Thank you Cris. Some great reminders there, health warning wise. This took me back to the family workshop factory moldmaking bronze sculpture for the foundry in our 'golden years'. The fibre glass held the rubber molds together. That blower and furnace was like a plane jet engine. I remember thinking with the Deckel 3D pantographs that one day a computer would control the depths and x and y axis. Now look, cnc mills and 3D printers. Your Robocop is a great popular interest serving as segway into some educational skills here. Thanks for keeping it going as much as you have. Well deserved praise Cris, hope it inspires rather than just gushes. Warm regards and continued best wishes, Cape Town
Thanks Matt. I appreciate you sharing the history. Yeah fiberglass resin and matte are commonly used as a mothermold to keep the rubber molds to hold there shape when castings. I still use it for my mothermold shells on my silicone molds. Thanks for the comment!
You hit all the strong points. Don’t be afraid to use the mesh as well as that chopped mat can stab you lol you can also use what’s called kitty hair on top of the chopped mat to smooth it. Overall looks great bud I’m getting ready to do my war machine suit with this, so exciting (said no fiberglass fabricator ever lol) nice work my dude!
Hey thanks for sharing some tips Darkwing. You definitely won't regret fiberglassing your war machine suit it will make it much sturdier. I can't wait to see you finish it, it's going to be epic.
Random potentially useful idea: For stuff where you want detail, or areas you cant bulk out, used dryer sheets can be a decent substitute for fiberglass cloth. Its thin enough to mold into tighter areas, and is stronger than just resin. When thin, it is still somewhat flexable without bad cracking, but isnt as durable as the actual cloth. Hope it helps.
@ChrisBoshProps de nada. I figured it out for a cardboard witchking helmet. Cokeboxes for the general shapes, hot glued on the insides, and the glass on the outside. Came out surprisingly well considering it was my first attempt at using it, and one of my first at propmaking. Added bonus in this case, the texture isn't too far off wrought iron.
I enjoyed watching this! Very great work Chris. Your Robo suit is so good! One thing that came to mind, would this be something worth doing on a Haslab Proton Pack shell to give it some strength, at least in certain spots?
It definitely would work on the Haslab pack no issues, on whatever points you would need it. Keep in mind it will add some extra weight. Thanks for the comment!
Is that the same music in the background from kickboxer with JCVD if not its very close to it, great work, unfortunately I'm doing Eva foam for my first ever cosplay robocop hopefully get to the 3d printed level eventually
Hey Michael and yes its a Kickboxer remix song here on RU-vid. I was a huge JCVD fan in my youth. EVA foam is great man anything works to get your feet wet and have some fun. The mobility is so much better in those suits. Check out Heroes Workshop on RU-vid he has an incredible Robocop EVA suit on his channel that's worth checking out!
@@ChrisBoshProps I've been looking at his stuff mate really incredible suit, I loved JCVD when I was younger too, all the classics kickboxer, double impact awol loved them all
Hi Chris again great video can you tell me which fibre glass mat your using didn't quite hear from the vid what you said you used and a link to where you buy would be great if possible thank you again for uploading great content
No problem. I used 1.5oz Fiberglass strand mat here www.ebay.com/itm/222750936155. You might not need that much as I use it also to make proton pack shells but that is what I purchase and use. I hope that helps!
Hey, Chris. I've been looking through your videos, but didn't see anything regarding my question. Do you have any tips for sizing the helmet? With all the different parts it seems like a bit of a challenge to assure they all fit correctly. Having worn the helmet, what do you recommend in terms of extra room? Is it pretty forgiving or is it fitted snugly? The helmet you recommend is on sale by the way for anyone looking to grab the model. I am looking to start printing mine mostly for display, but it would be cool if it fit as well.
Hello sir, when it comes to scaling the helmet fortunately for me I didn't have to as everything fit just fine. It's a little snug around the diameter of my head but there is some gappage from the top dome to the top of my own head that I had to add some EVA foam so the helmet sits right. For scaling its really easy. I use Simplify3D for my slicer and when you import your file to print the software immediately scales it at 100%, I'm assuming the free software's like CURA do the same. To make it larger you just add extra percentage along the X,Y, and Z until it fits right, most software's keep the proportions by default. If the initial size of the file doesn't fit...up it to 105% or 110% until it fits. After that, if it fits properly then make sure the remaining chin guard pieces are scaled to the same percentage so everything fits right. I printed each piece including the dome whole and I didn't have to cut any pieces up FIY. Hope that helps a bit!
@@ChrisBoshProps Yes. That is very helpful. Thank you. I have a few more questions about details if you have a moment. I'm looking at some reference photos and as you mentioned in a video or two there are a few Socket screws on the back plate. Have you reached out to the creator of the helmet asking if it would be possible to model some holes in? I was considering adding some in ZBrush, but I can't really distribute them because it's a paid product. Also, with the six vents on the back. Do you feel these are accurate on the model? To my eye they are more rounded on the sides and top. Also, do you think these are solid like the model or pass through like actual vents? This is another modification I'm considering making, but I wanted to get your thoughts. Finally, the circle in the middle of the back plate looks like it might not be the same silver as the rest. In the reference photos (screen caps) I'm seeing what looks to be an almost brass color. On a side note. I wish some of these details were separate on the model. The ears, back plate circle, and even the OCP POLICE 001 would be great if they were separate so they could be resin printed. You seem to have been able to keep your details super crisp (especially the writing), but it might be nice to have them separate. It is something I can do in Zbrush, but do you think it is worth the effort, meaning... have you found any issues with them being integrated? Thanks! EDIT: Sigh... this always happens. I purchase some files that I think are super accurate and then with a 10 min search I realize they aren't. The back plate seems to have a lot of inaccuracies. So far it seems the following need work. - The vents are not the correct shape and seem to come out a bit far. - The bottom groove is too large - The two vertical ovals are too far away from the vents (this may be because the vents are too small horizontally) - There is a groove around the centre "disk" that doesn't seem to be on the screen used helmet. (trying to find better reference) - The centre "disk" should be larger and it is stepped on the inside - The centre groove should extend along the bottom - missing screw mounts (yes these can be drilled afterwards, but it should at least have reference holes) - The vents are spaced too far apart. The bottom of the top vent seems to align closer to the middle of the centre of the "disk" but it is way too high on the model.
@@crazylegsmurphy Hello again, I haven't reached out about anything concerning the helmet because I'm pretty happy with it. I didn't mind adding the socket caps on myself. The files aren't perfect but they are pretty close for being a replica model and pretty spot on looking once finished. Most of the details are there and close enough for me.
Does fiberglassing stop warpage from high heat days or if you want to 3D print something for inside of car. Leaving 3D prints in cars on hot days for just a few minutes can destroy a project.
It helps with the warping but your print can get soft and cause deformation and make the pla soft enough where your infill grid will start to show. If your leaving your prints for long periods in a car probably better to use Petg or ASA. For short periods in the sun PLA+ should be just fine.
@@ChrisBoshProps thanks. I was asking because I wanted to 3D print parts to scale for an Ecto 1 roof rack equipment. I guess all filaments are out to do this, even the carbon fiber huh? Any suggestions? Resin maybe for housings and small things.
