You can buy an idler pulley that bolts in place of the air pump. Then you can re use the factory length belt. Also, the best way to plug the holes in the back of the heads is to use a 5/8”x 1/2” long coarse threaded bolt with anti seize
I’m about to do this on my 1996 bronco 5.8L I removed the egr and 02 sensors so far sounds a lot better already 👍🏻 thanks for the video! Going to pick up the belt tonight they said it’s 97.6 inches hope that’s what you got?
I'm not sure as I live in Canada and we do not have emissions testing but don't think it would as all the pump does is pump fresh air into the exhaust I assume to kind of fool the emissions testing machine
How are you I got a 1992 ford econoline e150 with a 351 widsor I like to delete the smog pump and change the crankshaft position sensor at the same time but I can't find the crankshaft position sensor it supposed to be close to the balancer I can't seem to find it is their one in this motors or do you know where is located at
Hello, I tried this on my 97 one ton. The belt seems to flap around excessively between the alternator and the crankshaft. Has your belt ever come off?
Hey @FIX IT AUTO (or anyone else who's done it), I have the same truck and engine and did the smog pump bypass, but my belt slips at startup and under heavy acceleration. I bought a 97" belt and have a brand new tensioner. Anyone else run into this? Mine is a 5060970 though, not a 1060970. I'm wondering if my belt groove pitch is wrong? I noticed that Continental says I should have the 4060970 belt (if I do the bypass, the 4061020 otherwise). Thoughts anyone?
sorry for the late reply. deleting the smog pump will take a little bit of stress off of the engine, freeing up a tiny amount of hp. it also cleans up the engine bay as well. and as long as you leave all the solenoids on the driver valve cover electrically connected you will not have any cel's. basically there is no bad effects on the engine but your truck will probably not pass emissions if you live in a state that has emissions.
@ZeroNadaZilch no it won't. By taking it off will allow the engine to do what it was ment to do, be a unrestricted engine. Egr and all the bs they put on engines to pass emissions shorten the life of a engine.
@@kennyhendricks6260 I was wondering the same thing. Fix It Auto, did you plug the vacuum on the TAB/TAD relays? What do you think about the 100ohm resistor method?
@Paul Tucker I noticed after making this video that my belt squeals a little bit when I start my truck. I am going to try a smaller belt like 96.5" or something and see if that helps.
@@fixitauto1616 On Auto Zone, I looked up what belt pitch/angle Continental (my favorite brand, personally) recommended, and it's the 4061020 (102") with the smog pump, so I bought a 4060965 (96.5") to use with the smog bypass and it works great! This isn't so much for you, FIX IT AUTO, but anyone else that reads this: It's a bit of a bear to get it on, but the easiest method was to get it on all the pulleys (I use the same smog bypass belt path you used) - but on your fan pulley, run it over the fan blade shaft, not the pulley so you have some extra slack. Once it's on all the pulleys and routed around the fan shaft, wiggle the belt onto the fan pulley housing since it has a nice round-over on that pulley that you can slide it up. Also note that your tensioner's "most relaxed" position with this new belt route isn't at 100% backed off, like it used to be. The most relaxed position is at about 75% - so if you hold your tensioner at about 75%, you'll get a tad more slack. A bit of water on the fan pulley housing can help reduce the friction, but I didn't need it my case. No more squeaks and squeals at startup or hard acceleration! :D
FIX IT AUTO I did the same thing you did but it’s sounds like my belt is slipping in first just I only pulled off the pilot cause I didn’t care about the check engine light is that ok?
Are you anywhere near Ky I can’t seem to get anyone to completely fix my emission tube leak. I would so love to delete mine and would pay to have it done. 94 E150 5.8l
My idiot brother did this to his truck and he totally regrets it. Now I have to clean up his mess and find out how to reverse this crap. Been trying to find out where all this sh*t goes for the past 8 months.
Routed my belt the way he mentioned in the video and after installing a 250 amp alternator it came with a smaller pulley so I went down half an inch as recommended by the alternator company and now the belt keeps slipping and seems to flap around a lot and I went down another 1/2 inch and it won’t even go over, any help?
@@fixitauto1616 ive put on the shortest belt i can physically get on still squeals i just dunno if the tensioner has enough spring to keep tension on such a tight loop