In this video we will electropolish the diecast metal of 2 cars as a test before we start using this method on Redline Cars. If you wish to see how this works watch this video... • How to electropolish a...
I'm restoring old mechanical calculating machines, and I learned quite a bit from your videos, as I was new, for instance using paint stripper or polishing clear plastics, just wanted to thank you real fast. AWESOME beginner tutorials! - For advanced hobbyists too, of course, just wanted to say that you can explain so everybody understands it, even not enlish-motherlanguage guys like me :)
I finally got a gallon of the acid. I must say its amazing how well that works on all different metals. I'm experimenting with this process on all kinds of projects. Thank you for sharing.
After watching a few of your fascinating videos I arrived here and I get it now. It's an electrolytic bath, my Dad used this technique for archaeological finds. This was metal from the Roman period and the levels of corrosion were such that items would need to be in overnight.
you always put out a great video brother...love the how to videos for I continue to learn something new each time...you are certainly one I look up to and consider a master in the craft...keep up the great work...we all appreciate what you do...god bless...
2:53 at the risk of being seen as a nitpicker: The bubbles are probably hydrogen, not air. If done within reason, the concentration is probably never going to get high enough to cause a risk, but people might still not want to drop in a piece of metal over night "to see what happens" (in addition to the safety advice you've already mentioned in the video). That said: Amazing video!
Great tip. I know you hinted at this idea but I think you should do a side by side comparison of two identical cars (probably brand new cars) where you do this process on one and polish the other. Then paint the two cars exactly the same at the same exact time and see what the difference is between the two. I always enjoy your videos. Thanks.
my brother had a tub of hot wheels that i somehow inherited when moved to Japan. most have been pretty beaten up. i want to display them and your vids are a great help. (yes girls play with cars) thanks
This is one of the best videos you have made.... and as of yet.... I like all of your videos.... thank you for the hard work ... looking forward to the next video!
Hobby Pros mix up a bucket of baking soda and water in a five gallon pail to plunge hands or dilute anything knocked over, splattered or spilled. It instantly neutralizes the acid and is more effective than water. Let everyone that comes around know about the pail.
75% phosphoric and 6 amps seems like using a sledgehammer to crack a peanut. I have been cleaning corroded hotwheels for years by soaking them in acetic acid - commonly known as vinegar ($2/48/gal @ walmart). I just tried your electro method using vinegar, an old 500 milliamps phone charger and an unwanted casting on the negative side and got the same results although it took a couple of minutes instead of a couple of seconds, but It was also safer and cheaper.
using vinegar in electrochemical u deposit zinc but when only vinegar u corroded/polished or why not exchange polarity in electrolysis, anyway thanks u give me a new idea
Nice! I was wondering about using electrolysis on Hot Wheels. I also have another hobby of metal detecting and use this and a tumbler to clean metal finds. I don't use this on all coins because this takes away from its value sometimes. In this case it's brilliant! Excellent work as always!
Thanks a lot for posting! I'm into metal detecting and was a bit intimidated by the process in other videos but really need to step up & learn better cleaning methods. Yours made it look much less daunting...Thanks Again!
You fucked do not follow this weirdo advice his battery shit duck it why,I don't want to know, you don't wanna to know , neighbors don't wanna to know,I don't wanna to know
Very nice. I read up on this. Turns out there is a sweet spot in the current density where max polishing occurs. Too little current and nothing happens, too much and you get bubbles. Somewhere in the middle a fine insulating layer forms - this is the "residue". Anything that sticks through the layer is etched flat "polished". So the layer is very important and in my experiments I get best results when I do NOT agitate. Just keep the current down so that bubbles don't occur.
I use PhAcid without the electricity. I find it does a good enough job for 1/75 scale models and gives them a nice key to take paint. If you find that the paint isn't taking to the metal's surface because it's too shiny, some PhAcid will knock off a bit of that shine and give some grip in the metal.
Thanks for this great video! What settings did you use on your battery charger? Also, have you ever tried to use vinegar to clean the metal? How did that work out?
05:47 The Mercedes looks absolutely RAD in bare metal, it's one of my all time favourite cars. And: Yes, I shed a tear or two in the scene in "The Witches of Eastwick" where they crash - or at least devilishly abuse one from the same timeframe / Mercedes model line (I know I know, it's not the same model, but roughly the same lines - WHAT. A. BEAUTY. )
I wonder if this would be of any benefit to some of the Airsoft gun parts I mess with. Gearbox shells especially. They are usually made from a mystery zinc/mag/alu blend... experimentation required!
very interesting, the merc you show at the end has it's A pillars missing from the front of the roof, could you comment or show how you would fix that.
Have you ever tried washing soda solution as an electrolyte? Its readily available and not as hazardous...by the way, love your videos, I've learned a lot and just picked up restoring hot wheels and matchbox cars as a hobby...the fun is in the hunt!
I wanted to try something like this on some antique copper cups and some other old metal items. My question is should you clear coat the item after this process to prevent further oxidation? Not worried about the food safe side of it since I wouldn't paint the inside of the cup and by what I've researched on paints, I can find some that are totally food safe once completely cured. But, like I said, I wouldn't paint the inside of the cup. I just want these things to return to their original copper finish and stay that way. Thank you for any advice.
I've just stumbled upon your channel buddy. question what is the best way to remove the chassis from the shell ? I'll watch your vids buddy. brilliant.
@baremetalHW Hi, thanks for your videos and sharing. You mentioned about how the paint job will turn out later on both cars, did you finally did it on any video , so I can check? Regards.
so now you've shown the difference between the two processes, would it be unfeasible to show how a compounded utilization of the two techniques could be benificial. I've an idea in mind that useing the acid wash to get to the base shine woudl make an easier time with the fine pollish wheel from the other video.
I like the finish on the King George V 1920 penny, UK. Is that a silver dollar or half or quarter? Excellent explanation and safety guide. Lovely finish on the cars. Remember the safety glasses too. Sorry, maybe that one's a given. Thumbs up!
I can't wait to try this method myself... I was also going to try something like TARN-X and I wonder have you ever tried that and do you know if it works or not?
Thank you for this. I'm sure there would be all sorts of applications where this could be used in restoration projects where mechanical abrasion would be harmful and destroy the life history that you have preserved here. Kind regards . . . Andy
What would happen if you dont wash the acid off right away? Would it start to eat away at the metal? It would be interesting to see how much it will eat up the car
Thanks a lot!!!! I found this tutorial simply amazing. One question: In my country I can only find the Phosphoric acid 85%, does it work as well as the 75%? thanks for this amazing video! subscribed!! Regards, Mauricio.
What do you do with the acid after use? Pour it back in the original bottle? Keep it in the glass jar? Dump it down the sink? Good video, and great, fast results. Thank you!
It's a cool process but personally I can't help but use a file and sandpaper to clean up the rough casting. Window edges, mold seams all the surface pitting....I just prefer to sharpen up the entire casting. I know it's not as original anymore but it seems silly to go so far and not take time to perfect the casting as much as possible.
does this technique works for stainless 316? what kind of psu do u need for running a small production? lets say 7000 small cars like these (but stainless)
Is it possible to just clamp the positive to a wire of the same metal, and secure it to the jar; that way, you'd just have to tie the body to a string?
wow...simply amazing. I was wondering if you had any tips or ideas of how to get the hot wheels chrome dipped? I do realize it is probably a bit more expensive but was wondering if you knew any kits that might work.
not any that don't use cyanide... best thing to do is ship them off to a plaiting company and let them do it.. I sent some cars a couple years ago to get copper plated... the company is called Hopwood Globe... they did a great job... but they used chemicals you would not want to be in the same room with... the other option is a deposition process... that process cost many thousands to get into...
I seem to remember it being rather cheap.. but can't remember the exact price.. I don't want to guess and be wrong.. they are super cool to talk to... ask for Tommy if you call them... he did all mine.. if you do send them they have to be mirror polished... any pits or scratches become blaring issues if chromed..
I have done a few cars this way now, but have had some odd results too. I hade a base go almost like a black color. Post dip polishing has done very little to fix that. Can you give any idea what that is all about?
It's called phosphating and it's pretty much permanent, if you know about firearms it's basically what they call Parkerising. It's very durable and very hard to remove (that's why they use it on firearms). Sounds like you left it in the acid way too long.
Very cool, definitely seems to work wonders on those diecast cars. And thank you for the little safety notes in the video, as this method can prove hazardous. Though, I have to ask, do you think you could do a custom of an AMC Rebel? I've never seen anyone customize one of those. .o.
I'd like to use this method to remove some dust from some lifting plates/weights. But the clamp from my battery charger will of course not be able to allow me to grab the weight dip in and take it out. Any ideas on how I could do about doing this with heavier objects?