This video is giving me a mega hernie! In all seriousness, there's a lot to take in. And I thank you for sharing this valuable information. Also I'd like to add that tweeter sensitivity has a lot to do with it. If you have a tweeter rated at over 98db along with a mid/woofer at 89db, a 6db loss would still result in a tweeter being much louder.
When you say baffle size is that the compleat baffle or the amount around that 1 driver, I have a Bluetooth speaker I threw together because I had the parts and it has 4 3" GRS full range drivers on 1 baffle. There running off a 4 channel car head unit. It sounds actually pretty decent bass for 3" drivers imo but the highs were kinda weak so I tossed a couple cheap power acoustik tweeters with a built in inline high pass cap and now sounds alot better.
A parallel notch filter usually slightly works better but is harder to design. Normally the frequency response not only rises towards the mids but also falls slightly towards the highs.
Hey I know this video is really old but I wanted to ask if a BSC would make sense in a car sice you can't really have exact numbers for the baffle I mean for a mid range speaker that is housed in the standard holes for the speakers in a car
Thank you. Because of the math involved on this.. If i have a tower (tall and thin) I can turn it over 90 degrees and get more bass. Right? Thanks again
I think it might be better to explain the baffle correction as compensating for the loss of bass. In a full range, single speaker in a box cabinet, there is a loss of bass due the baffle itself, it attenuates the bass. The lower frequencies when they emanate from the speaker the "wrap around" the baffle which results in less reaching your ears (round edges help here, less compenstation is needed). This makes the treble seem higher so you need a low shelf filter to make up for that.
Maybe I missed it, but where in the crossover does the BSC circuit go? Does it go on the woofers positive lead before the rest of the low pass filter, or after?
Haha, I know. I used to get really nervous when doing these. I said a bunch of stuff wrong, lol. Oh well, not like it's on the internet for all to see.
Hi very nice video. So is BSC still required for multiple speakers like 2 way (tweeter + woofer)? If so, how do you implement that into a crossover? Do you have it in series to the crossover? Or can you actually take that into. the. crossover, by pre-calculating the f3? Thanks.
How do you calculate the baffle step when you have rounded edges? Do you take the width of the baffle until the beginning of the curve or just act as if the curve wasn't there and take the original baffle width before rounding the edges?
hey, first and foremost thank you very much for all the great tutorial videos... i'm in the middle of designing speakers for my desk using the markaudio pluvia 7 drivers and i'm wondering, when designing the baffle step correction, do i always look at the smaller dimension of the baffle? my speakers are going to lay flat much like a center speaker in a home cinema system since i don't have a lot of room under my screens. should i compensate for the width of the speaker instead? thank you! :)
@@DiStickStoffMono0xid maybe I misunderstood what you were asking, always entirely possible when we're reading text. But to clarify, it should be the shortest side of the baffle. Typically the driver's going to be in the middle somewhere. So if it's really long, like 48 in wide, and 5 in tall. You're going to go with 5 in tall. This doesn't matter what size the driver you use.
Is there any way to get the pre-BSC .frd measurement into a crossover simulator to design the correction circuit that way instead of endless trial and error? Like you already measured in test enclosure but haven't applied bsc yet.
Chris you can send me like any of these in a program like xsim, you just want to see about what frequency you're going to need to be at with this website first. That way when you're doing trial and error in the program you know that you want to cut it by 300 Hertz. So you could easily manipulate your inductor until you hit that and chang your resistor value from there
You totally lost me on Wb. Is it the actual width of the baffle or the box volume? You said volume like in WinIsd but your example in the video just says Wb=4". Is that 4 cubic inches of volume or a 4" baffle width? I am confused because you brought up WinIsd and didn't say simply measure the width of the baffle.
That is correct. The page I linked to has a diagram directly on the main page as well as in the video in the very beginning. However, the resistor and inductor are wired in parallel in lne with the positive wire.
hi! may I know how to measure the baffle width? I am building a small boombox, something like a bigger version of bose soundlink mini with two exact same drivers mounting at each side, front firing. Which measurement is the baffle width? And if I am using passive radiator, lets says 2 piece of 60x90mm PR mounting each at the front and rear, does this method of calculation still applied? Thanks.
It would still apply. The PR's, just tune the box to a desired frequency, much like a port. Your measurement would most likely be you baffle height in this example (ie whatever is the smallest measurement of you baffle). Most speakers are taller, so your width is usually smallest, but it should be height in your case. Having said that, this is just an estimate. If you have measurement gear, that would be best. You can either measure it once in the box or start with the basic BSC calculated and work from it. If you do not have measurement gear, then go with the values you attain from this site :)
Lets says I have a internal enclosure height of 80mm, in my case, my baffle width will measure from center of driver to the top of the enclosure, which is 40mm, am I right?
Just two fullranges, playing stereo. Would I have to separate the baffles for a BSC to work? Or how would one make it work with a singular baffle, if possible
@@Toid so which baffle value would I use for the calculations? Thank you for replying, by the way. I'm new here and I appreciate the involvement and assistance, you've got a new subscriber!
Henry (Not Herny) after Joseph Henry, who discovered inductance around the same time as Michael Faraday. It has been controversial for many years, as to who discovered it first...
Why do you call mH mega henrys when its milli henrys. Its always u for micro, small m for milli and capital M for Mega same for all things electronic, micro, milli and mega. u,m,M even bits and Bytes follows the same smalls and caps convention, but service provider marketing bods get this muddled intentionally to make their systems seem faster than their competitors.
This is designed to give you back the lower end of the frequency response that will be lost due to baffle diffraction. So there is no need for this on a tweeter. It could be used on a woofer though. What are you trying to do? Attenuate the tweeter?
You need an Lpad, which would be installed after the crossover. Here's a calculator, which also shows you how to hook it up. Let me know if you have any questions. www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-Lpad.htm
In my experience, 6dB BSC is usually overkill. If a speaker is going near a wall or room isn't large I tend to find no BSC is even needed. I think a lot of people really don't factor in boundary reinforcement either, another thing that can negate the need for BSC.
Please stop saying millihernies it's milliHENRY and it isn't "and down from there" it's up from there since you are talking about treble and not bass frequencies that you are attenuating.
There are different types of design philosophies for fullrange drivers. Not many people who are using fullrange drivers are putting them in simple bass reflex boxes. And the whole philosophy behind using a single, fullrange driver is for coherence and doing away with expensive crossovers in the signal path.
