I love this video. To-the-point, great info and covers a lot of the important points, nice tips and tricks, less effort on intros and effects and just a classic "how to." 10/10
Thank you for the clear and concise video...I'm glad that I watched it before starting my seal coats on my 72" x 24" x 2" live edge Black Walnut top (making either a coffee table or a desk). I had taped one side first with Tuck Tape and was about to brush a seal coat one one side then wait and then start the 1st main epoxy pour. I realized after watching your video that with the small cracks/veins in the wood (some go all the way through) that I would not be able to get the seal coat completely through to the other side and that I would need to flip the board over to seal any parts that remain exposed. I will remove the Tuck Tape from one side, sand & clean, complete the seal coat on BOTH sides, sand & clean, re-tape one side with Tuck Tape, then do complete the main epoxy pour process. Long winded comment to say thank you for posting the video...much appreciated. I am a beginner and found this extremely helpful.
Black studios have great videos, but that does not mean i cant find other videos helpfull. I really do not understand your agenda arguing this with me. What do you gain from this, and what is your reason for going after me as a person? That is really low😉
Save $$ huge amounts by filling the big voids with clean,broken glass, I've done this many times,it sometimes cuts the amounts of epoxy used in half...think of all that extra cash possibly some faux windows for that no- smiles gray background! Maybe a paint some puffyclouds? Very serious and informative video, keep up the good work!
@@alanr9634 dont fill in too close to the top of the pour, i.e. were you know were youll be sanding, use it as filler,not as a replacement for the epoxy..
Thanks for this vid! I am going to try my heat gun next round. Not that I feel unsafe at all with a torch but last project left a burn stain in the clear so the margin for error is "clearly" there.
Fun to watch and a very nice outcome. It really is a beautiful piece of wood and you maintained its integrity with your careful application of the epoxy. Cheers, Dave
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I've been looking for a video that takes me through the whole process. You answered many of the questions I have. Especially about the seal coat. My test/learning piece piece is in the garage leaking like a sieve right now. :) Hopefully I do better on the actual table, and I'm sure I will thanks to this video. WELL DONE!
If you have a crack that extends to the edge of the slab, can you just tape the end in addition to the backer board, or is there some other solution to seal off the vertical part of the edge? Thanks. Good clear video appreciated.
Nice Job Looks great. I have done two live edge slab projects. My first was a bar top for my backyard pub. It was fun and turned out well. It was made to be half inside and half outside with a window I can raise with a pully set up to raise the window in nice weather. After two years the top on the outside portion of the bar started to get a crazed looking surface. Is there a way to fix this or a type of epoxy that can handle being exposed to the suns UV rays?
Great job and thanks for preparing and sharing this project. Quick question, i have a similar slab that has a void in the center. I was wondering why you didnt use bowtie(s). Any thoughts on that would be appreciated.
Great video - excellent info for a sofa table I'm about to tackle! One question though... some videos use a torch, you use a heat gun - and I like that better, but my heat gun has variable heat settings - what heat level do I use? At least a ballpark?
SMALLER CRACKS AND HOLES....Try shellac or varnish mixed with saw dust from the wood you are working on mixed in to a paste, you get a perfect match....AND YOU SAVE MONEY ON FILLER 😁
If they are very small cracks maybe an 1/8 inch or less I would use Star Bond super glue with excelerator, if they’re much bigger than that I would use epoxy as well.
Thanks so much for your video! I do resin beach pours on charcuterie boards but latey have had to fill some deep cracks and learned the hard way not to use my standard resin! I have a question - Which side was your backer board placed on - the top or the bottom?
Did you pour your second coat right away? Or did you wait a bit and then do it? And what would you use for a top coat? Would you varathane or use an actually top coat epoxy?
Thank you so much for this video. Q: If you are going to put a top coat (lacquer) on it, how high do you sand the epoxy to maximize adhesion and minimize any possible showing-through of scratches? Thanks again.
shouldnt pour twice, they form as seperate layers that dont attach well. you can literally peel them apart with your fingers. always mix more than you need. i had that issue with a section of bathroom floor. the microscopic gap layer drew moisture in and it all seperated. literally lifted it all up in one go using my hands. ime making some speakers out of some very old wood that has a huge crack down one plank, hopefully i get it fixed up as well as you managed there. i have to say the thought of expanding epoxy is a worry, i have some electeical grade that doesnt expand or contract at all, but thats expensive stuff. have you had any issues with it expanding and spreadig the crack further? or has it all been good?
Why fill from the small finished side where bubbles come up to the finished side? A better easier approach was to seal the smaller opening on the top and then flip board over and pour epoxy into the much larger opening on the bottom. Bubbles migrate up to the bottom/unfinished side of the wood.
@@markwisniewski8141 I prefer clear in darker or even medium tone. If you can darken the bottom of knot or crack, clear is better on lighter also. Keeping in mind clear shows bubbles far more than black. A tiny amount of black dye goes a long way. Lots of personal preference here.
Warm your shop before you mix your epoxy, you will also reduce humidity by running room heater and humidity control is vital to cure epoxy. Your technique of using a heat gun to warm the epoxy seems inexperienced.