@@stephenoconnor1459 Check out the video linked in the closing screen. I got Gerrard a pro plasterer in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ksc2mghC-4c.html
would love to see a modern update on this subject with the new standards taken into account and, for example, the use of low expansion foam to stick the insulation panels to the wall...!!
Charlie, tidy quality job. I've been plastering 40 years and I'd score you 9/10. Just a few comments, too much adhesive. Dabs only need to be 600 centres edge and middle of the board, dabs were too flat and should pretrude from wall 75-100 mm and board from window reveal out toward corner of the room All these tips will use less materials but all in all you have done a great job 👍
Does this mean start at each window reveal on the face wall not the actual into the window reveal? So board from edge of window towards the corners then fill in the gaps between the board under and above the window?
Remarkable that adding insulation to a property with no insulation requires Building Regs to approve it meets their spec. Does it meet their spec with no insulation? Jobs for the boys.
Nice job Charl, I would never have known job like this had so many pitfalls for a nightmare outcome. Nicely explained, great that you listed all tools necessary. Really impressive, really interesting. Well done!
Great video with lots of informative information and links. Love it. Is it a necessity to remove the gypsum-based plaster from the walls to install the boards or can they go straight on top without any issues?
I love your videos Charlie. It’s been 3 years since you did this. Have you experienced any condensation issues or signs of condensation forming behind the insulation? I’m keen to do this at my house (already done one room) but my head is spinning with all the conflicting advice around the condensation risks and lack of breathability. This stuff is BBA approved for this application but there are so many experts warning against doing it at all or recommending alternative, breathable panels combined with lime plaster to maintain the breathability of the building. Interested to know your thoughts/experience on this
I’m having the same conundrum, George! Victorian building so 9” solid walls. We had some damp on one wall already but a specialist said it was mainly due to the incorrect mortar used when the pointing was re done some years ago. Replaced with a proper lime mortar we haven’t had many issues. But if I insulate with this method, am I adding to moisture/breath ability issues?
@@thewalkingsketchbookmy house has solid brick walls and I insulated the walls internally 40 years ago. There was not much information available. Some was very wrong. I was concerned about condensation in hidden away spaces.I had a choice of polystyrene sheet or fibreglass/ mineral wool. I used the latter as it was much cheaper. I made a frame of 50 x75 mm tanalised timber, screwed to the walls and filled with insulation. Then a polythene vapour barrier and then plasterboard. Keep the vapour barrier intact around power sockets was awkward. I’m still in the house and have had no issues. I have one last wall to insulate, the bathroom. It’s only a few m2. No external render. But it’s sheltered and I might bond directly to the wall. Still in two minds about it. 24:19
@@thewalkingsketchbookthink of it like this , your house needs to breathe hence the lime mortar outside and the same applies to the inside with regards to lime plaster and limewash/ breathable clay paint , this method will keep humidity controlled in your property and won't end up spoiling any brickwork because of a build up moisture 👍
Nice video, well explained and set out. Anything is possible with research, the right tools , and time. I feel D.I.Y gets better with trial and error, practice brings confidence to every job after the very first. What ever that might be. Thanks to guys like you , people can see its possible to have a go. Cheers 👍🏽
Great video Charlie. How did you get the radiator remounted? Did you have to extend the pipes or have you come up with some other way of doing it? Thinking of doing the same and trying to avoid having to drain down the system.
I've spend many hours rebuilding studs in my 200 year old house to get things level, this looks like a much preferred option. Not a single wall in my house is square and it's a right pain in the arse doing it 'properly'
I've just done my bedroom wall the stud method, and my bathroom before that. It was more of a pain but I thought I'd do a video on it, and also, with that extra layer I've more than complied with building regs in terms of the u values.
Just a note, only use KNAUF bonding compound on foil backed insulation board k118 otherwise you are taking a big risk. There's no point in pva-ing the back of the boards then, knauf bags are readily available from all drywall merchants. When taking delivery of your boards lay them down as flat as you can get them especially if its going to be days before they get used to avoid them bowing.
@LB-gr5se I assume your asking why use knauf bonding compound specifically on the knauf foil backed k118. If you use BG bonding compound instead,you will certainly run the risk of the board coming away from the dabs once they had set as it is not designed to stick to foil. Where as knauf adhesive you will have no such problems. On normal wall board, BG,Knauf or Siniat bonding are all pretty much the same ,though I personally prefer BG bonding. With Knauf ,you have to pay a little bit more attention when mixing because it doesn't like being overmixed by drill and tends to thicken up quickly, which you don't necessarily want if you have a large mix to do. Hope that answers your question
I worked for a double glazing and conservatory company a few years ago. We would always use kingspan as insulation. I remember it had a fishy smell when you cut it lol.
Charlie, do you have a video on applying insulating wallpapers (like WallRock or similar)? What is your view on how useful and effective they are? Installing insulated plasterboard is not feasible in our rooms because of door and window frame sizes and shallow depths.
Coming to this one quite late. Another really high quality video - great explanations. One thing though, these boards are phenomenally expensive now. In my 100 year old semi, it’d cost approximately £1000 for the materials to do less than 2 of my first floor rooms (external walls only, 50mm board). Have any competing products been released since this video was first uploaded?
Before you carry out any work, make sure the house does not contain any asbestos. Also old houses with plaster walls would highly likely have no vapour barrier under the plaster to stop moist air from saturating the insulation. Back then, plaster walls were designed to allow the free exchange of air and moisture. If you're not sure if the plaster has been replaced with a vapour barrier or any insulation, remove a small area and check. You may just need foam or wool insulation and a vapour barrier underneath the plasterboards. I can highly recommend Tekwarm EPS HP, not sure if it's available where you live though.
Sadly this is just the way of the world now. Building material costs are significantly higher than they were in 2019 when Charlie did this video. It’s been a painful three years for us DIYers !
Had a mate that retro insulated 5 houses like this except he used PU foam adhesive to adhere it to the wall. And mechanic fixings afterwards. PU adhesive is less likely to draw water through the wall. But you can’t use it to plumb the wall. Great if your walls are fairly flat and plumb to start off with.
That pu foam has a good name because when i smells it I always say PU lol Seriously though if you have any damp issues that pu foam does eventually degrade, in my experience. Maybe not as fast as some silicone or other similar adhesives tend to though. Silicone is a lot easier to clean up though
What an excellent video really. Brilliant information very well made, you cleared up a lot of confusion for me. I'm concerned about condensation on the back of the board though. It seems people prefer to mechanically fix for this reason. I wonder if anyone has anymore information for this.... personally I think the adhesives these days are incredible.
Thanks Adam. Yes, I mechanically fixed the last room I did and going forward I think this is a preferable option. You're right to be concerned about condensation, particularly where you're cutting through the board for the electrical back boxes. You want to aspire to creating an impregnable vapour barrier and continuous insulation to eliminate any cold bridging - which is damn hard in reality. In the bedroom I've just done, I battened the wall with 2x1 tanelised, dpc between the batten and wall where it touches - as the wall isn't level there was a nice gap behind. Then I infilled with 1 inch Ecotherm, foil taped over the joins, and then mechanically fixed the Kingspan to the front. That way, the electrical boxes only penetrate through the front insulation (I foil taped a piece of 12mm ply to the back of the Kingspan at that point to screw the back box to), and there's no cold bridging. Oh and I used that expanding foam tape you might have seen in that vid, underneath the Kingspan. It's breathable but eliminates any cold bridging.
Use a paint roller and tray to apply the PVA, load it up, start from the bottom and roll up, keeping a small wave of PVA between the roller and the wall, touch up with brush if necessary
Shouldn’t the board be raised a distance from the floor? I always thought this had to be done to prevent any water from sucking up into the plasterboard.
Great video Charlie, it is something I really want to do and something I have researched a ton about, reading all the technical data etc but still feel there is not enough info out there. However this is by far the best video i have seen. I would love to pick your brain as you too appear to have done a ton of research. The main areas I have concerns with is the vapour barrier and access for wires without cutting or making holes in the insulation. So my thinking is to press the insulation against the wall (mines rendered and is sound), tape all the joins and foam/tape/seal all the edges. Then put 25x50mm (standard roofing type) battens against the insulation, 25mm thick and screw the battens through the insulation and into the wall. Then plasterboard (normals fine but i would choose foil backed) to the battens and skim. This way seems to allow for the best vapour barrier you can achieve and u would have a void for cables without compromising the insulation/vb, and you could hang selves, pictures etc to the wall as you would any plasterboard wall without messing with the insulation and vb, and from what I can tell buying insulation and plasterboard separately would be cheaper also. (Window reveals would have to be dealt with differently) Can you see any downsides to this approach other than losing a few mm due to battens being a bit thicker than dot&dab. You input would be very much appreciated. All the best
Could those wooden planks be a possible mold risk when they are trapped between the insulation and brick wall as they will absorb moisture but won't be able to dry properly?
Thanks mate! A lot of people split them up into a series but I think where possible it's best to keep it as one. That way you're not jumping around trying to find the next video!
That's very interesting! Thank you for your video. Have you noticed any issues with condensation between the wall and the insulation? Would it even be possible to see if it happened?
I think you do have to be really careful - particularly around plug sockets, where each sheet butts up and corners and windows. Better to use the expanding foam glue rather than plasterboard adhesive as this is a much better insulator. I haven't had any problems in this room but we do manage humidity quite carefully. In the last room I did - our bedroom - I battened the wall, infilled between the battens with 1 inch PIR, foil taped over the battens then screwed the insulated plasterboard to the battens. That way you have no cold bridging around sockets etc as there's insulation behind them. I glued a 12mm board of ply into the back of the insulated plasterboard to screw the socket back box to.
I've learned so much from this. Was nearly about to have insulated plasterboard put up on all four walls without being aware of building regulations. Life saver, thank you!
You're welcome. With insulating internally like this, you need to pay close attention to cold bridging points (breaks in the insulation). Cutting through the board for plug sockets, where each sheet butts up to the next and around windows are the big culprits. Expanding foam adhesive is one answer rather than dot and dab adhesive but you have to choose an expanding foam that's compatible with the Plasterboard. It's well worth doing this but you have to get it right to prevent moisture from the house getting between the boards. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte Thank you. Any recommendations on good expanding foam adhesive? I'll be using the Knauf Thermal Laminate and the Knauf Soundshield plus plasterboards.
@@CharlieDIYte Have you seen the gyproc insulated plasterboard? They do their own sealant for a mastic gun the same as your dot and dab approach, goes straight onto existing wall. Wondered about doing the two walls either side of the chimney breast as they're external and get really cold.
This is not Dot & Dab. This is Dab only. The Dots are small squares of plasterboard (typically 8x8) attached to the wall with adhesive to create a level surface prior to installing your full boards. You then mechanically fix your boards to the Dots with Phosphorous screws to prevent discolouration. Just using Dabs (blobs of adhesive) without the Dots exposes the full boards to flexing out of shape, risking an uneven wall surface.
Our 1875 built terrace suffers terribly with condensation on the solid brick external walls in the winter. They're absolutely freezing!! I'm unsure if there is any moisture penetration now. There used to be, but since we had the guttering fixed it's gone away. Downstairs we do have a small area which is below ground (we're on a slope). What am I better off going for? Assuming battens rather than dot and dab? I just need to raise the temp of the bloody walls! I'm assumung that the boards with foil backing are the ones designed to combat condensation in the void? Would I be better off hacking back to brick and adding pva beforehand?
Fantastic video, thabks for taking the time to record, edit and share. I'm going to tackle my front porch which is only a single skin of brick as it's the cold spot of the house and I was looking for recommendations for an insulated and moisture-proof board and this came up right away. I'll probably go with the batten fitting solution as I doubt it has anything in the way of moisure prevention currently. Thanks again.
Good idea. The thing to remember when you do this is cold bridging, cold bridging, cold bridging. This is the biggest problem when insulating from inside. A lot of care needs to be taken with window reveals corners and plug socket boxes - which ideally need insulating behind to prevent cold spots and moisture ingress. Good luck 👍
Why do I have to fully comply with building control regulations ? If I'm working on my own property, and the job is right for me ? We used to say "an Englishman's home is his castle". If any council bureaucrats come near my house, I'll be tipping boiling oil through the murder whole behind my portcullis.
Charlie brilliant video just what i needed as am going to do my small bedroom after having a steel girder fitted to extend kitchen dinner below so have ripped out old dob and dab plasterboard and will now fit the 50mm kingspan as the dobs on old ones were nearly 2" thick.!!
BIG question: how to fix heavy stuff to these sorts of walls without prior knowledge (such that you might put studs up to the back of the PB where you will need it ... Current trial method in my house for radiator fixing .. :120mm frame fixings combined with shorter fixing plugs down the middles of cut-to-flush lengths of 15mm copper pipe between the (old, crumbly) brick and the front face of the PB, against which the load can bear... However I haven't yet filled the rad with water ...
Hi Charlie, Thanks for this. Very helpful. Before applying the plasterboard - would you ever suggest plastering the stone wall first to increase insulation? Perhaps Lime Plaster if it’s a damp wall so the stone can breath?
Get a spade bit for the SDS hammer !! - less damage, faster and more consistent. Do bear in mind that whilst your walls are dry at the moment, significant moisture removal could have been taking place from the internal surface that will now be trapped behind the foil on the Kingspan. If "wicking" of moisture is taking place from another area, it cannot now escape as it is sealed both from outside and inside.
Awesome job mate! I wish I could do that here but my walls tend to be rather damp in this Old House and I don't trust the roof. It started to leaks in a few spots again, even after having all the clay tiles replaced a few months ago. I was able to get on the roof and sealed the leak spots but I'm not sure how long that will last. I don't mind running the heater in the winter more. I'll probably just stick to slapping some anti-mold paint up on these old walls and see if that does anything for me. Cheers!
Your video editing skills alone are fantastic !!!!! As for the informative video - A* In fact AAA* - brilliant stuff. Are you related to Gordon Ramsey ?????
Another brilliant video, thanks Charlie. The way you installed your insulation was so much more thorough than our builders! Re solid walls and dot & dab v mechanical fixing: On an early Victorian 4 storey terraced house, we were advised by Kingspan to mechanically fix on the 2nd floor where the walls are thinner and there was a risk of water penetration but I wanted to let others know that we got away with dot and dab on the 1st, ground and basement. The basement has no soil against it and the walls and floor were damp proofed with a Newton membrane. In addition, the walls get thicker as you go down the house so Kingspan calculated from our dims that they would not suffer from water ingress. We also observed the walls over a couple of years and knew that there was no damp issue. So it is always worth checking with the very helpful technical team at Kingspan.
For a 62.5mm thickness (ie 50mm foam) you're looking at about 29kg per sheet. They were heavy! I had to carry each one all the way down from my garage and then at an angle up the staircase!!
This isn't dot and dab this is just..... dab, plumed vertical horizontal dots on the wall, leave to set with a square piece of plasterboard set into it, string line off these then fill in the gaps with the adhesive, you can use plasterboard to set or what we use nowadays is those green white black blue spacers you get for when we fit glazed windows (Packers), now you have a wall that got many dots over it which are all plum and in line, DAB the wall you put the plasterboard up press against the dots now it's plum and straight, hence why it's called DOT and DAB
Great video. How do you make the judgment on damp to decide between batton or adhesive? Old houses that you might want to insulate rarely have bone dry walls and getting the opinions of dpc professionals can often lead to further confusion, ambiguity and diagnosis to product or service. If there is actually any degree of damp what's actually going on behind the board between the battons?
Andrew there's no right answer on this, except to say if you have damp in the wall coming in from outside you shouldn't insulate it until you've removed the source. That said it becomes more complicated because most internal insulation isn't done properly in that the vapour barrier is either non existent or, as I have to confess, I did, you cut through it to install the back boxes. Any cold bridge like this is a potential source of interstitial condensation. On our bedroom which I did a year ago I battened the wall with 2x1 tanelised, putting DPC behind the battens where they touch the wall. I then infilled the battens with 25mm Ecotherm sheet insulation. The walls are uneven so there was a bit of a gap behind the battens in places where i had to pack them out. I then foil taped the battens and finally screwed the Kingspan insulated plasterboard to the battens. That way it didn't matter that I cut through the insulation for the electrical boxes as there was insulation behind. I put a piece of ply at the back of the back box, again foil taped from behind to give me something to screw it. That's just about the best way to insulate a wall in my opinion. However you'll always get the angry restoration lobby saying you're creating a mini Grenfell that can't breathe, whilst the green lobby will salute you for cutting greenhouse emissions 🤷
@@elltell8644 followed by damp and mould in the months to come. Needs a proper thermal break. the improved insulation on the rest of the walls increases problems in the remaining cold areas.
@@alexclifford8961 with window profiles of 30 - 40mm there is little else that can be used other than 12.5mm foil back boards. how they are fixed is down to the operative.
It's a fair point - I found myself applying a lot more adhesive dabs than you need to, and so should probably have covered the whole of the back of the board with bonding! I think the bonding agent is an added precaution really, and obviously if you use the Knauf adhesive you wouldn't need it. Also, as a pro plasterer has commented on this feed, you should think of the adhesive primarily as a packer to secure the boards in the right position. The mechanical fixings are what secures it comprehensively to the wall.
Really really excellent video lots of detail and u don't have an asome American accent just brilliant have a whole house to do built 1937 mass concrete walls
Love the video, you make it look so easy. I have used insulated plasterboard in my garage conversion but found that the plasterboard came away from the foam and had to use lots of plasterboard screws to keep them firmly in place
Useful video Charlie thanks for posting. You do make it look easy! I imagine some complexities not mentioned, such as boarding around the window and needing to extend window sills and what about electrical wiring, the cables would need to be long enough to feed a patress that was now further from it's original location and would need to be fixed to whatever the new insulation has been fixed to. No expert here so maybe i'm overthinking it.
You're right. There are lots of complications. Around reveals the insulation needs to be continuous and socket boxes are an issue both in terms of cable length - I guess you could extend with wago's - but also the cut out being a potential cold bridge as is the break in vapour barrier between each sheet. I'm currently working on a breathable internal wall insulation in my kitchen. If you can hang off for a month or so on your project, there should be a video. 👊
Hi Charlie, I’ve only just seen this video even though it’s almost a year old. I insulated the external walls in two bedrooms of my house the difference it makes is amazing. In one of the rooms I hacked of the plaster as it was very loose, but then I put a tight coat of sand and cement to get rid of some of the bows and bellies in the wall. Around the windows I framed them with 2x2 batterns. Before putting the boards up around I cut away the insulation only. When you put the board up around the window you can screw the edges around the window. Around the window you now have a reveal which you stick standard plaster board to using screws with a few dabs of adhesive. I’m about to move on to my bathroom. I just concerned about the condensation, and of course the tiles on that wall. Any advice
@@satwinderdhariwal I don’t think so. Around the window is framed with two by two and inside that it is insulated. I realise you will loose some heat but it is a vast improvement, which is what you want at the end of the day.
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this video and the one about relative humidity. I'm planning to purchase a property in Central Portugal where the older homes are notorious for being cold and humid during the winter. I now have a general understanding of how to tackle those issues.
@@robertsmart7484 Hi, absolutely but in certain circumstances/properties the cost may be acceptable as it's the only method / cost effective solution etc but yes, it's not cheap.
I'm a plasterer and I'd like to say very nicely done make sure you use a secondary fixing the adhesive is more like a packer I like to use 6 fixings more like a 6 on a dice than the way the manufacturer recommend but top job I've had lads working for me with years of experience that turn out worse boarding than that well done
Thanks so much Robert - I've got to say I was a bit nervous about posting this one but felt strangely compelled to do so - but comments from professionals like yourself are massively appreciated! Out of interest do you use the cork screw style mechanical (secondary) fixings I mentioned, or something else?
@@CharlieDIYte I've tried many different types of fixing and to be honest I've never really been happy with any of them the insulation fixings are great because there all plastic but there about 5mm so skimming the wall becomes a pain I've settled on using a tile backer board washer with a zinc plated concrete fixing I have to make the hole in the middle of the washer bigger to let the screw head sit flat but it's the best I can come up with. most other options have either a small head so not really holding the board tight or othersare too thick to skim over
@@robandamyp Agreed. I thought about frame fixings (or the excellent steel core Corefix), rebated into the surface with a flat wood bit but being plastic they're not fire regs compliant.
Got all this on the inside of my house on the external walls... just dabbed on.... I know it is meant to have mechanical fixings in an ideal world but it was done before I had the house and I’m not tearing it all off now haha. No problems as such just a few annoying movement cracks on the joints even with scrim tape on. So when going though the rooms decorating I’ve drilled small holes on the joints back to the brick and wet in the hole with diluted pva then foam filled to effectively stitch the crack. The stuff is as warm as toast in the winter and the heat wave last year nearly killed me inside haha!
Thanks for the video, very interesting. I have to disagree with you on the "just doing double glazing isn't worth it". Obvs, many old houses are unique but I have to ask if you actually did any heat loss calcs and have some figures to back your statement up? If so, please share them with us because in my experience simply replacing old single (especially sash) windows with a modern double-glazed (tho I'd argue you might as well triple-glaze these days as the extra thermal performance is well worth the extra cost) *simply from the perspective of draft reduction alone* is *way* more significant than 50mm of insulation on the walls. If you have a large amount of glazing and/or live in a windy location (where the drafts - and therefore heat-losses - are far worse due to air pressure on one side of the building) then this is even more relevant. Whilst I'm at it, if you do do the calcs, compare the heat loss from the fabric of the building to heat losses due to the 'recommended' air changes... and you will get a big surprise.
😂😂😂😂😂😂 WTF are you doing fella,!, ABSOLUTELY no need to remove the old plaster 😂😂😂,! You took more time removing that old crap,,than fixing your boards,😂😂 Just drill through your insulated plasterboard AND the old plaster and (mechanically fix)using Fischer POLYPROPYLENE fixings to brickwork ,,12 fixings to each board,, Before you all start jumping up and down 😤I have been using this method for 28 years,!, my company has renovated more than 300 properties , I in fact still own 147 of these houses,as a private landlord,, PS,, very little point in applying pva directly to substrate that appears to contain old lime plaster,, PPS, I’m 73 years old started plastering at 14 I sincerely hope this has been of use to someone,👍🇬🇧
Three reasons 1) the plaster below was live and I didn't want to just hide it behind the new board (a botch in my opinion); 2) the walls weren't true - years of badly applied irregular plaster - so mechanical fixings wouldn't help with this; and 3) the wife is annoyed enough that I'm reducing the size of the rooms with this insulation so I was wanting to keep this to a minimum. I hear what you say that your approach is a lot less hassle though. Are the polypropylene fixings fire regs compliant? I thought they had to be metal.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing. I had insulation boards put on two walls in my kitchen and on one wall in my bathroom by the Housing Association I am under several years ago. To my surprise they put the boards over plastered walls. Since then, I have encounter problems with mildew around the top and edges of the boards and think part of the problem might be that they haven't been sealed correctly.
Yes that'll be because of cold bridging. Take a look at this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TIDb-pdOnXM.html It's important you have some ventilation in your place during the day (windows open if you can) just to let out the huge amount of moisture we generate daily
Hi Charlie, great video thanks. Just a quick question...... When you mark the walls and ceiling so you can align the plasterboard panels, do you have to take into account the depth the adhesive will bring the board out by? Hope that makes sense👍
Yes, you want the lines to be a finished depth guide. Otherwise you won't see them because the adhesive will bring the boards forward of the line you've marked.
Sometimes this thick stuff is not practical. I’ve used considerably thinner insulation board than this and it’s been very effective. Polystyrene backed and dabbed on, no problems at all.
It isnt a good idea to insulate from interor of the house... exterior is much better - u save the materials before destruction via water x freeze. once u insulate inside part - u shift zero ceslcius into the brick (water start to change into ice - expands and destroys the material, u are never able to restrict all af vapore to come inside the material). ... if u insulate exterior part of the wall... proper thickness of insulation will have zero celsius in itself...... PVA is supposed to be used , once u clean the wall properly :) it doesnt take such a lot of a time and effort :)
external insulation need be water resist, not suck water newer, only closed cell foam can use external insulation, interior can use all other, but not bathroom and water area rooms.or rooms were have sometime steam.
As heating or old houses is getting more expensive insulation has to be the way forward the best way to look at it is as an investment spend your money well people 😈👌
Charlie can you tell me your cottage is old but have they used a lime mortar/plaster? How easy was it to actually board over and how much did the boards actually eat into the room space? Once you get to existing windows how did you go about the space of the windowsill ?
Hi there. The internal render was put on in the 70's. Yes it was pretty easy once I'd had a bit of practice (remember, this is my third room). My wife was keen that we didn't reduce the rooms too significantly so we went for the 50mm insulation, 62mm in total. To be honest, once the boards are in place you totally forget what the room was like before so it doesn't feel any smaller. The way you should do the window reveals is described at 23.23mins in the video. How much insulation you use though will obviously friend on the space you've got between brickwork and window frame.
Great stuff, clear and concise. Good to see building control nonsense tamed. It’s all a game to take things out of the hands of DIY and drive the contractors market. Look where cavity wall insulation got us !
I think you're absolutely right. And a builder mate said to me the other day when I told him I was preparing this video that in his experience these guidelines are often not followed!
Nonsense! The Building Regulations are the MINIMUM standards that have to be achieved and there is nothing apart from Heating and Electrical work that requires any recognised trades certification and therefore within the scope of a DiY'er. If you had seen the vast quantity of botches I have witnessed from both unknowledgeable amateurs and supposedly skilled tradesmen there is a case for more stringent application of the rules rather than less. The Building Regulations came out of the numerous local Public Health Acts that were brought together under a consolidating document, and without them we would still be victims of the Victorian slums. The Building Regs are continually evolving as they play catch-up with modern standards and innovation, the problem is that they are dealing in an ever more technological world so a becoming more prescriptive than performance based.
@@clivewilliams1406 I'm sure what he meant by "building control nonsense" is that the way the controls have evolved (and as you say, it's difficult to blame them for this as they play catch up) means that it's difficult for the average home owner, about to embark on a project, to make sense of.
Charlie DIYte There’s a lot to cover so I shall keep it brief(ish). I did a self build 20 years ago when things were still quite normal, and it was a pleasure to do. Now we are being turned into cash machines and it’s like Dick Turpin has written the building regs. Advanced they maybe, structured robbery it certainly is. All backed and influenced by Gypsum, Knauf, and all the rest. Replacing boilers at £2000 a pop, for something that’s going to break within 5 years. You don’t really get your money back! Electric consumer units seem to be changed more than underpants, that’s just making money out of people. Becoming an eco warrior has some merit, but it’s only forced and driven by the extortion of energy companies. Older property needs to breathe, and the funny thing is it’s already stood the test of time for there not to be an argument that it was built right in the first place. New builds I wouldn’t have given, and I could cry myself to sleep for the amount of ‘quality apartments ‘ I have inflicted onto the great British public. May the Lord have mercy on my soul.
Hi Charlie, A great informative video, thanks! Just out of interest, once you've bought the initial tools (eg. spirit level, drill etc), how much would you say, roughly the room in the video cost in materials to insulate with the K118 before plastering? Thanks!
Hi, you're welcome 👍We're talking 5 sheets of the Kingspan at say £48 per sheet (I don't know what it is retailing at right now) and 2 sheets of standard 12mm plasterboard. Ideally it would be foil backed but you can't use the adhesive with this so maybe batten the whole lot instead. I would have used about 4 bags plasterboard adhesive. Can I leave you to add all that up as I don't know what this stuff is all retailing at right now.
Fisher Duopower would do a good job. For the heavy stuff you could use wall anchors - probably 5x52mm. They work in insulated plasterboard as the umbrella forces itself open even in the insulated foam. The only downside is that the screw head on the bolt is reasonably large, or at any rate looks different to a screw. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e3hjzPNe5wk.html
1 thing i like about your videos is ... you will advise that you and I can do these projects... other videos is.. no you need a professional... you deserve a sub
Glad to hear it. If you have to install back boxes for the plug sockets, try not to cut all the way though the insulation or if you have to, re-insulate behind with spray foam to minimise any cold bridging. You could even glue the insulation boards in place with spray foam rather than plasterboard adhesive. 👍
A couple of little visual little hiccups...... But totally overwhelmed by a fully informative and professional video :-) I really enjoyed it :-) Thank you
They’re foil backed boards you shouldn’t dab foil backed boards, I could pull one off because the dab won’t bond correctly to the boards, might look ok but the bond to the back of the board will be weak. They need screwing to timber or metal stud! And it’s single skin brick get any damp behind the boards which now you can’t see you’ll end up with a mass of black mould behind the boards, too many dabs also and because bonding compound is hemihydrate you’re adding to the chances of mould if you get any damp through from the outside and in time you will!
Great video. We have a 200 year old house with no cavity. Our surveyor prior to purchasing was a heritage specialist surveyor who gave a lot of advice about how to look after older houses. Things like not using plastic masonry paint, gypsum plaster, sand and cement render etc as they are not breathable. They reckon external walls on the inside should be lime plastered. Since you own an older house I am interested on your thoughts on this? I guess its ok to put this thermal plasterboard on older houses? Is it breathable?
Your surveyor was basically right and no, this isn't breathable. Old houses are meant to breath but the problem is that also leaves them difficult to heat and susceptible to mould in unventilated areas. So you have to balance up the pros and cons. If you are going to insulate from the inside, it's critical you do everything you can to minimise cold bridging around windows, corners and plug socket boxes these being the major sources of cold spots and moisture ingress. Also do everything you can to keep the internal humidity down as discussed here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TIDb-pdOnXM.html
Hi Charlie, I am looking at using this K118 in my bathroom refurb like you did previously. Did you put anything on top of the plasterboard (on the painted areas) to make if resistant from moisture from the shower etc? Thanks
I’m looking to install k118 in my house, don’t have any condensation issues. Can the thermal board be installed indirectly onto a painted wall with adhesive and mechanical fixings? Have asked a few builders and they say this shouldn’t be an issue. Any ideas for
U Value is in units of W/m²K. Watts per square meter,. degrees kelvin. Do they define the degrees kelvin? I vaguely recall this is based on the 5*C temperature difference of an unheated property.... but I also recall horrible calculations based on solar days and such.
Great video. Can you please upload video of the best plasterboard fixings, plasterboard with insulation. I saw many videos for plasterboard only but most new builds have insulation and wanted to know which one will be best.
You’ve made really hard work of that fella,, If you had mechanically fixed your boards with “polypropylene fixings” you drill straight through the plasterl (leave plaster on) and fix boards to brickwork,! Therefore no need to remove any plaster,, I’ve used this system for more than 25 years with no problems,,
With all due respect to Kingspan they are wrong about dot and dab and solid walls. It’s true that moisture is a problem and you need to deal with it. Nowadays you can apply a liquid air tightness membrane and apply dot and dab on top of that. You absolutely should not ignore penetrating damp or you will end up with mould but also it’s a real shame that Kingspan who manufacture relatively modern building products don’t seem to know modern building products. Heads up, don’t apply a plastic vapour barrier as that is not breathable and you can end up with mould behind it
I've used the knauff stuff you recommend but it doesn't seem to stick to the foil back very well. The packaging actually says it's not suitable for foil backed...
So I spoke with a business that specialises in insulation and they said I need to leave a space between wall and insulation but also add a moisture barrier
Charlie excellent vid really enjoy your attention to detail and your clear concise explanation for the process. One question did you consider using a foam adhesive? Such as soudal easy bond. I've used it much easier and quicker than dabbing
Thanks David. No I haven't, but you raise a really good point there. MUCH easier and introduces a lot less moisture into the brickwork, and presumably better adhesion. I'll check it out!
Hi, I wish I had seen your videos earlier. I did a lot of DIY work like you, learning on the job. To be honest I think I do a better job than most builders other than those professional single job tradesman. One other option I used was Pink sruff fixit. Spray foam adhesive to stick my insulated boards on. Also could you do a video on wall fixings for these insulated boards...?
Great vid, question do you need a vapour barrier between the PB and insulation to prevent issues with interstitial condensation? We did this method on old house and ended up with mould spots coming through the PB. All about the dew point.
Thanks buddy, I really appreciate that. 👍 For videos like this straying from DIY into building work you have to be on your game or you get shot down in flames 😉
@@CharlieDIYte and more often than not, the ones who criticise are the ones who cut corners to save time and money. They might be able to talk a good job, but it stops there, I've come across those types so many times.
Great fan of your videos Charlie, quick question. I'm just trying to quickly insulate my single brick garage. Is there any reason I can't just screw 11mm OSB to the wall with 40mm Celotext sandwiched in between or is there a reason to dot and dab the insulation to the wall first? Thanks and keep up the great work!
Thanks Norman, I really appreciate that 🙏 So the OSB is going to be the wall finish in the room? No reason at all why you can't do that (and the OSB will itself provide a bit of insulation, I guess), and in fact if you did dot and dab, you'd want to mechanically fix it to the wall anyway. Dot and dab is used because it's quicker and easier than battening, particularly where the wall isn't even. I guess the garage won't be occupied that often (so minimum vapour generation) but your biggest priority with something like this is to ensure you don't have any cold bridges if the room is going to be heated, and the integrity of the vapour barrier. What I've learnt since doing this video is that those sockets cut through the insulation are a major source of cold bridging and can let vapour through so on my last build on my bedroom, I battened the wall with 2x1 tanelised, with DPC where the battening touched the wall, infilled with 1 inch foil backed ecotherm (like Celotex), taped over the battens with foil tape, and then screwed the insulated plasterboard to the battens. The wall was massively uneven behind so by truing up the battens I've also got a nice gap between the battens and the wall. That way, I could cut through the insulation for the electrical back boxes without compromising the integrity of the insulation or vapour barrier (I taped a piece of ply to the back of the insulation to screw the back box into, and drilled a hole vertically to thread the electrical cable through). The small gap between the floor and underside of the insulation was filled with a expanding foam tape, which is breathable but prevents moisture and is very efficient at eliminating cold bridging. It's a bit of a dark art this, but I reckon that method is pretty good. Hope this helps and good luck with the project.
