Thanks for a great video! I'm going to re-dye my black belt that is super warn (full grain 1/4" thick double stitched). I'm also going to try and shorten a tan belt now that I know how to do that!
Hey Rob, just wanted to say I'm very thankful for folks like you trying diy solutions and showing us the process. I've been a leatherworker for years but a resole on my boots would be terrifying. Because of your videos I had the confidence to do a full resole on my 1982, Cove combat boots. It was amazing. Thank you for the inspiration.
@@CobblerBob No pics unfortunately, I was halfway through the resole and noticed the upper leather was a very poor quality suede coated in some type of synthetic. I went through with the resole and it turned out very good in my opinion but I didn't want to wear them knowing the leather would break down after a few months of use. Donated them to a thrift store downtown so hopefully somebody will appreciate them.
Genuine leather often IS corrected grain. The term Genuine leather only means that it is not a non-leather artificial material. The next step up is usually full grain leather. Generally a shoe made from full grain leather will be advertised as such. So generally if it doesn’t say full grain leather, it’s probably corrected grain.
D’Oh! Hopefully it was not expensive!! They’re all learning lessons. Once I cut something I shouldn’t have cobbling… my wrist! In all seriousness, my best tip I try to reiterate is to learn on thrifted, old, and/or inexpensive items, then advance.
Are you referring to the bottom of the outsoles? Yes, sure, why not. The challenge is what color they currently are and what color you're going to. The base color affects the final color.
Just discovered your channel, thank you for all of this useful info. I realize this video is ostensibly about belts, but I've been learning about shoe construction for a few years now and have not spent any time considering the leather quality. I now have a starting point, thank you. Speaking of shoe construction, would you happen to be at all familiar with the Reverse Goodyear process? I recently purchased a couple pairs of 'Reversa Goodyear' Bally's and cannot find any useful info anywhere.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad they helped. No! I've never heard of that! Could it be referring to a Goodyear welted shoe with a split reverse welt? A split reverse welt will be L shaped. It will have a turned up lip that runs along the side of the shoe. AKA a storm welt.
@@CobblerBob Thanks for the response! Love your generosity of spirit Robert! This is all I can find on the process: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZHnZl0HvqKU.html&ab_channel=FIORETTOSRL Seems like they start with the lasted shoe inside out. The welt is on the inside of the shoe. Gives it a Blake Stitch look and flexibility while also keeping them more durable and resoleable. I may just be reading into it what I want as I cannot fully understand everything in the video. Haha!
Going from a lighter to darker color is usually relatively easy. I’ve never had any luck lightening anything black, although others have. I’d look for something tan to dye Burgundy.
Hey Rob do you know what's underneath the corrected grain coating? Is it a stable albiet ugly piece of leather or is it more like chipboard/mdf where it's just scraps of lather all glued togehter? Always been curious about that
It will be an actual piece of leather under the coating on corrected grain leather. If it’s made from scraps of leather glued together, that’s called bonded leather.
@@CobblerBob That's interesting, I assume the top part (skin?) of the original leather is removed to help the coating adhere, but I wonder, if you were to tear all that off, would you come out with effectively a suede pair of shoes? Perhaps a solution to extremely cracked old corrected grain shoes
