*Tandem Talk Newsletter:* join.kametrick.com/ Drift Techniques, Behind The Scenes, and Bonus Content Inside! Video Chapters 0:00 - How to Steer with Braking Techniques 1:09 - Steering with Angle and Engine Braking 2:05 - When to use Handbrake in Drift 3:57 - Introduction to Foot Braking in Drift 4:54 - When to use Normal Foot Brake in Drift 5:34 - Feint Entries with Handbrake and Foot Brake 6:35 - Using Left Foot Brake in Drift 7:27 - When to use Light Left Foot Brake 8:38 - When to use Heavy Left Foot Brake 9:43 - How to use Left Foot Brake in Tandem Drifting
Man, this is perfect timing! I'm going through the process of learning these techniques on my sim setup. It's been frustrating at times trying to get stuff right, but this helps so much so thank you for this!!
I’m glad I could help! Keep practicing and things will continue to click as your internalize the techniques and make connections about what works best in different corners or tandem situations 💪
Sweet! I made it into another video at 8:22! Thank you again Ben🤟 this was my first time ever trying to follow from a distance. Your videos gave me the confidence to try my first ever "tandem" and I totally bailed on the last turn by hitting the brakes bc I felt too close lol
That’s the best way to start, I did the same thing when I was learning…try to watch the lead car and also pay attention to everything you normally do, but if you get too close it’s best to just bail and try again. Eventually you can start working on using handbrake to slow down before you need to bail until you can drift whole laps behind people (without being super close) and then do the same for left foot brake, slowly getting closer as you build more skill 👍🏻
This is the best video I've seen on left foot braking. I learned sim drifting on touges, in solo, so I didn't even go online in Assetto until a year ago(I've been learning on sims for about four years now though). And left foot braking was just something that I started doing naturally when drifting touges like Happogahara. You slow down for a corner and you notice that the car naturally swings the rear out as a consequence. And by now I consider it to be almost as important as throttle and wheel control. I think of throttle, wheel and brake when used together acting as a way of triangulating the car's position. Imagine the car from overhead: you want to know exactly where it is: so you have three dots that when linked confine the car to a particular position. That's triangulation. If you only have two dots you're not going to be able to confine it to a very precise position. But add a third dot and you can determine where it is with a lot more precision. That's what adding left foot brake to throttle and wheel control does for me. Those three things triangulate the position of the car while drifting. I was drifting a Tsubaki line lobby yesterday, a very tricky touge with tight corners and roads and a lot of elevation changes, and I was using the brake in some form for pretty much 60-70% of the run. For forcing power over in tight areas where you can't weight-transfer flick the car, for tightening angle for an upcoming corner, for slowing a transition if it's getting a bit wild in too high a gear, for reverse entrying big fast corners, etc. etc. My handbrake(do not buy Fanatec handbrakes BTW - public service information, yw) has been broken since Christmas, and with left foot brake I really don't notice its absence that much. I don't use clutch anywhere near as much as left ft braking; other people use clutch a lot and I just don't quite understand what they're getting out of it aside from clutch-kicking for maintaining revs. I asked another YT drifter and they got quite angry and defensive because I said it seemed like left foot braking could do all of what the clutch was doing, only with more precision because you have more control over a brake than over a clutch. He said drifters only use the brake when they've made an error and left foot braking is pointless. That's when I left.
Watching drifters is impressive already, but seeing in detail the techniques they use is astonishing 😮 Absolutely amazing 👏🏾 Might have to fire up AC and give it a go
I didn't know left foot braking was the more understood technique. It just felt natural to left for because its you can make small and precise adjustments. It just felt like the right thing to do. I would often then get confused and didn't understand why I saw people using only one foot. You're video's definitely helped me understand more about the techniques for drifting. Thank you, You are doing an amazing job making these videos, you do such a good job about braking things down simply. Amazing work.
I appreciate the feedback! My video production schedule has been wrecked recently due to some unexpected health problems, but I still read all my comments, reply when I can, and take note of good ideas. If you have any suggestions, fire away. I hope to get back to editing by December once I recover😅
@@KameTrick Making the effort to not only try to read all your comments, but also respond to them, that is a very admirable trait. I don't know what kind of health problems you're going through, but I wish you good luck, I hope and I pray that you make a full recovery, Kame. Get better soon! Oh, and I absolutly LOVE your car! what kind of car is it?
@@majestic6idiot it's a 1991 Nissan 240SX. (S13 / 180/200SX are also basically the same car) Mine looks a little different due to aero kit stuff. They're great cars, but any RWD with around 150hp+ and a locking diff has the potential to be a solid drift car to get started with
You accelerate slower is great mnemonic. :)) You accelerate slower thus letting your rear catch up and get more oversteer, thus more angle. Quality vid!
Great content, delivery style and video examples! One minor issue is that you're talking about how various inputs affect the G-forces... But in reality there are no G-forces. There's the inertia of the car (that wants to go straight at constant speed and steady rotation if no forces are applied), friction from the tires (which is the primary thing you control with the pedals and the steering wheel) and the load on the suspension (which is the secondary thing you control). What's perceived by the driver as G-forces is just the car trying to carry the driver along with the car (same thing -- the body wants to keep traveling straight at constant speed).
I was SOOO stoked when that came out translated into English on DVD. Bought it straight away and watched it like 5 times before each IRL drift event I’d go to back when I was learning in 2004-05! Crazy to think that now I speak Japanese and have translated for D1 drivers at USA events, or that I used to live in Japan. Following a dream is wild 🤓
I’ve been streaming a bit less to focus on edits like this one (but life got in the way and it’s been over a month 💀) As for the streams, I’m running an experiment and doing them on twitch for now. I actually have one tonight in about 5 hours 👋🏻 Hope to see you in the premiere tomorrow
Thank you very much! Very interesting, I'll try this tomorrow in tandems. Seems, I know how all of this works, but cannot match with tandems unfortunately. I will try the last tip about left foot braking in transitions and this tip with less angle and control of the speed with the brake. But I have another issue: when I make a transition behind the leader, I jump too inside (go to inner line more than I need) and have less angle. Smaller angle I'll try to fix with left foot brake, but what to do with the lining behind the leader? Probably, this is not a question for a comments section, maybe one day you will decide to make a detailed video about this xD. What questions are in my head: where to watch and which parts of the leader car should I focus on to stay in good stable tandem? What line can be the most effective to control the situation and be able to stay close? How to handle slower drivers (for example, a leader who runs in super big angles)? The last one I guess is a left foot brake as well, but maybe you have more tips for this.
For anyone who wants a good beginners drift car, which they can daily drive, that is affordable plus reliable... it sounds almost impossible. But there is the Subaru BRZ/Toyota GT86. These cars are affordable to get, good gas mileage, no turbo, very light, 4 seats 2 doors, low center of gravity, high redline, stock limited slip diff, 200+ hp, and somewhat narrow wheels. All of this means that the car just loves to go sideways, but it is very predictable. All while it is reliable and cheap to run.
Glad it’s helping!! And yeah it’s fine to just be a badass solo driver, cheaper too cause your car doesn’t take much damage that way. I was a solo-only driver for about 10 years, and I still do some solo laps, it’s all good 🤙🏻
Yeah, I was using ebrake with left foot brake at the same time (that clip is slowed down, otherwise I’m not on the brake long enough for the B-roll footage to sync up to what I’m saying 😆
hey kame I was wondering have you ever used your sim on the game car x cause they got your car in the game and I wanted to get your opinion on if the game feels like real life to you and weather real life tuning actually translates to the game or not?
You definitely have to try things in the simulator or a real car, and as your understanding and skills improve various parts of this video will “click” for you more. Some of these techniques can be a lot to process, or challenging to visualize if you are still building your foundational knowledge.
Can you please share your fanatec wheel settings? I’ve been dying to get some good settings. We have the same wheel and you have a lot of seat time in a real car, so I figure your settings are pretty realistic, thank you!
momentum and inertia. if you're going 30mph in a straight line, then rotate 90 degrees, the car will eventually come to a stop because you can only slide so far in that direction. even if you're on the gas, the power is pushing in a different direction compared to the direction the car is sliding. angle stall basically happens when all the 'forward' momentum runs out before you've carried the car across the arc of a turn.
Buying and Building the car can be expensive, I won’t guess on used car prices these days but expect to put 5-15K into tuning and aero. But you can break that out over several years! Annual maintenance is probably under $150. An actual track day with tires is $300-600 depending on how many tires you use, which is a function of how much power you tuned the car to make, and a big reason I like matsuri cars with only around 300-400whp. You can drive them gentle and only use 1.5-2 sets of tires per event ✌🏻