Thank you so much for this video! My door came completely off the track this morning, and I wanted to fix it myself. After struggling too long, I found your video. This was thorough, incredibly helpful, and you present in such an approachable way. Not only do I now know much more about bi-fold doors and how to install and align them, but I also feel like a total bad a** because I fixed mine. Thank you for your help!!
OMG perfect shop teacher voice. Excellent video. Just purchased two heavy bi-fold wood and glass doors to separate living room and dining room. Thank you.
Thank you for the great instructions, Paw Paw! The only thing that I would change is the placement of the knobs. It opens much easier by placing them in the middle of the second panel. (Towards where the door opens).
I found this video to figure out why my bifold doors wouldn't close all the way. Turns out I placed some of the door hinges on backward. Thanks for the great tip, Paw Paw!
I purchased a set of Bi-fold doors almost 10 years ago but have been to intimidated to install them, This video has given me the confidence to finally attempt the install. Fingers crossed. I've subscribed to your channel
Nice job, Paw Paw. But if I may make a suggestion.... You seem to be making a common mistake with respect to the use of your drill/driver's transmission. It appears in your video that you have your tool's speed set to "2", when it should be set to "1" for most of this project. When driving fasteners, you need power (torque), so your tool's transmission should be set to "1" when driving. When drilling (for example, holes for your door pulls), you need speed, so your tool's transmission should be set to "2" when drilling. As I said, this is a common mistake, and it's primarily responsible for the tool chattering and the stripping of the heads of your fasteners (as your driver bit keeps trying to jump off the head). Bottom line: You viewers need to remember - "1" is for power, "2" is for speed.
@@mattdowns1316 As I approach 70, I find that thrills don't come as easily as they did when I was ten foot tall and bulletproof, and so I take them where and when I can get them. That having been said, watching and commenting on this video did not constitute a "thrill" for me - although it did give me SOME satisfaction to think I might be helping persons less experienced than I to understand some basic rules for operating a drill-driver. In fact, I thought that helping people understand was the whole purpose of videos like this one. And since half a dozen viewers found my comment worthy of an up-vote in just one month, and it was appreciated by Paw Paw himself, I'm going to give myself a little pat on the back for having achieved a small victory in that regard. I clearly have no idea how old or experienced YOU are, but I can gather from your caustic and moronic comments on this thread that you don't understand the difference between critiquing and criticizing, so here's another little pearl of wisdom for you, Grasshopper. The purpose of critiquing is to improve future performance, whereas the purpose of criticizing is, more often than not, to make yourself feel bigger by making someone else feel smaller. I would suggest to you that my comment on this thread was intended to achieve the former, while your comments seem to be intended to achieve the latter. In the words of the late, great Dean Vernon Wormer, "Fat drunk and stupid is no way to go through life, son." But feel to down-vote my comments and continue along on your merry way, encouraging others to be as ignorant as yourself.
Bob Cusanelli you’ve got too much time on your hands! And I’m a joiner you dick!! You need a hobby instead of typing war and peace, quoting people and calling people - you say you approaching 70 - yet need to grow up - arse
I wanted to replace my closet bifold bottom pivot bracket. It looks similar to your old one. Do you know what they are called and whether they are still selling those? I don't want to get new door and the old one doesn't use predrilled hole and the ones on Amazon are the new kind that you have. It is a smooth pin that require bushing.
The bottom pivot bracket is very common. Any hardware store will carry them. They come in a little kit wi the bracket and the pivot pin that goes into the bottom of the door
@@PawPawsWorkShop My old door still have the pivot but it's the smooth kind and it's attached to the side of the door not drilled to the bottom. I just need a replacement for the bottom bracket and the bushing. Smooth kind. Not the jagged bottom one. I prefer to not have to drill new hole into the door if I don't have to.
On the top inside pivot bracket closest to the corner of the jam anyone happen to know the size of the screw that tightens it down? I did a stupid thing and lost the screw and don't feel like paying $8 for another kit.
Wow, sounds like you will need to frame in the extra space. There is really not a good way to do it other than framing in the space to get you to the 48" spacing.
On the bottom bracket, is it not absolutely necessary to have the one screw going into the floor? Just wondering because I'd love to not have to drill through my laminate and underlayment if it's not absolutely necessary.
The door pivots on a point at the bottom and has a tract at the top. If you pull the track and the pivot bracket forward the distance required to make the door flush and you will have the door flush with the opening. Just measure with the door closed to see how much you need to bring the bracket before you start
Typically no, if the hole is broken, fill the hole with another piece of wood and glue it in place. Once the glue has dried drill a new hole into the repaired spot. It will be just like new.
We just purchased bi-fold closet doors and we went with the size that matched out measurements. How much can you trim off these doors because he trimmed 1/4 inch and it's still too tall?? Help!!
Gina Reynolds . Measure the height that you need taking in consideration the hardware roller and the pin at the bottom. Once you have the correct measurement, measure from the top and mark a line on the bottom of the door for your cut line. Take a square and using a utility knife score the cut line several times. Then with a circular saw you can cut the door. The scores line will help prevent the door from having a rough edge. If you have a block plane slightly bevel the cut. If not, then use sandpaper.
@@PawPawsWorkShop Hi thanks for replying. Well we have cut 3/4 of an inch off and it still won't fit. It measured 79 inches, we bought a door that was 80 & we have cut off 3/4 inch and it still won't fit. What in the world? Can we cut some off top too or just cut another 1/2 off bottom? Wish we could've hired an installer, lol
When inserting the upper and lower guide pins, make sure it is on the same panel. Then the roller on the other panel on the top. Frustrating if not paying attention.
What happens when you're painting wood toned doors and paint doesn't cover great? I sanded, primed with kilz, then painted. You can see a bit of discoloration, not much, but I see it.
