How to Enter Diagnostic Mode Yamaha FZ6 + Fault codes 

I have the stock handle bar and handle bar cover. Check out partsfish.com or megazip.net to find OEM parts at a reasonable price. Glad you like the video!

Same here.. were you able to fix it?

Thanks man really appreciate it! I haven't seen anybody change the light color before but that sounds cool! Ride safe

Can you change the color with the 2008?? 😂I'd fuck with that if so

Could be many things, but I would check your throttle position sensor, crank position sensor and examine for any loose wire connections. It could be an intermittent grounding issue or a wire coupler that isn’t fully seated together. Good luck!

@@Calvinm you are right mr.calvin i tested the TPS and had low ohms readings and checked i also went into diagnostics mode and sure enough the crank position sensor came up too and kickstand sensor. appreciate the feedback man you sir are a scholar and gentleman 🫡👍.

Hmm that is an odd one. The next things I would try would be to get a fuel pressure gauge inline with the feed line to see if you're building pressure. I would also check to see if you're triggering your injectors. In diagnostic mode you can trigger the injectors and hear them click as they pulse. If you don't hear a click then something isn't working to trigger the injectors. In the FZ6 it is diagnostic code number 36 and 37 that will actuate the injectors in pairs when you flip the kill switch on. In the past I have put my fingers on the injectors while triggering them to feel them pulse to check their function. Also check out the lean angle sensor, I know you said the bike rode fine after tipping it over but I would double check. The lean angle sensor basically prevents the engine from firing (or getting fuel pressure) in case of an accident/bike goes upside down. Fire hazard reasons. Since it starts on starting fluid, it has to be a problem with your fuel system. If you can't trigger the injectors through diagnostic mode I would get my hands on an oscilloscope to see if you can pick up a pulse on the injector wiring when cranking. A multimeter might work to pick up the pulse signal but it happens so fast a digit multimeter might not display the value (or accurately). That's a tough one, good luck! You can DM @freeheadgasket on instagram if you have any other ideas.

Personally I think these bikes are a great place to start learning to work on a machine. If you find out the trouble code your bike is showing we would know more about what needs changing. Good luck!

@@Calvinm Thanks Kelvin , I have started to investigate more into the bike , the engine light seems to have gone , I have had battery out and gave a charge up now checking to see with a multimeter if it holds charge. will keep you updated regards Mark.

Hey, the crankshaft position sensor is on the rider’s right of the bike. It’s inside the lower side cover of the engine. There is a small cap you can remove to peek inside but to get the sensor out, the side cover has to come off. The side cover uses a gasket but you might get away with reusing it if you’re careful. The sensor plugs in below the throttle bodies. The sensor should read between 248-372 ohms at 20 degrees C. You can unplug the sensor and measure from the connector if you pop up the gas tank. Good luck! 👍

@@Calvinm thank you so much man! I'll see what I can figure out. Keep up the great work!

Yes, the bike is working in this video.

Hey there, I made another video on reading the check engine lights and understanding diagnostic mode a little better, I’ll link it below. When you get into diagnostic mode you want to scroll to diag #63. When at #63 it will show you what code numbers are currently an issue for the bike. You can find that code number in the service manual and have some ideas about what is wrong. Before that though, have you checked the battery has 12.6 volts? If the voltage is low it may still turn on the dash but not turn over. If the battery voltage is fine check that you are getting power to the starter or that an animal didn’t chew through the power cable leading to the starter. The starter will have two wires, one thick and one thin. The thick one is your power cable the thin one triggers the solenoid in the starter to do the cranking. Best of luck!

@@Calvinm I definitely appreciate all of the assistance and tips. And I will try your suggestion later today about going to diagnostic 63. I did check the voltage on my brand new battery that I installed and it is perfect. What's the best way to check if the starter is getting power? If the starter is bad would that trip a fault code? Also I didn't see the link for your in-depth video on fault codes. I looked at your other videos and couldn't find it also. If you could shoot me a link that would be incredible. Anyway thanks again.

@@fastfoxshark Sorry here's the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JTKfZhTedIw.html&ab_channel=CalvinMC A bad starter would probably not throw a code. You would need a multi-meter to see if 12 volts is making its way to the starter when the starter button is pressed

@@Calvinm thanks a million. I have a multimeter and definitely will try that a shot. If I understand you correctly I hold a multimeter up to the starter wire positive lead of course and see if I'm getting power? Thanks for the link.

Ya, place the positive multimeter lead on the power cable on the starter and the negative lead of the multimeter on an exposed area of the frame or engine (basically a ground/earth point)

Glad the video helped! I'll see what I can dig up for code 46, good luck though!

Calvin MC Gave it another go, and now I’m getting error code 12. Some sort of electrical issue, I’ll for sure be digging into it.

@@SuperRocketManV any update for the code 12? I'm getting the same code!

No worries, I've done the same thing. It won't mess with the bike at all. Your fuel pump runs all the time when the bike is on and you're riding it, you just don't hear it wizzing away.

@@Calvinm thats great, thanks !!

I don’t think so. I think it would only throw the code if the sensor has gone bad.

@@Calvinm how many km would it take to cause wear in the timing chain?

@@Calvinm I had this very loud sound from the right side of the bike a few days ago and the error 12 popped up, so I’m guessing the timing chain jumped a tooth or one of the guides broke

@@Calvinm also, if the timing is off would there be a possibility that the piston hit the valves?

@@余羿辰 So generally, timing chains don't wear out or stretch to the point that they need replacing. It's very unlikely the chain is worn to the point that it needs replacing. Some FZ6 owners have gone over 200,000 km's without needed a new timing chain. the loud sound could have been you timing chain tensioner failing. Some people report having that problem and it often results in a ticking sound from the right side of the bike. the timing chain tensioner is tucked behind the frame on the right side of the cylinder head. If the timing chain skips a tooth it's possible it could cause contact between a valve and piston. You would find out if that has happened by doing a compression or leak down test. It might be worth taking off the side cover that covers the crank position sensor to see if the sensor head is clean and free or any particulate. Anything like a piece of metal on the sensor head could cause a faulty reading and throw a code. Best of luck!

Hey, so to erase codes you have two options. You can disconnect the battery and touch the wire harness side positive and negative leads together to drain the current from the system. OR go into diagnostic mode and scroll to number 62 and then flip your red "on/off" switch to "on" then back to "off". Doing this through the diagnostic menu will erase the history of codes. Best of luck!

Could be an air pressure sensor issues. Does it throw a code?

@@Calvinm fixed the fz6 back in the day 👍