When you have deep and awkward gaps to fill it is difficult to do a good job with conventional fillers. Watch this short video to show you how to make the job easier.
Or cut a block of wood to fit the hole, stick it in with some no more nails adhesive then fill or plaster over to finish! This way you don't have to wait hours for the foam to set.
@@scrimperuk I have just filled a gaping hole where the extractor was and it took all of ten minutes. I am like you, got all sorts of bits and bobs saved in the shed for these kinds of jobs.
Great video - very clear. Thank you. I do have one question though. I have a similar sized hole to fill in my daughter's bedroom. However, the hole goes back about 12-15 inches into an old, disused chimney (a jackdaw had come down the chimney and the only way to get it out was to remove the vent and then make the hole a bit bigger!). Will your method work in such circumstances - does the foam just sit in the hole or does the foam in your video go back up against a 'back' to your hole? Hope this makes sense! Thank you.
Guys after cutting and sanding, paint some PVA glue to the service, makes life so much easier They don't mention it because they don't make glue I'm guessing
PolycellUK - I realise this is a how to guide aimed at selling your products but the foam is excessive! Far better things that could be used to bulk fill that hole. A block of wood, ply etc. and a little piece of plasterboard fastened or fixed with grab-adhesive would offer a better substrate for the filler and would be more secure. Advice people: never watch a "how to" video produced by a manufacturer, find a tradesman who makes videos and follow those.
Can you leave the tin after the first use. Or is it a crack open and use it up or throw away. Like a fool I got the biggest tin and its not that cheap really at £12 a go. Should have got the £7 can now. But im really glad polycell put these videos out great company. Thank you.
How about when the screw on applicator gets clogged after the first use? rendering the contents of the can useless after one use??? it just dries in the applicator nozzle blocking any more foam from getting through ??
Will this work to seal off an old no longer used floor HVAC vent that I cannot get into to use fiberboard cut pieces and caulk to seal off? There is no way I can get into the vent to clean it before applying this foam sealer. It is a ten inch by two inch rectangle than I cannot get my arm into down to the bottom of the 24 inch shaft bottom where the actual ductwork ties to the vent well.
I realize the chap's trying to sell some products here, but I don't see the need to spew more plastic into our environment-isn't there enough in it already? (It seems like he wastes as much of it as he uses, too, due to the expansion.) Personally, I use this simple method to fix these types of holes: 1. Cut a piece of drywall slightly smaller than the hole. 2. Cut two pieces of scrap 1/4" wood about 1/3 as wide as, and slightly taller than, the hole. 3. Spread some expanding glue on the wall's inside surface, about 1/2" all around the hole. (Gorilla Glue is good for this; before you apply it, use a wet paper towel to moisten the area to activate the glue.) 4. Insert one piece of wood through the hole and pull it back against the glued area so it covers the left 1/4 of the hole. Use two small spring clamps (the type you can get at the dollar store) to clamp it in place behind the top and bottom of the hole. Do the same on the right with the other piece of wood. 5. When the glue has dried, apply glue to the exposed parts of the wood (wetting them first if using GG), then press the drywall piece into place against them. 6. I now place a long piece of wood (e.g. a 2x4) against the fill piece to hold it while the glue dries. You may prefer using painter's tape, or some short drywall screws. 7. When that's dry and firm, fill the gaps with drywall filler or PolyFiller, let it dry, then sand and paint.
There is a large crack on the bedroom wall and i was wanting help in what product to use. I can't afford a plasterer. PLEASE advice me on what to use. THANK YOU
Awful. Simply awful. What I would do is prepare a piece of drywall a bit bigger than the hole, put grab adhesive all the way round it, insert the piece into the hole and pull it forward with a preattached piece of string so that it covers the hole. Now you're left with a gap thick enough to apply undercoat plaster and 2 coats of skim. But tbh I would just use polyfiller and sand.
fro0tyl0opy87 You have a solid wall (there is no plasterboard there if that's what you think it is). You cannot glue the edges & pull a bit of plasterboard into place then expect to fill over it with plaster. The plasterboard will fall back into the empty void the moment any pressure touches it. To fill a solid wall, you need to fill the empty hollow. You could use cement or even bung it full of plaster. However most people won't have the experience or will to go through all the hassle. Expanding foam is cheap & most of all - it's an easy quick fix that anybody can do. Once dry, it can be cut level with the wall & then skimmed over to make it level.
James McC To be honest with you, I don't know what the hell I was thinking of saying that because it's a solid wall so I don't know what made me think it was plasterboard he was filling! Yeah as you said, filling with plaster will work fine and is easy enough. Then finish with polyfilla and sand for a smooth finish.
I need to fill a hole about 4 inches x 1 inch where a double plug socket was moved up after being put in the wrong place. Naturally there are live wires behind the socket, is it still safe to use these liquid based products to fill the hole.
Switch off all your sockets at the mains before you do any work (if any doubt switch everything off) then make sure the wires in the old socket hole are properly connected red to red/ black to black/ plain copper to plain copper into a 30 amp connector block and use earth sleeve on the plain copper. then cover the connector block with some insulating tape. Now cut the bottom off an empty plastic milk bottle and shape it to just cover the wires. Now you can dampen the hole and start to apply filler from the edges first to hold the plastic in place then when the filler is dry you can apply more bit by bit until you get level. You can switch the electric back on as soon as the first filler is in place.
+Rebecca Pucci yes. if you want to block out mice stuff the hole with steel wool first, then fill it with any foam.wouldn't hurt to use caulk to secure it.
Mrs. Pucci unfortunately yes mice will chew through the foam but the plaster/puddy should keep them out if applied thick enough. What I recommend is putting dry wall mesh tape over the foam after its been sanded then apply the plaster.
Can anyone help me please? I'm using multi purpose polyfilla,covering some median large holes,it says to film in stages/layers I have the first layer dried,here's the question, Do I need to wet the polyfilla to add another layer? Or just as another layer dry onto the polyfilla?
So he knows how much it will expand ..but filled the entire hole with unexpanded materials ..Cleary he is extremely smart . He wasted more than 50% of the material..
Expensive and crap approach best to just fill it with undercoat Plaster and build it up then when roughly smooth leave about 5 mm to put on a layer of pva once dried then use finishing Plaster with trowel and make sure the finish is watery for a,smooth finish spray with water If still rough and smooth till it blends in with the rest if the wall.
Love the stream of comments - esp the one about expecting the porn site - filling deep and awkward gaps - haha!! HOWEVER ..... i have stone cottage wall. The curtain rod holding has ripped out and left a hole in the wall. If i just use polyfilla will it be strong enough to hold the curtain rod fitting again afterwards??? Serious answers please or i will end up ;putting this wretched foam in it!!! Thank you lovely people :)
Thomas Bishop How the hell can you replace the 'drywall' when there is no 'drywall' there to replace. It's a solid wall that's been hollowed out to fit in a socket.
