Great to hear! Be sure to look over my PVC video playlist below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks ru-vid.com/group/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT
Good to know how to use hole bit for removal of 'stop'; however, I wish you hadn't edited when you placed the glued fitting on the second stretch of pipe.
i wish i had this tip yesterday! I'm going to get one of those hole saws today! My wife has me changing sprinkler heads all the time, and i have come across this situation more times than i can count. Instead of hole saws, my go-to tools are expletives and more profanity! I like your idea better.
This videos are a joy to watch, I had never done piping before but now that I need to do some repairs Im getting a lot of knowledge from here. Thanks man 🤙
Nice trick! I've worked with every size irrigation pipe from 1/2"-6" but never knew this trick. Another trick when using actual ratcheting pipe cutters is take a brush full of purple primer & let it run under your blade while cutting pipe w/ cutters & it makes cutting so much easier softens the pvc or something.
You're welcome! Check out my PVC video playlist below. Be sure to rate thumbs up and share. Thank you! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1o4E2pdEv-s.html
I’m an irrigation tech and I have to say this is very crafty but I would not use it on a larger pipe. Also fittings for a sprinkler head are more useful to be glued sideways not on an upward position as weight can cause breaks, sideways will only break the sprinkler or swivel.
OMG!! God loves me and put me right in front of this video! you have no idea how much time, money and energy you just help me to save!! I'm in charge of 175 acre of irrigation and everything goes from 2in and lower PVC... I don't have enough words to thank you!! God bless you! 🙌💙
Best idea I have seen yet for adding a “T” to underground pipe. I am adding some freeze proof spigots to the yard around my home and needed a way to do this. Thanks
is it though? notice how he doesn't show it right when the fitting goes on... a little screen magic. THIS is not how you do this repair if you are inexperienced.
This way of doing it worked much better then using the special tool used to drill out broken plastic pvc pipe from connectors that I bought at the plumbing store. I don’t understand how it happened, but after drilling the fitting, it somehow made the inside diameter smaller, and the pipe will not insert easily enough. (It inserted more easily before the drilling!) Maybe the cutting edge needs to be bent out a little like you mention with the whole saw. Anyhow thanks for the useful tip! I’ll definitely try it.
Great to hear! Practice makes perfect, and it's very helpful for some situations. Be sure to check out my "PVC Pipe Tips & Testing" video playlist below, and most importantly share my videos with others. Thanks Tom! ru-vid.com/group/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT
If you slip a length of pipe in the vertical part of the Tee, without glue, it gives you a better indication of when the Tee is perfectly rotationally aligned, so that the vertical pipe is perfectly plumb. Then you can take that length of pipe out, and glue it up or put in whatever fitting you need (a reduced, in this situation). It's hard to tell when that tee is rotationally aligned perfectly if you are just looking at the fitting.
Hey Doug, Good thing to know for adding something or perhaps a repair of the line. You do have a lot of really good DIY money and headache saving videos, Thank you. All the best, C.
@@electronicsNmore Thank you Doug. I appreciate all you do. I don't know why but when I do a reply it removes the fact I watched the video. " Which I did. One reason I don't reply back like I did. I will watch it again to fix this. Anyone else having this problem with youtube???
@7:44 you fast forwarded through the part I'm struggling with the PVC sliding part. I wish you would have let us see how you work it in and the struggle so that we can learn. That's really hard.
If it's hard then you're not doing it right. You need to work quickly and smoothly and keep the part moving, as stated in the video. If you do it right the TEE will slide easily, and the glue will serve as lubrication. That said, it's annoying when videos that teach us a novel method skip over the critical moment, and a lot of videos do that for some reason.
Great to hear! I live in flip flops. :-) You'll greatly enjoy my PVC tips and pressure testing video playlist below. Be sure to rate thumbs up, share, and subscribe. Thank you ru-vid.com/group/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT
Thanks for the tip. Will implement when Slip-Fix is not available and when a constant pressure line repair is involved. Keep in mind, a slip repair coupling in this situation, could have completed the repair in less than 5 minutes.
Adding a Tee inline is actually a lot easier than drilling it out and sliding like you did. Just dig the hole a little longer the length of the pipe, cut the section like you did, glue one side, then glue the fitting and pipe, pull up on both ends of the pipe, and then fit the pipe in to the Tee. It works remarkably well.
I've been working on PVC lines for 30 years, it's not that easy. You need to dig back at least a few feet, especially for 1" pipe. This tip was for people that don't want to dig up a lot of the pipe, or if they need to tap into a line where a lot of digging isn't possible, such as next to a sidewalk or driveway. As for the burrs, I said to remove all the burrs, and you can see me grab a couple from the inside of the pipe. Thanks for watching
did this a couple of days ago, but with copper connectors for water/central heating pipe, i used my lathe to ream them out but it guess a vice and a drill will do the job
In the future it may be good to know you can get what's called a slip coupling for copper pipe which will do the same thing but save time by not needing to modify a fitting on a lathe.
😀 I have one of those extremely rare channels on YT that shows a very wide range of videos/skills. My videos give viewers a broad education. As a result, it makes it much harder for me to get a lot more subs faster, the reason why is because they don't know what video to expect next, unlike a channel dedicated to one thing. Thanks for watching!
Great video and tip, thank you. We use pipe saddles to do this in my area. You just drill the appropriate size hole in the supply pipe, then bolt the correct size saddle in place. A seal inside the saddle seals around the hole.
You didn't mention to make sure to get the burrs off from "inside" the pipe. Not cleaning them out will clog the filters at the sprinkler heads over time. They will break free and go down stream after some time.
I use a heat gun. dig the hole, cut coser to one side glue the t on the shorter side, let it dry. Then heat the long side from 2" to 8" until bends like spagettit. Then prime and glue, use a plyer to hold the end of the pipe.
Can you recommend a cheap gun model that can get this done? I've never used one don't want to under do it or over do it. A video of this would be great.
Good Idea. I would have used a Slip Joint costing way more. Yes some T Joints don't have the stops. Here in my Two Horse Town things are hard to find. Still using Primer ? LOL Wasting beer money Sir.
Blue PVC glue just doesn't work as well as primer and glue combo. It just doesn't hold up over time and it isn't as secure. I've been on quite a few jobs where the blue cement has let go. Code in a lot of jurisdictions require indication primer has been used (the reason that primer is tinted purple), and haven't changed to allow blue cement. You will never get as good of a weld with the blue. The primer softens the PVC, and creates a stronger weld. It is like paint/primer combo. It never hides as well as using a dedicated primer and then painting it with regular paint.
@@xenonram Perfect videos for you Andrew. :-) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1o4E2pdEv-s.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qHo4heljrSg.html
Hey great vid , I am doing a job at home trying to run water to my garage My main water line is at the back garage at the front only pipes I have close is my kitchen tap can I start from the kitchen water line or I got to run it from the main water pipe Thanks alot 👍🏽
@@electronicsNmore Yes, it needs good flushing before putting any nozzles on. (But the moment you work in a trench, that applies for other methods too)
I use a "saddle T". Prime and glue "saddle T" where you want it. After cement is dry, drill thru the blind hole and original pipe with a drill. This method eliminates the hole saw expense.
Which is the slow setting cement? I made one of those slip pipes from your other video. I went through three of them before I got into set the way I wanted. Funny now, blew a gasket then.
It's typically sold online or at a plumbing supply house. You'll have more time to position the fitting. If you don't remove enough of the stop from my other video, you'll have a very hard time sliding the coupling. I suggest sanding the inside of the coupling with 220 grit abrasive paper after removing the stop, before installing. Thanks for watching! Please share.
@@electronicsNmore My wife and i saw the video, and we are so envious of the northern climates with their soft soil. We here in Texas, have to contend with hard rock clay just beneath the surface to dig into!
By “least amount of digging” he’s saying you don’t have to dig back along the pipe 3-4 feet in each direction like you normally would when splicing a line without special fittings (telescoping, slip connects, etc). Normally you would just dig the pipe way back, cut an exact chunk out of the middle and lift up on both sides to force the fitting in. You have to dig a lot because you need plenty of play to make it work. You usually also end up having to dig under the pipe after it’s spliced because the sand/soil has gotten under the pipe when lifting.
I can purchase a HOMEWORKS slip repair coupling with 1/2" threaded outlet that looks like a tee from either Lowes or Home Depot for around $12. They are rated at 150 PSI maximum pressure. I don't believe average home owners PVC will even be be working at half that. I would cut the pipe like you show, apply some soap on each pipe and slip it on. No glue or cleaners required. Just tighten each mainline end by hand. I have a machine shop with most every size hole saw available up to 6'" and they are not cheap. I know you can do what you show however some won't realize if they don't slip the modified coupling in place very fast it can weld in seconds and they are up the creek. Entertaining to watch and useful if the box store is closed.
@@electronicsNmore When Orchard went out of business I made a small fortune. I went to 7 stores in Florida and purchased heavy steel stock and entire sections of aluminum. One of the liquidators asked me if I was building an aluminum boat. I know I have at least 1/4 ton of steel squirreled away. Although Orchard may have been a tad higher in price, they had everything including metric. I wish the idiot CEO would have closed Lowes and kept Orchard. The only good thing I can say about Lowes is I have most of their 24V Kobalt tools and love them. Keep up your great videos.
Great videos. I just discovered your channel, and have learned a lot about pvc repairs. If you can, please let me know which brand and type is slow setting. Thanks.
Nothing went wrong you can see the pipes are exactly the same nothing's been changed. When I leaned in I ended up having to lean in further to get the job done. My shoulder blocked everything.
Can't you buy a special PVC slip tee that doesn't have the internal steps? Seems I've seen them and know they exist for straight couplers. I once bought such a slip tee for 1/2" copper tubing.
PVC cutters are terrible in my opinion. They have a habit of slightly flaring the pipe as you cut it, or they break older pipes. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!
A PVC cutter is a scissors like device similar to a limb pruner. It allows you to cut PVC pipe as if you were cutting a tree limb. It's available at Home Depot for under $10. Here's me making fun of everyone else on here for saying that the one minute with the hole saw is too much work, but I'm here to tell you that 5 seconds with a PVC cutter makes 60 seconds with a hacksaw seem like an eternity. As the video author points out, a PVC cutter may not be perfect, but in the many instances where it can be used it's wonderful and I love it. I have always hated a hacksaw.
You said with a lot of practice. I've done this 4 times and the cement hardens so fast I cant complete it because the fitting won't slide before the cement sets. Also your video skips right at the plae where I'd like to see you slide the fitting over both pipe ends to the mark on the right.
Clearly I did it, because you saw me apply the pvc cement, and the exact same pipe was there after the connection was made. When I leaned into the hole to slide it into position, I blocked the camera with my shoulder, so I edited that out. You must work FAST, and keep the fitting in motion.
@@electronicsNmoreok I'll take your word for it, but it really does seem odd that your video skips the critical technique you are trying to teach us, and even more odd that you would edit that out, even if your shoulder did block the shot.
I just ordered a 1-5/8" for that. They have 1-11/16" too, but I think it would be a hair too big. You may have to bend a couple teeth out on the 1-5/8" to make it work.
Of course you can, that's essentially what he is doing here. He has converted a regular TEE to a slip coupling. The problem with your suggestion is 1: those slip couplings are expensive 2: they will or at least may be hard to find, and 3; you won't tend to have them handy when you need them.
Here's a pro tip, dig 2 more feet to either side in order for you to get a bit more leverage. Then glue your tee onto the pipe with less leverage, then use the leverage to pull both pipes up until the pipe goes into the fitting. Easy does it. Takes way less time, it's a better repair, and it's less expensive.
Thanks for that tip, it doesn't seem possible to me so I would not have known to try what you suggest, so your comment was valuable to me. So even though I like your tip, I disagree with your summary. Digging two extra feet is not "way less time" then grinding out the stops, and I don't see how your repair would be any "better" and especially "less expensive" than that shown.
@@TheLarryBrown less expensive because you don't have to buy drill bits to alter the fittings. Less time because you're already digging just dig a little more. And it's a better repair because the compression of using leverage will hold the T's in place rather than depending on the solvent weld to cure which takes a proper 25mins. The stops allow you to pressurize the fitting sooner.
@@TheLarryBrown In the event where you have to replace a broken T for a pipe 1" and below you the fittings needed would be 2 couplings a new T and a bell end about 6" long. Sometimes you can't dig more and the bell end is basically a long coupling you can turn into a slipfix.
Yep. It's a case of a video that assumes you already know what he's teaching, isn't that annoying. It's because he is making a "slip" connector out of the TEE. That allows him to slip the TEE deep onto the right pipe, deep enough so that the left end of the TEE will clear the left pipe and therefore align with the left pipe, and then he can slip the TEE back to the left and over the left pipe. Look up other videos on using slip connections to learn more.
What an odd question. You should direct your question at the chemist PhDs that invented PVC glue. Talk about over thinking...dude, the can of primer costs $5 and takes literally three seconds to wipe on....just do it and move on with your life. Otherwise, put your resume in to the PVC companies and tell them you are smarter then 6 decades of PhDs.
Having a spray bottle of water gets the pipe clean in a hurry. I would have slobbered glue on the pipe and and the fitting and made a mess. I like to put a rag under the area to keep dirt off the applicator if I slip. An inspection mirror really helps to make sure there is primer, and glue all the way around.
Can you do a pressure test video on older PVC pipe, like one that has been in service for 10 years? Also, in different temperature environments, like one that was just in a zero degrees freezer for a few days? How brand new PVC at 70 or 80 degrees stands up to pressure is impressive, but how about when it gets very cold, very hot or old.
