This is how I get angle cuts on a table saw without using a taper jig. Or just get a taper jig :-) - here's an economical jig: amzn.to/3ql9xoM Here is the fancy jig I mention in the video: amzn.to/33boXmN
THANK YOU!!! Cutting a very precise piece of wood flooring in a very visible high traffic area and this is the only video I found that didn’t require a store bought jig.
Thanks Hevnar. Yours was the first on many videos I watched on this subject. And also the LAST. I spent hours trying to do a 1/2" taper on a 21x9" board, and eventually gave in and got down the 6’ MDF board, and then built a priceless jig from a little 1/2" block and a screw!
Thanks for this awesome helpful trick and well made video! This is exactly what I need for a drawer glide and a rustic nightstand I'm making. Brilliant solution!
Genius idea, just used exactly this to system to cut a taper of 4mm from one end of a piece of kitchen cabinet filler, worked perfectly, thanks for a great instructional video, been trying to work out how to cut a small taper for years 🙄😁
Works great, but how do you dig the chunk of wood out of the garage door after it flys past your face and embeds in about a 1/2". I'm all about figure different ways, but this honestly gave me a lot of anxiety.
Having the 'sister' rip fence (combined with the added 'depth gauge') worked better than the whole concept of a taper jig. Fits my project perfectly. My project btw, is to build a form for an extended & dyed cement 'step' with the house end height of 1 1/4" to just 1" at the toe end for pitch. Total depth is 31&1/4". A little too long for a store built jig . My thanks dude.
Yes, ideally you would want a long table and a long rip fence. This can be a challenge. So another option is to find a local mill or woodworking shop and have them do it. For example, for large cuts or big jobs, I use a local woodshop that charges $100/hr. Something like what you are describing would take them 15 min because they have a huge table and rip fence. The $25 fee would be cheaper than making a table and fence that large. Hope that helps, thank you for your comment and good luck on your project.
I need to install the trim between the wall and pantry with a 1/4” difference from the ceiling to the top of the toe kick. This may be the an the way to cut that angle.
I want to scribe a saw blade width on the sides of a rectangle box I am making. I want the line to go from one corner to the opposite corner of the board. I think your idea will work. If I raise the saw blade just an 1/8" and them use your technique on a 7" wide board I thin I would then put a "block" at thee end of the board that is 7" wide. Am I right? I plan to insert a slim saw blade width piece of Purple Heart wood that will run diagonally across the board.
Sounds like a great idea. I would recommend running a scrap through first. Something like a spare piece of MDF to check the fit. Before committing your nice piece of wood. The "right" way to do this is to buy an angle cut jig. But those are pretty expensive. So what we're showing here is more of a one off workaround. Your project sounds really cool!
Yes, but only if you have a 6' or more rip fence. It can be done with some setup: My rip fence, for example, is pretty short - only around 2' so what I do is grab another long, straight board against the rip fence to create a long rip fence to work against. This also requires me to place my saw next to a larger table that can support the longer boards.
If you want several pieces from the same board, how do you do it? If you just want two tapered pieces, do you just double the piece taped in the piece being cut? That might not give exact copies though, right?
Great question. Using this technique leaves you with angled leftovers. So if I wanted to make two or more, I would first cut two pieces that were wider than I needed. Then I would use this technique on each piece. I would run them through on their own to keep my blade down and not have to worry about the pieces accidently slipping.
@@clickapro I understand that. Problem is I am needing a few pieces about 24” long that taper from 3/8” to nothing and don’t want to waste any more than necessary.
@@rickeykeeton4770 gotcha makes sense. So what i would do is cut my first piece just like this video shows with the spacer. That gives you angled piece #1. Then I would remove the spacer, and run your board through again with the fence set 3/8" closer to the blade. This will make your stock piece straight again. Then I would use the spacer technique to make piece #2 and then repeat the whole process to make #3. Also, cutting pieces that thin is tricky because they can get caught in the hole next to your blade. A trick to avoid this is to lower your blade all the way down. Then apply one line of tape all the way across your table saw centered on the blade. Then slowly run your blade up into the tape. The blade will cut its own hole in the tape that is a perfect fit so that your small pieces can't fall through. You can watch others do this part if you search for "cutting thin pieces on a table saw" here on RU-vid
The end of the video doesn't seem to demonstrate any success. He cut the thin piece to go against the wall but he did the "reveal" bit using the huge piece instead? You can't see anything like this. Can someone who has honestly performed an angled rip cut in this manner confirm that it does in fact work as described? Thanks! There are many nonsense videos that show wrong habits but have many views, ESPECIALLY in plumbing. I really don't want to ruin this piece of AA Birch Plywood! Help!
This technique works fine in the field for us in a pinch. But it's better to buy a proper angle cut jig if you have the money and time. But either way, practice on a scrap piece of wood until you're confident. Then you can run your good wood through. Also, this technique is for small angles only and not great for really long pieces unless you have or make a long rip fence. And #1 be smart and be safe, the wood is replaceable but not your fingers. Good luck.
Good idea only if you use proper safety. How you cut the board made me cringe. You did so many things wrong like not having a proper out feed table setup. This caused you to have to use an excessive amount of downward pressure to keep the board from lifting. A few times the board lifted off the table saw while blade was cutting the board.This happened because it was not supported at the out feed. The table saw was also rocking back and forth because it was not solidly supported underneath. You never securely mounted the "spacer" as you called it to the rip fence. I was very surprised you did not get kick back even with the safety guard in place. You were also forcing the board thru the table saw and the blade was getting jammed as you cut the board.This caused the board to advance in a jerky motion. I suggest you take a couple of safety course so you know how to properly use a table saw. I am saying all this for the benefit of viewers watching this so they do not duplicate your serious errors. It only takes one accident to change your entire life. It is not worth doing it incorrectly to save a few minutes of time.
This technique is best for smaller lengths. But I think it's possible if you have a 6' rip fence or if you can clamp down another 6' board to use as a long rip fence and a table on either end for support
