Let me know if you have used this video to diagnose your machine, and how it went. Hit that like button if this video helped you out, or learned something new. Thanks for watching!!
Greg, I just wanted to share my success story with you. I was asked by a friend to repair her oven. Assuming the problem was the igniter, I said I could do it. Upon inspection and testing, I found that the igniter was good, as was the gas safety valve. Using the schematic on the back of the range, I determined that the yellow wire coming from the control board connector sends power to the igniter. There was no power at this point. I could hear the gas relay on the control board close. I opened the control board and found that the connection between the relay and the yellow wire pin was open. I shorted this connection with a tool and the igniter lit up. So, I soldered in a new wire and the oven is now working. Thanks for your tips and for responding to the comments on this video.
Very helpful video. Thank you. I have a Maytag gas stove that has an oven and a broiler each of which its own igniter. Because neither the oven or broiler igniter lights up when turned on, am I correct in assuming the control panel is bad and not providing power to the igniters? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for watching KeithChildress, depending on the exact stove that can be caused by a thermostat if it has a high limit, or could be a spark module if it has one, or a broken wire somewhere. Last would be the board, I would trace power starting at the board and see where it is lost.
I have a whirlpool gas model SF387LEGN 3. The " CANCEL, CANCEL, START, doesn't do anything. It still shows the time. My burners work but oven doesn't. I havent turned it on for a long time because I was scared to try. Do you have any suggestions? I want to try and turn it on to see if it works but afraid since I havent for so long! I took the oven top cover off and found a piece of foil inside opening . I didnt remove the 2nd cover I had to use tweezers to get foil out of opening. Obviously I need help😂
Greg, Thanks for the video. I am not getting power to my igniter. The igniter is good. I ran it directly with a pigtail. It pulls about 3.56 amps. The safety valve checks out too. How do I diagnose the control board? This is for an older frigidaire gas range.
Thanks for watching uf6yl3tp8v, I would trace power backwards from the ignitor, there is sometimes a thermal fuse that if blown won't let power get from board to ignitor.
Am I correct thinking that whirlpool and frigidaire range parts are interchangeable? I have a frigidaire range and the service manual is missing so no instructions for how to enter diagnostic mode. It doesn't have a start button. Can you tell me where I may find the correct button sequence online?
There will always be a few parts that can pass off as able to use for most manufacturers. There is so many ways to get into diagnostic mode for every manufacturer. The way I do it is search online under your model number, if that doesn't come up with much then just search for frigidaire stove diagnostic mode, that will usually bring up at least a couple ways to get into diagnostic mode. Thanks for watching Tara
hi Greg good evening what's up..I have a whirlpool gas stove but the oven won't light I changed the igniter and the gas valve and still it won't light .. can I do this diagnostic test to see if something happens.?
I would check and see if your getting power to the ignitor, and if so work your way back to the board. I would check to see if there is a thermostat somewhere that could be blown. does the broil work?. Thanks for watching Charles Bonnie.
@@Thomasappliance similar question. My gas oven will not light, but the stove tops and broil work fine. I have replaced the ignitor and opened the air inlet fully. When it's trying to light, if I crack the door to the oven it will light each time I do this. Thoughts? Could it be the fan not circulating or something? It seems like when I crack it, it gets just enough air to work.
@@jakobhaderlie8473 Thanks for watching, thats a tough one to say different stoves use different ways that they allow ignition to happen, if you can get your hands on a service manual for your unit it might be able to guide you a little better.
@@Thomasappliance thanks. I plugged it 8n and unplugged it several times and it finally acted right. I set the clock and am back 8n business. Thanks for your promptness💖
I have a gas range with a brand new control board. Brand new igniter. Tested power to the board, also tested power from the terminal block and tested the igniter. All are good. Yet the igniter will not light. Any ideas?
@Greg Thomas The only other thing I could think that might interrupt the power to the igniter would be a very dead temperature Thermostat Probe. Thoughts?
@Greg Thomas yeah also did that. Of course the fuses are more common on a full electric but yes there are no high limit fuses on this one. Wires are not charred. It's a mystery. Thank you for responding! I appreciate your video
QUESTION: I recently replaced my temperature probe but I'm still getting the same error code, is it necessary to clear an error code after replacing a part???
Thanks for watching Frank Z, some stoves you have to clear the codes but most of them no. The temp probe is also connected to the board which usually needs to be replaced with sensor based on error code.
@@Thomasappliance Yeah, I recently got an "E2F3" on my Whirlpool built-in oven.. Note, often this error is quoted as "F3E2" but it appears as "E2F3" on my model's console display. The trouble-shooting manual pointed to the temp sensor as a possible cause. I replaced it but still get the same error/issue. So I thought perhaps I needed to clear the error code on the console after replacing that part; similar to what you'd do when you get a warning on your vehicle's dashboard.
Yeah I've seen that quite a bit the sensor and board and wiring all work hand in hand to determine temp in stove, if you changed the sensor and the wiring is good, your left with a board as the issue.
@@Thomasappliance Yeah, I sent the control board away to a company called "Circuit Board medics" in South Carolina... It is due back tomorrow.. Hopefully that fixes the issue.
Before they started putting circuit boards into all our appliances, they lasted for decades. Now, you have to replace circuit boards every few years & they keep making money off us suckers. Then, they cease making the circuit boards available & you get to throw the appliance out & buy another from them.
Thanks for watching lintoncasimir, this is one of my first videos, I was was just pretty happy that I figured out how to edit the video, and yes the music was quite a bit louder than most other videos.
