Thanks for the tip! Replaced all our window casing with MDF painted white. I gave two coats of semigloss prior to install. Used 18 gauge Brad nailer. Filled in holes with spackle and gave a light sanding, then gave the casing a third coat. Looks great and easy.
I use 1 3/8'' pin nails on trim that small, I use them in closer intervals but it fills in in one application and it's not coming off the wall even if you bump it moving furniture. I also have used a little bit of white caulk on the trim before pin nailing and it grabs pretty good. I'm not a professional I DIY in my home. As a professional working in other peoples homes your method is the way to go.
Good stuff as always. When nailing trim and such. I put small piece of painters tape and nail thru it then dab my putty in the hole. Pull the tape and eliminating sanding. Maybe quick pass with sand paper if the putty is slightly proud. Extra step? Extra time?
Toupret wood filler light oak Redy Mixed using narrowJapan filling blade leaving nearly none of it around the filled area is my method if I have to fill second time sometimes then the Toupret Fine Surface.
Got to be the worst holes to fill, nail holes that have been done using a nail gun....its all about the filler and your finger. I use toupret ready mixed wood filler for this
quick paint brush question, who makes high quality 1” angle sash brush. And what type is best for cutting in on the edges of millwork, a soft, medium, or hard bristle? Thx
Hi Spencer, this is great and I’m about to try it on a bunch of trim! I had to do two coats with the bondo because I didn’t leave the putty proud of the surface. So if you only want to putty and sand and clean up once, leave it slightly proud and sand to flush. I scraped it too tight to minimize sanding and didn’t leave enough material to do the job. Lesson learned. Hey Spencer, I want to scrape and paint my exterior wood siding but sanding it to bare wood in the spots where the paint is strongly adhered would be a pain, but I’ll do it if it’s necessary for a good looking end product. I was wondering if you think the Bondo trick would work on the exterior to give the appearance of a continuous finished paint job. Check out how hideous it looks to paint over the chipped paint in this Lowes instructional video at 15:37. Just pause the video at that point and let me know if the bondo or some other product can be puttied over the texture and sanded smooth to create a nice continuous finish. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1_4uzIHBmic.html
I'm a professional painter over 10 yrs experience. I learned how to tape and clear caulk 5 years ago. I love Wooster ultra pro extra firm brushes and other Wooster brushes. Purdy is for homeowners they don't hold paint
Would you paint baseboard trim the same way? I’m having horrible roping with mine so I’m trying the Floetrol product you recommended in your other video. Would love to be able and roll it in then go over with a brush. One direction maybe be difficult in such long trim length spans. Thanks!!
I’m not sure what you’re talking about Brian but, if you’re talking about reversing the angle sash brush, please try it sometime you will be amazed at what the technique does
I wish you provided links to these products. Is the sanding item a "Finish Line Product" or 3M ? Getting conflicting information from your video and from your answers in the comments. What grade or # do I look for? This is taking a lot of time to search for, as someone like myself who is not knowledgeable about such things. Sad face :-(
Have you found the need for primer on top of the hole filler. I just did a batch with generic blue food coloring from Amazon. Sprayed Cabinet Coat via HVLP and it bled through--hard. CC says that it is designed not to need a primer on clean flat surfaces. Obviously, I prime the general surface with BIN anyway. Was just hoping not to need another coat over primer over 3M.
Excellent question and I appreciate your following my videos. My last video published shows yet one more filler, very similar to this one in this video. It is simply to show my viewers which product I use to fill in my trim; I love the Bondo glazing putty but people complain that they cannot gain access to that product and I get it at Sherwin-Williams but people cannot find it in the product I’m using in this video and the last one published yesterday, Sunday features dry dex., A product far more easy to find, and a product far more easy to use for do it yourselfers.
@@spencercolgan Thanks for the quick reply love your work. It is refreshing to see a someone really concerned about the finished product and striving for perfection instead of just settling for the best result in the least amount of time philosophy. I have used the drydex nail hole filler in the tube before I was going to pick up the bondo you had in earlier videos because I have a bad habit of missing spots sanding and the red color of the bondo would be helpful. It also seems to fill cleaner based on your video.
Love your videos..You remind me of me! Been painting 40 yrs. Have you tried light spackle(the stuff that weighs nothing) and how do you compare it with your stuff?
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Not many people understand how much times goes into it. The 3M High Strength filler is fantastic. Regrettably, it dries out really fast. I've opened some new ones that were half hardened. Fortunately, it's pretty easy to reconstitute. Just add a little distilled water and mix it up.
I wish I found this before I filled in holes of door trim with caulk, painted, and left ugly marks. Lesson learned!!!! BTW--- Can I fix or is it too late?
I always used window glazing. Wipe it in and give a soft rub, and it barely shrinks. In the olden days they used whiting and linseed oil which is pretty much the same thing ( I use boiled linseed though)
@@spencercolgan I use any old glazing/putty from Sherwin Williams, Home Dept etc. Its often gooey when new so just add a little corn starch and it turns nice. I used to do restoration crew work for Historic Hudson Valley in NY and we would make our own putty if aiming to be accurate (not always a must at house museums). thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-make-your-own-glazing-putty/
I use glazing putty. They used to use it to put in glass into window frames before caulking. It has a Plasticine type feel. Smooths in easy and can be painted right away.
