Good video thank you. In the way of rotary, I purchased a rotoboss and really like it. I learned an easy way to align it from this video. Thanks a bunch.
As far as the extra steps in order to clean up the edges. I use to have a Mansfield rotary and same issues occurred. They said that the issue was slack being created with the belt. Actually nothing you can do other than tighten the belt as much as you can. I kept getting same issue so i bought a PiBurn and never had the issue again. Hope this helps
good video. I have the same laser and my rotaries are too tall (even with the bed all the way down) what rotary do you have in there please so I can try and find one to buy. thanks.
It's a Cohesion 3D rotary but I don't recommend it. Instead I would recommend the low profile version of the Mansfield. There's a link in our buying guide: lasereverything.net/buyingguide
This rotary is from Cohesion 3D but lately I've been recommending the mansfield which is an amazing unit. I have a link to them on the buying guide on our website at lasereverything.net
Is this a regular process for the rotary (adjusting the switches) Was just wondering if you have to do this once or every time. If every time would you then reset the switches back after you are finished? Also on rotary what are the main differences (besides price of course) between the rotary you are using (Mansfield) vs the (PIBURN V4.0) trying to narrow down a rotary purchase but want one that has ability to make adjustments. I have been spoiled with the rotary I use at work (it's a monster, literally fits the whole bed (width wise) but has more adjustable options than what I am seeing compared to the 2 mentioned. Thank you
The switches needing to be flipped will depend on the motors being driven on your gantry vs the motor on the rotary. They may have different requirements, and another factor is some machines have a dedicated rotary driver (can just set that to the rotary and leave it), while others receive their power through the Y axis stepper. We have a video planned for comparing various rotaries coming up, stay tuned! :)
@@LaserEverything Thx again, will be looking forward to that video. I don't have my rotary yet (pre-ordered the Pi-Grip) so it will be awhile before I can start rotaring.
If your machine is enclosed and you have exhaust it's not really a problem. As usual, don't breathe stuff in, Clean the glasses when you're done. Nothin too serious going on.
Some people mess around with wrapping the glass in aluminum foil or spending money on various marking sprays but in reality you're trying to mark something with a fiber that it's just plain not designed for. A UV or CO2 is much much better suited for this task.
We did this on a 100w tube, so in theory, you'd have to double your power (would not suggest maxing out your power, just as a note), or cut your speed in half, as a starting point anyway. We have starter parameters and linked is a parameter converter on our website that you can convert for your wattage if that may help.
Hi, dear I have some questions. If I can assist me, It's about DAJA laser 7w. I basically don't know how to use it as the usb disk not working. Your cooperation is highly appreciated brother Can it be used without the USB
Hey Alex, Just got something recently engraved and it doesn't stand out as clear as it did the first day it was done. It's like the whitish/grey look is gone and now the engraving is only noticeable in certain lighting. Is there a way to restore that look?
What material? What kind of engraving process was done to it? Unfortunately if it's faded it probably wasn't engraved too well to begin with and there's likely not a lot to be done. :/
@@LaserEverything glass. Not sure about what engraving process it was. It had a frosted look and then it got a little damp and now it looks like the frosted look is gone. Could there be a fill to bring out its look again? It's still readable but not like it was the day we got it
Your best bet would probably be to join our discord or Facebook group and see if any of our members have a suggestion for you if you show a photo. Links are in the description.
Glass doesn't readily absorb the wavelength of a fiber laser, so to reliably mark glass, UV or Co2 would be better. If fiber is the only option, then you'd need an additional material to act as a catalyst on the glass, such as brilliance or something like that.
The pulsed laser of a CO2 galvo is not ideal for marking glass unfortunately. By nature the continuous wave of gantry machines is much more suited for marking glass.
Hey Alex...my 30 watt Raycus that`s coming from California has nit been shipped yet. I`m looking at Aliexpress and I can get a 30 watt Racyus JPT for $700 less from them. Have you ever bought from them or do you know someone that has? Let me know because if they dont ship it today I`m canceling and getting it somewhere else. Shipping is free from Aliexpress only catch is wont get it till November. lol. don`t think I can wait that long.
Joseph the one thing you have to consider is tariffs. You're going to be charged a 30% import tax when you buy the machine. I don't normally recommend buying from US Resellers but if budget is your primary concern then I may just stick with what you ordered. If you'd like to chat more about it and get opinions you can join us on discord here: discord.gg/DnJQ2yZf You can also watch my buying guide: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y7tknUioLwY.html and listen to this podcast episode about importing lasers: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g21l9B5-b1I.html
There are a lot of different theories about how to spread out the heat being applied to the glass. I find soap works best but other people like newspaper, tape and you'll see a whole bunch of other methods online as well. Comes down to preference.
Hey Alex.... So I'm digging into learning my new 50W OMTech CO2 laser and was watching this video... I noticed on your settings library you had a setting for "glass brilliance".... does brilliance actually work on glass as well???? I have that and I also have the cermark
The Mansfield I believe comes with the steps per rotation printed on the side of the unit. You'll want to make sure your stepper driver matches the steps per that the Mansfield calls for.
hello, why do I have everything empty in the Library? and you have different materials? what I need to do to be able to choose the material? thanks for help
The machines don't come with preloaded libraries. You have to build the library yourself. If you want to kickstart it you can download ours by signing up to support the channel over at masters.lasereverything.net/
What would you recommend as a basic laser machine that isn't going to cost more than $2K -3K and isn't going to be over complicated? I need it for engraving wine bottles?
For that budget one of the OMTech lasers would work but they're not exactly turn key. Since they're so expensive they require some TLC to get up and running the way you would expect it to. Out of the box they're kind of shitty. You can save money or save time but not really both in this industry.
Great video! As far as why your images are compressed on the edges I had that problem also. Try starting the project from "current location" and selecting the bottom right quadrant. The reason is that if you start from the top right it will cause the rotary to move in one direction to get to the start position and then it switches directions quickly which messes up the beginning edge. If you start bottom right then it continues to go the same direction when the laser actually starts firing. I hope that makes sense. If not then keep using the bars because that work around seems to work ;)
Hey Kyle, awesome tip, but doesn't that make it a big pain in the but to center with things like existing logos when doing Yeti's and such? How do you tackle that problem?
@@LaserEverything I build a square that is the height of the circumference and the width of how far I want to engrave. Then I space everything in that square then turn off the output on the square . hope that makes sense
Its a 2" lens but the lens does not sit at the bottom of the nozzle, it sits up inside the tube, thus the extra distance. The stick is only made to be the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the material.