Appreciate the video. Wish you had gone into more detail about the location of the coolant drain. Assuming it's on bottom of engine. Have an LGX on my FWD Lacrosse. Would like to partially drain coolant to avoid a mess when I replace the thermostat. Not into dumping coolant on floor or driveway, if it's not necessary. Thanks.
The coolant and drain is on the passenger side of the radiator. However having a lacrosse it's possible the location is different as it may use a different radiator etc..
So. I have an '18 RS LGX build. I didn't go with a procharger like your set up. I went with an E-force roots supercharger. From all the sourcing I can find, the block will take 425WHP-450WHP no problem. I'm going from the stock 6PSI 3.5" pully, to a 2.75" 12PSI pully, and I should go from 350WHP to about 400~ WHP give or take. I'm also punching out my cats for better flow. At what point have you experienced "the wall" for what the block can take? How happy are you with your set up? How do you perform against stock SS camaro's, stock GT's and stock 392/392-scatpacks? I'm hoping at 400~WHP or above I should be able to be a proper sleeper, V8 killer.
Sorry I completely missed your question. Before you go to 12psi you will need to upgrade your in tank pump to be safe fuel wise. Stock 6th gen SS is over a second slower in the 1/4 then I am. 392 scat packs etc.. even slower Even a stock C7 corvette shouldnt be an issue. There arent many stock cars that run bottom 11s@125
@@HyperHawkCamaro So, I don't have access to E-85. The problem I am running into is, my shop wouldn't go any smaller than an 8PSI pully. They said at 10, the EGT and intake manifold air temps were too high. They're first solution is a water-meth system to cool it. I don't want to do that. Also, a catless exhaust, with a forced-induction system should make a bigger difference than 10-15WHP, correct? I know that is a big restriction.
Bottom is your overflow tank top is your pressurized. You want some coolant in your overflow yes it evaporates out overtime but if your top tank heats up enough and pressurizes into your overflow tank you will just keep losing more coolant. You should follow the manuals instructions and make sure it's filler properly to reduce air and overheating possibilities
Is it not necessary to use air under pressure to get out all air bubbles out of the cooling system ? At other cars they use a air under pressure instrument to get out the whole air of the system.
So the extra tank is not sealed so this is where all the bubbles air in your system escapes it's also why it evaporates over time these cars aren't a sealed system.
I have a 2017 rs and my temp gauge will drop and will not move and my coolant temp becomes blank. I added coolant to both reservoirs and after one or two days it was normal but coolant temps were around 200. Then it happens again but the top tank was full but the buttom was empty, so idk if I have to add more to the bottom or what to do.
Does temp fluctuates on these cars while driving just did the flush goes from 195 to around 204 it doesn’t stay on a certain degree right sorry first time doing this
@@HyperHawkCamaro okay cause I see it fluctuate around 197 to 208 that’s the highest it got then it went down below 200 just making sure it’s suppose to run like that and not stay in one spot
I recently had to change oil cooler / exchanger so I needed to put coolant in its a 16 and not when I heavy accelerate my temps go up the moment I let of seconds late go rite back too 200 what could that be any help
Engine temps will rise when heavy acceleration is occuring as long as temps are dropping back down you should be good. Just make sure you have enough fluid in the system
so after my blower i'm noticing this issue, level dropping. Have you confirmed this, or have you just noticed it in your own car? I'm worried im lifting a head now.
hey do you twist your coolant cap until you cant twist it anymore? because when I do that the caution symbol faces towards the intake manifold and not towards the cabin like how I see it in everyone camaro
It really depends. I went with a roots style build for my LGX. Edelbrock makes it. Their complete stock kit, without a tune is like $4800~, and you can install it yourself if you want, but you need a good tuner. Or for $500 more you can get their -very- conservative tune. My experience, is the stock 3.5" pully, I got about 50WHP, give or take. I went from 275WHP -> 350WHP. From every source I can find, the block will handle 425WHP no problem, and much above that you start to risk it. I am dropping in a 2.75" pully to double the stock boost, to get the numbers I want. To be frank, Edelbrock is full of shit when they say you'll get "376WHP" on 93 octane, on their stock set up + tune. You'll need a 3.00" pully, at the least to get near that. I'm going 2.75 which is 2PSI above the maximum rated for the supercharger but I'll also be crossing past the 400WHP threshold and should be able to kill V8's with my sleeper. If you stay around or below 425WHP, you should be fine.
