Thx, nice job bud . But forgot to tell everyone to open brake fluid Reservoir before squeezing the pistons back in on the calipers. Use special slide pin grease. Silcone stuff😊.
@@garyandstacy if the reservoir wasnt overfilled it wont spill out, normally itll push right past the cap anyway. I always use brake specific grease but good idea to specify lol. Glad you enjoyed the video
Good video thank you. , just a reminder. Tork on çaliper bracket bolts is 210 ft lbs. Need a pipe on the end of the ratchet & lots of strength. This truck is a real work truck not a half ton
Long handle 1/2" ratchet and some muscle will get them there, or close enough. I normally only bring to torque wrench our for engine stuff or lug nuts. For someone who doesnt turn wrench everyday it is a good idea to torque those bolts to spec. Thanks for the tip!
Glad i could help. Id reccomend replacing the rotors as well or have a shop refinsh your old ones on a lathe if you dont want an uneven pad wear or noises.
I replaced all 4 rotors and pads on my 2015.5. I use power stop parts and for some reason when I leave my house after the truck has been sitting they made this loud ass groaning noise. Not sure what it is but pads and rotors look new still. Any ideas? Wheels seem to roll good.
Have you ever experienced the common pad rattle on these trucks? I replaced my front pads & rotors and while everything works great, the pads seem just loose enough in the caliper brackets that they rattle when I’m driving down a bumpy street.
Are you postive the noise is coming from the brake pads? When i hear of a noise coming from bumps my though goes towards steering/suspension parts. Most common rattle from bumps would be sway bar end links or ball joints for these trucks. All it takes is a small amount of play for these to make a lot of noise. For ball joints you have to place the jack under the lower control arm and lift it just enough to get a pry bar under the tire. Lift up on the tire and watch the balljoint.
@@TheRollingTimes Positive- it’s a common problem on these trucks. Drag the brakes lightly, and it goes away. It’s the pads loosening up in the caliper bracket.
Currently trying to do brakes on my 15 duramax and I cannot get the allen head caliper bolts loose to save my life on the rear brakes. I need to get them apart to grease pins since one pad was down to metal and the other was fine. Any suggestions to get it out?
Are both those slide pins suppose to move freely? I noticed one looks like it has a rubber seal on it an the other doesn't.i been having the driver side front brake lock up on me. today i took everything apart,cleaned and greased.but im still having the same issues after putting all back together
Both slide pins shluld move in and out freely. If the brackets are rusty inside the slide pin holes I generally find a drill bit same diameter as the slide pin. Ream out the bracket with some pb blast or wd40. Clean good with parts cleaner and the lube with brake grease. If you are still having issues, it is common for teh brake hoses to fail internally and cause calipers to not fully release. The caliper piston can get stuck too. Back in the day we used to rebuild the calipers but now its easier just to by a reman.
Hey y'all. I replaced my front pads yesterday, all went well, except for 1 thing. I can not figure out how to put those little rubber seals back in, the ones that cover the heads of the caliper bolts. They come off real easy, just like you showed. But I tried every way I could think of to put them back on. Tried using my fingers, a screwdriver, a little 90 degree angled pick. Always seems to just pop right back out. I covered the openings with duct tape for now, but that won't work very long. Any helpful ideas would be appreciated! Thanks.
If you are refering to the dust boots on the slide pins, you do need them. Without them youll lose all the grease on the slide pins and the caliper will not move and could lock up or wear the brakes excessively. These Chevys the boots are a real bugger to get back in to place but they will go back in. You just have to work them around. A little wd40 may soften them up. Dont be discouraged i deal with them almost everyday and i still struggle with them sometimes.
@@TheRollingTimes Yes, I had no trouble with the boots. It is the little flat rubber disk seals that cover the heads of the pins. They are about the size and shape of a nickel.
@@danm400 i hate those. just try and squeeze them together and push them in and work them back and forth until they are seated correctly. Dumb design but you want to have them back in there. Try using a smaller allen or something that wont puncture them to push the center in deeper and they should seat.
Hey so just did my brakes. I got the rubber seals back in by spraying a quick spray of garage door lube at the opening seating rim, then sprayed enough on the rubber seal till it was slippery, and then pushed it into place. Had a little bit of a high spot at one area on the perimeter to be seated, used a very small flat tip screwdriver to get in front of the lip and just poked it hard enough to seat it. Then used my finger tips to tap on it a half dozen times to help push it into shape. Bet I did not have more than 2 minutes on each of the seals. A light solution of dish soap would probably do the same, but then thats a wee bit of water behind the seal, probably no big foul though.
Thanks Guys for the tips on the seals. I did figure out 2 things for my situation: First, it was really cold out when I did my pads, so the seals were very stiff. (And of course they were 7 years old). Got a warm day and they popped right into place, the advice on using a small Allen wrench to press right in the center of the seal was genius! It stretches the circular piece evenly. And #2, I found out I could get a Caliper Bolt seal kit at O'Reilly for just a few dollars, it included fresh new pin boots and the flat seals that I had struggled with. They were very soft & flexible, and went into place easily with just a push of my finger tip.
