Here is a step-by-step list of instructions for this model year from CarAndTruckRemotes.com (not a sponsor): blog.carandtruckremotes.com/2015/11/05/2009-2010-2011-2012-and-2013-toyota-corolla-free-programming-instructions-for-remote-head-key-keyless-entry-remote-fob-alarm/
Ugh, it usually isn't a matter of encryption length. If your original key won't start it, and you have no spare, you may have to go to a dealer or locksmith to program a new master key, and for that you typically have to have the manufacturer master four-digit PIN that was assigned to the vehicle when it was manufactured. That normally comes on a small rectangular plate with all the original sale paperwork or is taped to the original manuals. It frequently gets lost., or the selling dealer conveniently "forgets" to give it to the original buyers this forcing the to the dealer if all keys are lost. You can erase all keys from the immobilizer with some tools, but you typically cannot program a new *initial* (first) key without the PIN. I suppose if you have no way of starting the car right now you have nothing to lose by trying, but understand the risks if you go in to the IMMO menu, find an option to erase all keys, then cannot (for some or any reason) program a new one.
You're a lifesaver! My 2015 Toyota Corolla never cycled the door lock during the entire process, but I followed the instructions all the way through and it still worked!
This worked on my 2016 corolla. My key and spare were not working. I assumed the battery died so I changed it. I assumed the spare died from not being used for years. I got one key to be reprogrammed. The other one I assume the battery is dead. Thank you Dave you saved me a ton of money at the dealership.
Thanks Dave! Tried a few sequences that other Tubers posted with no luck. Your's did the trick!! (Note: my 2012 Camry did NOT audibly cycle mid-program and I had to run through the steps twice but it did successfully program the remote. Go figure🤷♀️)
Thank you so much I watched this video 20 times Doing every action as you did them on a 2017 Corolla getting frustrated because the locks wouldn’t cycle and it wasn’t working . Then I paused the video and tried to remember all the steps and I’m pretty sure I did them incorrectly but somehow the locks cycled I press the lock and unlock button and the key worked 😃.
@@leotorres7588 I think the one step that I did that wasn’t in the video is I started the car I think it is assumed that when you go to program the car you drove it in somewhere not that it has been sitting in the driveway not running
Tried 5 times and only cycled the doors. Opened and clean the black rubery cover then it worked perfectly, 🤔 why, Who knows🤷🏻♂️! But it worked 💫🥳 Thanks a lot for your advice.
Awesome video. Will try this tomorrow morning can't wait. Just had a question I broke my original key. The black alarm part fell off but the key part I still have will this be enough for me to cut the new key fob blank I purchased and then follow these instructions?
For cutting the key, it depends on whether your key shop can secure what you have in the machine to use it as a template. Hard to say for sure. Thanks for the kind words, and for watching! Let us know how it turns out.
Just did it right now and it worked! I'm so happy thank you so much. I have to figure out something else out the check engine snf the Trac off sign is showing for some reason
update. today i went to cut the keys, and the surprise was that only works for lock and unlock, so i had to pay for programming because my car won't turn on ..
Hmmm... unfortunately, there's a recurring theme that this either works perfectly (which seems to be the vast majority of times) or it stalls out at the cycle/finish process and darned if I know why. Where did you get the new key? Any chance all the key slots in the immobilizer are already taken?
@@DIYDaveOK I'm unsure as to where the key was gotten but ignition works. I tried doing the on off cycle twice incase the list of paired keys was full same result, no lock cycle to confirm it's ready to adda new remote. (Not sure what you meant by immobilizer)
The immobilizer is the computer component that records and authorizes keys. Typically, most Toyotas allow for up to (I think) five total programmed keys; the two issues by the factory and then up to three additional ones. There is the possibility that other remotes have been programmed and all slots are filled. I don't think the AP200 supports selective deletion of individual keys. If you're not sure where the extra key originated, you might consider getting one from a good source like CarAndTruckRemotes.com (not a sponsor).
Hi Dave, in your instructions; it is bestt if you only turn off and on ONCE. Twice will remove any other remotes that were installed, while one will allow you to keep existing remotes
Very informative! I would like to ask sir the mhz of corolla 2008-2011, it is the model before yours, are they the same mhz? Mine wasn't working when it got chipped by the locksmith to fit it in another fob, planning to order thru online shopping.
Now that one I just don't know. I know Toyota changed remote key systems over four or five generations so I suspect it is reasonable to assume frequencies changed, but I don't know that for a fact. You could keep the same frequencies but encode different information that makes the two systems mutually exclusive.
Where can I find instructions to do the same for a 2014 Camry SE? I purchased a blank FOB (type G). Once that's working, I'll move on to the next steps: getting the key cut and attempting the AUTEL 200 (from your other video) for getting the key to start the vehicle.
Each generation's instructions seem to vary just a bit from prior and later versions. I don't have instructions handy for a '14 Camry, but the programming steps in the Autel should match up to that vehicle. Thanks for watching!
Hey dave, thank you for the video! I successfully programmed two key fobs for my car, but the only problem I have is that after performing the remote programming, my key fob only locks the door, but does not unlock or open the trunk. I don't think is the key fob because it's new new, so I'm not sure what it could be.
You know, you're the second or third commenter in the last few days (weeks) that had had a problem with the second part of the programming. Do you have another key that does, in fact, unlock the trunk remotely? (Purely making sure we're not overlooking a problem with the lock actuator). I'm wondering if something has changed in the way the key gets written into the IMMO database that prevents the second part of the programming from working. I'm honestly not sure what's going on. I wish I had a better answer for you.
Hey DIY Dave, So I have 2 fobs when I program 1 the other 1 disables and vice verse, how do i get them both to work or program both of them? Thanks Greg
Hmmm...sounds to me like you may have the maximum number of fobs programmed to the car, and when you program the last one the previous one gets displaced. That's my first guess at least!
Hey Dave, i have a 2010 corolla and found a used key fob from a different corolla between the years of 09-13 but it’s cut different then the original. if the key is already cut what will happen when i reprogram the used key. will it then be the key that starts the vehicle and my old key will only be used to lock the doors manually ? Thanks.
if the physical key is cut differently I don't know that it will engage the immobilizer mechanically to allow it to start. The used/old reprogrammed key *should* still be able to remote unlock and open the trunk.
If you check out the key programming video, you can see how I used the AP200 to program an ignition key. There's a link in the video for it. Thanks for watching!!
Good video Dave. I'm wondering if you have any tips or ideas on how to program to lock and unlock my wife. Sometimes she locks up and nothing I try seems to help at all.
LOL I don't think I could help you there, but if I could figure THAT out for husbands everywhere, that would be one viral video!!! 😆😆😂. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I have a 2013 corolla and just recently i lost the keyless entry key, but still have the dealership spare. Can i use the dealership spare to program a new fob?
Hi Dave, i got my fob lock & unlock setting working. but the immobiliser not learning yet. can u kindly advise if i need to redo again? or is there a special way to sync with immobiliser? Thank u
Hey Dave! Good video. I’m trying these steps on my 2013 Corolla and get to the last steps. The locks cycle “lock/unlock”, but when I press the remote to test, it cycles “lock/unlock/lock/unlock”, and ends up not working. I’ve tried multiple times and each time end with the same result. Any suggestions??
Hmmm...that's strange.. The instances when I've had issues it usually boils down to timing, eg I waited too long (or tried the next step too soon). The steps can be *VERY* finicky!!! Thanks for watching. Give it another try and let me know how it goes.
Hi Cool! Unfortunately, the steps don't always apply across the board. As the software for each car changes over time and across models, the steps change as well. Thanks for watching!
Is there any way to turn off the wireless remote to a 2018 Toyota Corollahas somebody has gained access to the remote code and locks and unlocks it randomly
Wow, Bruno, that's a bad situation to say the least! What I think you might have to explore is the possibility of having ALL the remote keyless fobs erased from your vehicle's computer memory and having new keys programmed. Ordinarily, this requires access to the OEM's systems to have a new internal "master key" created for your vehicle, and usually that kind of access is limited to only certified locksmiths (or, of course, dealerships). There are some third-party tools that can accomplish this as well, but I have no personal experience with *complete key erasure* and ground-up reprogramming. Exercise caution and good luck! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I am going to replace the door control receiver on my friends 2011 Camry and hope this works to reprogram her FOB's. However I don't see your steps that you said would be listed below the video. Thanks in advance.
Hi Buddie, thanks for watching. Here is a link to the steps from CarAndTruckRemotes.com: blog.carandtruckremotes.com/2015/11/05/2009-2010-2011-2012-and-2013-toyota-corolla-free-programming-instructions-for-remote-head-key-keyless-entry-remote-fob-alarm/
Try to do these steps before you replace the door control receiver. Got one from the junkyard for a 2010 corolla, installed it, programmed it and it worked. Put the old one in programmed it and old one worked too. Parts was 13 bucks so not that expensive. Have a back up receiver now.
For my own (and others) reference: 1. Open drivers side door 2. Insert and remove original key into ignition twice 3. Close and open driver's door twice 4. Insert and remove good key into ignition once 5. Close and open driver's door twice again 6. Put key into ignition 7. Close drivers door 8. Turn key from off to on to off 1 time 9. remove key, locks should cycle 10. Hold the lock and unlock button for 3 seconds on the new key
It was working for me, but the 2nd key wasn’t responding. The battery might be dead cause it hasn’t been used at all. Thank you for the video though, it was very helpful.
I think you need an original, working key to program additional keys. The ECU stores all the key information internally, and assumes a new key can be programmed if a known-good key is presented. If your only good key has failed, even with a new battery, you *might* have to use an OEM tool (like Techstream for Toyota) to rewrite/regenerate all the secret key information and program a new master key. There are some subtleties there I have not checked into myself, so be very careful when dealing with the car's key memory. If you completely erase all keys, you could be left with an unstartable car, requiring a programming tool that typically (well, supposedly) only certified locksmiths have, and in some cases require payment of a fee to the OEM to have a new "master" key code written to the computer. The AP200 is designed, I believe, to have one good key in hand. Thanks for watching!
DIY Dave thanks for the video man! I’m having the same problem. My original car key stopped working and I got the battery replaced and it still doesn’t work. It flashes red when your press the button but doesn’t unlock/lock the car. Toyota said something about getting a new chip and getting it programmed for like $600 bucks! Can you help me with something I can do. Money is kinda tight right now and I’m really trying to help my dad. Thank you
For some reason when I do these exact steps perfectly, I’m still unable to get the car to give the “success lock”. Not sure if that means there’s an underlying issue or what.
Hmmm it's hard to say, unfortunately. Same year/make, etc? If the computer is already filled with the codes for other fobs, that might be one explanation.
Hmmm... Not quite sure on that, Joy. My first thought (well, guess) is that perhaps you're not holding the button long enough. Let me do a little thinking and see if I can come up with a better idea.
Im stuck in program mode. After i cycle on and off in the ignition the locks cycle. I press and gold lock and unlock and the locks cycle again. I press any button the locks continue to cycle. If i open door or enter ignition program mode ends and the key doesnt sync
That's really strange; I'm wondering if maybe there is some sightly different step required on your particular vehicle. I wish I had better information for you! ☹️ That's for watching!
Hey Dave Ive done this several times because my key deprogrammed and doesnt work anymore, battery seems fine and the light on my key fob turns on but doesnt respond. When i enter program mode and hold the buttons instead of cycling once it cycles twice and it wont program. Key is the original
Now that *may* be a problem. Normally, you use one original/existing key to the process to more or less "authenticate" you as someone legitimately trying to add a key. But if this is an original key that no longer works, it makes me wonder if something more fundamental is at hand; keys don't normally spontaneously self-delete. It would almost seem like some prior key programming was done that affected the key database in the immobilizer, or (more drastically) perhaps at some point the car's ECU has been changed out without keys being transferred? You might be able to re-add that key by using a *different* working key first. Wish I could offer more specific help!!
Are you reprograming this key because a new battery was put it?...I just put in new CR2025 battery and my key still not working so I am going to try reprogram.
Places like Home Depot and Ace Hardware typically won't cut keys you don't buy there with their "system." You'll need to go to a private local locksmith, at least that's my experience.
How can we unlock just the drivers door 1st on 1st click. Then all 3 other door on 2nd click. For safety reasons of a lone driver running to car and a chaser trying to beat them to the car on passenger side. Is their a way to program the key to open only the drivers side 1st on 1st click? If i cant have the 2nd click to opem passengers sides. I hopeing at least i can get to drivers side and just unlock them from inside car. I'm talking women getting off work heading to car and a stranger approaching her from the otherside as she is walking to her car alone at night. She'd want just the driver side to open to get in lock her side, start it and go. Thank you i appreciate your knowledge sir.
That kind of unlock customization isn't controlled by the key fob; it would be something that a system called the Body Control Module would have to be programmed to do. Now on the other Toyota products I own, the unlock behavior you describe is the default, so I'm surprised you are experiencing different behavior.
Nothing was taken out or changed, if you see a cut it was unintentional. I did this video about five years ago so I can only assume it was a cut for a couple of seconds of dead/pointless activity. No secret magic or deception.
