Good explanation Nick on drain down and refilling the c/h pipe work system. However, in your process you’ve not put any inhibitor back into the pipe work when filling? How would you do that when filling back? Thanks
Hi Nick. I managed to move my radiator to another wall thanks to you. I was so scared to do it but after following your video carefully, I managed by myself. Roofer by trade but slowly getting the hang of plumbing. Legend mate, thank you for the brief and spot on video.
Cheers for that no frills straight to the point no giggles. Spoken like your talking to another willing DIY adult. Thank-you. You made it look so simple
Awesome video! Straight to the point, allowed me to fix my radiators easily, Was nervous about going near the boiler but after watching this it made it so simple to drain and refill!
Hi Jack, thanks for your kind words and taking the time to write a nice comment. If you haven't already please like and subscribe to my page as it really helps.
Ahh man you are a star. Do you think that draining my system would be a good idea if I'm getting gurgling/bubbling noises from my boiler? Sounds like theres an air bubble in there.
Hi is it possible to close down all the rads except the rad being worked on & just drain from that rad , saving time emptying part of the system & refilling .
Yes, just make sure tge boiler stays switched off for the duration and all valves are gill shut. If you have a tank on an f&e system then you have to isolate and create an airlock.
Great video, I have a glow worm Ultimate 30c combi boiler, but need to remove 2 radiators so I can plaster the walls. Can i still use my hot water for showers and such(radiators will be removed for a week or so), or would i need to isolate something first? Dave
Well explained. So if i have 3 floors, would i have to bleed both, the second and third floor rads or just second floor? My drain valve is on the ground floor
Before draining open all the valves on both sides of all the rads, that way all crap will hopefully be flush from the rads. you can buy cleaning solution that you add to the cental heating follow steps on product and how to use you mzy need to flush system after using the cleaning solution Important you will need to add an inhibitor to the system to stop crap buildup if you have belp it may be an idea once you've drained system is to take each radiator off and flush it in the garden with a hose
Hi Nick, great video. Quick question, do you not need to close the internal stop tap in your property before doing the work?. Or will the boiler not replenish if its turned off?
Really clear video. One question though, for those of us on single-level flats/apartments i.e. when the boiler is the highest point in the system: how do you let air into the system when draining? Is there a risk of damaging the boiler by pulling a vacuum if you drain it without opening any bleeds? My towel rail is the highest bleed, but it still floods water everywhere because it's a foot below my boiler!
Can I do this to drain off all my radiators and remove them all to paint the house, on my Grant oil boiler system? I still want to have hot water though.
Hi Itfben, absolutly, although I would keep / leave on the bottom half of the house radiators whilst you paint upstairs and then vice versa! Once your done and filling back up, don’t forget to put some inhibitor back into your system, see my Amazon link below for my personal ‘best bits’ for radiators 👍 hope it helps; amzn.to/3RNYHFY
Great video but why do you need to drain the whole system if its a combi boiler? Whenever I change a radiator valve on a combi system i always drop the pressure down with the pressure release valve and isolate the flow pipe valve. I get about half a litre of water coming out the pipes when i undo the rad valves but thats it. Change the rad valves, open the flow valve back up, re-pressurise the boiler, bleed the radiator and job done.
Hi M F, thanks for your kind words and taking the time to write a nice and informative comment, although I would say you're a braver man than I am. If you haven't already please like and subscribe to my page as it really helps.
Could you close all the upstairs rads except one drain downstairs so to saves time filling back up because all the upstairs rads are full except the one you use let air in upstairs
Great video thanks. Does anyone know if leaving water out of a system for an extended period of time can damage a combi boiler? I am taking most of the central heating pipes out and wanted to check first. By extended period of time I mean a couple of months
@@NickTaylorPlumbingLtd Successfully flushed, cleaned and refilled my CH system last weekend! Added some inhibitor too, should be good for now. There were three drain cocks to deal with and one of them was leaking, so I replaced it too. That and the filling loop valve which was not shutting properly, so pressure was building up and leaking water via the PRV. Feeling great about doing it all by myself! :)
I have a leaking 90degree plastic elbow in the ceiling immediately beneath my combi boiler. Found due to staining of ceiling. Strangely system had been good for 8 years, and the leak only appeared after the boiler was serviced. I wonder if the heating water temperature setting was higher after the service and just enough to cause the leak? I saw the service engineer "waggle" the temperate dials which I think is part of putting the boiler into service mode. I have no idea of the original temperature setting, but I never changed it in all those years. Currently it drips. If I refill the system it is good for a few hours until the pressure drops and the boiler shuts itself down. According to a friend I should find a drain point on one of the ground floor radiators (he says it a legal requirement) but there isn't any drain point on any radiator. According to the same friend he suggested for him it would be a DIY job. He lives too far away to help 😞 He also suggested that freezer spray could be used to isolate the pipes around the elbow, although on the upper side of the elbow is the pipe that comes straight from the boiler and I assume(!) that there is an isolation valve on the output of the heating feed which will take care of that side of the elbow? I have used Checkatrade to find interested parties. I emailed one company all details (including lack of drain point). They have said that the job will take 2 to 3 hours. Since in my layman's head swapping the elbow should be pretty quick, what is it about the job that means it could take 2 possibly 3 hours? I just want to make sure that I'm not being taken for a ride.
Hi Jack, If you haven't already please like and subscribe to my page as it really helps. Yes you should add inhibitor once you've carried out all work and are ready to fill up, best to read the bottle on the quantity to put in as they all vary, as a guide, the inhibitor I use is a 1 litre bottle to around 10 average sized radiators. Hope that helps.
Hi Atommachine, thanks for your message, any type of draining the system will create air in your system, infact all system create air inside themselves as the water rusts the inside of the radiators and that process releases air. If you have any difficulties with an airlock, check out my other videos which explain how to remove an airlock. Hope that helps. If you haven't already don't forget to like and subscribe.
Hi Stephen Burns, love the idea, as this is a combi boiler its under pressure and in theory should push out any air locks, I haven't had to whip out the pump before but I have used a wet vac to suck out an airlock, ill do a video in a few weeks time on how to do this.
Hi, first time I watched your videos and very informative thank you. I hope you don’t mind me asking but are you basically saying if you switch off your boiler then no more water, other than what is already there, will go to the radiators. TIA
Hi Wayne thanks for your comment, its always advisable to add central heating inhibitor to they central heating system before you refill the system as it helps slow down the rusting process inside the radiators.
If you've got a combi boiler link the thermostat control to stop the boiler firing on central heating. Close the return and flow whilst the system is pressured and your DHW should stay on demand. If you loose pressure your boiler will go into lockout. Drain the rest of the system 😉.
Amazing video, you have a new subscriber Sir. I do not have drain valve anywhere in a system. All there is, is just valves with TRVs and valves for rebalncing the system. Can I just unscrew one of these valves entirelly from the radiator and drain the system that way? If so does it matter which radiator I use for draining the water? I have 5 radiators in a system all on the same floor. Water is basically black when I am bleeding radiators so I need to get rid of that water and get new fresh water into the system so my radiators are not as cold at the bottom from all the sludge gathered.
Hi Nick, thanks for your message and nice name by the way. By rights all installations should have these drain off valves however your right sometimes there not fitted (original installer fail). There are a couple of ways around this which I'll post a new video how to do this soon especially fo you! Hope that helps. If you haven't already don't forget to like and subscribe.
Hi, great video and thank you. Is it safe to dump glycols/biocide/molybdate etc straight out onto the ground? Wont this leach into the surrounding soils and eventually into the water course?
Great video nick. When draining the water down should your be opening up all the lock shields / TRV's . I want to drain my system to add a cleaner in it?
Hi Arts&Trusts, thanks for your message, before draining your central heating system down, turn the heating on, if all rads get hot then technically no you don't need to open them as the water is circulating properly. I would leave locks shields / TRVs as they are, add the cleaner and let circulate for the length of time specified on the cleaner. Then before draining the central heating system I would open all lock shields / TRVs fully, then drain, this would allow any larger debris to pass through the valves easier. Then refill. You'll need to rebalance your system afterwards which I have a video on so please check it out. Hope that helps. If you haven't already don't forget to like and subscribe.
@@NickTaylorPlumbingLtd thanks for the detailed response, you've earnt a subscriber sir. Lastly can I with adding cleaner, I have a heated towel rail up stairs and combi boiler down stairs. Am I right thinking to drain a litre of water out and then add the litre of the cleaner in and let that do its work for specified amount of time.
if i folow your instructions and then turned water back on would it flush sytem round and back out of hose to flush it well and clean.all valves reclosed exept drain pipe valve.. is this right?????
Hi Jeffrey Palin, thanks for taking the time to comment, Im going to do a video on this just for you! If you haven't already don't forget to like and subscribe!
Mine are bit old radiator and don't have them drain valves.. but can you use on to drain out top floor radiators on boiler?? They should have drain valve should they?? Thanks for educative video
Gary 70 thanks for the messege, you put the inhibitor in before you refill the system but after you’ve made all the alterations to the central heating system. 👍
Hi Eddy, thanks for your message and its always nice to have positive feedback. Any questions or any video requests please feel free to ask. If you haven't already don't forget to like and subscribe.
What happens then if your in bungalow all rads on one floor turn boiler off. Do you still open all the bleed valves and there are more drain offs.would you have to still drain if from all drain offs or just the one your working on
Hi Rodrigo, thanks for your kind words and taking the time to write a nice comment. If you haven't already please like and subscribe to my page as it really helps.
Hi Muhammad, that's great news and thanks for your comment, I've got loads of helpful videos planned! A little busy at the moment as critical worker during lockdown but when things ease off I've got loads planned. Thanks again
Hi AJ, Wonderful thanks for your kind words and hope it helped, Ill be putting up plenty of videos so if you haven't already don't forget to like and subscribe. Thanks again, Nick
Great vid, quick question... If I’m switching an upstairs rad to a towel rail do I need to drain the whole system, or just enough so that the top floor is drained?
Are you not suppose to turn off the main water supply that comes into the house first? Otherwise wouldnt it just keep fiiling up the roads and boiler! Just an observation.
Hi Juicy, thanks for the comment, you don’t necessarily need to turn the mains water off for a combi boiler, if you watch my video on how to drain down a gravity fed system then yes you do need to turn the water off. However. If in doubt turn the water off, it’s always best to be safe than sorry 👍
A great and simply explained video Nick. I'm a Trader so not much to do with plumbing, but you teach well and I was quite successful changing the rad! Cheers man
Hi, i need to repair a bit of copper pipe i have slightly gouged with a drill bit, its not leaking yet but dont want it to in the future. I need to cut a bit of the pipe away and im planning on fitting a compression fitting. I need to drain the hot water that is in that pipe, is there a way to do this without draining all the radiators and everything? The tap its connected to is the kitchen sink, could i turn off the stopcock to the house and run the hot kitchen tap until it stops?
Thanks for the clear instructions Nick as I need to do this, I am wondering at what point should chemicals bs added to the system as I live in a very hard water area? Thanks again.
Got a question for ya, over the summer my boiler kept losing pressure and I could see this via the gauge when it kept falling below the green zone, checked all the rads, no leaks and bled too with all being full but it still kept happening and it took absolutely ages for the pressure gauge to reach the green area. Now we've passed summer I've noticed that it's constantly in the green area and pressure isn't dropping and heating and the boiler is working fine...would you recommend changing the boiler or is this just a small case with nothing to worry about? Great video too by the way, I've been wanting to empty the system for ages to add more radiators in new position so thanks 👍
Hi Echo, If you have a combi boiler or a pressurised cylinder (unvented cylinder) then you are correct, if you have a tank in the loft (gravity fed system) check out my other video on how to drain down a gravity fed system here - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2G4hf_Hsgb0.html If you haven't already don't forget to like and subscribe.