idea about 4 years ago.
Thanks man, nice video. Quick easy and efficient. I'm workin with a guy right now who just cuts em by eye, of course the guys been doin it for 23 years. Love roofing, easy money.
@@Winchester-ii5oe it's not EASY money tho. If your doing it right or with the right crew, roofing is never easy.. I got 22 years and ive had good days but never easy. Even on the most simplest and straightforward roofs, lower sloped, low bundle numbers, over Cast day and its still not easy work.
You got it right . If you divide the length of a shingle by 7 on your calculator you get 5.625 . If you use that number you get zero waste and perfect stagger of 45 degrees. Beautiful. Been using snips for years. Hacking away with a knife is no fun. Especially when they are cold. Also a speed square. Score it on the back or use a crayon on the front. Straight is good. I like straight. A paper cutter works good but it wont fit in my tool bags.
I use my utility knife or a book cutter that makes it so fast and easy and good investment for a crew to have. They can get the new guy that might not know measurements to cut the books easy with that tool. For the guy that do it often they use their utility knife since they are about 6 inches
7-8” works too. Don’t use a tape just eyeball it. You’ll get 5 pieces plus a full shingle. Simpler, no measuring, more room for error. No downside, faster, less trying. Gives more play around the pipes and when you get to the end. The 1/4 1/2 3/4 full is easier but is a bit lazy and doesn’t give the greatest spacing
@@slickwilly6868 This is the way manufacturers reccomend. Codes may differ in areas, but this way won't leak. 👍 I think in canada they install with a "racking" method sometimes?
You always use manufacture installation procedures for shingle installations. As far as racking goes it's usually only used with 3tab shingles. Read the instructions and don't get building codes confused with a building product.
..with all that cutting, you could be laying shingles...is it a big deal if you just go full shingle, 3/4 shingle, 1/2 shingle, 1/4 shingle?....seems you could eyeball that as you go...I must commend you on the rust-azz tape...mine never last that long...good video!
Don't know anyone who measures like that and I've been in roofing for 5 years now. You could just as easily do 8" books. Last shingle will be a bit more/less because some shingles are 40" long or 39", etc etc. but that's absolutely fine as it's minimum 6".
@@kirkkoskiniemi4961 never did see the reply Kirk, appreciate it tho. I tackled my garage 4 months ago, and it came out beautiful. Saved a ton of money and knowing where every nail placement is. No seems, no short cuts. I can sleep at night, and I know it will last for years
Basically you start out with a 10" piece of starter, put that small piece on, then put a full starter next to it to create the staircase and to avoid landing on seams. Then put a full shingle, put the bottom left corner on the bottom left corner where the hip starts, nail that off, get your next shingle, cut about 1/3rd of it off from the left side, put the bigger piece on, putting the bottom left corner of the shingle above the first one you put on the same way you did with the first, then the smaller piece you cut off that shingle, can be used for the next row up. That's the easiest way with having no shingle wasted and creates a good amount of a staircase, then just continue that pattern going up as you fill the previous shingles in. When you get to the opposite side of the roof do the same thing, cut off the shingle where the bottom right hits the hip, a straight cut. The sizes will vary but just use a piece thats either a bit short, like 1-2" from the hip, or goes past it, then you can either mark a chalkline along the hip to cut the excess of the shingles off, or just eyeball your cuts with the angle of the hip, doesn't really matter if your cut isn't straight, but try to stay within a half inch or so of the hip. The cap shingle are going to be covering it up so it doesn't need to be pretty. Also try not to cut through the underlayment, just pull up on the triangle youre cutting as you cut
I don't understand what you just did first shingle is what 5/58 the second one looks wider then 5/58 and the third on too i didn't get what you just did why can't you just do one on video so i can understand what you did to the three stairs
I just realized after using this video to do half side of my roof, the 5 and 5/8 is NOT the spacing for courses. Owens Corning say 6 1/2. The 5 and 5/8 is the distance between the shingle on TOP... Argh....! Guess other side will be correct...
Correct. A 5 5/8" reveal. Reveal is distance between top shingle and bottom shingle. What this man is teaching is incorrect. Owens Corning architectural shingles course cuts are 6 1/2, 13, 19 1/2 to make your book.
Well half the roof is done wrong, and the other half is done right. Hasn’t leaked yet!! Guess I’ll know better next time... I’m starting to realize that a lot of roofs aren’t done 100% perfect, but they still work.
This video is very misleading, i came from roof caps lol thanks utube. 6 to 8 inch intervals is universal recommended. Anything less and u risk water getting to the nails or wind blowing off the tiny shingle this guy made 😆
Would hate to see all the screw ups you have coming over the top of valleys and dormers. I see crooked and small exposures from guys that brag about not using a tape measures your customers must love their new ugly roof because you were to lazy or just can't read a tape measure. When you measure out your roofs you know your roof will be straight , no guess work.
That's a huge book, over twice what's required. Go with 8" instead, gives you an extra shingle to go up the roof and then you don't have a weird nail pattern or have half the shingle not nailed down.
This too much work ...as long as you have a 3 to 5 in overlap on your seams your good to go .... If you pull out a tape measure to get your 5 x 5.5 you'd get run off the job here in Texas ,,,lol
@@robertkelly9772 this video looks like one of those FB short reels with someone that has the Obsessive-Compulsive Personality Disorder going on ... ..
