Here I go over some of the most common problems that affect these Hayward, formerly Summit Heat pump or thermopump pool heaters. Flo (no flow) and LP (low pressure) are just some of the many problems that affect these units.
Thanks for the video it was very informative. My question is I would like to run my Sum 4 with a variable speed water pump, but the water pressure switch is triggering a “low flow” error and won’t engage the heat. I’m thinking of replacing it by a digital programmable water pressure switch which would allow me to program a pressure range for it to close and engage the heat. Obviously it can’t be too low ‘cause I don’t it to overheat, but what do you think? Or do you have any suggestions?
great video......my hay/summit xl140 is not sending signal to contractor coil.....not low on r410a, lp and hp and Flo all ohm out, no codes.....replaced board and contactor, ...when I turn it on, everything seems fine,,,,after 3 min, the flame indicators appear but does not energize the contractor coil......unit is less than 2 years old.....is there anything in the board setup I need to look at? I went through the setup as best I could...is not setup for remote etc. when I manually energize the contractor, comp runs and A/C grades react normally
I have a 3 year old just out of warranty Hayward HP21404T that has an issue. The other day it was not heating and panel read “Lo Flo”. It was shut off until today and when I turned it on it is now reading “HP”. I have read what the code means but didn’t know if you might have an idea based on age of unit. So far every Hayward component has failed and this was the last item with a problem but sadly now it’s out of warranty.
Great video, will help me look for the issue on my Summit. Any tips of what I should look at first? I get an F5 error code but it's not cold outside at all. The compressor starts but the fan doesn't?
you're getting the FS because the compressor is running and the fan is not dissipating the cold out of the unit. It could be a capacitor could be the fan relay in the board or it could be the fan. Since this was from three months ago im assuming youve already made the repair or replacement
Bonjour Jean-François, j'ai le même problème actuellement F5 ou FS ... as-tu été en mesure de résoudre ton problème ? Si oui, as-tu un conseil pour moi ? Merci
very good video i have a dream 12.5kw unit its has no display compressor fan running , copper pipe hot up to the heat exchange , i am gussing it may be the pcb because i have changed the display for a new device and still not working , water outlet to pool cold
Great information video!! My unit is a lot like this one and it will start up, run for about 30 seconds and then shut off. Any idea why it’s doing this and what I can check and troubleshoot on it?
Great Video: I have a Hayward Summit XL, entering 2 season of use. Fan runs but not getting at heat output at the inlet. Fan blowing cold air BUT I have not measure the delta T yet. Any suggestions?
If the fan is blowing cold air then the condenser coil must be pumping out heat to the water... These thermopump units are slow and can take a good week to get a large size pool up to temp. Especially at the beginning of the season.
@@QuaabQueb It actually was working. I realized later that the air was to dry to facilitate a good heat exchange. As humidity increased so did heat pump efficiency. Thank you for the help. Great Channel - shoot the bird ;)
I have a TTI heater with the exact same control panel and electric components like the summit in the video. I get the FLO code although there is flow and there's no obstruction. I changed the flow switch and is still have the FLO code. I tested the switch with a meter by turning on and off the pump and the switch it works. I even shorted the terminals where the switch goes, and I still get the alarm. Any ideas???
@QuaabQueb, awesome video dude. My buddy has a similar unit (Hayward Heatmaster) He didn't properly store it during the winter and the cpvc split. Does the whole coil have to be replaced? Worth saving?
@@justinhussey2376 Probably not. I would try the easiest and cheapest thing first. Try and sand down the split. Get a section of 2" pvc pipe, cut a slot on and then warm it with the heat gun to open it up, you are making a sort of "patch" you can slide over the split pipe and glue it on with pvc primer and cement. It may hold for a year or two. You can try and find a donor unit on marketplace. People often give them away for free when they crap out. Keep in mind the titanium heat condenser coil is running through the cpvc coil. You will need an hvac technician to come pull a vacuum on the unit, disconnect the coil, install the new one and recharge. That service call may be worth more than the cost of the unit unless you know a guy in the field
Amazing video! I've got a Hayward that looks nearly identical to this. Fan works fine, no error codes, but the compressor tries to kick on and it makes a loud buzzing noise for 3 seconds and then nothing. Doesn't sound like the compressor kicks on at all, so no heat. Any ideas? Could it be the compressor capacitor? why wouldn't it have any error codes? TIA
@@QuaabQueb Not the capacitor... tested a perfect 79.7 microF... replaced it anyways and didn't solve. Noticed a loud buzz is actually coming from the contactor switch, so now I'm wondering if that's it? I ordered a $12 replacement arriving in 2 days... let's see.
Also wasn't the contractor; replaced it, and still no luck. I'm stumped. I check the continuity of all three prongs on the compressor in all combinations... all good. when compressor tried to kick on I get a voltage drop from 246 to 200 or so, but I assumed that is normal for startup... just mine won't start up. any other ideas on what to check?
@@madeleinedelson4109 I have exactly the same issue. Changed capacitor, didn't do the contractor yet. Resistance check gives me around 3 ohms in all combinations. Not sure if it is normal. When compressor try to start, the breaker trips. Do you have any suggestion?
How do I replace the master switch on a Hayward HP50-TA? Switch works, but is very hard to move. I suspect it's probably corrosion because it doesn't appear to be weather sealed in any way. I believe the newer ones have a clear flexible cover built in.
Just pushes out from the back side of the panel with some retention clips on the back side of the switch it self. The contacts inside may have melted. You can use any switch the same size and current rating. You can find them at local electronics stores. Just make sure the dimensions are the same.
@@QuaabQueb Thank you! I also posed the same question to Hayward on their official website over three weeks ago. Never got a reply, but today I received a new switch from Hayward with the notation, "warranty replacement." Life is good! Thanks again for your help regarding installation. I
Hi, the flexible piping on mine has leaks. Tried to put epoxy, silucone, flex tape ect...nothing holds. Can I just cut the leaking portion of piping and replace it with new one and fitings
Great Video, I have to replace my sensor water temperature in my summit Pool Heater heat Pump. I buy the part SMX306000024 but i can't find where is it in the pump. Can you know where is it 6 thank you.
I've got a a unit with no error codes, the fan is spinning, the water flow is good but it is not heating the water. I noticed there is no condensation water at the base on the concrete slab it sits on. it's 5 years old. I have just opened the unit to take a look but have not diagnosed anything and I'm not educated at all in this stuff. Any suggestions before the service technician gets here in 4 days?
I have an issue. I have an HP error which means waterflow is low. The system cycles off within a few second of cycling on. The flow is fine, The pressure switch is fine but I ran out of things to look for. I got taken last year on a repair and would really like to do what I can prior to calling a tech. I've been looking for a water flow sensor in the unit but can not find it. It is the same system as the one in this video. It is a salt water pool. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks
Could be a band switch, or an issue with the refrigerant charge. Flow issues I have only seen with variable speed pumps when they are set to run at low RPM.
@@QuaabQueb You mean the water pressure switch? I checked it and even changed it out and it still does it. Is there a flow switch anywhere in that unit? I know there's one in the piping for the salt water.
@@QuaabQueb What should be the resistance between each combinations (common, run, start) of a good compressor? I am getting about 3 ohms for all, is it normal. Mine too tripps the breaker :-(
The clear tube running from the pressure flow switch came off the end that connects to the pipe in the back…looks like the piece that was connected to the pipe broke off….how would I repair that? It looks like something was kinda just screwed into the pipe with a nipple like thing coming off the top for the tub to slid over….does that sound right?
So this happened to me as well yesterday! How do I get to that back pipe? And where can I find the pressure kit assembly I’ve looked all over the internet. I have a Hayward summit xl
@@St4r_girly so I was actually able to find everything I needed at Lowes….my switch was still good so I just got the same size clear tubing from plumbing section in Lowes and found a brass barbed fitting in the plumbing section and used epoxy to kinda glue it back into that pipe…drilled out the hole so the brass fitting would push down into it….connected other end to pressure switch fitting….BAM the heater kicked right on!!! Hope this helps ya!! I took the top off where the fan is…got to it that way….definitely a stretch but easier to see everything…
@Chargero wonder if you can help me trouble shoot? My heat pump will not turn on at all. I have power. My display will not turn on and if I press the bypass coil to give power directly to compressor and fan nothing happens. I can see that power makes it across when I press the coil in.
@@QuaabQueb You think so even if I get a reading once I press the bypass coil in? Wouldn't that mean it is getting power? Although it does not turn on the compressor or fan.
@@gbanks The contactor is the only thing between the mains lines coming in to the unit and the compressor/fan. The Control circuits are powered by a transformer that drops 120V to 24V
@@gbanks Test it. Check voltage output on the secondary. Follow the terminals from the transformer to the board. But when you depress the contactor it should kick on the fan/compressor. You are effectively bypassing the control circuit that energizes the contactor coil. Are your fan/compressor capacitors good? I have seen power surges blow these units. Typically a ruptured capacitor is a sign.
Great video! Thought the effing bird was outside my window for a second. Is the flow switch tube supposed to have water flowing through it ? I see air bubbles and a bit of water in mine and am wondering if Its air locked and simply needs the air bled out of tube Thanks again for the great video
Hi, I have a Summit_XL_Hayward, when I turn on the breaker the fan works, but the screen doesn't show anything and the water doesn't go warm. Does someone know what could be?
hey, so I have a Hayward heat pump. The fan runs., but when the condenser kicks on runs for about 30 seconds then bogs out. and then the lp come code comes on, tries all over again. Any ideas on what it could be? I changed the capacitor already.
@@QuaabQueb yeah i looked at them but too cold isn't a problem because I live in Florida . i am thinking that I might have to bite the bullet and get a new heater
So I had the white pvc pipe in the back of this unit explode, after the company opening the pool for me didn't open he valves and ran the pump causing a buildup of pressure. Is there a way to lift the copper surround on this unit to be able to get to the pvc pipe in the back and replace them? I'll pay for guidance not looking to get something free out of you, I know it's your job.
I have the same heater and it will shut off after around 3 minutes and it trips the breaker on my panel. I took it apart and nothing looked bad, can you provide any help? Thanks
@@Hopeslayyyyyyy If it's setting the breaker then something is shorting. I would recommend using a clamp style meter to monitor the current and see if and where it's rising. You say it "runs" for 3 minutes. Is the compressor on for 3 minutes? Or is it setting the breaker as soon as the compressor kicks on.
@@QuaabQueb I think it's kicking out when the compressor kicks in, because the fan and screen are operating fine but I'm not positive when the compressor is supposed to kick in. I appreciate the help, I have an old multi meter, maybe I will dust it off to see if there's a short.
@@Hopeslayyyyyyy You would need a clamp style multimeter that you can clamp on the wires. If it's setting the breaker as soon as the compressor kicks on then it could be a seized compressor. It's possible it could also be a defective breaker
I have a new just installed raypack. Never run. Trips on high pressure. I checked the water flow. Well above 40gpm. Coil temp drops on start up gets to about 35f. Then compressor shuts down. Ambient temp is 53-55. Water temp 49f. Kinda head scratching my head. I have no bypasses. Possible to much refrigerant from factory? Trips in less the 2min
@@Bottlejack1 I'm not an hvac technician so my experience is limited with with refrigeration. If the unit is brand new something is likely not hooked up right. Try and find the manual for your particular model of unit. All of the operating specifications will be listed and you can begin to troubleshoot from there.
Today, the same unit gave me a dsd ou d5d code. The display light up and shows the water temp for 5 seconds than I get this code and nothing works. I can't find anything related to this error code anywhere. Any ideas ? Thanks
The error codes and their meanings are listed in the manual if I remember correctly, did you check there? You can google the model number and should be able to find the manual.
@@QuaabQueb Thank you ! No, it's not in the manual. But I finally found the info. It means "defrost sensor defect". I ordered this part and I am going to replace it. We will see ...
@@QuaabQueb I search so hard that I can't find back from where. It was in a forum I think. I already got the part yesterday. Will try to install shortly. I will tell you if it solved the issue
I have a Hayward electric heat pump. It was tripping the breaker once in a while I would reset the breaker and it would heat and work with no problem. It did that a couple times and now the fan won't come on. I replaced the fan and the capisitors and it still won't come on any idea what it could be.
@@QuaabQueb any idea where to start, I pushed coil contactor in and the compressor gets super hot really quick. I have checked all wiring and it looks good. I have power going to the fan.
@@timdogsprincess check the compressor windings with a multimeter. I have seen the pins blow out so look at them carefully to see if thru look burnt or damaged. Always be careful poking around in there as the capacitors can hold a charge for some time.
@@QuaabQueb will do I have checked the ones at the capacitors and the contact switch, they look good. I will check the wire connector right at the compressor.
@@timdogsprincess yes look up how to test compressor winding resistance. You can also use a clamp type multimeter to check the current draw of the unit. If it is pulling abnormally high current you know there is a problem. Remember the circuit breaker is an overcurrent protection device. It's function is to open the circuit if something is abnormal. Ex.: A direct short back to the source (not ground!!) , or an overloaded piece of equipment.
trying hard not to smash this thing but anyways. New capacitor, new contactor ..not starting up. Shows the pool light and current temp of water but...le sigh nothing happening. The ole' push on the contactor with a screwdriver turns it on though...maybe I'll just keep the position. I'll try the water pressure switch trick tomorrow. What is that black part called that I'll be hitting up the electronic store for please and thank you.
@@QuaabQueb thanks for the reply - already did - the top panel is on global back order. Have had one on order for the last 3 months. Good video though!
@@QuaabQueb same question. the pvc pipe is leaking. the side opposite from where the electrical box is... the white PVC on the bottom horizontal to ground. its got a split and i don't know how to get access over there.
I have this same shitbox and after a dozen uses the low pressure switch died. One year old unit. I had an AC company come out and put gauges on it, full charged. Bought another LP switch that lasted 2 days. Had to hotwire it to run, which it did fine for 2-3 uses. Ice built up on the last use. Now, no heat output. I want to punt this pile of shit through the goalposts of life. Nobody services these in my area. I guess I need to buy gauges now.
They are pretty good units compared to a lot of the crap on the market. It sounds like you may have other issues. I would start by checking the charge once again and make sure it is within manufacturer specs. It may be over charged. If you have a residential HVAC guy who is not familiar with pool heaters specifically he may have fucked it up. If you keep popping LP switches that hints me that the unit may be over charged. Good luck...
Apparently youtube needs a rating system, you made it less than a minute without using the F word. There are still people in this world that are bothered by this, I am one of them. Too bad for me I guess, but I won't watch farther.
Top grille comes off. Simply remove the screws around the sides. Trace the wires back in to the cabinet and disconnect them. Take pictures before unplugging anything so you can see how it goes back together.
@@QuaabQueb I did it you are amazing thank you!!!!! Now time to figure out what the heck is a FS error I'm golden lol 😆 have a great one thank you for the help again !
@@TrishZenCorner Google the manual and go to the error codes list, all the error codes and their explanations are listed as well as a brief troubleshooting tip
