You can also turn the heat all the way up, and top up the tank as the engine is running. It also helps to leave the cap off while the engine is running with the new coolant to allow air pockets to escape so you don’t get air trapped in the system.
PSA: don’t use needle nose pliers to get the hose clamps off as per the description - get a specific tool (~$15) and save yourself hours of torment and struggle 😅👍🏻 (speaking from recent experience)
Automakers figure that the coolant will last until the warranty is over. After that, they don’t care if you can easily drain the coolant or not. They should be fined by the government since it’s an uncontrolled spill that can spill on the ground.
ok so where is the "bleed your radiator" part? did i miss something? is there a way to bleed the radiator? its in the description but i didnt see anything about bleeding it in the video :( thats the only reason i watched this :(
The expansion tank is usually the highest component in this type of cooling system and air naturally "bleeds" to this highest part (as evidenced by how quickly the coolant level dropped after the initial start up). Air may continue to bleed over the first several drive cycles so be prepared to add more coolant if the level drops below the full mark.
The expansion tank is usually the highest component in this type of cooling system and air naturally "bleeds" to this highest part (as evidenced by how quickly the coolant level dropped after the initial start up). Air may continue to bleed over the first several drive cycles so be prepared to add more coolant if the level drops below the full mark.
So Chevy decided to cut ✂️ out drain plugs on the radiators to save 2$ or 3$ per Truck resulting in millions saved for an already rich company??? I'd rather pay the 2$ or 3$ extra and have a freaking drain plug. Also would like not to have to peel back the wheel well trim. Older vehicles accomplished this year's ago so why complicate it now by things hard? Chevy is getting on alot of people's nerves here lately and still we buy it.
It’s a done more complicated now days so you will say ,”screw all that”, and take to the dealer where they can charge you a hundred or so dollars an hour to do what was once a simple job.
When draining radiator fluid cold do you need to take off thermostat to allow engine block to drain as well only got maybe 2 gallons of fluid out of the radiator where's the rest of it
Hi I am having trouble with my 2007 suburban 1500 The motor is been getting over heating I changed the thermostat water pump and radiator and still gets over heat can you guys give me some ideas Wthat too fix
+capo3029 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
@@capo3029 Are your cooling fans coming on? That's the first thing I'd check, if not, could be a fuse/relay or bad fan motor. Make sure you don't have any obstructions in front of the rad (behind the bumper cover), could easily pick up a plastic bag or something on the road. Wouldn't hurt to hit it with a hose or pressure washer to clean the stack out, either. Another possibility is air trapped in the system, also possible you got a bad new thermostat (not likely, but possible).
I recently just replaced the engine on my 2007 Chevrolet Suburban 5.3, and the engine that i just installed has been completely ran through with new parts, the engine runs great, but when i gilled it with coolant, and ive done all the correct steps, it continues to overheat, well i just replaced the thermostat last week, it still continues to overheat, the waterpump is good...can anybody tell me what might be the problem?
My experience with 2012 Suburban 5.3 so far: raised pass front. Removed as described, the inner fender liner and lower rad hose. Additionally, I removed the intake assembly between throttle body and MAF to gain access to heater core hose on input side of thermostat at the water pump, and disconnected it to allow the balance of coolant out of the engine and heater core. Did this because the thermostat is most likely closed at this point. So my question is, if both sides of the thermostat are emptied, would there be anything significant left in the system? After doing this, and properly “burping“ the engine, I was never able to add more than two full gallons of coolant mix, While the advertised capacity of this vehicle, is on the order of 4.5 gallons. In my opinion, I believe I am missing something.
You can remove the hose without lifting the vehicle but it is tight , that’s what i did , and i think they removed the wheel so you can locate the hose you need to remove
+Mule Shark This video is only to show how to drain, fill, and bleed the radiator. It is not required to completely flush the radiator unless you are having some other issues. Thank you.
@@seth_5394 If you were throwing dirt inside your sealed system then yes you should flush it completely. But they are showing a sealed clean system. This will work fine, did it get 100% of all coolant out? No but its coolant vs city water you want to flush with, which will contaminate the system. By replacing 99% of the coolant you are restoring the coolant.
@@user-re3qq7pi7iI did it from top too but I didn’t take out the air box cause I was lazy. I had to squeeze my arm down there with vice grips and about half an hour later I got it off. Definitely not the proper way but it was on my own vehicle so idc how long it takes😂
Hi 1A Auto parts, Thankyou for your great vids, I've just subscribed. I watched one of your other vids on bleeding breaks, very helpful but I did mine and once I have the air out and the break pedal is hard I start the vehicle and the moment I do that the pedal goes spongy, is it because they're power assisted breaks and I have to do it whilst it's running? Thankyou in advance. (I'm asking on this vid because the break vid is 4 years old)
+Ricky Driver Thanks for watching! If you bled the brakes and still have that issue then We recommend you have a trusted mechanic take a look at it. One thought is it could be the brake booster. 1aauto.com
+Frank Arango The basic steps to flush a car engine block are: Remove the lower radiator hose and catch the draining coolant in a bucket. Remove the top radiator hose and flush the system out with a normal hose. Continue until the water runs clear out of the bottom of the engine. Refill with coolant and reattach the radiator hoses.
Doesn't work like that.... if its not running or hot that thermostat is closed so coolant is being flushed thru the engine block. Your only draining the radiator and coolant tank.
+Nick C. It might be a similar process. Here is a link to the radiators that we carry on our website for a 2008 1500 (if that's what you have). Hope this helps you out goo.gl/D7vmXd
+gino capone We currently do not have an auto repair video that covers this particular repair. We will keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. 1aauto.com
+Oscar Lopez It may be a different procedure on your application. We currently do not have an auto repair video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking. 1aauto.com
I’ve thought about drilling a hole in the hose i need to move and just putting a rubber coupling with hose clamps. Maybe even putting a hose and a barbed fitting into the hole i drill. 5 bucks to save a mess and maybe even saving the fluid.
