Ridiculously simple and yet so ingenious. I wouldn't have thought of such simple tricks. You remind me of my design teacher who took such interesting photos that I couldn't get enough of looking at them. Thank you dear Martin for opening up to show us so many things. I look forward to the following simple and effective tricks. Bless...
I love how much I laugh while watching your videos! 😂 So much valuable information mixed with sarcastic humor. I absolutely love your content. Thanks for sharing!
I discovered your channel a few days ago and just finished watching ALL the videos in the channel. I have learned so much. Thanks you very much for the amazing content. I have recommended your channel to all my photographer friends. Hope to see new videos soon. And thanks you again.
Yes it is, and now afterwards I wish I used the more simple version with just the clean shadows... but hey, what can you do 🤣 Buy the way, I had to look that word up, in Swedish it's: överdådigt... I can live with that 😃
I discussed on that stream with a subscriber about double shadows and also asked you a question about how to get the same light filling of the whole frame. You advised to move the light source away 4-5 meters (inverse square law). And on the example of this video I see that this works great. Thank you for this great lesson, you are fantastic teacher and inspirer.🙂👍
Think that double shadow effect you mention in the video comes out when photographer uses flash-unit with clear glass cover over flash-tube circle (or just open flash-tube) - lower and higher half-circles of the flash-tube give us that double shadow effect. While you have a solid shadow thanks to matt-white glass plate over the flash-tube in your Profoto unit - so it works as single light source. Also that is why for Multispot Profoto uses flash-tube of very un-usual shape.
@@botvidsson, many years ago I was on Profoto distributors meeting and their technical specialist explained the reason for that special shape of flash-tube inside MultiSpot in that way. Also the same reason is for Profoto HardBox light-blocker construction - flash-head like ProHead should be in vertical position, then the Hard Box goes on top of that ProHead (with clear glass cover or without it at all) and HardBox gives light go from only one opening from the side - and the light we get in this way is from the thinnest side of flash-tube instead of solid circle so the shades are very crisp. Same reason why shades from any on-camera speedlights are so hard-shaped is because flash-tubes inside on-camera speedlights are just very thin sticks and never circles. Anyway I hope that Profoto HQ will be happy to provide you with HardBox light blocker to play with if you ask them.
Yes I know the hard box very well and the clear glass flash head to get the sharpest shadow edge on the planet 😃 Unfortunately they are a bit pricy... maybe I will build my own 😃
Can you please specify which specific brand and type of key light you were using for this? And what other light source you had on the shot (was it just the light through the window)? And can this sunlight look be achieved without any light source other than the bright key light?
Awesome video! Just wondering if you have any opinion of the Godox MS300, I've never used a studio flash before and would like to get a budget one to start trying some of the things you've been teaching!
Excuse me , may i ask The flash don’t put any soft box right ? Is it only the bulb light ? And how distance far from flash to product ? Thank you so much ❤️ you so kind Great video
stumbled across your videos and love them. its so helpful how you show your process an thoughts. and you remind me of a photography professor at university, that i really like. :D i wondered if i can only do such cool product photos if i have flashes? i only have two solid light softboxes and i never really know what to do with them so i get cool photos. i wonder if i'm just bad at lightning and need to improove my skills or if flashes would really change the game for me. thank you for these videos, i really apreciate them! :)
Thanks! This particular shot you can do outside on a sunny day. Just wait until the sun goes down a bit. It will be exactly the same result. If you have soft boxes with LED light? You can do some cool stuff but flashes works much better.
@@botvidsson thanks for the answere:) i'll give it a try! i also thought so, but it's nice to hear another opinion from a different perspective since my teachers at university always preach to only buy new Equipment If you really know how to use what you already have and can say that you outgrew of it and it doesent fit your skills anymore. but then i know, that i should probably Invest in some fashes soon, when i experimented with my softboxes a little Bit more :) thanks, have a nice day!
Tack. Alltid superbra tips och snyggt resultat utan komplexa metoder. Kan jag använda en speedlight utan diffusor och få ett bra resultat? Eller kan man kanske ha den i softboxen utan diffusionsmaterial/endast första diffusionsduken? Vilket rekommenderar du?
@@botvidsson tack igen. Jag testade att ha den i en softbox utan diffusionsmaterial just för att ljuset ej skulle studsa runt 😀♥️. Blir så osäker på vad man kan göra med speed Lights vs strobe
@@botvidsson så tänker jag med dock så är många anti speedLights då de påstås vara för svaga och saknar modelleringslampa. Jag övar med dem tills det känns vettigt att investera i en Studio blixt eller 2. Tack igen för att du gör det så okomplext.
Martin skulle detta även funka med porträtt? Ljus rätt långt bort borde vara mjukt precis som vid solnedgång jämfört med tex ljus vid stark direkt sol. Eller skulle du rekommendera kontinuerligt ljus
Jag rekommenderar sällan kontinuerligt ljus men vid porträtt funkar det bättre än produkt-foto. Är inte riktigt med på hur du menar, liten ljuskälla, som i det här fallet, är ju så kallat hårt ljus (hard light), blir dramatiska/hårda skuggkanter på personen man fotar. Vill nog inte kalla det för mjukt. Direkt solljus mitt på dagen eller vid solnedgången ger ganska liknande effekt, skillnaden är väl färgtemperatur och att personen får ljuset mer rakt på ansiktet istället för uppifrån. Med mjukare menar du kanske lägre styrka? Det blir det ju vid solnedgång.
@@botvidsson förstår att man kanske ej får samma styrka och kontroll med kontinuerligt vid produktfoto. Gällande porträtt som du säger så kan det funka. Tänker då framför allt på hur man gör i filmer osv. Gällande solnedgång så är det som du säger hårt ljus men inte lika hårt som vid tex klockan 12 på dagen. Som porträttfotograf ser jag stor skillnad. Ljus rakt på ansiktet vid solnedgång är mkt mer smickrande vs ljus mitt på dagen vid stark sol. Skuggorna är mjukare etc.. Försöker förstå hur jag kan applicera det i en studio bara. Vad hade man inte gjort för att få vara din assistent nån gång...
@@botvidsson google translate : Very good, the only hesitation is that the reflection of the leaves is reversed, which is a bit conflicting with the usual visual habits.
@@vladokrstevski7200 How do you mean with reflection of the leaves is reversed? Do you mean the highlights I created at the end of the video? That is sun bounce back from something on the right side.
Tänker du på kamerastativ? Det är ett litet backup stativ från Manfrotto, vet inte namnet tyvärr, men inget märkvärdigt. Om du tänker på C-stands så är det Avenger, exakt vad de heter ser man i min Amazon shop i länken i beskrivningen under videon.