0:42 3 important variables 1:12 EPever MPPT 3:19 24V 1050W Example 4:21 12V 1050W Example 5:34 MPP LV2424 Example 7:18 OCPD for multiple strings 10:13 12V PWM Example *Does off-grid solar confuse you?* Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com *Join our DIY solar community* #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com *Check out my Book* Best-selling and beginner-friendly guide to 12V off-grid solar! amzn.to/2Aj4dX4 If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Energy! They will price out a system and get your house offgrid: ts.la/william57509 *My DIY Solar Equipment Recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first):* 12V/48V Lithium Solar Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html Complete Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html Plug-N-Play System Recommendations: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html Complete "Add to Cart" 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html *My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar Products:* *Signature Solar* Offgrid One-Stop-Shop. Best Value 48V LiFePO4, Victron and Offgrid Specific Heat Pumps: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek *Current Connected* SOK, Victron, Mr.Cool Heatpumps and High Quality Components. Fantastic customer support: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp *Litime* My favorite 12V budget battery!: www.litime.com/?ref=XBIA62RFcalHns *Epoch Batteries* My favorite high-quality 12V battery: www.epochbatteries.com/products/12v-460ah-lifepo4-battery-ip67-heated-bluetooth-victron-comms?rfsn=7352625.50494d *Renogy* A classic 12V solar store that has been around for ages! DC to DC Chargers and more! renogy.sjv.io/n1VjXx *Rich Solar* Renogy's biggest competitor! Similar products, but at a better price: richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek *Battery Hookup* Cheap cell deals bit.ly/2mIxSqt 5% off code: diysolar *Contact Information:* I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar *FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:* Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :) DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
Awesome. Because of your inspiration pickedcup Bluetti eb240. , 4 170 w panels. N more working to get for whole house. It runs all but dryer fridge n a/c. Next 5kw w battery bank. Thanks
I'm new to solar and after watching a few of your videos I believe that a MPP inverter charger is what best fits my needs but do I need a transformer with one of those or do you have one for the US? The ones on eBay say they are for Europe and need a transformer for the US?
All your free content is greatly appreciated and to be frank, you just seem like an amazing, contentious, good-hearted person. Videos have been great and the website has assisted me more times than I can count. Always learning something new about solar from you.
I don't know why I'm having such a hard time grasping how this all comes together but this video is one of the clearest I've seen. This whiteboard classroom style is really really good. Please keep doing these Will. Thank you!
Same here, putting together my first system and quite frankly..Will's videos are my go to for anything regarding this subject. I've planned this out over the last several weeks based off his tutorials and examples and the ordered parts are trickling in. Excited about starting my new build next week- wish me luck! And Will, thanks for sharing that knowledge, keep up the good work!
For paralleled string you could put one blocking diode at the end of each string. This way even if one string does perform upto expectation for whatever reason the other cannot source current into it. Would like your views on this.
seems good idea but you need a power diode to handle the current which is flowing through panels in the normal operation i guess also the diode must have a high reverse breakdown voltage
Lovely video I am a fan of you works from Nigeria. Please I want to ask a question, I have 3.5kva inverter which has requires PV input of 30-150vdc what happens if I connect all my panels in series that will produce 152v will it damage the inverter
I am doing a ground up RV build. All 110 volt appliances and air conditioner. No 12 volt anything. Can you do a vid on that. Just like a home system in an RV. 24 or 48 volt ? I can use/fit as many as 10 panels. Also not worried about cost to a limit. I can spend up to 13k. Thanks
If I want to do an offgrid setup for an entire 3000 sq ft home with 150 amp mains, would it be more cost effective to use multiple charge controller/battery bank/inverter setups to power different circuits rather that building one extremely powerful central system?
You can charge a Firefly to 85% really fast and discharge it down to 20% and this rate you'll only be able to cycle it just 1200 cycles. if you charge it up to full capacity and discharge down to 20% you can cycle it a proclaimed 3600 cycles.
I have a question for you since I am a beginner. I have 6 340w 46.2 voc solar panels. Can i use them and if so what charge controller and inveter should I use. I prefer 24 or 48v. Thanks.
@DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse - Will, you mentioned the need for OCPD on each individual array in parallel...do you size the amp fuse to each individual parallel array, or for the entire array? I've got four separate series and wondering if I need four OCPD's to satisfy 8 amps for each, or four OCPD's at 33 amps to protect the entire array. Many thanks if you happen to see this...
@@JM-yx1lm This is exactly why they need to cover grounding. That is not how grounding works. You need a GFP tracking your potential and need to know how to avoid ground loops. Grounding is far more complex than pos/negitive circuits.
Every video you make does not have any annoying music, is straight to the point, fast and clear. That is so hard to find on RU-vid! Thank you for that! Keep on making great content.
I’m so unfamiliar with many of the terms and their meanings that it’s hard to take coherent notes. Do you have a glossary of some sort that you could share for us beginners?
You mention you get frequent requests for the basics. You may want to consider putting links to some of you videos in the comments, and direct viewers to them. I always enjoy your content. I'm not building anything at the moment, but watching your videos gives me the confidence that I can do it myself. Thanks so much. :)
Wow ..... Your "Honesty" is staggering.... AND the reason you are no longer living in an RV.... Keep it up Bro !! We luv ya here in Melbourne Australia :)
I want you to give me good answer I have PV panel 100watt 12v, 7, and I have 120 watt 12v ,4,please can you give me best way to connect the panel together,my inverter is rated power 3000va/2400w, system voltage 24v, max solar voltage VOC)80VDC, which way is better as you're professional in solar ,give me way out to put it together thank,
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I wish other youtubers would take their instructional video tips from you. First of all, you didn't need to use background music as some kind of crutch/enhancement. The purpose of your video is instructional and I think you realize that trying to enhance your videos with crappy background noise only distracts and interferes with your instructions. Second, you already know the material and have the points clear in your head. You don't speak in a halting manner, you don't ramble, you explain clearly. You don't try to speak in an overly animated style and neither do you tone it down to the point that it puts people to sleep. Thirdly, you have great video quality. No shaking constantly moving screens, no blurry videos, and low sound quality. Fourthly, you use a good amount of visual aids and they're very effective. Fifthly, you actually respond to commenters. You don't just stick a video up there and then ignore the people who comment or ask questions. So many youtubers will upload an instructional video and then never even come back and respond to questions. So just thank you. Please don't change. I wish everyone could take tips from you.
100% agree with this. 9 times out of 10 music detracts from the video content, especially as you said, when the purpose of the video is instructional. I watch a lot of instructional videos in 2x speed (not these, though; my brain would explode), and having background music makes it annoying to listen to sped up. I wish more youtubers would cut out the crappy royalty-free music.
If I did it, you can do it! I didn't know anything - truly NOTHING - about solar and very little about basic house wiring a year ago when I bought my off grid cabin. With primarily, Wills videos, (and a lot of head scratching) I built my own complete system. I bought 3000 watts of used panels, MPPT 24 volt all-in-one system, sixteen Kelb cells to make two 24 volt batteries. If I had to do it all over, I would still use the MPPT and the same panels but would use the recycled 24 Volt Lief battery packs (see Wills video showing them). They are plug and play and about the same total cost of the Kelb cells with the BMS at none of the worry.
With solar charge controllers some operation can be close to thresholds while others may destroy the device. For example its not possible to exceed the maximum operating voltage (145v in the example here) without destroying the controller. Unfortunately in cold conditions what you calculate as the worst case panel open circuit as 135V may briefly go over 145V! Again with MPPT charge controllers the battery charging current is usually internally limited, so it can handle panels capable of sourcing higher current. However this is not the case with PWM controllers, which will definitely overheat & possibly destroy with higher than rated battery current!
The cold weather aspect is often overlooked. While charge controllers may have different numbers, Midnite Solar has a great calculator on their website that will take location temperature into account. Maximizing charge controller input is not easy. PMW controllers are not designed for large systems though. I only use them for a portable 200 watt panel at 12v
Thanks to you I set up my unpowered shed with solar and a battery bank. I started at 12v, but quickly calculated that using a 24v invertor would reduce the wiring cable sizes and other headaches. So I reconfigured for 24v. But then, that meant I needed to add a 24v to 12v dc to dc convertor. Nice warning about parallel strings. Thanks.
Great video Will! I would love to see a follow up video that covers the implications of mixing solar panels with different specifications. I see so many questions where people ask "I have 2 panels with [specifications A] and 1 panel with [specifications B]. Can I hook them both up and how much power would I get?"
Thanks for the video Will. I didn't know much about that inline fuse until now. Do you mind doing a video about the best ways to connect solar panels of different wattage and amperage ratings?
They sound pretty good.. must be pretty expensive. The highest efficiency sunpower panels cost around $600 each (australian dollars), from the retailer i'm looking at anyway.
@@jacksmith3421 I got 4 for $250 each including tax and chipping. I installed them today and so far so good. My 72 cells Serafine make about 8 amps but the Jinkosolar make 9 amps. I am impressed. They have the new type of cells that are more efficient.
Great contribution in Solar Energy education. Your passion in sharing and enthusiasm in Solar Energy development motivate us to move forward ... Will Prowse is awesome.
Lots of great technical details, well done. I would agree that it is very important to leave some "head room" in both voltage and wattage when designing a system. The rated output of a solar panel is determined under ideal laboratory conditions and in practical usage generally only produces real usable power of 75 to maybe 80%. Based on this, it would be tempting to install for example 500 watts worth of solar panels on a 400 watt charger which will work just fine most of the time. However, on certain days just after a good rain when the temps are down, air is clean and the clouds are breaking up there can be momentary magnifying effects that will actually intensify the sun so much that a solar array can produce more than its rated capacity. I've seen brief periods of up to 3.2 Kw from our 2.8 Kw system.
i just discovered your channel yesterday and must say you are the best teacher of that stuff i ever saw. Although i am a 50 years old analogue guy and my english could be better ( i am german ) i understand all well. It is a bit overwhelming because there are so many videos on your chanel and it is heavy to find out where to start. I know this and that about electric but not so much about electronic and computerstuff. But i think a little time investment and i will learn a lot. And although some things are different here compared to the US electrics and some Brands are unknown here it is easy to translate it to german brands or at least most are even chinese… Thanks a lot i just subscribed and will get your eBook.
Will Prowse You do a great job on your explanations. I'm 63 and a constant learner and I'm impressed on your teaching skills. BTW I bought your book as well for reference material. Fplks buy the book its worth every Penney!
Keeping under a max is great, but you don't mention *minimum* voltage. My inverter/charger doesn't even start to register incoming power until the PV array provides 150V, and if it drops below 120V it cuts out. I had to revise my 4S3P array to 6S2P to get enough to keep working.
Will you do an excellent job explaining this stuff I have some background in electrical so this stuff is spot on keep up the good work you are awesome!
Good timing Will, just working on a cheap pwm 4 panel 400 watt12v for my small rv for camping, not to live in but to keep the water pump and lights going. Keep up the great work
Hi Will! I really enjoy your videos and have learned a lot however, you made a mistake with your voltages and wattages when putting then in series and parallel. You do not add both values, it is always one or the other. In series, you add the voltages together but the wattage stays the same (Example: three 45v/100 watt panels in series would be 100 watts @ 135v. Those same panels in parallel would be 300 watts @ 45v).
Mr. Prowse, My sister and I have been watching your great videos for a while now and we love them. We are subscribed as well. You have insprired us to build our own solar panel system. We have aquired 4 100-watt panels, a 60-amp epever charge controller, a 3000-watt Renogy inverter, 11 35ah batteries, an epever blue tooth module for monitoring with my Iphone and we are using 6-gauge wire. We have only been able to get around 90 watts at 5 or 6 amps during peak sunlight and we are wondering if this is normal or are we doing something wrong. The settings on the controller are: User 12V, Low Temperature Prohibits Charge 0, Low Temperature Prohibits Discharge 0, Battery Capacity 385 ah, Temperature Compensation 0, Equalize Duration 0, Boost Duration 180, Max Voltage 15.5, Min Voltage 12.92, Over Voltage Disconnect Voltage 16, Charging Limit Voltage 15.8, Over Voltage Reconnect Voltage 14.4, Equalize Charging Voltage 14.8, Boost Charging Voltage 14.8, Float Charging Voltage 14.8, Boost Reconnect Charging Voltage 14.7, Low Voltage Reconnect Voltage12.6, Under Voltage Warning Voltage12, Low Voltage Disconnect Voltage 11.1 and Discharging Voltage 11. We have never been able to charge our battery bank over 46% and we have only been able to go as far as 70 %, a couple of times. We bought 4 more 100-watt Ecoworthy panels to add so that we can try to get more amps going into the batteries. Any advice on our problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the great service that you are providing with your channel.
I am glad to see you do a video of this nature for several reasons. First let me start by saying your either your articulation skills have improved or my knowledge on solar has vastly improved due to your former videos I watched before taking on a 10K Watts 48V system. Because, I still run a couple of 800W 24V systems, I like to watch you videos in this arena to see new MPPT controllers be tested alongside the battery testing you do. Some of this equipment wears out and need repairs or replacement every so often. Thanks again, Will , for sharing your genius in solar systems!
I agree. It's a complicated topic because everyone's situation is different. I had to reconfigure my panels 4 times over 6 months to get the maximum out of my system.
Wow had me scratching my head on this one. Was way confused on how you got the voltage to be additive in parallel and watts additive in series. Blew my mind for more than a minute... Great videos Will
I have just setup my solar charging system for my small food truck. 2-100w panels, 30amp controller, 1500w inverter and 1-100 mah battery. I tried a small coffee maker and the inverter bells were going off many times and I shut it off. I have another battery but don’t know if I hook it up in parallel or series?? I need more amps?? Thanks
Yo compre un sistema Renogy de 600w con un inversor de 3,000w y 2 baterías de gel híbridas tu me podrías facilitar un diagrama de como instalarlo, por lo menos la mejor configuración que tu opines me pueda servir, lo que necesito es corriente para un tv, un aire pequeño y un refrigerador de oficina que es lo que tengo lo pienso instalar en un RV discúlpame no hablo inglés y si hay algo mal escrito es por el traductor gracias y perdona por la molestia que te pueda causar. I bought a 600w Renogy system with a 3,000w inverter and 2 hybrid gel batteries, could you provide me with a diagram of how to install it, at least the best configuration that you think can help me, what I need is power for a TV, a small air conditioner and an office refrigerator, which is what I have; I plan to install it in an RV. Excuse me, I don't speak English and if there is something misspelled, it's because of the translator. Thank you and sorry for the inconvenience it may cause you.
Hello Will. Most of your viewers who are RVer have a starter battery and house batteries like myself. So I like to park for several weeks off grid. At present I have 4 lead acid batteries. So I will start with 200 watts of solar, lead acid start and 100 A Lithium. I am very frugal with electricity. How should I use my alternator when moving to charge both types of batteries. Thanks John
Hey I have got 5kw inverter48v 4×200ah gel batteries 2x455watt solar panels But I can not use it for more than one hour on the evening what could be the problem. Should I add another 2 solar panels
If i have a maximum target of 1kw consumption, would it be better to buy 2x 500w panels or 4 x 250w or another configuration? i note that the higher panels have more amperage which would mean a more expensive charge controller. Very earlier on beginner trying to understand waht is best. (im also restricted to a maximum of 4 panels due to roof space)
I have Epever tracer 4215bn solar charger that I got a few years ago for my lead acid batteries and seemed to work good but now just purchased Li time100 amp battery but it doesn’t seem to be charging the battery which is down to 63%. I do live in Michigan so not the best for solar battery is above 32 degrees two 100 watt panels . Have it on sealed setting which I thought you or somebody suggested since there no setting for lithium
14 100Ah lifepo4 batteries w/o grid tie-in. 1 5kw (10kw peak) inverter that just keeps beeping and won't work now for some reason idky, and one 4kw inverter that seems to be working just fine.
Hi will, what would be nice , if you can build a solid 6kw system from scratch. Would love to see that because even the all in one mppt inverter does not go that far
If the controller is 20 amps has 100 pv max voltage isn't that 2000 watts of solar? When you convert down to 12V the current goes way up if that is the limit then likely the 20 amp limit.
I thought you added up the VOC. Not the Watts.. I never did check that out on my solar controller. I don't even know how many watts it can handle. everything is so confusing ..I've even had this one system going for a while and I thought I had it all correct. I didn't know you could have too many watts if the voc was okay...
Series = add voltage, amps stay the same. Parallel= add amps, voltage stays the same. What's the use of talking about the wattage but not the amperage?
Will Prowse made our system possible. After watching countless videos we began to understand things enough to finally make a decision. For us, the hybrid system all in one was answer. We got Geowatt grid assist system and bought from one of Wills suggested suppliers. We’re not running but half the system right now since we’re waiting on our batteries to arrive. But in the mornings I love when the system turns on and is producing. And it starts very early in the day. Surprisingly, it also stays on later in the evening than we ever would have imagined. We are quite pleased even with just half the system up.
Question on solar panel roof placement and impact to optimal power. Currently have four 180 watt panels with 2 on one side and two on the other side of a peaked roof. They are wired in series. The peaked roof is east west so there is good sun am to pm. Am i introducing loss by having them all in series or should i split 2 series and one side roof connected in parallel with the other side?
I love your videos however I noticed thatin this basic set-up you don't mention anything about a shunt or the need for one. Can you do a video explaining the need for a shunt?
Will you are the absolute best. I’ve been watching you for several years and am always impressed. I’m totally geeking out on you videos now that I’m setting up my system! Love it
Will... thank you for saving me alot of stress and money. Your videos and book have helped so much. And way to go! I don't know what's more inspirational your personal story or wanting to share with people everything you had learned. Enjoy the fruits of your labor my friend.
Thanks Will! Helps me out a lot with choosing and wiring in my RV's solar array. Will be: 2x100w panels in parallel --> 30A PWM charge controller (renogy wanderer 100W charge kit + 100w panel) --> 2 x 215AH 6v golf cart batteries in series --> 500W inverter until I get my bigger inverter. Will add a battery monitor when I can too. Solar panel ordered, can't wait to test it out
I have three 330 watt Panasonic panels, 67v/6amp all wired in parallel. Do you recommend those inline mc4 fuse connector before connecting to my branch connector?
Please be careful, most of the wiring in the back of the solar panels are rated for a max current of 20 amps (AWG 12 ) and NEC recommends using only 80% of that for a total of 16 amps. Putting multiple strings in parallel will increase the current and you can have a potential fire on your roof.
I love your teaching abilities and you for all of you have helped me getting started! Thank you so much! You provide millions like myself a real service and not to mention the solar industry a chance for really great advertisement of their newest products!!!
Will, Another Great Video. As others have commented, watching your videos is like being in a tech school or college classroom. This video was particularly helpful. I am starting to build a solar system from scratch and I am learning from you! I appreciate your attention to detail and also your referrals to equipment. I haven’t heard your story yet as to how you stopped being homeless but if there is a link available please direct me I would love to hear the story. As long as you sincerely try to help other people there is no way you will be able to fail at what you do! That is simply a universal truth. Thanks again so much!
WILL please just do a video on the panel config of an 60 amp controller with 800 watt aco or renogy system and explain how too add two more panels to the sytem to max out the 60 amp controller to a 1000 watt system. this is now the standard small sytem in a house that a homeowner will buy and it will be safer for people to do plus less confusing to alot of people. or email me and i will produce it myself. i am new too youtube video making. if you describe it i can do it.
The Epever controllers have highest efficiency with input voltage close to output voltage. The low light output being increased by series connecting panels is also a bit of a myth because panel voltage has got very close to Vmp before any significant power is produced. With the Epever as well they don’t start tracking until input CURRENT is 1.5A. With series connection this can mean you actually lose out on a fair bit of power because, until that current is reached, the controller holds the array at about a volt over battery voltage. In parallel doing this both doesn’t lose you much but also shortens the time before the controller starts tracking. The only real advantage to series with these controllers is where there are long distances from panels to controller and where there are no partial shading problems. Parallel connection mitigates these. Obviously some controllers are better than others and the comments I made are specific to the Epever.
Good job covering material, I remember a number of yeats ago when I got my first MPPT charger, the ( Renogy 40 amp Commander) I did enjoy doing the Math and calculating what it could and couldn't handle. Take Care.
hello my name is Muriel I live in Belgium. would it be possible to show how to lay electricity cables from the main board to various points in your camper. Thanks for all you great videos.
Assuming your pool pump operates from DC you generally just need sufficient current to meet surge demand on startup and the pump must rated for the high voltage PV panels tends to produce e.g. 21V. For example, if your pump's surge load is, say 12A, a typical 100W PV panel would generate around 5.5A in ideal conditions so you might get away with 2 x 100W connected in parallel. The specs you'd be looking for is the 'stalled rotor current' on the pump and 'Isc' ( _Current Short Circuit_ ) on your PV panel(s). But other than that, there should be no reason why you cannot run a (DC) pool pump directly from solar ( _during the day, obviously!_ )
Great video this plus your book is a real help. I am putting three 400 watt panels on a van and this plus reading the comments has answered a few questions. Always a thumbs 👍.
Thanks for the refresher! I'm building an off-grid building for my beehives and am just about ready to order panels. This video will help me to not screw things up.
@@4philipp the drones need the computers so they can oogle over naughty queen pics. Lol The electrical needs are going to power a laptop for data collection and temperature/humidity control.
@@MaxMax-dq1lu each hive will have something like you suggest, and the laptop will be used to consolidate the data. It'll likely wake up periodically to poll the hives.
Finally, the video I've been looking for. I have, or will have 4 x 45v, 300 watt panels that I want to build a 24v charge system with for an off grid, art studio cooled with a small mini-split. All the MPPT's seem to stop at 150v, and I'm at 180-200 if wired in series based on the calculator you had in another video. I was planning on getting a combiner box.
How can a person wire up a net metering system and have a switch on that system that can prevent voltage going to grid and switch over to batteries for off grid use Incase power goes out
Solar charge controllers (SCC) usually come in two flavours: PWM ( _older_ ) and MPPT ( _newer_ ). Pulsed Width Modulation (PWM) charge controllers are old tech, and certainly wouldn't be recommended these days. They are basically a fancy switch, connecting the PV directly to the battery. Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) charge controllers operate completely differently, essentially converting the higher PV voltage down to a voltage suitable for the battery and thereby separating the PV array from the battery. These are generally speaking around 30% more efficient ( _in low light or varying conditions_ ).
Typically, no. Solar charge controller has the specific purpose of collecting the energy from the panel, and converting it into a voltage that is usable, and safe, to charge your battery.
Hi Will, Great Video, I understood what you were on about, and learn something new about fire risks. My solar array is feeding a 48v system with a 2840W solar array at 76v, with a mixture of paired panels 255w and 200w all rated at 36v all come together in a DC solar mini breakers housed in a metal fuse box. The solar controller is MPP 60A rated and can easily handle this input. Lighting strikes are my concern, I have the solar panels Earthed to an Earth Rod to avoid static, but have not yet taken any steps to avoid lighting strikes, protection system are available but would be interested in you input on this subject?. One observation to note is location; I live in Mid Wales UK where the suns energy drops off quite considerably during the winter months. Last Autumn I tried adding 20% more solar and a further 20% in mid winter. This help to keep the battery bank topped up. But there were weeks when the cloud density is so think no solar got through. So I aim to add a battery charger, using cheap night time energy after my car has charged. Timing is everything in this case as the car takes around 1h 30min to charger to 80%, that's all I need for my daily commute. But I also want to introduce Inferred heating panels to the house to heat up in the mornings, so I might use a combination of the two. Keep up the good work! Ken
You can over watt victron charge controllers. They will throttle at the maximum specified watt. I know lots of people that will put a 1000 watts of solar on a controller rated for 800 watts. These systems work better in lower light conditions because the extra panels help make up for the inherent loses of the panels allowing the controller to run closer to 800 all the time. If the sun kicks everything over 800, it just throttles back. I haven't actually tried this yet, but i plan on giving it a shot with in the next 2 months on my yacht.
Yeah, I agree that high pv input voltage is the way to go. I see my battery bank getting so much more useable power in low light situations and during the morning/evening times. I found the Epever tracer 40a a great controller. Seen it go over 40a at peak times but it never seems to get hot
