Learn to Laser Everything™ with new Laser Engraving videos every week! I cover laser parameters, settings, techniques and more for CO2, Fiber, Diode and UV Lasers! We believe in free and open maker resources. Check out some of ours below:
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Congratulations on the video, very detailed. I tried downloading the gradient test but it results in an inactive domain. Is there any other way to get it?
Hey Kyle, I recently watched a video on the rotary chuck, and I have some questions for you. The video was super helpful, but I was wondering if you had any tips if your laser marker does not have a rotary port? I am using EZCAD2. I am currently controlling my rotary chuck with an arduino, but I want EZCAD to control it and the laser at the same time. Thanks for your helpful videos! If there is another place I should seek advice please let me know!
Yeah, arrays are great, I still prefer to prepare my vector curves on other software like Rhino as the manipulation of them seems easier snaps work a little better and is a little more intuitive than lightburn...
You have the best content on youtube about lasers, can you tell me please is it worth to buy laserpecker4 or better to buy directly from Chinese factors ? Thank you
Hi. Our school has 2 Mira 9 that are giving us some problems. One is not cutting showing the message of "water problem" and the autofocus stick hits the edges when doing the frame, the other is creating high condensation inside the cover door. Please help us find the solution to these issues. Thank you.
You may struggle with some of the brightest colors but for the most part they should be perfectly usable. Just remember diode lasers have a much smaller dot size than the average laser so you'll need a high line interval to avoid scan lines in your results.
Should do OK with the black galaxy. I haven't tested them all on every laser there's hundreds of romark styles so I don't wanna commit to an answer but I would be surprised if you ran into any major issues. Best thing do is order some 16th in hobby for a few sheets you're interested in and try it out.
Glad you enjoyed! The settings change a few times,depending on which step of the process we go through. We show the settings each step and change, we only spend a few moments on discussing each since they are quick to go through though
Thank you very much for the video. I am looking to get a MOPA fiber laser and I'm finding your videos invaluable. Thank you. Question: have you ever done a customer survey or have information about the various vendors and post-sale support? Which companies continue to provide support versus ones that never reach out once the sale is complete?
@LaserEverything Excellent. 🙂 Do you have a rough idea of when the project will be complete? I'll likely wait until it's complete, although I am leaning towards Hao Tian. Thank you again.
I do not understand how you get this done? When I mark with rotary , center dot is placed originally in 1st place. ( Center of marking area ) , and I do not have that tiny line after F1 in rotary mark plugin.. just red dot
Hey buddy, i am looking for a laser engraver for my fashion jewellery business, i wanna engrave on alloy, stainless steel, brass amd silver , is DAJA DJ6 a good choice?
No, that looks to be a diode laser which isn't going to engrave metals. It might mark the surface of stainless really slowly, but wont really engrave. You'll want an actual fiber laser.
Is it possible for u to do a tutorial series on the following? I am having a very hard time finding video tutorials on how to design layouts for laser cutting. I dont mean the artistic kind like this video, I mean the technical kind. For instance. I bought a Puzzle box that comes in laser cut sheets that you punch the pieces out and then assemble. This particular one used zero glue and fit together with tabs and slots, many tabs designed with spring loaded connectors cut right in the wood. The box has over 500 pieces including gears, lever, latches used to make moveable mechanisms that you need to puzzle out in order to unlock and then open the box. Its called the Enigma Chest made by Woodtrick if u want to look it up. This think fascinated the heck out of me and I want to make my own version as family gifts. However the design (which I am doing in Freecad due to the tolerances required) requires techniques you don't normally need in just whipping out a logo for engraving, lol. For instance 'kerf' is a big thing since you have to take that into account in sizing your design. In other words you want a piece to be a certain width down to .1 mm but u cant set it that width in the cad program and get it when u cut it on the laser, the Kerf will make it smaller than u need and it wont fit anymore. is there a program or technique for designing something with size you want and then convert the paths to take kerf into account? And another issue is 'how to design springs and latches'. a spring is just where u cut an L shaped void in an edge leaving the finger hanging in space, that finger will flex when u press it with another part. properly designed it allows a tab to compress when pressed into a slot, yet spring open again once it is through the hole, and if you design a hook on the end of the 'finger' it will lock the tab in place. It sis these kind of things I am talking about, is it possible (or do u know of anyone who has) to make tutorials on such things. In general how to accomplish all this when designing wood cutting to make mechanisms as opposed to engraving?
One cool thing about Vector programs (You pro guys can cover your ears now) is that you can resize the objects to be as small as u want without messing them up. think about it (tic tok tic tok, lol). Theoretically no matter if u had a million engineering vector drawings. u only need one page to hold them all/ u could open a file and see nothing but a page full of very small 'dots', so dense the page is black with them. but if u zoom in you could see each pixel holds a drawing of a mechanism with 1000 parts in it. Now the file size would be so huge n entire hard drive might not hold it, lol, but its possible. So make the elements of your drawing, and like here save the original object to a small area of the page and use a duplicate to apply effects to, this way you can always go back and edit it, OR see where you came from
What's your concern? I'd say it would be acceptable for running in my house with young children (noise wise). Wouldn't be worried about running it in our shop even when we had quieter office neighbors. I'd liken it to the level of a large industrial metal box fan.
@@LaserEverything yes, quiet office neighbors is exactly my worry lol. I currently work with a desktop laser which is pretty quiet, but looking to upgrade. Haven’t seen the Mira 9 in real life, so I can’t really judge how loud (or quiet) it will be and if it will piss off the neighbors
@vanderree our first rental shop was across from a therapist and next to an insurance agent's office, they never complained about noise from the machines. I doubt they'd even hear this machine enough to notice, and if it bothers them it's nothing a white noise machine wouldn't take care of.
Congratulations on the always interesting and helpful videos. Thanks to you and your videos I have always been interested in fiber laser, and I have been following you for years. Now I have finally decided to purchase my first fiber laser, a 100W JPT MOPA, which I am waiting for to arrive. In the meantime I look at as many tutorials as I can( I am seeing your LightBurn for Galvo Crash Course guide). Regarding lenses, I have seen that some sellers offer inexpensive lenses (about 60€) with K9 material, if you choose Quartz lens instead, the price will quintuple. What is the difference between the two materials? Given the cost, Quartz ones should be better, but are they really worth 5 times the expense? I thank everyone who can give me an answer
Thanks for the kind compliment - glad you've been watching for so long! :) If you're running a 100w system you HAVE to use quartz lenses. The impurities in regular silica lenses will cause damage to the lens over time when exposed to the high power fiber laser. Quartz is absolutely the best option for you. We recommend them for anyone running over 60w. For more information head to lasereverything.net and check out the F-Theta lens section of the buying guide for trusted suppliers with good prices and explanations - hope that helps!
@@LaserEverything Thank you for the well done explanation and the speed in answering me. I was googling for an answer but couldn't find it. You saved me time, and money because I easily would have chosen the eonomic version, not understanding the difference
@@marcoc.1646 Of course, happy to help. Join us on the Discord server or Facebook Group to keep in touch as you go ^^ We have many more volunteers and it's a lot easier to get questions answered there.
yes you can! You just need to make sure that your line distance is nice and tight because you have a much smaller dot size compared to when you use a co2 laser. But definitely possible with some practice and getting the settings down for your machine.
Also I don’t think you mentioned it but tri layer acrylics are awesome. If you don’t have a sublimation printer the tri layer looks great! Especially for school colors.
Sounds like this isn't the video for you! We have plenty of content about large/bulk order and corporate jobs, but people consistently ask for smaller job content as well.
So I chose items that you can sell a couple hundred at a time with a profit of 10-15 per item. When multiple schools or organizations buy these that adds up pretty quickly. Low overhead, not having to hold overstock, and 3x the cost in profit per item x hundreds of items has been pretty profitable for me at my shop. What did you have in mind that you would we could make a video about for people? What lasers do you have so I can help you make more?
Hey Alex, Been watching your videos and love the detail for novice users. This video I like especially with the annealing feature. I am wanting to cut titanium 2mm plate and am looking at a 50w fibre laser machine from china. Is it possible with a 50w and what specs would you need to help answer my question. Cheers
Something as thick as 2mm, you may want to look into a dedicated cutter instead of a galvo. Galvo being used to cut quite thin material is less of a big deal, but as you go thicker, the issues with having an angled cut and no assist air among other things really start to be problematic. Galvo doesn't have the ability to cut straight down through a material like a cutter would, since you're utilizing a lens and projecting the cut from a center point. Just not ideal for that use case.
@@LaserEverything Hey Alex Thanks very much for your reply and advice. We are trying to get something that engraves and cut. Realistically we only have to go 1.6mm on the titanium,so not sure if this is more doable with the one machine . Also will be used in a very small jewellery workshop.the one we were looking at is an enclosed unit 48x42x85 .Will be doing more engraving than cutting. Can you suggest a machine that could do both.
